Oil / Filters

How much oil?

US MEASUREMENTS

Stock oil filter installed: 3.17 qts if no filter change - 3.3 qts if filter changed. Fill until halfway up the site glass. Anything over that will can get sucked through the engine vent into the air box.

ORK (Oil Relocation Kit) installed: slightly more, about 3.3 qts if no filter change - 3.5 qts if filter changed. Again follow the "halfway uo site glass rule!

Note: in all cases, fill to 3 qts, warm bike, shut it off, let oil drain back, check and top off to the center of the sight glass level indicators - if you overfill, you will get lots of oil up in the air box, dog bowl, and maybe on the engine top - over-fill is not good.

Be careful - do not lose the O-ring marked as number 6 below - easy to do, so be careful!

What oil to use?

Most any 10W40 through 20W50 oil will do as long as it does not contain friction modifiers. All oil containers will have an API Oil Service Rating stamp. The bottom of this stamp must not contain the words "Energy Conserving". If the oil meets these parameters, it does not need to have a picture of a motorcycle on the bottle. Many "motorcycle" specific oil are more expensive due to the oil manufacturer having to pay millions in testing and they may the exact same formulation as a "non-motorcycle" specific oil.

Good Oil:

Bad Oil:

15 Minute Oil & Filter Change with Stock Pipes - Cobb

The following is my systematic step by step process for achieving a 15 minute oil change.

Tools Needed:

1 x 3/8 drive Ratchet

1 x 3/8 x 2" Extension

1 x 3/8 x 12mm Socket

1 x 5mm Hex Key

1 x 7mm Hex Key

1 x Pliers

1 x 17mm Ring/Open End Spanner

1 x Oil Drain Pan

1 x Brick

Additional Requirements:

Your Favorite Oil

Oil Filter

Front Exhaust Crush Gasket (Optional)

Tube of Hi-Temperature RTF (to help hold the exhaust gasket in place on reinstall)

The 15 Minute Oil Change systematic process:

On LH Side of Bike

1. To level Bike, place brick under side stand

2. Remove Oil Fill Bung

3. Place oil drain pan under bike

4. Remove Oil Drain plug with 17mm spanner and commence draining oil...

On RH Side of bike

5. Remove Rear Slip-on Exhaust Bolts (6mm hex) and remove mufflers. (you may be able to get by with just loosening the exhaust components)

6. Remove Front Header Pipe (12mm Socket/Ratchet)

7. Remove Oil Filter Side Cover (5mm Hex) (Watch out for rubber O-ring, make sure you put it back)

8. Remove Oil Filter Inner Cover (Pliers)

9. Remove/Replace Oil Filter

10.Replace Oil Filter Inner Cover

11.Replace Oil Filter Side Cover (5mm Hex)

12.Replace Front Header Pipe

Note: put light coating of RTF on the exhaust gasket to hold it in place in the exhaust port

13.Replace Rear Mufflers

Back to LH side:

14.Replace Oil Drain Plug.

15.Refill to halfway up Sight Glass with your favorite drop of Oil

16.Replace Oil Fill Bung

Oil Change with ORK Installed (idea from roflolinkc):

On LH Side of Bike

1. Make sure oil is warm/hot when draining.

2. To level Bike, place brick under side stand

3. Remove Oil Fill Bung

4. Place oil drain pan under bike (with plastic sheeting under pan to catch spills, if it matters to you)

5. Remove Oil Drain plug with 17mm spanner and commence draining oil...

On Front of bike frame:

6. Remove/Replace Oil Filter - put some used oil on new filter rubber gasket before installing.

Back to LH side:

7. Replace Oil Drain Plug.

8. Refill to halfway up Sight Glass with your favorite drop of Oil

9. Replace Oil Fill Bung

10. After new oil added and filter, run bike for couple of minutes, recheck oil level in sight glass. Should be about mid point.

Please dispose of old oil in an environmentally safe way.

Oil Filters

Stock Oil Filters (No ORK):

NAPA/Wix 4935 (Note: this has all O-rings included and they are the correct size)

Hastings LF583 filter (Note: this has all O-rings included and they are the correct size)

Emgo 10-79100

K&N KN-145

Hiflo HF145

Oil Filters for the Phat / Elite ORK: Thread size = 3/4 X 16 thread -- Approx. gasket ID = 2.4" - gasket OD = 2.7"

Harley Davidson (63805-80A, black) or (63796-77A, chrome)

EMGO (10-82420, black) or (10-82400, chrome)

HIFLO (HF-170, black) or (HF170C, chrome)

K&N (KN-170, black) or (KN170C, chrome)

K&N (KN-171, black) or (KN171C, chrome) with anti backflow valve

AMSOIL (SMF 135, black) or (SMF 135C, chrome)

NAPA GOLD (1215, Black) (1516, black-long) (1225, chrome)

Oil Filters for the ME ORK (Motorcycle Enhancements) Thread size = 20 X 1.5mm -- Approx. gasket size ID = 55mm - OD = 63mm

Just ask for an Equivalent Roadstar (99 to present) filter:

(note: these are all metric filters)

Thanks to curley95 on the forum - here's an updated list, with additions:

Brand Regular Chrome

============= =========== ===========

Amsoil EaOM-103 EaOM-103C

Baldwin B1400 Baldwin B1402 (long)

Bosch 3300

EMGO 10-82230 10-82220

Hastings LF-113

Hastings LF-240 (long)

HIFLO HF303 HF303C

K&N KN-303 KN-303C

Mobil M1-108

Mobil M1-110 (long)

Motorcraft FL816

NAPA Gold 1358

NAPA Gold 1356 (long)

Perf-form J-503 J-503C

STP SDF13

Wix 51358

Yamaha 3FV-13440-00

Oil Filters For the Jardine ORK

See above list (ME ORK) - same metric filters used

Oil Filters For the Barons ORK

See above list (ME ORK) - same metric filters used

Oil Light coming On After Oil Change:

The sensor is a level sensor and not a pressure sensor. Sometimes it will get a bubble over the sensor and give you a false light. Check your oil level first, then simply either do a little swerving or stab the brakes while riding a few times to break the bubble loose. More info in the forum thread below.

Oil light forum discussion thread: 13216.1


Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs

Part #'s from Advance Auto Parts today to do my service

Made by Oil-Tite

M14 X 1.50 magnetic oil drain plug # 65216

M14 Copper washers 3ea. # 65268

AutoZone it's a "Motormite" product #65216 and it's a M14-1.50 Pilot Point.

Also pick up a pack of the copper washers 14mm to go with the plug.


V STAR 1100 Riders Forum