DIOR迪奧香水創意總監 Francis Kurkdjian
26歲Francis Kurkdjian為Jean Paul Gaultier設計出經典香水後一炮而紅,Armani、Burberry等品牌都欽點與他合作,他在2009年創立自己的香水品牌:Maison Francis Kurkdjian。現在,Kurkdjian為迪奧的香水創意總監,負責該品牌所有香水系列。
「香味能夠建構出回憶,在香味的世界裡,你可以成為任何你想成為的模樣,在內心深處我很清楚知道這是我的使命。」
Source: https://reurl.cc/K3axyR
調香師負責進行化學測試,以協助對用於開發新化妝品(例如洗髮精、肥皂、乳霜、其他盥洗用品和香水)的材料進行定性和定量分析。調香師還負責開發或改進生產流程,以確保其高效並符合環境和品質控制標準和法規。
評估芳香化學品的氣味
調整需改進樣品的配方
評估香水的具體特徵,例如氣味、濃鬱度、和諧度、強度和持久性
優秀的嗅覺
化學和化妝品科學的健康知識
能夠透過反覆試驗來工作
優秀的實驗室技能
What is a Perfumer ?
Perfumers are responsible for conducting chemical testing in order to assist in the qualitative and quantitative analysis of materials used to develop new cosmetic products, such as shampoos, soaps, creams, other toiletries and perfumes. Perfumers are also responsible for developing or improving production processes in order to ensure they are efficient and conform to environmental and quality control standards and regulations.
Evaluate odours of aromatic chemicals
Adjust formulas of samples needing improvement
Evaluate fragrances for specific characteristics, such as odor, body, harmony, strength, and permanence
A ‘good nose’
Healthy knowledge of chemistry and cosmetic science
Able to work through trial and error
Excellent laboratory skills
Source : https://www.academicinvest.com/science-careers/chemistry-careers/how-to-become-a-perfumer
自主學習的方向:化學、化工、了解香水、培養嗅覺
Self-Directed Learning: Chemical、 Chemical industry、Learn about fragrances、Develop your sense of smell
專門的香水學校能提供最好的調香師培訓。但是香水學校很少,也因為它們提供全面和專業的課程,學費所費不貲。 有些大學為有興趣從事香水行業的學生提供化妝品科學碩士學位和博士學位。具有設計、化學或製藥背景的人也可以從事與產品配方、色彩創作或包裝設計和工程相關的職業。
The best training is provided by perfumery schools. There are very few perfumery schools and it is expensive to study at these institutions because they provide comprehensive and specialized courses. Some universities offer a Master’s degree and a doctorate in cosmetic science for students interested in a career in the world of perfume. Those of you with design, chemistry, or pharmaceutical backgrounds can also pursue careers related to product formulation, color creation, or packaging design & engineering.
Source : https://www.bonparfumeur.com/blogs/journal/perfumery-schools#03