Handlebars, Risers, Cables, Hoses

Mirrors

If you want to mount HD or other non-metric mirrors on the 1100, get a pair of converters from Kuryakyn

If you need to move mirrors out - for better vision, try these - (thanks Cobb)

Risers

Stock Riser Specs:

Center to center = 4inches

Rise - Pull Back = 2" up and 0" back

Risers and HD Bars:

Good thread on how to "modify" risers to fit with some HD bars: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=54984.1

Risers vs Cable/Line length

Changing or adding risers or changing bars will often impact the length of the stock cables and brake lines. If you add more up and/or back (rise / pull pack) then you MAY have to change to longer cables and brake lines. This may also be the case with a handlebar change, but the "rule of thumb" below will still apply if you adapt the measurements.

Handlebar/Riser "Rule Of Thumb"; Add 1 inch of cable for each inch of added rise, and one half inch of cable for each added inch of pull back. Example: if you are going up 3 inches and back 1 inch you would be adding 3.5 inches - round that up and order cables that are plus 5 over stock. See below for the Ape Hanger "Rule Of Thumb"

Riser Bushing Removal - From Road Star Clinic

Riser Bushings - Removal on bike - no press!

OK, so after the conversion to APES, I discovered the huge lack of stability in the riser bushings that come stock. And anyone wanting to remove them and replace them knows that Yamaha presses the bushings in, and you can't hammer them out. If you search the forums, everyone says you need a press to do it, and it can't be done on the bike. Which means, removing the triple trees. NO BUENO!!

Well a buddy and I sat around and were trying to get mine out, without using a press (which I do have one, but wasn't about to remove the trees) and we had already hammered and heated and cussed and beat more and tried EVERYTHING.....when we came up with a homemade press that works perfectly. Knowing what to do, the bushings were out in less than 5 minutes!!!

So, we took a long Grade 8 bolt with a washer that was just smaller than the diameter of the bushing, and ran it though the bushing. On the bottom side, we used a 36mm socket which fits perfect. Run the bolt through that as well, and add a washer to stabilize and a nut. Then start cranking. As you tighten the bolt, it will compress on the bushing and then suck the bushing down into the socket. We used a 1/4" drive for leverage, but in less than 5 minutes, it was out.

I replaced with the Barons Good-n-Tite bushings and it is night and day difference. Far better handling, no shake...definitely worth the $35.

Risers

starroderr: For Pull Back risers: You need to unhook the choke and the clutch cables. Both should be EZ to do at the handle bar end. As for the electric wires, just give a little pull where it comes out under the tank. The throttle should be fine the way it is. And now the brake; loosen the clamp and slide the lever in about 1/2 inch then loosen the bolt on the banjo slightly, just enough so that you can rotate the hose in the right direction.

SilverBack: A very popular riser is the Pro-1 Riser originally designed for the Road Star, but will fit the V*Star, also - once the question of brake line and cable length is addressed. the answer to the "will they fit with stock lines and cables" has a varied history. Fits some, doesn't fit others. Many folks with models prior to the most recent ones have found they fit with a little adjustment: turn the banjo brake connector to point down, and reroute the clutch cable - voile'. Others have found that a plus 2" brake cable is needed from the bar top to the junction on the fork, plus rerouting the clutch cable. With the latest bike years, it seems that Yamaha has shortened the cables and brake lines (really??) do the "need longer" / doesn't fit stock" answer is becoming more prevalent.

On my 02 Classic they fit stock, with the changes mentioned in the following article - initially. I had a little "tennis elbow" and wrist strain, so I went to 2" over brake line so I could drop the bars a little to give my arms a rest.

My personal recommendation is to get the 2" over brake line, reroute the cables and see if it works for you. The 2 over line will give you more flexibility of bar position. If the clutch cable remains too short / tight, roll the bars up a little so you can still ride - and order the longer cable.

vstar1100.com Article on Pro-1 Riser Install If you've never installed risers, watch this video

Cables

See also - Maintenance - Cables

Also see - Risers vs Cable/Line length - above

Choke Relocation

George Dumpit's Reaper Jr. Choke Relocation

Single Throttle Cable

You can eliminate the "return" cable, and run with a single "pull" cable - and use a chrome bolt to lug the empty cable hole on the control box.

Ape Hanger Cable Length "Rule Of Thumb"

When adding ape hangers, you will obviously need to get extended control cables and a brake hose. A quick formula is to take the height of the apes and subtract 6". So for adding 18" ape hangers, you'd need a the cables/hoses 12" longer than stock. You can order using this sizing from most any cable manufacturer or retailer. They should know the stock length of the cables.

However, there can be differences because some of these bars may have a wider or narrower spread, or the rider may prefer to angle them differently for comfort, or the riser height may be different. Obviously, if you have something a little different than the normal or a different routing path, the best way to measure for length is to mount everything, lay out the cable/hose routing then carefully measure everything to length.

Fitting Vista Cruise to Kuryakyn ISO Grips

ClassicRide2 - Another way to do it:

If you look at the pictures will notice the silver band over (around) the black body of the cruise control. I reversed this so the black body is on the inside closer to the end of the handle grip. I then Dremeled out the inside of the black body about 1/16" so it would fit over the raised part of the Kury grip. I removed the set screws, center punched the handle and drilled small holes the same size as the set screws. I then put the set screws in through the black body and into the raised part of the Kury handle. That makes it fit without ever having to worry about slipping off and you don't need to use the rubber spacers.

DIY Throttle Locks

SHOOTFIRE - Vacuum Hose Throttle Lock:

You can have one for about 30 cents. So no big deal if it turns out you don't like it.

Get about 1 foot of vacuum hose......the right size that just slips in the gap between flange on the throttle grip and the cable housing. Small stuff.....maybe 1/8" or 3/16"?

Wrap one end around the brake lever in front of that gap. Take 2 or 3 black cable ties and tie it off tightly to the brake lever. Leave plenty on the other end so as to make it easy to use. You will need a few extra inches beyond the full roundness of the grip. Trim both ends to your taste.

When you hit the road, simply pull the the rubber line down into that gap when you reach the approximate speed you like. Wrap it just a bit for a lighter friction on the throttle, or wrap it a long ways for a tighter and longer lasting setting on the throttle. You can wrap it with either hand since the throttle will still rotate just fine with it pulled down.

You can still manipulate the throttle with the hose in place, no problem.....so safety is not a big issue. Just yank it out when you approach an area that you will manipulate the throttle a lot.

When it is not in use or parked, simply poke the loose end up by housing.....no more loose end and it blends in very well then.

With a bit of use, you will become used to it. It is hokey, but it works great. I had seen folks talk about that little trick for years, but for one reason or another I never tried it. How stupid of me. It has been a Godsend in my case, as an old injury aggravates the numb throttle hand syndrome for me and was really cutting into my riding time.

Pictures (click for larger image):

How it's attached. Ready to use.

Hiding Wires / Internal Wiring

G. Dumpit's "Internal Handlebar Wiring: http://www.dumpit.org/reaperjr/wiring.htm

Baron's Instructions on Internal Bar wiring: http://www.baronscustom.com/files/techdocs/Handlebar_Wiring_Hints_v1.pdf

Forum Thread on DYI Hints / Methods: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=52239.18

Boxes / Covers / chrome/Polished

From SilverBack (AGBack): Some discussion on controls/switch boxes

Warning: When replacing the master cylinder, bleeding the cylinder and the full front brake line system is required - see the section on brakes and bleeding - click here

Warning: Whenever you open either of the switch boxes you are very likely to screw things up - springs might fall out, things might not install right (missed tabs, etc) - be very careful, don't let things pop apart,do your disassembly/reassembly in a large plastic bag - to capture flying parts, and document everything - exactly what tab is behind what small metal protrusion, etc.

As far as I was able to ascertain, no diagrams of the two switch boxes exist. Yamaha does not sell parts, only the complete assemblies.

I must apologize, I missed a perfect opportunity - did not take pictures of my sojourn inside these "wonderful" little gems when I swapped out my stock boxes from polished ones from TimB.

If you are going to switch out your boxes, please beg borrow or steal a digital camera and take a 100 pictures (over kill is good in this case) - so we can update this and make the job easier for others.

Specific things to watch for in the control boxes:

Do the right box first - easier, more room to work, better opportunity to avoid problems and learn.

Left Box

-- Left box, the worst of the two - more stuff in there, tighter, easier to screw up. Will take a lot of playing around and patience to figure the right sequence to remove and replace parts, and how to best remove wires and then stuff them back in place. Document what you do and be patient. The wires must go back exactly in the same place with the same routing as in the original setup - and it will take a little nudge here and there to carefully poke the wires back in place.. This side is packed, but it can be undone and redone - even by a big gorilla with big fingers, such as myself

-- Horn Button Switch - this one (like the Starter Switch on the other side) can come apart and you can loose internal parts - when I got it out, I wrapped with strip of duct tape to keep it together, and was very careful to hold it together when I put it into the new box. Be very careful on removing, and to note the orientation of the conical spring that will have to be removed separately (it will fall out). That spring is larger in diameter on one end that the other, and the two different size ends exactly match the sizes of the two sides of the contacts in the switch. Make sure to note which end goes where (although you can figure it out afterward based on the size of the spring end and the size of the place on which it rests).

-- The trickiest part of reassembly was the lack of space and my big mitts - it was difficult to hold the spring in place (both ends) while reassembling and tightening screws. Trial and error and 4 or 5 false finishes before I got it in right. Finally I used an old 2 inch long flexible feeler gauge to hold it in place with some tension as I carefully tightened the screw. The feeler was flexible enough to bend in an arc for access and yet firm enough to depress the spring and hold it in place. Also, this spring is easy to bend out of shape, so treat it gently and be careful not to pinch it as you tighten the screws.

-- Hi-Low Beam Switch - watch this one carefully, and notice that it relies on a small 'tit" to be behind a bulge in the case to hold it closed / together. Look closely so you can address that "tit" when reassembling. Also, because that one side has no restraint, the switch looks like it can fall apart once removed - so I put a strip of duct tape on to hold it together until ready to reinstall, and then held it together carefully to ensure it did not pop open. When reassembling, do it carefully, partially install the screw on the other side of the switch, and then use something like a pocket knife blade to pressure the "tit" inward (closing a gap in the switch) and sliding the tip behind the bulge in the housing, and hold in place with your thumb while tightening the screw on the other side of the switch. If the "tit' is not properly placed, the switch halves remain slightly separated and the switch does not work.

-- Turn Signal Switch - nothing out of the ordinary here - it just makes everything very crowded, add more wires and confusion.

Right box

-- Right box - less crowded, easier to work with -- but both switches can give trouble. Do this side first, even though my instructions focus on the left side.

-- Kill Switch - same construction and concerns as the Hi-Low Beam Switch on the other side - follow those instructions.

-- Starter Switch - same construction and concerns as the Horn Switch on the other side - follow those instructions.

More Discussion on Control Boxes:

-- Excellent thread on the forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=52315.1

HD Hand Control Installation

From Bulldog (David Tise) How to install HD to Yamaha control and wiring diagram

Picture - courtesy TheGrish - a set of HD aftermarket controls. They range from about $200 and up (Can even find them cheaper used). I paid $232 delivered to my door for set of Custom Chrome controls for a late model soft tail. I had to remove the clutch safety, and the signals switches are a little different, but I gained cruise control, and they look much better than the stock units. It also gives a little more variety to lever selection, MC covers, grips, and the mirrors don't need ugly adapters. Bulldog, on the Barons Tech forum posted directions for this mod, and was a lot of help when I did mine.

From Robert Gherson - How he installed HD controls, based on Bulldog's instructions and help. Click Here for Instructions

From OCCfan2 - V-Star to Joker Machine controls wiring how to - thread: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=46309.1

Choke Relocation - Stuwindsurf

I relocated my choke lever to the carb cover on the left hand side as other have, and re-used the choke lever from the handlebar control.

I mounted it to the carb cover bracket which allows the lever to fit nicely so it just sticks out from the back of the carb cover. There is even a ready made cut out in the back edge of the cover which lends itself perfectly to the movement of the choke lever.

I also re-used the original cable, I just had to shorten it and fit a solderless barrel on the end. (Google for solderless nipple)

(As you've probably guessed, I love re-using stuff if I can!!) :o)

RedLegRider's Choke relocation: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=39129.1

Reaper Jr's Choke Relocation

HD Cable - Choke Relocation - PEK (PerErikK)

Relocated the choke today using a HD short choke wire, part #29229-88D. I relocated it behind the the original carb cover.

I had to manufacture a "barrel" at the end of the cable for it to fit in the original Yammi wire attachment point.

I mounted the choke knob on the bracket that holds the carb cover by drilling a 10mm hole in it.

The cable is $19.99 at J&P Cycles.

I made the barrel out of a 5mm drill bit which I cut a 7mm long piece off.

The end of the HD cable is a little "ball".

The HD cable is a tad too long but it opens the choke to the max anyway, so it being too long is not a problem.

As you can see in the pics of the installation the knob is barely visible once the cover is mounted back on. Attach a chrome choke knob, and it's almost invisible.

Another Choke Relocation - Behind Left Skull - Legion (le_rumain)

First, I have to tell you this mod will greatly hinder your access to the back of the skull. So if you're taking the skull home every night it may not be for you (lol). I never remove the skull, not even when re-jetting so all's good.

The good part is the cable now stays with the carbs, does not have to be adjusted again, clears the handlebars and has a nice click, click, click sound when pushing. In order to complete this mod I took off the tank and the seat. Nothing else. Use blue thread locker on all threads; wear gloves when manipulating the cable

Purchased a friction shift lever. They come in either left or right handedness. I got the on the left of the pic. Those thingies attach to a 0.85" frame pipe and allow a pretty wide range of movement and adjustable friction force.

HD Throttle Cable - Hook to Stock 1100 Carbs

From: PEK (PerErikK)

Since I wasn't too keen on buying another stainless throttle cable when I already had bought the stainless HD cable, I started some thinking and came up with this solution, and I thought I'd share this mod with you guys. I'm very pleased with the way it came out!

What I did was to make a cut with my trusty Dremel in an M6 nylock nut for the wire to slip into. Then I made the same cut into an M6x1.0 threading tool, also for the wire. Mounted the carb end of the HD cable in my bench wise, and threaded the end of it.

The rest was a piece of cake, just slip the cable into the original Yammi bracket on the carbs and tighten the nylock nut. Worked perfect and the cable is secure.

Stock Classic Bar Sizes (04 Silverado)

Height: 6.5" Pullback: 13" Center: 8" Width: 33" Diameter: 1"

How To Measure Bars

More: Bar Sizing Chart: http://www.sideroadcycles.com/AmericanMotorcycles/Handlebars/Stock_Bars.html

Quick Throttle

Mod to reduce twist needed to apply throttle- see thread at: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=18399.1

How To Change Bars

From Drostar100:

Step One

Remove the bar end weights. If you are installing aftermarket bars you will either need to buy new grips or remove the threaded inserts from the stock bars because the bar end weights hold the stock grips on and they can not be reused with out some modification which I will address later.

Step Two

Remove the left side grip. The best way to do this is to use a small flat blade screw driver to lift the grip away from the bars, and then spray some carb cleaner between the grip and the bar. Remove the screw driver, twist the grip around a little bit to loosen it, reinsert the screw driver. It should go in farther this time spray more carb cleaner…….repeat this process until the grip comes off.

Step Three

Remove the screws from the left side control box and remove the box from the bars then loosen the clutch cable by turning the adjustment screw all the way in, line up the slots and remove the cable. Unplug the wires for the clutch safety switch. Loosen the bolt on the clutch perch and slip the perch off of the bars.The left side is now completely clean.

Step Four

Loosen the adjustment on the throttle cable to give you some slack. Remove the two screws from the right side control box, but leave the cables attached for now you may not have to remove them. Unplug the wires for the front brake light. Remove the master cylinder by taking the clamp off of the bars. Just let it hang for now.

Step Five

Remove the four bolts in the risers, make sure and hold the bars so they don’t swing down and hit the tank. Once the caps are removed slide the bars to the left and out of the throttle grip.

Step Six

Slide the new bars into the throttle grip and reinstall the riser clamps. Now you are in the mock up stage, you can check cable fit brake line length etc….If everything fits then you can go ahead and bolt it back up just follow the instructions in reverse order (I always love that line in the manual)If something is too tight go to step seven

Step Seven

If the throttle cables are too short remove them from the grips, take the pull cable (the front one) off first this is the one you should have more slack in. Then you can turn the grip a little to get enough slack to remove the push cable. Run the cables back through the triple tree and then up to the grip. With the cables behind the tree you should gain a couple inches. Check the fit again. Do the same with the clutch cable if necessary, this usually gets routed outside the forks to make it fit.

If the brake line is too tight you can first try just barely loosening it and turning the fitting to create some slack. Don’t loosen it much because you don’t want brake fluid dripping on your paint or plastic parts, it will eat both of them and you don’t want any air to enter the system.

If that doesn’t work cover everything on the front of the bike with plastic (a tarp or heavy trash bags work well) and remove the line and rout it behind the trees also. Now you will have to bleed the front brakes which I am not going to get into and it’s in the KB already anyway.

Step Eight

If they still will not fit you should be able to figure out how much longer they need to be from doing the mock up. You can order cables and brake lines from almost any on-line vendor or parts store. You are on your own on that, you are all big kids…. ;)

The MOST IMPORTANT THING

Don’t take no for an answer, where there is a will there is a way. Most dealers and some parts suppliers know less about what you are doing than you do so you have to be very specific when you order parts. If you need cables and you don’t see them on the website or the shelf at the store call them or go to the counter and ask if they can order custom cables.

I say be specific but at the same time don’t give them a ton of useless info either, they don’t need to know the history of your bike all they need to know is that you want a V-Star clutch cable 2” over stock length, or a 26” brake line with 10mm banjo fittings. You don't want some kid behind the counter trying to tell you it can't be done, that's like the cashier at Home Depot telling you that you can't build a deck on your house......if it isn't in the parts book they don't know anything about it.

Reusing the stock grips on aftermarket bars.

This is really very simple but you need a Dremel with a grinding stone.

On the bottom side of the stock bars you will see a round weld on each side. I use a metal grinding stone on my dremel (one of the barrel shaped ones) grind that weld down until the threaded insert is free inside the bars and then pull them out.

Smear a little JBWeld on them and tap them into the new bars.

Custom Controls

How to: Metric Wiring to Custom Controls - OCCfan2 - Thread W/ diagram http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=46309.1

Internal Throttle Discussion - http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=54358.1

(Note: Tim B recommends the Streamline - based on his experience)

Clutch Switch Bypass

The switch is normally open. You pull in the clutch to close the switch.

You can over-ride / bypass the clutch safety switch several ways:

On the left bar - at the clutch lever:

Just unplug the wires & NOT connect them together - you will be able to start in any gear (WARNING)

Electrically connect the 2 wires to each other in the same place - you will only be able to start in neutral.

Under the tank, at the blue connector plug:

Just remove the wire/plug coming from the clutch lever - you will be able to start in any gear (WARNING)

Leave the plug in place and electrically tie together *(pic below) the two wires that came down from the clutch lever - you will be able to start in any gear.