Redland End to Cow Roast Lock

Finding parking to split the distance between Redland End and the Dunstable Downs sensibly proved something of a challenge. We'd thought that there might be parking near the Cow Roast Lock, but decided that canal users would most likely be using any space, so we decided to park back on the A4251 just before Dudswell at SP964097, where there is a good big lay-by (indeed, there are several lay-bys in this section of road). We had a good journey here from Milton Keynes, where I had being staying for the whole of the previous week because various commitments meant it had not been worth driving home to Norfolk, whilst Richard had joined me for a Newport Pagnell Singers concert the previous evening. After leaving my car in the lay-by we drove by way of Wendover to Monks Risborough and then climbed steeply up the escarpment of the Chilterns and on to Redland End where we parked the car in the same lay-by as last time we were here, at SP836023.

It had been incredibly hot for last night's concert, but today's temperatures were much more manageable and we had a lovely walk through undulating countryside, sometimes in woodland and sometimes crossing crop fields. From Redland End, we headed off into KIngsfield Wood where we were soon walking alongside Grim's Ditch, an earthwork which we encountered on three separate occasions on today's walk. The origin of Grim's Ditch is uncertain, but it is believed to be pre-Saxon, as the Saxons tended to attribute anything of unknown original to the god Grim, another name for Woden. We cut across Barne's Grove and then across fields to encounter Grim's Ditch again, now at right angles to the orientation where we had left it previously.

We soon approached Hampden House, commenting on the clear "Chiltern Way" signpost pointing straight ahead. The core of the house is Elizabethan but it was remodelled in Gothic Style; it's a peculiar place. From the map and the instructions in the guidebook we'd expected to take a left hand turning in front of the house, but the only path we saw looked like the entrance to their garden, and we didn't notice a footpath sign on it, so we carried straight on, passing between Hampden House and another building and then passing the Church. We knew we weren't where we were supposed to be, but we didn't know what to do about it. As we stood inspecting the map, a cyclist came screeching to a halt and asked if we were OK; kind and, if I'm honest, somewhat unusual - in general I'm afraid that cyclists can be downright rude to walkers, expecting us to get out of the way for them and not thanking us. Anyway this kind cyclist advised us that there was a footpath at the point where the drive meets the road, so that was where we headed.

The path took us down a slope with Hampden House some distance to our left, and rolling countryside in front of us. Richard explained that he still knew exactly where we were, and suggested an alternative route down the slope across a couple of roads, passing some distance to the east of Hampden Bottom, then climbing up through Warren Wood to rejoin the official route...and that was what we did. It was glorious and it's difficult to imagine that the official route could be any better. Nevertheless, it was a relief to encounter Chiltern Way signs again in Warren Wood.

We continued across undulating Chilterns countryside, passing through Little Hampden then climbing up through Hampdenleaf Wood to Cobblershill Farm then down through Cockshoots Wood and into open parkland behind a couple of other walkers. We crossed the railway and passed Mayortorne Manor.After crossing the A413, we climbed again. We were beginning to want a break and eventually, just after passing the Chiltern Link, we sat down on our waterproofs for a snack. We reached the hamlet of Lee Gate, where we had expected there to be a pub; it appears to be closed now. However half a mile or so further on we passed "The Old Swan", close to the delightfully named Swan Bottom.

A mile or so further on we reached Lady Grove. As we stood to check the map, a woman with two dogs appeared from our left and turned to climb up the hill that we would be taking, but she didn't initially notice our presence. After getting over her shock at seeing us, she checked whether we needed any help; after the cyclist this morning we concluded that the people around here are nice. As previously, we actually knew where we were and were just checking the route; she went heading up the hill at speed with us following on behind, rather more slowly.

We reached Buckland Common and decided to aim for our next encounter with Grim's Ditch for lunch, hopefully around 1pm. However, there had not been many convenient stopping points on the route, so when we passed a convenient fallen-down tree as we walked through Drayton Wood, before both 1pm and Grim's Ditch, we stopped for lunch.

After lunch we continued on past Wigginton Bottom and passed both cows (do they not realise that we're approaching Cow Roast?) and horses (who clearly thought we were bringing food and were therefore quite difficult to get past). We also passed what I think was our fifth group of Duke of Edinburgh students of the day - and, like cyclists and dog-walkers, they had all been pleasant too.

We passed under the A41 in an underpass and were soon back at the A4251 at Cow Roast. The Cow Roast Inn is closed, but its unusual pub sign remains. We continued to the Cow Road Lock on the Grand Union Canal. Here we discovered that the name "Cow Roast" originated as "Cow Rest", recognising that, back in the days of cattle droving, there were many cattle pens in this area.

We left the route of the Chiltern Way and walked along the tow path, past two locks, both in use as we walked past. We were soon back at the car after a glorious walk.

Following leg