[Originally published 13 March 2019. Most recently updated on 24 October 2023]
Annotated by Phillip Williams.

Background Information About Thannie Smith Wisenbaker:

Mary Nathaniel "Thannie" Smith was born September 1852 in Rome, Floyd County, Georgia to Nathaniel Smith and his wife Mary Brooks. Nathaniel Smith was born in Ireland. He married Mary Brooks on 25 December 1830 In New York City, New York. Nathaniel Smith migrated to California during the 1849 Gold Rush. He was said to have died out in California and never had the chance to see his daughter. Her mother Mary Brooks was born in New York about 1810. The 1880 federal census, indicates that Mary Brooks's father had been born in Nova Scotia and her mother had been born in Rhode Island.  Nathaniel Smith died within a year of Thannie Smith's birth. 

She had an older sister named Elizabeth who was born in Connecticut in about 1835. She also had an older brother named Thatcher R. Smith born in 1842. Thatcher R. Smith later achieved notoriety when in December 1883, he shot Kate Thompson (a racially mixed woman with whom he had been romantically involved) in downtown Valdosta. The coroner's jury found the act to be willful murder. Thatcher Smith fled the area for a number of years before coming back years later and being found not guilty.

Thannie Smith's mother Mary married Charles Ogden Force on 16 Sep 1857  in Floyd County, Georgia. They were living in Rome, Georgia at the onset of the Civil War. Thannie Smith grew up in the household of her step-father. Force had been born in New York and came to Georgia with his family about 1840. They had settled in Chattooga County, Georgia by 1850. Force had previously been married to a Mary Elizabeth Henderson. They had Julia Force (who married her step-brother Thatcher R Smith), Richard B Force, William Minor Force, Mary Catherine Force, and Benjamin Ward Force. Based upon the 1860 Federal Census, Charles Ogden Force had been a slave owner,  but he had also freed the 19-year-old female he had owned. It is unknown if he was an absentee plantation owner and had slaves elsewhere. Wisenbaker says his plantation was a few miles from Valley Head, which is in Alabama; however, no slave schedules for an agent of his can be found.

Additional research conducted in January 2023, complicates the 1860 slave schedule for Charles Ogden Force. The court case of Cone vs. Force, shows that in January 1860 Gilbert Cone had accused Charles Ogden Force of harboring four slaves illegally, and that Force was arrested. During the case, it came to the light that the four people that Cone had claimed as his slaves were actually free persons of color, and that one of them, Sarah, was the daughter of a white woman. Superior Court records for Floyd County [Book 7, page 316] show that Sarah Lewis (a free person of color) asked that Charles O. Force be appointed her guardian, and the guardian of her four children: Lydia (14 years of age), Rosetta (11 years of age), and Jerry (9 years of age).

He does not appear to have served in the American Civil War in any capacity. His political leanings before the Civil War are unknown. He was a Union sympathizer when the war started. Charles Ogden Force was one of the few white Georgians who was a member of the Republican Party after the Civil War. He was the perennial Republican candidate in the Lowndes County, Georgia area.  He was also responsible for selling small farm lots to Freedmen in the Valdosta area following the Civil War. Those lots were located on the south side of North Street.

In 1863, Charles Ogden Force and his family fled from Rome to Lowndes County out of the path of the fighting of the Civil War and purchased the plantation of Captain James W. Patterson on what was then the outskirts of Valdosta. Thannie Smith would have been about 11-years-old at the time. 

She married Emmett Balthorpe “Ballie” Wisenbaker on 11 Nov 1875. They would go on to have seven children:

1. Ellen Wisenbaker (1877-1948) who married Horace V. Pead.

2. Bessie Wisenbaker (1879-1948) who married Carey Carlston Winslett

3. Julie Irene Wisenbaker (1881-1970) who never married and worked as a saleslady.

4. Gertrude Wisenbaker (1883-1976) who married Arthur Strom.

5. Susie Wisenbaker (1886-1977) who married Andre Dutton.

6. Carrie Wisenbaker (1894-1896) who died young from measles.

7. Grady Lamar Wisenbaker (1890-1966) who married Ella May Ponder.

 Ballie Wisenbaker died on 2 March 1897 after an accident involving a falling plank at the Strickland Guano Factory in Valdosta. He was buried in Sunset Hill Cemetery in Valdosta. Sometime between 1900 and 1910, Thannie Wisenabaker moved with most of her children to Waycross, Ware County, Georgia. She spent the rest of her life living in Waycross. She died on 24 July 1941 at 88 years of age in Waycross. After a church service in Waycross, she was buried beside her husband in Sunset Hill Cemetery in the Charles Ogden Force lot in the old section of the cemetery.

Thannie Wisenbaker is definitely a product of her time when it comes to matters of race. She regularly uses the term "darkies" to refer to African Americans throughout the narrative.

Writing and Publication History:

There are a few details in the narrative that help date when it was written. In one place Wisenbaker implies that her present was sixty-nine years after Saint Valentine's Day of 1864. This would put her writing it about 1933. Thannie Wisenbaker would have been about eighty-one years old. Elsewhere she mentions someone being alive who died in March 1934. This further indicates the manuscript was written about 1933. The DAR used her narrative as one of the primary sources for their book History of Lowndes County, Georgia first published in 1941.  A photocopy of her original manuscript is located at the Lowndes County Historical & Museum in Valdosta. There are a few stray photocopied pages in the file along with the main manuscript. It looks like she might have been working on a second draft or decided to insert additional content

Versions of her manuscript have been published before. 

All previously published versions of the narrative rely on the version copied from the original and edited by Mrs. Ann C. Richardson (24 June 1914 - 26 May 1997) at some point after 1966. The edits in the Anna C. Richardson version seem to have occurred for several reasons. Most of the edits seem to have been done due to differences in word choice and writing style. Thannie Wisenbaker would often use the term "home," and Anna C. Richardson would instead use "house."  Richardson also regularly moves the clauses in sentences around. Some edits were made because of non-standard grammar. Thannie Wisenbaker occasionally uses was in places where were would be considered "good" grammar.  Wisenbaker also regularly implies subjects, drops definite articles of words, and makes other choices that often make the narrative hard to read without inserting additional words.

Richardson also regularly inserted additional content into her version of the narrative. In previously published versions, it is often not clear what she inserted and what was in the original manuscript. Sometimes what she inserted was done to clarify something left vague by Wisenbaker. Occasionally, this led to Richardson making assumptions that further research proofs to be inaccurate. Other times, she inserts her own knowledge into the narrative. In some circumstances, her knowledge is accurate, but she mistakes a building that Wisenbaker references as the same building she knew in her youth. While Wisenbaker undoubtedly embraced the idea of "The Lost Cause," Richardson ramps up "The Lost Cause" mentality beyond the level that was present in the original narrative.

Some parts of Wisenbaker's narrative were simply omitted by Richardson. Some of these instances appear to be standard errors that creep in while copying, but there are some parts that were left out related to African Americans. The first hanging in Valdosta is not present in the Richardson version. The first hanging was of an enslaved person who is strongly implied to have been executed without a trial by hanging at the water tower by the railroad for the crime of arson. Thannie Wisenbaker quotes somebody using the term "tarbaby" while accosting a Federal soldier in Valdosta. This is dropped in the Richardson version.

Frederick Treutlen Pindar (10 January 1903 - 21 April 1978) published a version of the narrative complete with an index. In 2000, Wayne and Judy Dasher, published their own version in 2000.

This version is the first time Thannie Smith Wisenbaker's original text will be easily available to the public. Her stylistic choices are presented as they are in the original manuscript, as will be all of the content of the original. Thannie Wisenbaker's grammatical "errors" are left in the version of the narrative presented here in order to preserve the local color of the original manuscript. In order to provide additional context to details that might otherwise be obscure or to correct factual errors, annotations will be included throughout.

"Thannie Wisenbaker's View of Valdosta 1863"

The war cry was in the land. The North and the South were enemies; had been for two years. General Sherman was spreading his net; and rumors were he had already begun his journey to the sea. He was still in Tennessee. Just the name "Yankee" filled the minds of the older people with confusion and pictures of desolation and the children with fear, horror of something they could not understand. Children were not excluded from the [UNREADABLE], but heard of the great hurricane of distress and ruin. Mr. Sherman was spreading a mantle of fire and woe as he wended his way through the beautiful South land to the sea.

In those trying times, people were going to and fro, packing up what they could easily carry leaving their homes, with the accumulation of years to be destroyed by the invading army. Perhaps there are those who have read, Bill Arp's [NOTE: Bill Arp was the pen name of Charles Henry Smith a lawyer and writer who lived in Rome, Georgia during the Civil War. He also served as a Major in the 8th Georgia Infantry Regiment, CSA] account of his and "Big John" Underwood's, experience of their exodus from Rome, like all of his writings it was done in a [UNREADABLE] style, but was a fine picture of the panic. The people were going through to flee the city, before it was overrun by the army of General Sherman

All trains were crowded; and were few the civilians could get passage on; Standing room was gladly accepted. The Government was moving troops and supplies, and every faculty was in use. Long trains of box cars were fitted up with seats to convey the soldiers from one place to another.

We were fortunate to get a box car, which was soon loaded with a small amount of furniture and other household goods, including a goodly supply of provisions. We left Rome, a beautiful little cit amid the hills of Northwest Georgia, on one of the combination trains; freight, and in the rear several small coaches of passengers. It was "a slow train through Georgia," as all schedules were interrupted by the heavy traffic going North. One of the largest camps was for mobilizing troops was at Big Shanty, now Kennesaw, on the Western & Atlantic Railroad. Valdosta was our destination.

After three days and nights. We spent one night in Atlanta at the old Washington Hotel [NOTE: Also known as Washington Hall. It was destroyed during the burning of Atlanta in 1864], the next with friends in Macon, and the third with friends in Savannah; leaving the later city in the early morning of the third day over the old Atlantic & Gulf Railroad. We reached Valdosta as the sun was setting. We traveled at a snail's pace all day, conductor and engineer getting off at each station where crowds of old men, women, and boys were waiting to get the latest war news. 

We were ready to make a change, but disappointed when we left the train and looked around at the prospect of a home in this dismal little village. Clouds were gathering for a summer shower and darkness was hovering, that made it even more depressing.

We were soon housed in the only hotel, which stood a little to the rear of what is now Mr. Roddey's store on Central Avenue. [NOTE: This hotel was known as the Valdosta Hotel. It was initially ran by Nelson Conner. He sold it at some point after 1861. David Cornwell Roddey ran D. C. Roddey's 5 & 10 ¢ Store. The store was located from the early 1900s to the 1940s at 139 North Ashley Street, ie the southeast corner of Central Avenue and Ashley Street. The store was demolished before the 1980s]. It was a long rambling building, two stories high, two small halls divided the lower flat. A child could stand in the middle of the hall and touch the walls on each side. The house was not painted and just imagine how we felt when darkness came and our only light was a tallow candle. Any child brought up with slaves was afraid of the dark and. They were constantly looking for "boogers" and haints" as the flickering rays of the candles reflected on the dark walls. The corners of the room and the few articles of furniture were the hiding for all kinds of imaginary horrors the old slave nurses put us to bed and would whisper to us to close our eyes and not open them if we did a "haint" would get us. We were soon asleep and when we awoke the light of a new day was shining in.

Hovering round the mother until the second afternoon, when we decided we would venture out and see if we could find anything interesting. There was a large shop about the half way between the Ashley Street corner and what is now the Post Office [NOTE: The Post Office referred to by Thannie Wisenbaker was the Federal Courthouse and Post office that is currently Valdosta City Hall located at the northwest corner of Central Avenue and Lee Street]. We walked over and looked in. The old man in the shop was friendly to the little strangers. After a little while we went to the corner. The courthouse was located on the corner of Ashley and Central Avenue [NOTE: Northeast corner of that intersection and NOT in the center of the courthouse square]. We walked around it and gazed in.

As we were investigating, a boy came along and from his looks, we judged to be wearing a younger brother's clothing. His hat was made of the palmetto, the brim torn, a coat two sizes too small, the sleeves nearly up to his elbows. He decided to appoint himself a deputy to guard the crude building. So he informed us of the awful things hidden there. We hurriedly went back to the hotel, afraid to even look out without parental protection.

The hotel was already crowded with refugees; they were called "furriners" [NOTE: foreigners] by the country people. A family who came from the same location, with us (Rome), had a great many slaves. They were looking for a plantation where they could place them. They stopped at a country home. The farmer and his wife came out to the carriage. When she heard what their business was she said, "I would like to know what so many furriners is a'coming hor fur? You is guine to hem us in and rurn our ranges."

These were good people. Their cattle had roamed the woods unmolested. Their impressions was their privileges were going to be crowded out. They were kind and "given to hospitality" which eagerly offered with the invitation, "light," and "come in and have dinner with us, and let us feed your critters," which was the common expression for horses.

The anxiety of these old people was soon expressed for the three sons in the war, and they asked the question, "have you 'hurd' any war news?" then spoke of their boys in the army. The descendants of this old couple are some of Valdosta's most substantial citizens.

To return to the hotel, the crowd was made up of men in every walk of life. The lawyers of the town would join the people who were all transient in the hotel. On the long veranda in front. This was one of the meeting places where each item of new was related to the waiting anxious people.

The landlady, Mrs. Holton, was a fine old Southern woman, quaint would not describe her many fine qualities. [NOTE: Mrs. Rachel Jane Rushin Holton. She was the daughter of William Rushin and Mary Cox. She was the widow of Abel Holton]. She was full of wit and humor and often joined in the discussions. Her opinion was well received. She was a sister of the late Mrs. Joe Ousley [NOTE: Mrs. Angeline R. Rushin Ousley], and aunt of Mr. Maud Ousley. On one occasion she passing through the hall and smilingly said, "George and Ducky" are sitting on the porch, "sparking." 

Well I had only heard the word as a spark of fire; I decided I would see what she meant. As I was none the wiser after walking out to see, they were sitting talking at least ten feet apart. I asked my mother "what did she mean?" so the joke was on me! [NOTE: sparking is speaking]. So many of you know who these parties were, prominent people in Church and civic life in after years.

The commissary men were busy going through the country gathering corn, bacon and lard to supply the soldiers and a great many of the destitute families whose menfolks were in the war. It was a common occasion to see these people riding around in their horse carts to their more fortunate neighbors to ask for help. They generally went away well supplied with the necessities they needed.

There was the advantage of the slaves, with few exceptions, they were faithful and kept the corn cribs and smoke houses supplied for their fortunate owners. Cattle were being shipped and driven to points where they were most convenient so the armies [NOTE: That is how it is written].

Every house in town was crowded with homeless people and the trains kept bringing in others who were hunting a place of safety. Vacant stores were opened for "havens" for these people, several families of whom were already here when we came:

• Myddletons from Liberty County.

• Langs from Camden County.

• Bessents and DeLyons from Charleston [NOTE: Thannie Wisebaker appears to have been misinformed about the Bessants and the DeLyons. Abraham J Bessent's family had been living at St. Marys, Camden County, Georgia in 1860. The DeLyon brothers were among the founders of Valdosta in 1860. They had been born in Savannah, moved to Thomasville, moved to Troupville in the 1850s, and then to Valdosta in 1860. The DeLyons maternal grandparents the De La Motta family were a Jewish family from Charleston].

• Ralstons, Dicksons, Charltons, Butlers, Conley, O'Conners [NOTE: O'Connell], Mays, Gays, and Jacksons from Savannah.

• Rileys, Barnwells, Pritchards from Barnwell and Beaufort, South Carolina.

• Stewarts and Downs from Darien. [NOTE: Census records and all other available data indicate that the Stewart family and the Downs family were from St. Marys, GA]

• Archy Smiths from Marietta.

• The E. V. Johnsons from Kingston; they came in December 1863, five months after we came.

• Mitchels, Jarmons, Ricks, Hamiltons and Forces from Rome.

• The Parsons and Caldwell families from Atlanta in the spring of 1864. 

• The Peacocks came from Vicksburg, Mississippi. They came in 1864.

• Wilsons came from Effingham County.

[NOTE: Several more of the above might not be accurate. It would be wise to verify the above with research].

We were in the hotel, three weeks. When we reached the town we thought we would make our home at the place where Mr. Will Converse lived a good many years, corner of Patterson and Valley. This property came in the possession of our family. Price paid for it in Confederate money $1,200.00. We also owned the Al Converse lot. Price paid for this $500.00 in Confederate money. Col. Richard Peeples had the property in charge and it was through him that the deal was made. He had the farm on North Patterson Street in charge, and this also came in our possession. There were 500 acres in this place. The price paid $1,500.00 in Confederate money. [NOTE: The deed from Fannie Patterson, the widow of James W. Patterson was enacted 27 July 1863. It was for 400 acres. Deeds for the Converse property have not been found as of yet].

We could not get possession of the home on the corner of Patterson and Valley Street. It was packed with homeless people. The Al Converse lot had a very small cabin there. The farm on North Patterson had not been occupied since Captain Patterson. That being their old home. Mrs. Patterson went with him. He was killed in the first battle of Manassas.

As it was a home we were looking for, and "any port in a storm," the Patterson Street farm was our destination. We thought for a little while, but a change of plans and a sale, made it our home for many years. The house proper was a large log house with a wide open hall through it. Being comparatively new, there were no overhead ceilings. The binders and shingles were in full view, and it was a harbor for snakes and lizards. The grounds, like every vacant lot in Valdosta, were overgrown with weeds. Dog fennels waved their lazy plumes and made the place look "weird" and "spooky." The Gnats were in possession. 

There was a dim wagon road up to the place with a heavy growth of trees on each side. Here you now have a fine view from the town to where Gordon Street crosses Patterson Street; you could just see the house through the trees. Gordon Street was just a dim road.

[Below is a depiction of the Patterson cabin. It is on display at the Lowndes County Historical Society & Museum]

As the place was to be renovated, we moved into a small log house, about a block the Little & Griffin Hospital is now located. [NOTE: The Little Griffin Hospital was located at 1310 North Patterson Street. The James Burgsteiner cabin was located about where the parking lot south of Valdosta State University's Mass Media building is or at 30.844834° -83.286537°].

We we were soon housed as well as could be expected in a three room house, one large room in front and two shed room in back with a small entry in between, a long front porch faced the Mile Branch.

This was originally the home of Mr. James Burgsteiner, where Messrs. John, William, and Tom Burgsteiner, and their sisters, Mrs. Hesters, Mrs. Martin and Mrs. Powell were reared. [NOTE: Mrs. Mary Anne Burgstiner Hester Wooding, Mrs. Caroline S. Burgsteiner Martin, Mrs. Kathryn Burgsteiner Powell]. 

[NOTE: The following paragraph is from a page found in the file at the end of the pages of the main manuscript. The page after this page has not been found. Because of that the paragraph ends mid sentence. It is inserted into the narrative here for thematic convenience].

The ladies of the village old came to call on my mother. Among them was Mrs. Hesters - a daughter of Mr. Burgsteiner. She spoke of being a widow and then preceded to tell how Mr. Hesters met his death. He was hunting across the mile branch on what is now the campus of the college, and in stepping near a log was bitten by a large rattle snake. Well, I was listening; had been frightened. While staying in the old Burgsteiner home [UNREADABLE] a commotion in the small entry back by a, it was a large snake. They said it was harmless. Then a younger member of the family and I were chased across the field by two black snakes - so when the lady preceded to tell us the fields were infested...

A large kitchen about 50 yards back from the house, had to answer for kitchen, dining room and servant's room, as Mr. Sherman had confiscated some of these, we managed some way. A chimney of sticks and clay filled a greater part of one end. The crane hung to accommodate the pots and kettles. This was the principal mode of cooking in those days. This would be called a camp in these modern days. 

It was the first house built on this plantation when Mr. Burgsteiner came to the county a pioneer. A greater part of the citizens remember the large Oak tree near the corner of the Bray residence. [NOTE: The John N Bray residence was located at 1203 North Patterson Street, northeast corner of Patterson and Ann Street]. Under the shade of this oak was the last resting place mother and brother of this [NOTE: the Burgsteiner] family. Where is it today disappeared and underneath the side walk is the dust of these people which had blended with mother earth. In the search for a thing  tangible, there was not even a handful of dust, so many years had passed since they had been buried there. When Patterson Street was opened through, the old oak tree stood in the survey of the street and was finally destroyed. And so the little plot of ground which been fenced, first with rails, and then with a picket fence, would have to be removed to make room for progress.

The old stage road passed between the front gate of this home and the "Mile Branch," passing through what is now the colored people's cemetery, crossing the Branch at the old "ford." which every boy and girl of that generation and the next remember as the most popular bathing place for Valdostans. Over this road all goods and supplies were hauled to Troupville and other towns by wagon trains before the railroads came through. We were in this home for six weeks. Two cases of typhoid fever developed in the family and we hurriedly move to the Patterson Street place.

[NOTE: This begins a flashback to when the Force family was still living in northwest Georgia] in the Rome area.

A wall of difficulties surprisingly was before us. We supposed we were safe  here from "Yankee" invasion, which as some consolation. We knew they would never find us here which was a mistaken idea. The parts of the states they had passed through they foraged for miles. 

Lookout Mountain was a rough, uncultivated country. Only in certain sections, and the Yankees found their way through and destroyed and carried away everything movable. Mr. Force had a plantation in the mountains a few miles from the village of Valley Head,  After the Yankees reached Chattanooga foraging parties branched off in every direction, a number of them going up the mountain. They were soon joined by deserters from the Confederate Army who were hiding in the caves and natural fastness of the mountain. The Yankees were led in all directions, they found the mountain home of Mr. Force, through this agency.

Mr. Force was a Union sympathizer, but this was not an obstacle in their way. they demolished everything; cut up feather beds and mattresses, scattered the contents to the four winds. When they were through there was one old fashion leather valise left in an upstairs room. Horses, cattle, hogs, turkeys, and chickens and last but not least, all of the slaves were driven off, some of these were driven with bayonets in the backs. Furniture cut up and burned.

Our [UNREADABLE] began before we left our home in Rome. We were there when the crier went through the streets at four o'clock in the morning, waking the people, giving the information, "the Yankees are coming! They are out at the Shorter place!" [NOTE: This is most likely the Alfred Shorter place which was just across the Etowah River west of Rome, Georgia] Everybody was, hiding their silver and other valuables, but General Forest heard of the movements of Colonel Streight and his raiders 1,600 strong and with 300 men captured them and brought them in. They were sent to Andersonville as prisoners of war. [NOTE: Union Colonel Abel Delos Streight led a raid through northern Alabama in April to May 1863. On 3 May 1863, Streight's forces were captured by those of Confederate General Nathan Bedford Forrest at about three miles east of Cedar Bluff, Alabama (which is about twenty miles west of Rome, Georgia].

Then we were at Kingston, the Sunday when Andrews, the Northern spy and his associates took the engine from Big Shanty, now Kennesaw. We saw it pass through the village, heard of the excitement later on when Captain Fuller arrived in pursuit. We as children did not know what to expect. 

[NOTE: Andrew's Raid aka the Great Locomotive Chase occurred on Saturday, 12 April 1862. It is unknown why Thannie Wisenbaker jumped back from May 1863 to April 1862. She now jumps back to Valdosta]. 

A new cloud appeared on the horizon, our imaginary troubles were not over. Some one came along after we were settled in the new home and "like Job's comforter of old" said a man had died in the house with smallpox and was buried under one of the windows in the rear of the house. A cotton mattress had been torn up and scattered over the yard and the ground was not broken. We heard later heard and some one substantiated it, the soldier was in the house a few hours and died and was buried at Cat Creek.

I will try to bring in items of the locality of some of the buildings of the village, as I go along in my rambling reminiscences of those days. I will begin with the courthouse, which I know with so many other buildings in the town were hastily put up, and served well in its crude state for so many important capacities, but was finally desecrated when it used as headquarters for the "Carpetbaggers." It was on the corner of the Central and Ashley Street [NOTE: Northeast corner]. It was a square unpainted building and not finished on the inside, was well lighted with windows. Two doors on the front, one opening into the courtroom, the other into the clerk's room. Skeleton steps [NOTE: Skeleton steps or skeleton stairs refer to stairs with just the treads and no risers] in front of both doors. The clerk's office was in the northwest corner, it was a very small room from which a door led into the courtroom. The desk was small affair. The drawers stood partially open, showing that it was not locked. Old papers, and I suppose, old court records filled the desk and the little compartments on top.

The building was used as a schoolhouse. I do not remember that court was ever in session; everything in a civil line was at a standstill. [NOTE: Court sessions in Lowndes County continued during the Civil War, but were very short]. The mind of the people were in a constant chaos. The old men, women and children, and few disabled soldiers would meet the trains in the afternoon to hear the news from the front; only one train a day. There were very few newspapers [that] reached this corner of seclusion; not any dailies, a few weeklies. Excitement ran high; men would forget their food to discuss the news.

We'll return to a description of the village; touching on the conditions of the times as I go along.

Mrs. E. L. Moore's home [NOTE: Mrs. Martha Strickland Moore. The address of the house was 312 North Patterson Street. It was nearly directly across the street from the Presbyterian Church] was then the home of Dr. William Ashley. He was the father of the late Colonel Daniel C. Ashley and his sister, Mrs. LaMartine Varnedoe nee Miss Anne Ashley]. 

[Below is a photo of the Dr. William Ashley house shortly before it was demolished in 1950]

The was the last house on this side it [the street]. A forest of pine grew near this home up to the head of Patterson Street. This was unbroken woods to the Hightower lands [NOTE: Henry Hightower and later Byrd Hightower] going west, with one or two exceptions: a large farm house with fields some where near the west end of what is now Gordon Street, the woods extended to the front entrance of this plantation. 

I heard who the owners were, but have forgotten. After William Goldwire disposed of his plantation in the Mt. Zion neighborhood (1,000 acres of land) to Mr. Erastus V. Johnson, Mr. Goldwire moved to town to this plantation with his large herd of cattle and sheep. He may have owned it as he was there when the war closed in April 1865. [NOTE: Deed records indicate that the south half of this land lot exchanged hands a number of times in the 1850s and early 1860s, before coming into the possession of William H. Goldwire. James Wisenbaker sold that farm to Henry L. Stibbs on 13 December 1859. Stibbs sold it to William H. Goldwire on 3 December 1863].

Mr. Goldwire was a Baptist minister and had charge of the Baptist people at this time. Mrs. Goldwire died there, and a few years later Mr. Goldwire went to Virginia and married the widow of Captain Patterson. I generally mention this as an item of history. This house became the residence of some of Valdosta's most prominent citizens in later years. Col. Richard Peeples, Captain James Staten, Mr. Martine Varnedoe, Mr. Albert Converse Sr., lived there for a while. He owned the land adjoining this plantation to the west.

Going back to Patterson Street across from Dr. William Ashley's (now Mrs. E. L Moore's) was the residence of Mr. Albert Converse, Sr. These two homes were two of the first built in Valdosta.

The old Converse home became the residence of Captain Hamp Smith, a man of sterling worth and prominence. He came to Valdosta in the early seventies, was the father of Mrs. Henry Briggs Jr. [NOTE: Mrs. Julia Smith Briggs], and Mrs. Aleph [Smith] McRae. Family after family occupied this house as the years went by, until it became the home of Dr. Little, and then came in the possession of Mr. Oscar Dalton and was moved to a lot next to the Library. I am giving this record to show the well preserved house of 84 years. [NOTE: The address of the house was 305 North Patterson Street. It was located in the parking lot between the Converse-Dalton-Ferrell House and what is now (2019) the United States Post Office. It was moved to 108 Briggs Street by 1940. Briggs Street next to the Lowndes County Historical Society now deadends just about where the house once was]. 

[Below is a photo of the Albert Converse Sr. house. The façade of it was heavily modified by the time the photo was taken].

Going north on Patterson Street from the Converse home were fields to what is now Webster Street, then dense woods to the Patterson place. Going east the fields extended to the Morgan lands which began somewhere near Lee Street and extended to Troup Street, where Miss Corintha Morgan, the last of the family now resides. [NOTE: The Morgan house was located at 400 North Troup Street. The house was the residence of the widow of William Louis Morgan, Mrs. Mary Ann Morgan Morgan. William Louis Morgan was murdered in 1861 by Hustus Berrien Studstill. It is unknown when the house was demolished]. There was not any streets running through this section from Patterson to Troup Street. Somewhere near what is now Ashley Street in the field a dwelling house. It appeared to have been a country home before the town came. What attracted us was a large pile of peaches in the yard. The [UNREADABLE] came of this - peach brandy was made there. Webster and North Streets was not open; cow paths ran in all directions.

"Those who laid the foundation for the existence of Valdosta," the first citizens, I was told resided in Troupville with few exceptions. After the railroad was a certainty, these far-seeing men knew commercial interest to be considered, for the building and growth of a city. Quitman and Thomasville, had been in existence for some time, both near the railroad; competition was to be feared.

Thomasville was a very important center, as it was in a section where a great deal of wealth surrounded it. Extending down into Florida were many fertile fields and colonial homes of wealthy planters.

The citizens of Troupville knew it was to their interest to move. As railroads carry civilization and progress. So in 1859, the exodus began. These people crossed the Withlacoochee River, some even moving their houses. Lumber in those days was lasting as has been proven by some the homes in Valdosta.

I can imagine Mr. Hugh Bryant standing by the roadside cheering the people as they passed along. He assisted them, as he had more than a hundred slaves, their cabins scattered over lands now known as the "McKey Plantation." He was a nephew of Governor Troup and it was through the Governor, he came into possession of this property. 

I have been told that Governor Troup visited Mr. Bryant and was entertained in the little hewed log house which stands and faces the highway to Troupville. The place then may have had a larger dwelling, but there was no protection from fire.

Mr. Bryant did improve the place by building a commodious dwelling, which was burned after coming in Mr. Mckey's possession. After the slaves were freed Mr. Bryant soon joined his brother, Mr. Jack Bryant, in Brunswick, and made his home there. This information was gathered from those who were the pioneers and had made their homes in Valdosta when we came. The greater part of them represented those who were at the head of civic affairs in Troupville. [NOTE: The name is usually seen as Hugh Bryan. He came to Lowndes County around 1860. His plantation spanned from Wood Valley to the Lowndes County High School. Bounded on the west by James Road, on the north to about where Crooked Circle is, and on the south by Park Avenue Road. It doubtful that Governor George Troup visited Hugh Bryan. Troup died on 26 April 1856. Hugh Bryan came into possession of the plantation on 6 January 1861. Hugh Bryan was living in Savannah, Georgia at the time of the 1860 census. Governor Troup was Hugh Bryan's maternal grandfather. A number of freedman with the surname Troup were employed by Bryan in 1869 and 1870. Those slaves appear to be the origin of the surname Troup in the Lowndes County area].

[Some of the pioneers of Valdosta were]: 

Dr. William Ashley, Captain Henry Briggs, Mr. Albert Converse Sr. Col. [William Louis] Morgan, Captain Moses Smith, Captain [James W.] Patterson, Mr. Sim Smith, Messrs. Tom and Josh Griffin, Colonel Richard Peeples, Thompson Peeples, Mr. James Goldwire, Dr. [Thomas] Ellis, Mr. Fred Ellis, Cashens, Bostons, Hewitts, Tompey Roberts, Colonel William Dasher, Colonel Baker, Messers. Henry and William Smith, Liles, George Roberts and others. A few of these had passed on when we came. Dr. Ashley died about the time we came and Mrs. Ashley died within the year. Col. Morgan, Dr. Ellis, Captain Patterson, Tompey Roberts [NOTE: Tompey Roberts is Reuben Thompson Roberds, the first mayor of Valdosta] were all dead.

Those who were in the Confederate Army were: 

• Captain Henry Briggs

• James Boston

• Captain Henry Smith

• Captain Moses Smith (killed)

• Colonel [Andrew Jackson] Liles

• George Roberts

• John Goldwire (killed)

• Captain Patterson (killed), 

• Henry Moore (killed)

• Charlie Morgan

• Luke Morgan (killed)

• Henry Morgan - William Morgan

• John Dampier

• Bob Dampier

• Sam Griffin

• John Hewitt

• March Griffin [Marquis Lafayette Griffin]

• Bob Sego, 

• Adrial Wisenbaker

• Jim A. Wisenbaker

• Henry Wisenbaker

• James A. Dasher 2nd (and his father)

• John Burgsteiner

• Tom Burgsteiner - William Burgsteiner

• Tom Crawford

• Virgil Dasher - Will Strickland

• Mr. [Troup A. A.] Bryan (killed), 

• Ben Boston - Jim Boston

• Alonzo Hewitt

• Captain Ben Moseley.

Those who volunteered from other points but came to Valdosta after the surrender were: Thatcher Smith, Mr. J. O. Varnedoe, Henry Wilson, Dick Ralston, Bob Myddleton, Dick Force, Willis Lang, Billie Bessent, Joe Knight, Bob Butler, Louis Cook, Henry Butler, Gus Peacock, Willie McRae, Mr. C. C. Varnedoe, Will Lippett, Mr. Darnell and others.

William Wisenbaker owned the plantation where a part of Valdosta is now situated. His home was the John. T. Roberts place on what is now Wells Street. He built this home which Mr. Roberts remodeled after it came in his possession. How long Mr. Wisenbaker lived there before the railroad came through, I never heard, but I suppose a good many years as he was a pioneer citizen and the place was well improved. 

I was told by one of his descendants that his sons plowed the fields where the business houses of Valdosta are located. He owned the lands where the Southern Railroad yards, on the southwestern part of the city, extending to Duke's Bay, there adjoining his brother, James Wisenbaker, the father of the late Mr. J. O. Wisenbaker.

As he was opposed to the railroad passing through his property, and soon sold out and moved to the Ocean Pond section. He was the grandfather of Mrs. Ewell Brown [NOTE: Lilla Narcissis Wisenbaker Brown], of Lake Park, and of Mrs. Adrial Wisenbaker, near Dasher.

The sound of the hammer must have been heart early and late at the beginning of this new town. Quite a number of good homes for that day and time were erected, several still stand as memorials to those so closely associated with the progress of the town and county and whose descendants have made the "rank and file" of Valdosta's good citizens. Many of these are now just a memory.

The pioneer citizens were: Christian Dasher, John Wisenbaker, James Wisenbaker, James Burgsteiner, Byrd Hightower, Frank Jones, Joseph F. Helvingston, J. A Dasher, Sr. William Wisenbaker, They all lived near or on lands that are now Valdosta. Their adjoining property created a great countryside extending north, south, east and west. Their lands joining making a great country side extending North South East and West. All were successful farmers, having quite a large number of slaves. The McCalls were also among the pioneers. Messrs. Israel and Charlie Waltour lived nearby, but I do not know if they were among the pioneers.

 Mrs. Riley was among the refugees who [was] on South Patterson Street [NOTE: Mrs. Elizabeth A Riley]. Other refugees, the Screvens and Walburgs were only in Valdosta a part of their times; their families were not here. They, with Mrs. Riley owned more than a thousand slaves. Mrs. Riley owned a plantation beyond Mud Swamp, to the right of the public road to Clyattville [NOTE: About where I-75 exit 13 is. The public road to Clyattville is now known as Old Clyattville Road]. All of the slaves of these three parties were from the rice plantations, from their looks and manners seemingly were not far from evolution. Messrs. Walburg and Screven rented plantations in the Rocky Ford district and other parts of South Georgia. [NOTE: Jacob Walburg purchased Oak Grove Plantation from the estate of Benjamin F. Lane Sr. on 27 December 1860. Oak Grove Plantation was southwest of Clyattville and stretched for several thousand acres. George Proctor Screven purchased LL 62, 63. LD 15 from John W. Spain on 13 December 1861. The property was later sold to J. A. Ousley & Bro. Walburg sold the plantation to Calvin W Steagall and James W Lathrop. For a number of years it was known as the Steagall Place].

These black people knew little of farming - only to grow rice - consequently their owners were having a difficult time feeding them. A peck of corn or peas were given them for a week's rations, and they roamed the woods "seeking what they might devour": cows, hogs, and sheep. 

Gopher holes were raided far and near and afforded them food which they would not have otherwise had. Although the river and lakes were plentifully supplied with fish, but to leave their homes without a pass from their owners, or overseers was disobedience to the laws in the effort to control them.

Bands of white men who called Patrols were constantly on the watch and if a slave was found without a "pass" (a slip of paper with the owner's name) he was whipped, sometimes unmercifully. [Some of these whippings] was very unnecessary. After these slaves were freed they roamed that country. They finally drifted back to the rice plantations from whence they came, to the great relief of the local citizens. For many of them, their speech was also broken and it was difficult to understand them.

[NOTE: Due to the level of detail of the map that was created, it cannot be view directly on this site, but has to be linked to from here. The map can be found here]. 

A Detailed Description of Valdosta Circa 1863:

Going back to the survey of the town...

There were ten store buildings on Patterson Street, Mr. Sim Smith had the largest on the Yearty Drug Store corner [NOTE: 136 North Patterson Street. M M Yearty & Co. Drugs]. Then where C. C. Varnedoe & Co. are was a two story unfinished building [NOTE: 134 North Patterson Street].  Then a small store where Mr. Andy Pendleton later began his business career. Then on the alley across from the Girardin & Thompson Jewelry Store [NOTE: 120 North Patterson Street], was a was a small office building of two rooms [NOTE: 116-118 North Patterson Street]. Dr. Briggs and Rambo had their office in the back. In the front room they had a very small stock of drugs. Where young people frequent the drug stores for drinks, chewing gum and ice cream in these modern days all this wartime drug store could produce was several jars of cinnamon bark. John Rambo, the doctor's son, carried the bark around in his pockets and gave freely to the girls.

Two more stores were on this side of the street; one of these was Tom Griffin's, on the corner of Patterson and Hill Avenue where the first National Bank is located [NOTE: 100 North Patterson Street]. Across the street where the Kress store is, [NOTE: 105-107 North Patterson Street] was a small two story building, the second story was used by Mr. Wilson Boyd, and later by Mr. Jim Hunt as a picture gallery. Mr. Wilson Boyd made the first tin-types in Valdosta as far back as 1865. Then the next buildings were two small shops, then came a large frame store on the alley across from where the T. M. Vinson Drug Stores [NOTE: 121-123 North Patterson] once was. The Butler family [NOTE: Worthington Chauncey Butler], of Savannah, used this store as a temporary home, using their carpets to partition off the rooms. There were two more stores between the alley-way and Central Avenue. Then there were two more stores between the alley way and Central Avenue. They were about the middle of the block. Messrs. J. O. and C. C. Varnedoe was in business in one of those stores a few years after the war.

On Ashley Street there were three store buildings on the East side. Mr. Josh Griffin owned the store on the corner of Ashley and Hill [NOTE: 101 North Ashley Street], the other two opened as barrooms just after the war [NOTE: These two would be a building that had been operated by William Y. Hill and James W. Patterson as a bar at sometime before 1863 when the property was sold. It was located at 119-125 North Ashley Street. The second bar room was one operated by Simeon B. Lester. It was located at 115-117 North Ashley Street. The building burnt down 18 January 1886]. On the west side, were two buildings. In one Mr. Tom Crawford opened a harness store in 1865. The other was used by the Caldwell and Parson families as a home [NOTE: Deed records and newspapers indicate these buildings were at 112-114 North Ashley Street, and fairly close to one another. Thomas Crawford and his father Mathew Crawford owned the property where both of these buildings were. The Caldwell family appears to that of John Caldwell. John's daughter Mary Ann Caldwell married Leonard C . Harrington. Another daughter Sarah C. Caldwell married Louis Cook, son of Thomas Mason Cook Sr. The Parson family cannot be identified].

Then on Hill Avenue between what is now Friedlander's [NOTE: 101 North Patterson Street] and Nettler's [NOTE: 100 North Ashley Street] was another store as well as I can remember it was about where the alley is now back of these two stores.

There were not any stores open from 1863 to 1865. How long before, they closed, I never heard. Mr. Tom Griffin's on the corner of Patterson and Hill Avenue was one of the meeting places for the old men of the town and county. If some trader was fortunately lucky to run the blockade to Nassau the people could get a few articles from Mr. Griffin's store. A calico dress, $50.00. A paper of pins, $10.00. A paper, of needles $75.00. A a spool of thread $15.00. But finally the Southern waters were so closely blockaded by Federal gunboats, the people could not even even get these small articles. (This was "Confederate money").

Needles were soon so scarce that any lady fortunate enough to have a several needles, they were put under lock and key, for safety. It was a common circumstance for several to use the same needles. I remember a spool of thread a young lady was using for fine needle work disappeared. A servant had passed through the room. The girl reporter her loss with tears. It was of so much importance she could not replaces it. The man of the house and other members of the family gathered in. The servant denied the charge. A a light tap on the side of her face, sent the spool from her mouth, where she it had concealed, across the room.

There are so many things you get for a few cents now that you could not buy. Among them was soap and starch. Toilet soap was unknown. Lye soap, both hard and soft, were used for all purposes. Every home had ash hoppers somewhere in their back premises. There all the hardwood ashes were put. The drippings from the ashes were saved in large vats. When the hogs were killed all the grease not used for lard was combined with the drippings or lye and boiled into soap. Ladies did not have cosmetics either. "Lily-white," a hard cake of powder was carefully kept and sparingly used to dim the glassy shine caused by the soap. Only a few had this, others used meal brand for cleansing purposes. Rouge was not used at any time by the best class of people.

The Depot was in the woods [NOTE: The Atlantic & Gulf depot was just north of Savannah Avenue, between Ashley Street and Patterson Street]. These extended all the way on that side of Hill Avenue to where the Gainey's home is located [NOTE: W. H Gainey lived at 101 South Forrest Street. It was located at the southeast corner of Forrest Street and West Hill Avenue]. There was a field and some cabins there. Some where in this part of town was a large two story house where the Stuart and Downs families made their home. They were refugees from Darien. Seemingly to me it was in Forrest Street near Railroad [NOTE: This house was possibly the two-story house located at 608 East Savannah Avenue. Both of the families were from St. Marys, GA instead of Darien, GA].

Hill Avenue was only a road through this section of the village.  On the North side of Hill Avenue going West were not any buildings until you came to the corner of Troup Street and Hill Avenue, where Mr. Joe Stump Jr's old home is located [NOTE: 320 East Hill Avenue. The house has been demolished. It was on the northwest corner of East Hill Avenue and North Troup Street]. There was a small cottage on this corner; the Ehrlich family came there near the close of the war, refugeed from Savannah. A cottage next to them was the home of Mrs. Henry Ehrlich of this same family. A few doors up the street was an unfinished cottage. Mr. Tom Crawford came in possession of it and improved it in every way, and the older citizens remember that it was his home for a number of years [NOTE: 308 East Hill Avenue. The house has been demolished].

I do not remember very much of the corner of Lee and Hill. It seems to me that there was an unfinished cottage there. It was then the property of Mr. Josh Griffin, father of Mr. Newton Griffin. He owned this block. Crossing the street, brings us to the store that was remodeled into the first Presbyterian Church in Valdosta. This was the second Church building in town. This was converted into a Church in 1866. It was on the lot, second door from Lee Street, facing Hill Avenue. 

Going back to Forest Street, there was only one home between this street and Troup Street. This was the home of Mr. Willis Allen, father of Mrs. Tom McKey, Sr. Allen was the depot agent and may have been the first one when the Depot was established. This home passed in possession of Mr. Owen Smith, grandfather of Mr. Dave Smith, Mrs. O. K. Jones, and Mrs. Shaw. He came from the Cat Creek neighborhood, lived to be near a hundred years old. He has a number of descendants around Valdosta. The home was centrally located between what is now Pine Street and Forest. Pine Street was not open. Forest Street was a public road to the country. All back of this home was fields.

The next home from the Allens, on Troup Street, facing Central, is now owned by Mrs. L. J. Jackson [NOTE: Mrs. Susie Smith Jackson, widow of Landon J. Jackson]. The first family that I remember living there was a Physician Dr. Parramore. He came sometime in 1864 [NOTE: Dr. Henry Jones Parramore. The house was located at 201 North Troup Street. More or less where the Valdosta Daily Times building has been since the 1950s], and was a resident some years, practiced with Dr. Briggs and Rambo. This home is one of the old houses in Valdosta. Going out Troup Street, the next place on the corner of what is now Magnolia and Troup was a cottage The Ricks family of Rome lived here. They were refugees, lived there latter part of 1863. On the corner of what is now Rogers Street and Troup was another unfinished house. Rogers Street was not established, was fields.

The only houses on the Misses Myddleton place was a small log cabin. Miss Sallie Lester and brothers improved the property after they came in 1865. [NOTE: This house is still in existence as of January 2019]. This was the last house on this side of the street, but a road going out to the public road going to Cat Creek was used by a great many for convenience. This was all unbroken woods after leaving the last home. Over on the other [west] side of [Troup] Street was only two homes. The Morgan home was the first house built on the street. The first name of street was Morgan Street. Some little controversy between one of the family caused the city to change the name to Troup after Governor Troup. [NOTE: The controversy was between Charles S. Morgan, who was a lawyer like his father, and the city. The entire dispute was publicized in The Valdosta Times in February 1882. It centered upon where the boundary of the Morgan lot was and the city opening up a road on Morgan property. William L. Morgan had purchased the property from James W. Patterson. As everybody who was directly involved in marking the property line was deceased by 1882, the exact line was unclear]. Colonel Morgan was a lawyer of fine ability. They moved from the locality known as "Morgan Spring" out near the river where you cross going to Troupville. Colonel Morgan and Dr. Ellis, grandfather of Miss Leila, Freddie Ellis, and others, were the first two buried in Sunset  Cemetery.

The next home on Troup Street was that of Colonel Richard Peoples. He was the father of Henry and Charlie Peeples, Mrs. A. A. Parrish, Sr., Mrs. Charlie Pendelton of Macon, Walter and Alec Peeples, Mrs. Yancy Fry, Mrs. Fannie Patterson, and Cincinnatus Peeples of Jacksonville.. Only three of this family are living.

There were no houses on Troup Street between Central Avenue and Railroad, which was the terminal to all streets except Patterson Street. It crossed railroad was graded to Duke's Bay. 

On Central Avenue in the vicinity of Dr. James Smith's former home was the home of Mr. Sim Smith, Jr, father of the late Mr. Tom Smith, Mrs. L. J. Jackson and Mrs. (Dr.) James Smith, Sr. The home was destroyed by fire the early '70's. It was one of the most attractive homes in Valdosta. It was a large two story house, set far back from the street. In front, and to each side was a garden of old fashioned flowers and shrubbery. The next home was the Dickson residence, known in later years as the "John Parramore place." Mrs. Dickson was a refugee and sister of the late Mrs. R. C. Peeples, Sr. Next house on the street, on what is now the Post Office corner [NOTE: The Post Office referred to by Thannie Wisenbaker was the Federal Courthouse and Post Office that is currently Valdosta City Hall and located at the northwest corner of Central Avenue and Lee Street] was the home of the Funderburks; known later the the "Booker home." A good sized woodshop was next. that Mr. Funderburk repaired wagons and farm implements. This brings us back to the courthouse on the corner of Central and Ashley Streets.

On the opposite side of [the] street, was Mr. Josh Griffin's [NOTE: 303 East Central Avenue] and the Hotel, the only two houses from Troup Street to Patterson Street. Mr. Newton Griffin still resides on the "old home site."

After crossing Patterson Street and the stores on Central Avenue was another wood shop, known in later years as Mr. Holder's place of business. Then the blacksmith shop  known later as Mr. "Tom Palin's" [NOTE: About 115-117 West Central Avenue. The shop was destroyed by fire on 6 March 1896].

Then across Toombs was the home of Mr. Tom Griffin, which is still standing as a pattern of the old fashion houses. [NOTE: 203 West Central Avenue, it was moved to 1404 Iola Drive at some point in the 1920 to 1930s]. So many were built alike around Valdosta. Going west from Mr. Griffin's was another unfinished house. There was still one other on the corner of Stephens Street and Central Avenue. The home that was torn down at the back of the Bird Hospital [NOTE: 301 West Central Avenue. Currently owned by the Lowndes County Historical Society & Museum], known in later years as the Dr. Burton place. 

Then came Captain Moses Smith's home, now the Dalton place, then Captain Henry Brigg's home, where Mrs. Audrey Jones, resides and owns [NOTE: In 1900 William Henry Briggs lived at 307/309 West Central Avenue, which Sanborn Fire Insurance maps show having a wrap-around porch. His son, James Monroe Briggs, in 1900 was living at a 305 West Central Avenue. Sanborn Fire Insurance maps show that house to fit the standard description of what is commonly considered to be the Henry Briggs house. Sanborn Fire Insurance maps show 305 West Central Avenue to have originally been about where the old Carnegie Library (the current Lowndes County Historical Society & Museum) is. From the 1890s to the 1910s 305 West Central Avenue was the first house on the 300 block of Central Avenue and 307/309 was the second house on the block. The 1885 bird's eye view map of Valdosta shows a house bearing a very strong resemblance to the "Henry Briggs house" as being the second house on the block. Lotta E Jones and her sister Audrey Jones were at the residence of 309 West Central Avenue by 1921. By that time period the Carnegie Library had been built (305 West Central Avenue) and the "Henry Briggs" house was at 307 West Central Avenue. In the 1922 Sanborn Fire Insurance map, there is no sign of the house that had been at old 307/309 West Central Avenue. The house that Audrey Jones was living in by 1921 would have to have been heavily renovated to be the same structure at old 307/309 West Central Avenue. To further complicate the matter, William Henry Briggs moved into the Moses Smith home in January 1882]. 

[Below is a photo of the "Henry Briggs home" in the mid-20th century. It was demolished some time after 1966]

The next home was near what is now Varnedoe Street on Central Avenue was the Ralston home [NOTE: Alexander Russell Ralston lived at approximately 401-403 West Central Ave], then the William Wisenbaker place, now known as the John T. Roberts home. All back of these homes were fields -not any streets in that part of town except River Street and Central Avenue.

Mr. Wisenbaker was gone when we came in the last part of 1863. Mr. Peacock and family refugeed from Mississippi.  He was a retired Presbyterian minister. They returned to Mississippi in the fall 1865. While in Valdosta they lived at the Roberts place. The Federal gunboats were bombarding  Vicksburg when they refugeed to south Georgia..

Going back Central Avenue the Institute was the first building. It was in an unfinished condition The next building was a livery stable, in the center of the block where the A. A. Parrish business house is located. [NOTE: A. A. Parrish & Co. was located at 116-118 West Central Avenue. The building is still in existence].

On the block facing Patterson on the present courthouse square were three office buildings. The one on [the] corner, Colonel William Dasher was using as a law office [NOTE: Dasher's law office was used as the office for the Court of Ordinary in the late 1860s when the courthouse was being replaced. His law office was destroyed by fire on 5 October 1869 along with many of the probate records for the county]. There were several rooms in the next building. Colonel Peeples, Baker & Bro. used for their law offices. The other was [the] Post office.

Ashley and Valley Streets formed a corner, as this was the terminal of these two streets. A part of Mr. Henry Boone's property, a greater part of Mr. Griffith's and a small part of Mr. John Parramore's place in Lee Street and extending to what is now Valley was a large pond. This was in the fields that extended over this part of town [NOTE: This area is the parking lot for the modern Lowndes County Courthouse and the City Hall Annex].

Between what is now Ashley Street and the corner of Patterson, about the center facing Valley Street was the Baptist Church. It was not finished for use until the early part of 1865. Soon after is was blown down in a storm. The timbers and lumber were piled up for several years and was utilized in the new Church on Central Avenue. It is now the home of the Primitive Baptist congregation [NOTE: The church was located 315 East Central Avenue, and is currently the Pentecostal House of Prayer].

Going on Valley Street on the corner of Patterson Street, near the Baptist Church, was a small office building. Dr. Walker and family lived there. Crossing Patterson Street going West was where Mr. Will Converse made his home. He remodeled the home. [NOTE: 300 North Patterson Street. It should read later where Mr. Will Converse later made his home. William L. Converse was only born in 1857. The house as is mentioned later was the home of John W O'Neal]. The next building was a small two room home with out buildings. This was where the "Telephone Exchange" is located. 

The Jarmon family of Rome, refugees lived there. Then the home of Mrs. Tompey Roberts [NOTE: Mrs. Harriet Eliza “Hattie” Zeigler Roberds widow of Reuben Thompson Roberds], mother of Mrs. Mamie Collins, and is still the family home, this is one of the old houses. Major Bessent and family were living there when we came, and was there for several years. They were refugees from Charleston. They moved first to St. Mary's, to escape bombardment by Federal gunboats, they came to Valdosta [NOTE: In 1860, the family was already living in St. Mary's].

River Street, apparently, was a popular residential street. The house on the lot where Mr. A. A. Parrish [NOTE: This house was located at 308 River Street at what is currently (January 2019) the River Street entrance for the Greyhound Bus Station] bought and improved, set far back from the street. The Boston family lived there with their aunt, Miss Henrietta Goldwire. [NOTE: Thomas M. Boston married Rebecca Goldwire. They had seven children, who lived with their aunt after they were orphaned.] She was sister of Rev. William Goldwire and Mr. James Goldwire who lived in the next home [NOTE: 314 River Street]. He was the Postmaster for the town and county. Everybody came to town for their mail. He was the father of Mrs. Remer Young, 2nd., and Mrs. Josh Moore, the mother of Mrs. Charlie Sinclair, and Mr. John Goldwire who was killed in the first battle of Manassas. Captain Patterson and Lieutenant. Henry Moore were killed in the same battle. This house is now known as the home of Mrs. Mattie Stevens. Mr. Golden Stevens, Sr. remodeled the house after it came in his possession [NOTE: 314 River Street has been demolished since the time Thannie Wisenbaker was writing]. The John M. Harvey house now stands where the Goldwire-Stevens house once stood]. 

[Below is a photo of the Goldwire-Stevens house in later years after it had been remodeled]

This brings us to the "Liles home." It was on the lot where Mrs. Jim Hunt Sr, now resides. The home was torn down to make room for the modern home of Mrs. Hunt. Mr. Lang, Sr., father of Dr. George Lang, was living. They were refugees from Camden County. [NOTE: Andrew Jackson Liles and his family were not refugees from Camden County. Andrew Jackson Liles was born in Wayne County near the Mount Pleasant community. He had moved to what is now Lakeland, Georgia in the 1850s and married into the Carroll family. His wife died in 1855 and he then married Virginia Ellis, a daughter of Dr. Thomas Ellis. The Hunt house at 402 River Street still exists]. 

Then the home next to Mr. Tant [NOTE: George Washington Tant lived at 408 River Street] that is back from the street, was the home of Mr. Sam Myddleton, Sr. The next was home of Mrs. Myddleton, Sr. and her daughters, Misses Margaret and Sallie Myddleton, and Mr. Ezra Myddleton, it is now known as the home Mrs. Robert Myddleton and her daughter, Miss Mary Myddleton. This residence was remodeled.

Then the home where Colonel Gordon Cranford lives [NOTE: 418 River Street] was just a cottage with an old  fashion stoop. So many were built with this style of porch. This was the last residence on the street. Somewhere near what is now West Street were the quarters for the slaves. A number of cabins were there.

Jackson Street was open to Brevity. It was not named at that time. It was just a pathway from Jackson Street to Magnolia Street. There were four small houses on Jackson Street. Mr. Senterfit lived at what is now Mrs. C. C. Varnedoe's home. This house was he rebuilt it [NOTE: 310 Jackson Street, now 310 J. L. Lomax Street. It has been demolished]. He was the father of Mrs. Sim Harrell on North Patterson Street. (She was Betty Senterfit, a pupil in the Varnedoe School). 

Magnolia and Toombs cornered at what is now the crossing of these streets. It was the terminal of both. The first house on Magnolia Street, the family who owned it left in 1865. Captain Ben Moseley moved to town and live there. Then Dr. Lucius Frink. [NOTE: The family that left was that of Marmaduke Duncan Brown who worked for the Confederate government and was from Savannah, Georgia].

Oak Street was only a lane to the canal. Going out Magnolia, Mrs. Daniel [NOTE: This is Mary Daniel, the then wife soon to be widow of Elisha Daniel. She later married William Lofton] was on the corner of Magnolia and now Oak Street. The next was the residence was of Mrs. Ellis, Sr and her daughters, Mrs. Cashen and family and Miss Lizzie Ellis.

Next the home of Captain Henry Smith, I have been told that the street received its name from the magnolias at this place. Crossing so the corner of what was the ball park [NOTE:  Magnolia Park was bound by York Street, Johnson Street, Canal Street, and Magnolia Ave] was a large roughly built house. This was the last house on this street. All beyond this was woods. 

Magnolia was the highway to the cemetery. Out what is now Johnson Street, this was a country road to the Berry Jones plantation, the Converse farm, and to the water mill where the corn for the town and the surrounding country was ground into meal. This mill was the property of Mr. Albert Converse, Sr. It was near the place where the Southern Railroad crosses the stream, the "Mile branch."

Going back to West Hill Avenue there were not many buildings on this end of the street. The first was a small office building back of Mr. Tom Griffin's store [NOTE: 100 North Patterson Street], on the corner of what is now the alley. Then where Mr. Benjamin Bentley lived, this was a small cottage built by Mr. George Roberts, father of Mrs. Tom Scruggs [NOTE: Florence Elizabeth Roberts] and Mrs. Georgia Haines, in the early days of Valdosta. It burned, after it came in of Mr. Bentley's possession [NOTE: Benjamin W. Bentley's home burned in April 1882].

The next, was on the corner of Hill and Stephens Street. I have been told that one of the first families who lived there were Mr. and Mrs. Gay. Mr. Gay was blockade runner out of Savannah. The next family were the Jacksons from Savannah. Mr. Jackson was also a blockader [NOTE: Deed records indicate that this was the family of Francis Leoncio Gue and Maria Estefania Oliveros of Savannah. They were both originally from Florida and of Spanish descent. Francis Leoncio Gue was a member of the Georgia state legislature from 1863 to 1865 and was part of military committee charged with the protection of the Savannah river channel. The Jackson family cannot be identified].

There were not any more houses until you reached the Renfroe place. There was a small cottage far back from the street. This was the last house. [NOTE: William P. Renfroe lived at 604 West Hill Avenue. That is the northwest corner of West Hill Avenue and Wells Street. The Renfroe family came to Valdosta in the early 1880s]. This made three dwellings and one office building on this side of [the] street, just  fields, some were planted, others were grown over with weeds and dog fennels. Hill Avenue was just a road, only on the first and second blocks from Patterson Street.

On the south side were two small dwellings near what is now the home of the Misses McKey [NOTE: Lilian and Alva McKey lived at 513 West Hill Avenue. This is close to the intersection of Wells Street and Hill Avenue]. Down opposite what is now Varnedoe Street was some cabins. This was all the buildings on the south side of Hill Avenue (West). 

Only two buildings were on Toombs Street between [the] railroad and Magnolia. The DeLyon home was just back of the "Christian Church " [NOTE: The First Christian Church was at 126 West Hill Avenue before it was demolished in 1956]. Across Central Avenue and Valley Street was another home somewhere near Mr. John Harris lives. It maybe there yet but remodeled.. Toombs ended at Magnolia [NOTE: John R. Harris lived at about 307/309 North Toombs Street. The house  demolished some time after 1967. It was originally built for the family of Susan Daniels Tucker the widow of Jason Tucker].

Going south from Hill Avenue on Patterson Street, the section to the Railroad and from Patterson Street to Toombs Street was a vacant lot. It was there that the Federal Barracks was located, more of this later on.

Crossing the railroad, where the Patterson Hotel and business houses are [NOTE: located at 200-200 South Patterson Street. It was demolished after 1959]. were vacant lots. Very few houses  on South Patterson Street. 

The home where Mr. Remer Lane lived for a number of years - on this lot - was the location the home of Mrs. Bryant. She was a soldier's widow. The house was very near centrally located between Patterson and Toombs Streets. [NOTE: This is Fannie E. Bryan. She was the widow of Troup A. A. Bryan. The Remer Lane house was at 302 South Patterson Street]. She moved to Qutiman after the war. Mr. J. A. Dasher, the father of Mr. Alec and Miss Eugie Dasher - improved this property - built the dwelling known as the "Remer Lane home." Mrs. Ihley, Mrs. Darnell and other members of the family lived there in the fall of 1865 - came from Effingham County, and made this their home for several years. 

On the corner of the next street, Mr. Gus Lane resided in 1864. Back of it was another cottage in which Mr. Thompson Peeples lived. Across from this home was the dwelling known as the Waldhauer property in later on. This street is now the entrance for the Southern trains to the city [NOTE: Florida Avenue]. The Depot is on the corner where Mr. Gus lane resided for several years. 

Further down the street was another cottage known as the "Blue place." [NOTE: William A Blue and his wife Mary Jane lived at the northwest corner of South Patterson Street and modern Martin Luther King Jr Street. The blue family came to the area in the 1870s] There were some cabins near the bay. Mrs. Riley's house was on the other side of the street - near the A.C.L. Depot - and perhaps one or two others was all the buildings on this side of the street, may have been cabins further out.

This very near ends [the] survey of the town. On Savannah Avenue was a two story house near Toombs Street. On the west end of what is now Crane Avenue were two houses, one was Mrs. Lott's. They came to Valdosta in 1860 and built their home in the woods. Mr. Lott did not live, but a few years after moving to Valdosta. They were from South Carolina. [NOTE: Jesse S. Lott and his wife Caroline G. were in Brooks County, GA at the time of the 1860 census. They were both born in South Carolina. Jesse S. Lott was a millwright]. 

Mr. Nat Hewett lived not a great ways from Mrs. Lott's. He did the brick work for the town.

Just across from what is now the city water works, across railroads on what is now Savannah Avenue, was a small dwelling known as the "Smokehouse" Allen place. Messrs. Isiah and Ben Seckinger built this house. They were well known in the Mt Zion neighborhood. I was told Sylvester Manning live there in 1861. He was another blockade runner from Savannah. The Starling family were the next inmates, had two sons in the war. Mr. Allen moved there in 1865. How he came by the name "Smokehouse Allen" He was been connected with the Government Commissary at Thomasville.

The town was well scattered, but showed a wonderful beginning. Labor was plentiful. Among the slaves were carpenters, shoemakers, and nearly every farm or plantation had their own blacksmith shop where the farm implements were repaired by some old colored man.

Churches and Culture During the Civil War:

A towns is judged by its churches, and while they had only one Church building, in an was unfinished condition. As I look backward and recall that those good old folks who represented the rank and file of Christianity of that day. The people were all churchgoers, and the courthouse served their purpose. It was a building "four-square" where religious services were conducted there each "Lord's Day," morning and evening. Dr. Graves, whose home was in Quitman, looked after the Presbyterian flock; Mr. Newt Ousley, Parson Wilkins, and Major Bessent after the Methodists. Mr. Fred Ellis for awhile he moved to Key West about this time. All services were union.

Mr. William Goldwire was the Baptist preacher after the Church was made ready so services could be conducted. Only a few times when it was destroyed in the storm. Mr. Goldwire was an uncle of Rev. William Scruggs, a well known Baptist preacher of Waycross.

The town was well supplied with lawyers. There were five in the village: Major Bessent, Colonel Richard Peeples, Colonel Baker & Bro, and Colonel William Dasher. Colonel Baker & Dasher were bachelors and were very popular in society as all the young men were in the army.

I remember that on one occasion two young ladies were visiting friends. There was not any amusements at that time. There was not any evening papers or telephone to announces their arrival, so they prevailed upon their hostess to allow them to roll the piano to the front porch. They were fine musicians and sang well; and in a short time the two Colonels made their appearance. They were the only available beaus, and as they had good voices, joined in the patriotic singing and old sentimental songs. The girls were well pleased with their maneuvers as they had a very pleasant evening.

Music was really appreciated in those days; There was not any ragtime or jazz. Only a few people had pianos. I can remember only seven. One or two melodeons were in town.

The DeLyons were from Charleston [NOTE: Once more the DeLyons were from Savannah with their maternal grandparents from Charleston]. Their home was back of what is now the First Christian Church. It was torn down to make room for the dwelling of Mr. John Campbell erected. It, in turn, has been removed. The old "brass knocker" on the front door attracted passers by. It was brought from France. This home was a gathering place for all the young people of the town [NOTE: A lot of this information conflicts with property records and newspaper articles from the time period. The house was about at 107 North Toombs Street and demolished in 1894 to make way for the fire station that was to be built on that lot]. That included all. There were not any lines drawn in those days. A great bond of sympathy united the people both young and old.

Mothers and daughters, and all young people, would gather around the piano and sing the songs of the Confederacy, and the songs of long ago, many of them are never heard and have passed into oblivion with those who sang them in the primitive days of Valdosta.

A great source of pleasure to the young people were the candy pullings that began with the sugar boilings, which were real everybody who planted cane, made two or tree barrels of sugar for their own and so divided with their neighbors who were in need.

Clothing During the Civil War:

The girls wore homespun dresses. The young boy clothes were of the same material. To see the people going to Church on Sunday morning dressed in their "preserved" clothes. On their return to their homes these were carefully folded and put away from light and air; not know how they would ever replace them.They were handled like pieces of fine old China. 

Old silk dresses were turned, and made over, and sometimes, "my-lady" looked as she was going to a "tacky" party. They gathered together the bits of old finery that in the old days were always laid aside and finally given to some old black mammy, but now they were pressed and cleaned, and were utilized for some young lady in the family.

Economy was a study, As the war went on, shoes were an item, and those who had the morocco or cloth gaiters treated them as they did their clothes, but just walking in them to Church. They were wearing out. Leather was being shipped from the tanneries to factories to be made into shoes for soldiers, and so the town people had to resort to anything they could utilize into shoes. Rag bags, old trunks, and other receptacles were searched for rolls of brown linen, scraps of red jeans, and anything that was strong enough for wear was being made into hoses. Saddles were even robbed of their skirts, for soles.

Think how a young girl would appear now with a blue French linen, which was handed down from better days. Home knit hose (white), and red jean shoes with the ties of old braid.

There were several colored shoemakers; some were cobblers. Mrs. Rebecca Jones, the grandmother of Judge Will Thomas, owned a shoemaker, who went from house to house and made the shoes for the families. He was considered the best workman in town. 

Hats were dreams. All the old bits of ribbons and flowers, that had been put aside, were brought out and were used to adorn the hats. Some were made over. Others were braided of palmetto.

One costume I remember was a skirt of wine-colored goods (old material)  it had large yellow palms scattered over it. A "paletot" faded black alpaca, the seams corded with green, a hat of palmetto - dyed black with gallberry dye, a little piece of black velvet ribbon gathered up with old grasses and flowers few were the trimmings.

One morning the lady who owned this costume was out in her back premises. On her return to the house, she saw something under her back steps. When she investigated she found it to be her cherished dress. A servant had been stolen it and wore to a colored ball on the night before. The lad felt as if she was ruined, and could not replace it. But she proceeded to card and spin wool. And after dying the wool grey from roots she gathered in the woods, she wove and made herself a dress that was admired by every one. She was very proud of her achievement.

A young lady who came from a large city, had a dark blue dress made with a coal. Military style, with with gilt-braid and brass buttons. She was not in the village but a few days before the dress went the rounds, to get the pattern. A few Sundays later there were a good many costumes of old silk, homespun and other old materials, all made by this dress.

Education During the Civil War:

It has always been impolite to stare, but it was indulged in freely at that time It was most by among the younger generation. There were so many strangers, It was such a mixed multitude, they could not grasp the situation.

Those who were pioneer citizens of Valdosta, historic circumstances enabled some of these people to forge ahead, as soon as opportunity came. A greater part,  stood together to build up, both spiritually and educationally, and to give civilization a chance to advance. They were ambitious that the younger generation have every educational advantage a long the few lines of education that so many of the schoolmasters of that  day could give. 

To judge by the progress of the children in the schools, the transient children attended the schools and ranked about the same in progress, with the exception of music. In this the young folks from the cities, who were refugees, were more proficient. Not a great number of books could be procured. Many of the schoolmasters could have taught the different languages, but could not get books of the same make, that were necessary.

Before the war many of the boys and girls had been sent to different colleges by stagecoach, and as many planters owned carriages and horses these young people were sent to the higher places of learning.

The books that were used in the schools and to a great many of the "old school" constituted an education were: 

• Town's Readers

• Webster's Blue Book Speller (first book taken up when you entered school; last one put down when your school days were over)

• Smith's Grammar and Arithmetic

• Mitchell's Geographies

• Webster's Dictionary and Definer, and Writing (and writing this last named was very important in these schools).

The teachers prided themselves upon the copies the would set. The copy books were made at home of any kind of paper that could be used. Great care was taken in the position and how the pen was held. A blotted copy book was held up before the school. 

In those days the rules of the school must be obeyed. The least-rule broken they stayed in after school, and sometimes darkness was gathering before they were dismissed. Parents upheld the laws of the school, and very often the child who was punished at school, received a second punishment on reaching home.

Children walked into school, sometimes three or four miles, some rode, but the greater number walked, leaving home at sunrise and returning often when the stars were shining.

A  gentleman who is now resident of Valdosta, whose home for a great many years was about 50 miles way, his mother was a lady of refinement and culture. When she was a young girl, their home was far from city or town, Savannah being the nearest. She and her sisters were sent to LaGrange by carriage to college [NOTE: LaGrange Female Institute/LaGrange Female College the forerunner to modern LaGrange College], a piano was sent through the country to their boarding place so they could have the use of it for practice, and there would be not difficulty in the way of their education, along this line.

From one branch of this family, came a lady who has been prominent leader in the  Women's Club of Georgia. From still another branch several lawyers have stood high in the legal ranks, in the Legislature of the state, prominently known churchmen.

I was told Professor Harrington was one of the first school teachers in Valdosta [and] closed his school in 1863, a few months before we came. [NOTE: Leonard C. Harrington was living in Carrolton, Georgia at the time of the 1860 census. He purchased a house and lot near the school in February 1861 from Benjamin Seckinger. He sold this house and lot the Ralston family in July 1863. The Ralston home mentioned earlier in the narrative was previously the home of Leonard C. Harrington. Leonard C. Harrington was married to Mary Ann Caldwell, who lived for decades in Atlanta as a widow].

In the fall of 1863, Professor Newton was the teacher in charge. School began at 7:30 in the morning in summer, 8:00 o'clock the winter. Darkness hovered a great many times when school was dismissed. 

Lincoln did not have anything on the children of that day as to light. In winter we studied by a lightwood knot-fire, which more desirable than a tallow candle, or a "hussey" which was plaited rags in melted tallow in an old saucer or any kind of vessel. they could get A few people owned lard lamps, we among the number. They were not satisfactory study.

Mr. Newton taught in the Courthouse.  Like all the pedagogues of that day, his first rule was preparation for business, so switches were placed in the corner. These were some of the tools he used to enforce his ideas of instilling, on the minds of his pupils, an education.

Mr. Newton taught through the fall and springtime. Several young men who were home on furlough - were in this school while at home army. They were called into service before their school days were over, and so they were taking advantage of the opportunity to gather a little, of what they had lost.

1864: The Home Guard, The Fall of Atlanta, and Slavery:

In 1864, the people were restless; not knowing what to expect in the way of news from the war.

About this time, a company was formed, under the name "Home Guard." All of the old men and boys of 16 and 17, and if there were soldiers home on furlough they were to be counted in. Soon after this organization took place, the guards were ordered to Thomasville. Some great excitement over there was reported.

Such preparation is getting up everything they would need for the trip. Old muskets, used in the war with the Indians, shotguns and the old pistols, they had on hand, For some of these old guns, the balls were to be molded. The men hurriedly rushed from place to place, every horse and mule was pressed into service. They finally rode off to Thomasville. When they reached the town, everything they could hear was [that] some soldiers' wives had threatened to break in the Government Commissary to obtain food for their hungry children. The guards were badly disappointed, and disgusted. They had failed to meet an imaginary foe.

On the way back, two young men, who were on mischief bent, and to satisfy their "likens" for turkey, went into a farm home and stoled a turkey. After dark they went to the same house and bargained with the lady to have it cooked for them, which she did. They ate the turkey, leaving for home, not paying the price of the bird or having it prepared. They considered it a big joke.

"St. Valentine's Day" - 69 years ago came. A young girl in the village heard of their escapade she decided to send them a Valentine. As the parties have departed this life, I do not think it will matter if names are given that were mentioned in this Valentine:

"Danbone, Danbone, how well you know,

You stole my turkey two weeks ago,

You stole my turkey, here,  take the foot,

You never paid the poor old cook."

A bird's foot was enclosed to represent the turkey's. The Post Office was the gathering place for mail, and as Valentines were handed out they were read and commented on, and a merry crowd enjoyed this happy occasion. Among the crowd was the recipient of the "Turkey Valentine" none enjoyed it more than he. He still thought it a big joke.

The guards were never called out for service after this one time.

Train loads of soldiers were passing through town, their destination, Florida. [NOTE: This is most likely a description of the troop movements preceding the Battle of Olustee that occurred about 66 miles away on 20 February 1864]. The coast towns and avenues of entrance into the state from Southern waters were being closely watched. The Federals were drawing their nets, not able to whip the South, they had employed help from every foreign nationality, in the end claimed the victory.

The enemy was in the state. Here is opened one of History's famous chapters. 

Nearly all the the brave patriots, delighted to speak of the achievements of the men of the South, who dared face death for their country, their cause, and their flag.

The [UNREADABLE] of battle from Chattanooga to Atlanta, with its stirring events was the [UNREADABLE] of the eyes of the civilized world.

Valdosta was now apprehensive that the "Yanks" would find even this secluded spot. The old men huddled in groups together and exchanged the few items of news they had received from the trains and letters from the members of families who were in the army.

Farmers worked early and late to do their bit towards raising supplies. The negro plow guiders worked and yodeled the songs peculiar to their race, and to the South. You never hear it now; they could be traced by their regularity, coming and going, from row to row of their daily task, by their melodies. 

For many years (not now) those old darkies could have sung with "Old Black Joe." The lines "Gone are the day when, when my heart was light and fee." [NOTE: "Old Black Joe" was a song published by Stephen Foster in 1853. The lines Thannie Wisenbaker quotes differ from the published version].

They were clothed fed, and housed. When they were sick, they were cared for - a Doctor was called. They had no responsibility. It is true, there were many who were almost brutal to their slaves - showing the same feeling for their horses, and a great many times their own families.

The colored women spun and wove the clothes, that whole plantation wore, and they sang, as they worked. Cotton was planted, the yield was ginned and housed, and was the foundation for the financial situation. When the war closed, bringing 50 cents a pound, but in return the South, paid 50 cents a yard for their cotton (calico) goods to the Northern markets.

They learned economy by privation, but as soon as the opportunity came they issured [NOTE: no idea what she meant, but that is clearly what is written in the original] out of it and began to bring in Northern trade and in 1869, the first panic [since] 1857 came.

If the South had only lived simply and only bought the few things they needed, she might have hoisted her sails on the high seas of life - a brave and courageous people - as the richest country or part of the U.S.A. 

A lot of the goods, shipped South, was woven from cotton that was the contraband of war, and for which the South should have received payment.

1864: The End of the Civil War and Federal Occupation:

In the fall of 1864, Professor Mathis - a great uncle of Mr. David Smith - opened the school. He had as his assistant Professor DeLyon, a highly educated Frenchman [NOTE: The DeLyon brothers were of Jewish heritage from Savannah]. The Institute had been put in shape so that it could be used, not any sash or shutters. Board were nailed on the inside at the top and left loose [at the] bottom on the outside, and pushed from side to side to give a few rays of light for study.

That was a good school. Mr. Mathis taught most of the English branches and Mr. DeLyon,mathematics and the languages to those who had books. Their school was in session when the war closed in April 1865. They taught through that year (1865).

The news of the assassination of Lincoln was wafted slowly over the Southland. Some received it joyfully, thinking the war would come to a close; which it did. Others with misgivings, what would be the outcome? And for months, they realized the full measure of the humiliation the South was subjected to.

Garrisons of Federal soldiers [were] stationed in all the places of any size. Valdosta had first a white regiment. I never knew very much of them only that all premises were searched for Confederate horses. That were branded with the mark of the Confederacy and taken wherever found.

The Confederate soldiers were straggling in by train, others walking weary, foot store and ragged. Some walked from Virginia, others were in Northern prisons where months after the surrender they were released. Still with all of their privations and cruelty in prison, they were still loyal to Lee, Johnson, and the Confederacy. The "lost cause," not through any mistakes they made as they followed their leaders, but the hoards of foreign masses they had to.

Then came a line of difficulties. That arose from the influence of the men of the garrison over the slaves. All kinds of reports were being circulated; one was the lands and mules were to be confiscated and divided among the slaves. Each family to receive 40 acres and a mule. This caused bitter apprehension [NOTE: General William T. Sherman had discussed the policy land and property redistribution summarized by the phrase "Forty acres and a mule." On 16 January 1865, General Sherman issued Special Field Orders No. 15, which called for the distribution of the Sea Islands property seized by the Federal Government during the course of the war for failure. In the end, presidential and Congressional action led to very little of the confiscated land being distributed to Freedman, and most of it being returned to the pre-confiscation owners of the land after they swore the oath of allegiance]. 

After a few months the white garrison was removed and then a negro garrison with white officers was sent there. All kind of imaginary troubles were reported to headquarters by some of the slaves, not all. A majority of them could see through the thin veneer that to some it might be better times, but to a shiftless wandering freedom from place to place.

One of the things the negro soldiers did to a well-to-do farmer was to tie him up by the thumbs in an old stock car which had never been cleaned after they removed their horses. The old man's toes just touched the floor. He was left there for several hours. When he was taken down, the leather strings had left their mark, and perhaps remained through life.

"The Freedman's Bureau" was an institution established in the Courthouse. This was the headquarters for the "carpetbaggers." The Southern men were tried here, and all kinds of lawlessness were heaped upon a peaceful people.

About this time, some political speaker was scheduled to hold forth in the courthouse. So some of the young men who felt that they had stood about all they could in the way of indignities, proceeded to prepare for a wholesale disaster, but before the culmination the kegs of powder were removed from under the building. 

so made plans for the destruction of the courthouse, carpetbaggers and all.

As many of the best citizens were in the Courthouse to hear what information they could gather as to the intentions of the great "moguls" who were then in power, and so the plans fortunately fell through. That would have plunged the whole section in an irreparable condition. Some of these young men who were at the head of this movement left town but returned later. Nothing was ever done. The last one these boys have lived their lives and are gone. [NOTE: This incident happened on 5 April 1868. Dr. J. W. Cliff, a white Republican candidate for U.S. Congress was the speaker. Those arrested were Iverson Lamar Griffin, Alexander H. Darnell, John Daniel Calhoun, Benjamin L. Smith, and J. J. Rambo. Some newspapers described the attempted terrorist attack as the work of members of the Ku Klux Klan].

[Below are two newspaper articles describing the foiled terrorist attack. The first is from The Public Ledger of Memphis, TN of 6 April 1868 and the second is from The Daily Dispatch of Virginia of 15 April 1868].

The little office building at the back of Mr. Tom Griffin's store on Hill Avenue was the headquarters for the Officers of the garrison. Across the street from Hill Avenue to [the] Railroad, and from Patterson Street to Toombs Street; the whole block was the "Federal Barracks," row after row of tents.

One of the young men of the town reprimanded a colored boy for his lack of duty, was immediately reported, arrested by a file of negro soldiers and put in the back room of the office building, where he was guarded by colored soldiers.

A young lady who was very popular in those days came by and to her astonishment, she was at the point of a bayonet and very arrogantly to "move on." But did she? No, but her reply was, "Stick you black tarbaby."

She turned around and saw the young man in the door, "What are you doing there Dick?" 

His reply was, "They say I choked a darkie and under arrest."

She said "Well I am going home and [will] choke two or three and then they will arrest me too, and as this building belongs to my father, he will just turn them all out and take possession." [NOTE: This was Richard "Dick" Force, the step-brother of Thannie Smith Wisenbaker. These events happened in late 1865/early 1866. The building and lot that it was on was owned by Alexander Russell Ralston].

This whole thing was witnessed by the Captain and Lieutenant, and was very much enjoyed by the former, but the Lieutenant, who was a "black Dutchman" seemed very much incensed at her ready repartie.

A few days after this one will say Dick escaped from [the] back door, ran home, mounted the horse Rex" that he had ridden in the last years of the war, and rode away to liberty. 

The young people of the town were to have a great gathering his home, and his sister wrote him and he came back. That night this same Dutchman came with a file of negro soldiers, shot Dick in front of his home, and in the presence of this large party of friends. He was borne in on a door taken quickly from an out house and carried into the home, where on may 16th 1866 five months after he was wounded he died, wasting away from a poisoned ball.

Excitement ran high, but through the quiet workings of Major Bessent, Mr. Albert Converse, Sr. and others, the young men listened to reason. Major Bessent, the grand old man stood with bowed head - with his silver hairs glistening in the sunlight- he raised his hand and quoted this scripture, "vengeance is mine, saith the Lord. I will repay."

Dick had entered the Confederate Army at the age of fourteen years. He remained to the close of the war, was slightly wounded at Gettysburg, only lost two months from service. He died in the 19th year of his life.

There were several marriages among the white garrisons and girls of families which could be found in all localities. The colored people were prejudiced against this class of people, calling them "poor white trash," priding themselves as being the property of some influential family who did not "'sociate" with such folks. As some of the men they married were officers, they may have entered avenues of social life very much above their former life in their Northern homes. The feelings of the Southern people were so bitter that they could not remain in the South, as they would have been ostracized, so they went North.

In the fall of 1865, an eclipse of the sun, which was total came. There may have been a few who knew of it, it came to others unannounced. It was on, or near midday, as the all of darkness gathered. The different groups who were working on the farm, and those who were at work at the saw mill, came rushing in. Chickens were going to roost, dogs were howling, cow were lowing, and darkies were praying. I guess white folks too. It was a time of doubt and perplexity. We were told by some of the older people what it was. We had heard so much superstitions that it was hard to convince us, but later on when the shadows were passing, we were thrilled that it was not "Judgement Day" as the colored people had whispered around among themselves and we heard them as crowds were gathered in the back premises of the home. [NOTE: The solar eclipse occurred on 19 October 1865].

Valdosta Grows:

At this time there was a large saw mill on the corner where Dr. Little resides [NOTE: 701 North Patterson Street. The house still exists. Northeast corner of North Patterson and North Street]. The road to Cat Creek came very near this location, but not exactly where North Street is now. It made a bend and passed through the woods to what is now the corner Gordon and Ashley Street. In a few months those great towering pines were felled on each side of the avenue and to the Patterson place and soon there were fields to the right and to the left. In a few years corn and cotton were growing in great profusion on this land.

The appearance of this part of the village was completely changed. Cabin after cabin was built to accommodate the mill folks and this became the beginning of "Tom Town."

On the corner of what is now North Street, the home that is the property of Mr. and Mrs. George Feagle is [NOTE: 612 North Patterson Street, the Feagle house is still in existence], was known for many years as the Louise Ward home. This place was the property of Mr. E. V. Johnson [NOTE: Erastus Varner Johnson]. He built only a dining room and kitchen, expecting to build a larger house in front, but - having been desperately ill with typhoid fever - became dissatisfied and moved back to his former home in Bartow County. In the winter of 1865, this property was bought by Frank Ward, for five hundred dollars cash. The money he had made farming for Judge Charlie Wisenbaker after gaining his freedom. This was the first house built on Patterson Street from Central Avenue to the Patterson place, after surrender.

New improvements were being made in all parts of town. Lawyers and doctors hung out their signs. 

The stores were opening, new goods were on display. Later in the year a large frame building was erected on the lot where the where Davis Bros. Clothing Store was located [on the] corner of Hill Avenue and Patterson Street. Messers. Lane, Wisenbaker & Co. had what was called a general store in the lower part of this building. This was not only retail, but wholesale. Everything in the dry goods or grocery line could be found there. [NOTE: This was at 100-102 South Patterson. Southwest corner of Hill Avenue and Patterson Street]. Mr. William Smith an uncle of Mr. Dave Smith open[ed] one of the first stores on Hill Avenue, in a building somewhere near the back of Nettler's [NOTE: 100 North Ashley Street] and Friedlanders [NOTE: 101 North Patterson Street]. People flocked there, and it was very much like a modern bargain sale as to the crowds. 

These were needy people. Where this stock of goods came from, I guess older people knew, but to children it was a general mixture of everything. Mr. Smith was a returned soldier [and] made his home in Valdosta for a good many years.

Messrs. Moore and Young were on the "Sim Smith Corner" [NOTE: southwestern corner of Patterson Street and Central Avenue] until the store next to this was finish for business. Mr. Sim Smith had a large stock of goods there. Captain Ben Moseley was doing business in the store he erected near where the Old Woolworth store was located [NOTE: 124-126 North Patterson Street. Moseley's business along with a good bit of the adjacent buildings burnt down in November 1870]. Several Jews had rented vacant stores and was opened for business.

Health and Physicians:

The town could not boast of its health at that time. Typhoid fever was a constant menace. Nine or ten years later such worthies as Phil Pendleton, Rosa Folks, Tom Young,, and later on, Henry Mallard, Mr. Tom Bacon, and Bessie Parramore, all fine young people,were victims of this disease. The council was now working to try to overcome the conditions, but not until years later, when the ponds and bays were drained, did the health of the town improve.

Two of as fine physicians as could be found in their treatment of fever had their offices in Valdosta. One made his home there and the other in Brooks County. Both had a practice over a different territory. 

Dr. Walker and Briggs - both eccentric in a way. Dr. Briggs was very deaf. A great many judged this had something to do with his peculiar manners. Unfortunately, when his professional services were needed he was hard to find; as he had a practice extending over a large area. Sometimes a day or night would pass before they could get his most excellent service. The only mode of travel were horseback or by buggy - it was hard to cure  the people on short notice - perhaps he was miles away - when most needed.

Dr. Briggs wore his hair long, pushed back behind his ears. To give you an example of his eccentric ways; a gentleman was ill with nervous trouble. Dr. Walker was his physician and knew that it was a hopeless case, but to have Dr. Briggs' opinion. The rivers were high covering the woods and between the two rivers. So to reach the Dr was to drive to the Withlacoochee River cross in  a bateau, go over to the  Little River, use another boat to cross into Brooks County, get a conveyance from the first farm passed and bring the doctor back. This took several hours! When he reached the home of the sick man, before going in to see him. Dr. Briggs called for dinner. Immediately after, went in to see the patient, and made a small examination said, "I am ready to go. I won't be back." They knew it was a hopeless case.

A gentleman, who was a refugee, very ill with typhoid fever, saw Dr. Briggs coming up the avenue said, "old syntax and his gray horse are coming!" Dr. Briggs saved this man, even though he saw him only twice a week, and so many cases could be mentioned.

Dr. Briggs was originally from Massachusetts [and] was the stepfather of Mr. Albert Converse, Sr., [and] the father of Captain Henry Briggs who established "Briggs Hardware Co."

 Captain Henry Briggs was a Confederate solder. Another son of Dr. Briggs was James Briggs Sr. [who] was killed in the service. I never knew what battle [NOTE: James Monroe Briggs was killed at the Battle of the Wilderness in Virginia on 5 May 1864].

Dr. Walker was from Perry, Georgia, and was equally as successful as Dr. Briggs. He made friends of all classes of people [and] would often stay perhaps a day and night to watch the symptoms of a patient. Very often he would remove his shoes, and lie down on a cot for hours by the bed with his hand on the pulse, or lightly over the heart, and then go out of [the] house, climb to the top of [the] building, and sit for an hour or more. He said when asked why he did it, "just to think undisturbed."

Dr. Rambo and son left Valdosta sometime in the latter part of 1865. [They] went back to New York to live, he was a Union man,  but and gentlemanly; not at all aggressive.

Dr. Parramore [NOTE: Dr Henry Jones Parramore] was from Madison, Florida, [and] had married a Northern lady. He was the only surgeon among the physicians. People lived simply in those days; it was not often his services were needed. Occasionally someone broke an arm or leg. He and Dr. Briggs were Richard Force's physicians. The Federal surgeon watches over this case too.

Dr. Walker left Valdosta sometime in 1866, then after Dr. Mathew Rogers came and established his practice, which for many years was very, but few cases of fever [NOTE: Thannie Wisenbaker's chronology seems a bit off here. Dr. Walker left Valdosta sometime after 1870]. 

Freedman Culture:

[NOTE: This section on Freedman culture is taken from a page in the file found after the main manuscript. It is inserted here for thematic convenience].

The events of the fall of 1864 and spring of 1865, were harrowing to the minds of the people of Valdosta. "Looking back to those days that were dark and drear" to the last months of the war when Sherman had begun his famous "March to the Sea" and his hordes had spread like a mantle over a large part of Georgia was punishing the Confederates before him, forging his way to Savannah and South Carolina. It was then the people of Valdosta were apprehensive , the Atlantic and Gulf Railroad that brought civilization in a large sense a few years before, would now bring a of destruction, to bear down and destroy what they had built up - so hopefully, looking to a culmination of their desires to build a city.

I read once in the east, General Grant was the director of General Sherman's movements. When he received what might be called permission from General Grant to carry out his plans.

General Grant was the great "mogul" of the Federal Army.

General Hood of the Confederacy and his tired courage of soldiers were driven like chat before a strong wind. Not many reinforcements to come to their aid. A paid fathered in from every foreign country, like a great machine was trying to crush, and [UNREADABLE] late the Confederacy. They had put forth every effort to hold off distress and uncertainty that was being spread. The entanglement began.

The placing of Freedmen's Bureaus in all the town and cities and the garrison of Federal soldiers, that were sent and were ready to assist the bureau  to keep order in a town that a peace loving people had built.

In January 1866, a new era was beginning. The war clouds were disappearing, the Federal Garrison were disbanded, and Valdosta began an [UNREADABLE]  to one thing tangible in the way of building a city.

New problems were presented daily, one of the most serious was a free incapacitated people - who were here to stay. It was an almost impossible situation, that was thrust upon the country. But little by little, they began to bring the forces to order. Led by men of determination  to create a new order with the changed conditions of master and slave. 

For quite a while, the political situation was strained and a great deal of uneasiness was created by office seekers as they went over the country with their propaganda.

One of the problems of the slave was, the selection of surname, it was amusing to hear the names selected. Many of them took the names of their recent owners. Some went back to past generation of their owners and selected a name. In a great many families each brother took a different name, and with some the longer the name was more desirable. 

I remember that one little colored boy's given name was David De Comfort I Lovely B___. I suppose as Mr. David Comfort, the Presbyterian minister was preaching in Valdosta that the name was suggested from hearing of him.

Education in 1865:

In the late summer of 1865, Colonel Baker, an experienced teacher, at the solicitation of a few young men, taught a class. In this school were: Bob Myddeton, Willis Lang, Wall Ralston, Dick Stapler, Sam Griffin, Thatcher Smith, Dick Force, and perhaps others, I do not now recall - all returned soldiers.

Captain Henry Smith, whose home was on Magnolia Street, organized a school out near the present cotton mill [NOTE: the Strickland Cotton Mill was demolished in 2013 and was located at 30.845830 -83.311561], between the mill and the highway to Troupville. In this school were: Henry Wilson, Tom Burgsteiner and Adrial Wisenbaker, returned soldiers.

I do not remember at what time Miss Sallie Myddleton opened her school - my impression is, it was in 1865 - she taught at home. For a good many years this little school was patronized. It was a primary school and Miss Sallie was a teacher who gave her pupils a thorough understanding of the rudiments of an education. She was of Christian character whose influence in the town was not to be [under estimated]. She stood for the good, the true and the highest.

One of the movements of this time that did a great deal towards the hastening of a new order of events was the coming of Professor S. M. Varnedoe and his regime, establishing a school that was patronized by parents, far and near, who hastened to arrange plans for their children to have the benefit of this school under the supervision of Professor Varnedoe and his assistant teachers, Misses Lilla and Sallie Varnedoe. This was the first school in Valdosta, having three distinct grades: Senior, Intermediate, and Primary.

New Arrivals to Valdosta After the Civil War:

There were not many vacant houses yet, the refugees were slowly getting away to their homes, but a good number remained and made Valdosta their permanent home.

People from the country came in, and every home that would take school girls and boys as boarders, were soon filled up. The fathers in a great many instances would remain on the farm; the mother and children in town from Monday until Friday.

Many homes had boarders, among those were Judge Charles Wisenbaker, at his country home, a short way from town, and Mrs. Jane Smith. These two homes had the greater number. Brooks County had quite a number of young men and girls in the school.

Mrs. Jane Smith vacated her home [NOTE: 305 West Central Avenue, see notes about the Henry Briggs house earlier in the article. She was the widow of Moses Smith Jr] for the accommodation of Professor Varnedoe. Her place was the Old Dalton home next to the Library. Mrs. Smith moved to the Dr. Ashley place on Patterson Street and had with her the Young and McRees. She was a sister of Dr. William and the grandmother of Miss Irene Bacon.

Many families moved to Valdosta at this time and became a part of the substantial combination who were to unite their efforts to build what Valdosta is now called, a "City Beautiful." 

Early in the year, Dr. Robert Thomas, moved in from Thomasville, bringing his family and bought the home on the corner of Stephens Street and Hill Avenue known now as the "Remer Lane Corner" [NOTE: 101 North Stephens is now Oak Street. Both of the houses have been demolished]. Mr. Josh Moore came from his farm in the Ousley District; [and] occupied the Goldwire home on River Street, now (Mrs. Mattie Stevens) [NOTE: 314 River Street].

After the Dickson family had gone back to Savannah, Mr. Noah Parramore came from Thomasville and bought the Dickson place [NOTE: 302 East Central Avenue. Demolished]. Five from this family were in the School. James Parramore, the oldest son, was in the last draft of the Confederacy.

Dr. William Ashley, the father of the late C. R. Ashley, moved from Texas with his family in the fall of 1865, and bought the home on the corner of Troup and what is now Magnolia Street. The family lived there for many years. Dr. Ashley died soon after coming to Valdosta. Mrs. Juliette Ashley was a well known as a music teacher for a number of years [NOTE: 305 North Troup Street. The house was closer to the corner of Troup and Rogers Street].

Major P. C. Pendleton came with his family of young men, boys, and girls, to take advantage of the educational facilities opened up in Valdosta. Four of this family were in the "Confederate" Service. Mr. Pendleton being a Major, Mr. William Pendleton, a Captain, two others Philo and Jimmer were in the last draft of the Confederacy. Eight of his family were in the Varnedoe School. Major Pendleton was originally from Sparta, but came to Valdosta from Tebeauville, a small village on the Atlantic and Gulf Railroad. It is now a part of  Waycross, where the large Coat-Line shops are located, as well as I can remember they were refugees to South Georgia. One of Major Pendleton's life long friends was Bishop George Pierce of the Methodist Episcopal Church - who was prominently known as a preacher of note not only through Georgia, but the Southern States..

Two streets in Waycross were named for Major Pendleton and the Reverend Mr. Tebeau who was a prominent Baptist minister and brother-in-law of Major Pendleton. 

[Note: In the version of the narrative published by Frederick Treutlen Pindar, Mrs. Anna C. Richardson wrote "Actually, Tebeauville was named for F. T. Pindar's grandfather, Frederick Edmund Tebeau, who had stock in several railroads." Frederick Treutlen Pindar was the grandson of Lewis Tebeau].

Mr. Noah Fry came with his family - built his first home facing [the] Railroad, back of what is now the Holder place on the corner of Hill Avenue and Lee Street. The home was in the woods near the "old water tank." He owned all of this block. He built the Fry home on on Hill Avenue, in later years.[NOTE: The latter home was located at 315 East Hill Avenue]. Mr. Fry was supervisor for the old Atlantic and Gulf Railroad, and later when it changed its name to the Plant System. Mr. Fry was from Effingham County.

Mrs. Harriet Ihley with her daughters moved to Valdosta. The only one of this family living, a well known lady - Mrs. Jennie Darnell. They were from Effingham County. Their home was in the path of "Sherman's March to the Sea." Mr. Tom Keller came to the county from Effingham at this time. There were a number of boys and girls in this family some were in the School.

Captain Benjamin Moseley, another officer in the Confederate Army, moved from his plantation in the Ocean Pond Section, [and] built a large frame store, somewhere near the Alley on Patterson Street. He lived on Magnolia, facing Toombs.

After the war, the Rev. Mr. Peacock left for his home in Mississippi. The Mabry family, from Brooks County, and were the next family after the Peacock's to occupy the John T. Roberts home. Later on Captain Jerry Wells owned the place. He and the family were from Berrien County. I suppose that was the beginning of Wells Street. There might have been a lane through there Mr. Wisenbaker or for others accommodation. An outlet to the plantation.

Mr. Solomon Smith and his family, Mr. Ike Davis and family came from Clyattville. They lived at the location known as the "Bentley cottage" [on] Hill Avenue [NOTE: 208 West Hill Avenue]. Mr. Solomon Smith was the grandfather of Mrs. J. J. Joiners and Mrs. C. C Joiners. Their mother was Miss Berta Smith. Miss Sallie Fields was the first music teacher. She was from Thomasville and boarded with Mrs. Tom Griffin.

Where the First Baptist Church is located, Mr. George McCall owned and built there, lived there a good many years [NOTE: 200-204 West Central Avenue]. Mrs. McCall was closely related to the Goldwire family. [She was] a daughter of Mr. John Scruggs, a pioneer in the Rocky Ford District.

Mr. Joe Rogers moved in from his plantation near "Blue Springs" to Valdosta, built a home near what is now the corner of Gordon and West Street at the Pennington location, had three children in the School. Mr. Rogers was a brother of Dr. Mathew Rogers. Mrs. Rogers was a sister of Rev. William Goldwire [NOTE: The house of Lawson Pennington was at the Northwest corner of Gordon and West].

Dr. Mathew Rogers came with his family, built his home on what is now Rogers Street. The house is still there [NOTE: This needs to be confirmed as of January 2019]. He owned quite a large tract of land in the northeastern part of town. He was a very fine physician, lost but few cases by fever - [he] understood the diseases of children.

Ike Davis was also a lawyer and was the father of Smith Davis of the Clyattville Section.

Mr. John O'Neal came with his family. They lived in the home which was later owned by Mr. Will Converse[NOTE: 300 North Patterson Street]. He was a Republican and represented the county in the legislature. They soon moved to Gainesville, Georgia.

Mr. Fulton came from Savannah, built a home on Savannah Avenue, two doors from Toombs Street. Perhaps it is still there [NOTE: Silas Fulton's house was on the southwest corner of Toombs Street and Savannah Avenue. It has been demolished]. He was the father of Mrs. James Kirk, Sr. and Mrs. Henry Patterson. These two families came at the same time as Mr. Fulton; Later on [they] built homes were permanently situated. Mr. and Mrs. Fulton later returned to Savannah after a few years. Mrs. Henry Smith, another Fulton daughter moved to North Carolina. Mr. Smith was a Baptist minister.

Mr. Charles Stuart well known as the proprietor of the "Stuart House" established this hotel soon after coming to Valdosta. It was noted for the most excellent service that the transient people received. Mr. Stuart was from Baltimore. After many years [he] moved to Thomasville were Miss Lilly Stuart still resides.

Mr. and Mrs. Louis Rountree came about the same time. They were originally from North Carolina. This was another family who lived at the "Will Converse place." Will was a small boy at that time. Miss Lou McRee. Miss Lou McRee and her brother, later Mr. Will McRee, and their two younger sisters had rooms in this home with Mrs. Rountree. They were in the school. Mr. Will McRee was in the last draft of the Confederacy, and was a pupil in the Varnedoe school.

Mr. Billy Smith, who owned and was the proprietor of the hotel at Troupville, had lived on there the after the village was all gone. Though quite an old man, with two grandchildren to educate, he decided to tear down his home and move to Valdosta. He had already bought the property where the Federal Barracks were located. He rebuilt there, but never carried out his plans, [he] only built a large dining room, an office in the rear. Mr. and Mrs. Smith only lived a short while after moving to Valdosta. The property was sold and later passed into the possession of Messrs. Holder, Jackson and Zeigler. The Jacksons and Holders lived there for quite a while. It was finally torn down. Two cottages were built on the lot on the corner of Hill Avenue and on Toombs Street. Many now remember the Misses Jackon's home on Toombs and the home Mr. Ben Holder on the corner of Hill Avenue and Toombs Street [NOTE: 123 West Hill Avenue].

Mr. and Mrs. Bob Dampier built the home on Central Avenue, known as the home of Mrs. Henry Young. This home was built in 1865 [NOTE: 319 East Central Avenue. Demolished].

The Valdosta Institute under Samuel McWhir Varnedoe:

Going backward [I] will give a little more time to the school. The machinery went forward in a steady progressive way. Mr. Varnedoe's system was entirely different from the schools of "yester day," where the majority of the pupils had gone. He did not try to create fear of himself in the minds of the pupils, but to stir their sense of pride and ambition. He gained the love and respect of the young pupils in the school. We would rather he had lectured us severely than to laugh at us in what we thought a sarcastic way. He stirred the sleeping ambitions and the dull backward mind would try so hard to please him. 

Every third Friday after noon was a great occasion. Mrs Susie Hones Smith's school did not have anything on us. We consider now after all the years have past it was amateur. But their was talent of intrinsic worth in that school. 

Sometimes the younger generation in beginning their career would speak of "George Washington and his little hatchet," every animal under were themes for compositions. But when Willie Pendleton, Martine Varnedoe, Willie Converse, Andy Pendelton, Arthur Howell, [or] Sam Griffin, were called, we would be thrilled at the wonderful oratory we were to hear.

Captain Pendleton's rendition of "William Tell," Martine Varnedoe's "Who was Blannahassett," Willie Converse's "Absalom, my son Absalom," or Andy Pendelton's "Whitewashed Walls," all were received with enthusiasm.

Those were the days of stiff starched skirts and dresses. They would often stand alone. Of tilters and trains of brown calico. This was a favorite color for dresses. I can see our lady teachers now, with their tilters and trains, as they came into school, royal Southern women, upholding by their manners the dignity and traditions of the old South.

How we would rush home bathe our faces until they would shine from the soap. Put on calico dresses and hie away to school for the wonderful exercises we were to hear each Friday afternoon at times. The place would be crowded with visitors, parents, and friends of the school.

The names of those who were pupils in the Varnedoe School. 1866 [NOTE: Thannie Wisenbaker also lists the whereabouts/burial places of the listed people]:  

• Principal Professor S. M. Varnedoe - Sunset

• Assistant teachers:

• Misses Lilla Varnedoe - Sunset

• Sallie Varnedoe - Sunset

Pupils in school

• Anna Ashley Varnedoe - Sunset 

• Sue Ashley Stapler - Sunset

• C. R. Ashley - Sunset

• Sue Allen Engle - Sunset

• Richard Allen - Sunset

• Sam Allen - DuPont

• Ben Allen - Pearson

• Walter Allen - Clearwater

• Stantia Bessent Crews - Sunset

• Henry Briggs - Sunset

• Mat Briggs - Sunset

• James Briggs - Sunset

• Flora Butler Wrens - X

• Frank Butler - Savannah

• Jennie Butler McKinnon - X [NOTE: Atlanta]

• Granville Burke - X [NOTE: Coffee County, GA]

• Henry Burke - X

• Mary Burke - X [NOTE: Lake City, Florida]

• Mills Brinson - Florida

• Jim Bob Bryan - Quitman

• Neil Bryan - Oglethorpe

• Kate Bryan Brooks - Quitman

• Avie Bryan - X

• Hut Beville - X

• Clay Beville - Sumter County, FL

• ____ Beville - X

• Gus Cogdell - X

• Tom Converse - Sunset

• Will Converse - Sunset

• Al Converse - Sunset

• Walter Charlton (Judge) - Savannah

• Willie Charlton - X

• Alice Cashen Williams - Sunset

• Eugene McCall - [NOTE: Lakeland, Florida]

• Brantley Denmark - Savannah

• Taylor Durham - Texas

• Mary Durham Young - Texas

• Styles Downs - X

• Wiley Downs - X

• Gus Daniels - Dead

• Moses Daniels - Dead

• Preston Dickson - Savannah

• Merritt Dickson - Savannah

• Imogene Dickson - X

• James Dickson - X

• Aggie Dickson - X

• Smith Davis - X

• Adeline Dasher Ulmer - Ulmer Cemetery

• Rebecca DeLyon Ralston - Texas

• Leonora DeLyon - X [NOTE: Texas]

• Gatty DeLyon - X

• Carrie Elkins - X

• Blanche Ihley Keller - Sunset

• Ella Johnson - Rome

• Hallie Jarmon - Sunset

• Lizzie Jones Thomas - Sunset

• Sallie Jones Smith - California

• Joe Jones - Sunset

• Billie Force - Naylor

• Catherine Force - Sunset

• Ben Force (Living) - [NOTE: Died 16 July 1935]

• Lou Fulton Smith - X [NOTE: North Carolina]

• Marion Goldwire - Sunset

• Bowen Goldwire Evans - California

• Pattie Goldwire - X

• Sam Griffin - Sunset

• Bud Griffin - Sunset

• Newton Griffin (Living) - [NOTE: Died 1943]

• Mary Griffin Thomas - Quitman

• Marcus Giddens - Tampa

• Seaborn Giddens - Tampa

• Mollie Giddens Parrish - Florida

• Sue Giddens Jones (Living) - [NOTE: Died 1940]

• Fannie George - X

• Mary George - X

• Columbus George - X

• George Adams Keller - Savannah

• Gertrude Keller Sancy - Savannah

• Annie Hesters Barfield - Sunset

• Lizzie Hesters - X

• Arthur Hewett - Waycross

• Mary Hightower Lineberger (Living) - [NOTE: Died 1944]

• Sarah Hightower McMullen - Clearwater

• Sue Hightower Wisenbaker - Dasher

• Joe Hightower - Sunset

• Anna Hightower Wisenbaker - Sunset

• Carrie Harvey Tally - Dixie

• Rachel Hewett - X

• John "Doc" Holliday - Arizona

• Charlie Lang - Camden County

• Sallie Lang Butler -X

• Verdie Lang -X 

• Herbert Lang - X

• Walter Lane (Living) - [NOTE: Died 1945]

• Mary Lane (Living) - [NOTE: Died 1942]

• Willis Lang - Sunset

• Joshua Lott (Living) - [NOTE: Died 1936]

• Indiana Lott - Sunset

• Lena Lott - Sunset

• Eugene Liles - X

• Mary Morgan - Sunset

• Henry Morgan - Sunset

• Corinthia Morgan (Living) - [NOTE: Died 13 Mar 1934]

• Hiram Morris - Texas

• Carrie Myddleton - Sunset

• Henry Moore - Savannah

• Alice Moore Sims - Ousley

• Robert Moore - Jacksonville

• Lena Moore - Fort Lauderdale

• Will McRee - Sunset

• Amanda McRee Culver - Sunset

• Lutie McRee - Sunset

• Lawrence Manning - Sunset

• Neil Manning - Coffee County, GA

• Nat Manning - Hawkinsville

• Carrie Manning Boyd - X

• Pinky Manning - X

• Fannie Moseley Stump - Sunset

• _____ Nolan - X [NOTE: Probably Elliott Lenora Nolan Richardson]

• Susie O'Neal - X

• Jessie O'Neal - X

• Henry Peeples - Sunset

• Emma Peeples Parrish - Sunset

• Charlie Peeples - Sunset

• Tompy Peeples - X

• Richmond Peeples - X

• James Parramore - Thomasville

• Redden Parramore - New Jersey

• John Parramore - Sunset

• Bessie Parramore - Sunset

• Dick Howel - Sunset

• Annie Howell Shelton - Sunset

• Georgia Howell Williams - Sunset

• Arthur Howell - Atlanta

• Willie Parramore Wilson - X, 

• Jim Pritchett - X

• Charlie Pritchard - X

• Cashie Pritchard - X

• Captain Willie Pendleton - Pennsylvania

• James Pendleton - Sunset

• Philo Pendleton - Sunset

• Charlie Pendleton - Macon

• Emma Pendleton - Pennsylvania

• Lilla Pendleton - X

• Louis Pendleton - X

• Andy Pendleton - Sunset

• A. A. Parrish - Sunset

• Wall Ralston - dead

• Jennie Ralston Cook - dead

• Walter Rhine - X

• ____ O'Conner (Living) - [NOTE: Most likely either Mat O'Connell (1862-1946) or Thomas O'Connell (1864-1946)]

• ____ O'Conner (Living) - [NOTE: Most likely either Mat O'Connell (1862-1946) or Thomas O'Connell (1864-1946)] 

• Tom Smith - Sunset

• Maggie Smith Griffin - Bainbridge

• Berta Smith Faircloth - Bainbridge

• Ben L. Smith - Cherry Lake

• Felix Smith - X

Only one improvement to the Institute - sash had been added which was a great improvement from boards that were over the windows, but the summer vacation saw a great change in the building. It was like the brown cocoon of the silk worm - the change was complete. The old building was thoroughly renovated. A partition forming two rooms in the back of [the] building. The second story was divided into several rooms. This was then the home of professor Varnedoe and family. Every place was made clean with paint. Their living and dining rooms were on the first floor, a kitchen was added to [the] back of [the] building. The school room, while not as large as before, was simply sufficient for school purposes. New seats had been added, and the fall term found every [thing] in readiness for the opening of school in fall.

As "Bill Arp" would say everything was calm and serene.

[Below is a photograph of the Valdosta Institute. It was demolished in 1885 to make room for a new brick schoolhouse. It was located in what is now a parking lot in front of the Lowndes County Historical Society & Museum or at 30.830989 -83.283295]

New Businesses and Professionals:

New people were moving in, and the school had a number of new pupils. A number of young men came to Valdosta and ventured out in the business world at this time.

Dr. Lucius Frink, and the first dentist to locate here. He was from Jasper, had graduated from the School of Dentistry in Philadelphia. 

Mr. Alex Darnell was from Kentucky, was a business man,  brought the first shipment of horses and mules to Valdosta after [the] war. Built the home known as the "Darnell house" on the location which is now the Valdes Hotel [NOTE: Northwest corner of Hill Avenue and Toombs Street]. 

Mr. William Lippett, came from Albany, Georgia, was a salesman in quite a number of business houses. He [lived] in Valdosta a number of years. He was a Confederate soldier.

Mr. Louis Cook, who was a brother Mr. Tom Cook Sr. came. and his father, he was in Valdosta only a short while, returned to Atlanta. He was a Confederate Soldier.

Mr. Adolphus Pardee was another soldier, came to Valdosta from Sparta, Georgia, and made his home here for many years. He was the father of Mrs. Helen Goodloe and Mrs. Maggie Varnedoe.

The Grays from Thomasville was another family who came and were patrons of the school. There was a young man in this who branched out in the business world. 

Mr. John Smith, came on to the scene of action. I suppose from Macon. He was the father of Mrs. Carrie Rose.

Mr. Mac Ulmer came from Savannah and made this home for life. 

Mr. Jerry O'Toole was here for a few years, never knew what his business was. 

Mr. Dick Ralston was a returned Confederate soldier and was one of the few competent bookkeepers at that time, was with Mr. Remer Young. 

Mark Griffin, another ex-soldier, engaged in business with his father. Sam Griffin was in School (he was a soldier). 

Mr. Charles Knight came with his family, Mr. Joe and Milton were soldiers. These were the sons of Mr. Knight. Mr. Milton did not make his home in Valdosta, but a short time. Joe Knight and his father built the first houses on North Street, on the corner of what is now North Street and Oak Street. The old Palin home was another dwelling on North Street. There was a road made by timber carts to these homes for a number of years before these streets were opened. Joe Quo [NOTE: This should be John Quo], a colored man, built on the corner of what is now North and Toombs, the largest dwelling on the street.

The Lesters, came and bought and improved their home in 1865. This now is the home of the Misses Myddleton on Troup Street [NOTE: 409 North Troup Street. Still in existence].

There was very few crimes in those days meriting a jail, but the county erected one of hewed logs. The lower part was called the "dungeon." It was pretentious only in its height. It was out on what was then a part of a field near where the first brick jail was erected on the corner of Ashley and Valley Streets. [NOTE: 213-215 North Ashley Street. The brick jail was completed in March 1878. It was demolished in the 1910s]

The first "hanging" in Valdosta was on the "water tank" near the rail road, it was during the war. The colored man came from another county but was overtaken near Valdosta, was driven to the tank in a horse cart, one of the principal ways of travel, and was there executed for arson [NOTE: This paragraph was not transcribed in the Anna C. Richardson version of the narrative].

Major Pendleton's first business venture was to establish The South Georgia Times, the first paper which became the official organ for several counties, including: Lowndes, Echols, and Ware. The paper was on Ashley Street in the second story of a building, that was used as a home by the Caldwell family in the last year of the war.  [NOTE: 112-114 North Ashley Street. It was the first newspaper in Valdosta after the Civil War. The DeLyon brothers had published The Valdosta Watchman for an unknown period of time in the early 1860s. The building was severely damaged by a fire on 4 November 1876 and demolished].

It was a weekly paper, Messers. Philo and Jimmie [Pendleton] went to school, but assisted with this paper. A young man from Thomasville, Fuller Winn, was also an assistant, two Daniel boys and Ben Walter Allen were all engaged from time to time in this work.

Major Pendleton and family first made their home on the Tom Converse, Sr. place. A horse brought an abrupt end to Major Pendleton's career out in [the] eastern part of [the] on Central Avenue, he ad only been a citizen a short time, but his work was well established and carried by the young men of the family. After the Major Pendleton, the family then moved to the DeLyon house on Toombs Street. It was at this place that Philo Pendleton was a victim of typhoid fever a few years after and then and Charlie Pendleton assumed the responsibility, and many know of the achievements of this fine citizen journalism.

In the early part of 1866, Mrs. George and family moved to Valdosta. She was a soldier's widow. She had the first millinery store in the city. It was on the eastern side of Ashley Street somewhere near the south side of [the] alley. She did dress making too, which was all hand work, many puffs and ruffles adorned "my lady's' dresses in those days. She was from Camilla.

Mr. Tom Cook, Jr., a citizen since the reconstruction days, was quite a young man. He built the first new store on Ashley Street next to Mr. Josh Griffin's. His father came later and made his home. Then his brother Louis. He married Miss Tiny Caldwell [NOTE: Sarah C. Caldwell] and returned to Atlanta to live.  She is still left to tell the story

Quite a number came from Berrien County and made their homes: Messrs. Zeke Parrish, Bud Godwin, Jack Parrish, Beatty McLendon, Hamilton McCranie, and others. Some were farmers, others carpenters - some became deputies to officers of the law. Mr. Bud Godwin went back to Berrien, and after a lapse of years returned and became a substantial citizen, in church circles and in the businesses circles.

The Hinely family came [and] lived at what is now known as the Rambo place on Hill Avenue [NOTE: John Rambo lived at the northeast corner of Hill Avenue and Stephens Street, the latter being now Oak Street]. Miss Idella Hinely married James Knight and was the mother of Mr. Roy Knight, who was the grandson of Mr. Charles Knight. Miss Sallie Knight of this family married the Reverend Mr. Norris, an evangelist who was well known in Liberty County.

Churches in Valdosta:

I do not remember whether it was in the fall of 1866, or early spring 1867, [that] Mr. C. C. Varnedoe came home. The next morning, before school, he came from the home through the school room introducing himself. A crowd of us were on the front porch of the Institute. He came out there, making friends of all, when a brick bat sailed through the air, others were rapidly falling in every direction. A negro boy who was an idiot - was passing by, some of the school boys had been teasing him. He was frenzied and was bombarding everything in sight. 

We thought we were very patriotic, Mr. Carroll [Varnedoe] being a returned solider when he rushed don the steps and sent "Crazy Fred" as he was called away. Mr. C was the Champion. Had we had sense enough, we might have given him an ovation. He was only there [a] few days, but was always cherry and left with us a pleasant recollection which has gone through life and the years before his passing. He was ever the affable gentleman. 

To us [it] was the crowning event when he came again the next spring with Mrs. Varnedoe. My what an impression on us, she was stately and good looking. I can remember the gray poplin dress with the train. There never was anything so elegant to us. Her hat with its white plume made a great impression, on us poor little simple folks. Mr. Varnedoe made his home in Valdosta and became as is well known one of Valdosta's foremost citizens.

After Professor Varnedoe became a citizen, one of his first movements, after seeing the school progressing was to establish a Presbyterian Church. A store house on Hill Avenue, second door from Lee Street was the location [NOTE: 238 East Hill Ave]

All services were Union up to this time and continued this spirit.  None of the Church congregations had services every Sunday, but on the days that the different ministers were elsewhere, they met with the other Churches.

Mr. David Comfort was the first Presbyterian minister in the new church. His home was at Boston, Georgia, as well as I can remember, he came two Sundays in the month. 

[I] will give the names of this first Church as those attending this church as I remember them. The Rileys were regular attendants, but [I] do not know if they were Presbyterians or Episcopalians, but they met with the Presbyterians, as a place of worship.

Members of [the] congregation: 

• Professor and Mrs. S. M. Varnedoe, Sr, 

• Misses Lila and Sallie Varnedoe

• Mr. Martine Varnedoe

• Mr. and Mrs. J. O. Varnedoe

• Mr. and Mrs. C. C. Varnedoe,

• Mrs. Stuart, Misses Lilly, Sallie, and Rannie Stuart, Oscar Stuart

• Miss Lou Downs, Wiley, and Stiles Downs

• the Arch Smith family

• Mrs. Riley and Miss Riley

• Mr. and Mrs. Ralston, Sr.

• Misses Lou and Jennie Ralston

• Messrs. Dick and Wall Ralston

• Mrs. Myddleton Sr, Misses Sallie and Margaret Myddleton

• Messrs. Ezra and Bob Myddleton

• Mr. and Mrs. Sam Myddleton

• Charlton family were among the members during their temporary stay, in Valdosta, they left the summer of 1866. The boys were in the spring term of school 1866.

• Mr. and Mrs. Butler and family

• Captain Henry Briggs and family

• Mark Katherine Force

• Annie Ashley

• Jennie Ralston.

Along about this time Mr. Ezra Myddleton married a Miss Miller of Walthourville. She was active along with Misses Margaret and Sallie Myddleton and others in missionary work among the negroes.

The first synod of the Presbyterian Church met in the spring of 1866. They were a number of ministers at this meeting . Reverend Kilsby and Reverend Comfort are the only two names I remember, but there were others whose personality impressed me, even as a child, whose names I would have liked to remember. This assembly was held in the courthouse. The Federal agents were gone and the churches had moved their services back to this building and continued there until the different churches homes were made ready for services.

Several years after the war, Mr. Goldwire moved from Valdosta to North Georgia,  Bartow County - living in Cartersville and later in Kingston. In the last years of his life going to the Carolinas. I do not remember the exact location.

I do not remember the next Baptist minister was. Mr. Charlie Campbell came a few years after the church on Central Avenue was ready for services, but who had charge immediately before he came, I do not remember. Mr. Cooper, a brother of Mrs. Rebecca Jones, preached there. I do not know if he was the regular preacher. Only a few  years elapsed between the departure of Mr. Goldwire and the coming of Mr. Campbell.

Members of [the] Baptist congregation were: 

• Mrs. George McRee and family

• Mr. and Mrs. Remer Young and family

• Mr. and Mrs. Morris, Miss Miriam Morris was [the] first organist).

• Mrs. Morgan and family

• Mr. and Mrs. Josh Griffin and family

• Mr. and Mrs. Tom Griffin and family

• Mrs. Berry Jones and family, 

• Miss Henrietta Goldwire

• Mrs. Joe Rogers

• Mr. Joe Goldwire

• Mr. and Mrs. James Goldwire

• Colonel and Mrs. Peeples and family

• Miss Sue Smith (later known as Mrs. Pardee)

• Miss Effie Smith (later Mrs. R. Myddleton)

Later on those coming into the Baptist Church were:

• Mrs. Remer Lane and family

• Mr. and Mrs. Sol Smith and family

• Mr. Ike Davis and family

• Mrs. Polly Giddens and family (not members of the Church but a regular member of congregation)

• Mr. Mitchell Jones and family

• Mr. Jerry Jones

• Mr. Dave Smith

• Mr. John O'Neal and family

• Mr. and Mrs. Hugh Coachman

• Mr. and Mrs. Tom Crawford

• Mr. and Mrs. Tom Keller and family

• Mr. and Mrs. Noah Fry and family

• Mr. C. O. Force

• Dr. Mathew Rogers and family

• Mr. and Mrs. Gray, Seward, Fannie and Gabie Gray

• Mr. and Mrs. Bob Dampier

• Willie and Eli Tucker

• Mr. and Mrs. Tom Palin and family

• Mr and Mrs. Jackson, Misses Elisa, Sallie and Henry Jackson

• Mr. and Mrs. Lou Zeigler

• Mr. and Mrs. Ben Holder

• Captain and Mrs. Ben Moseley and family.

After the Morris family moved to Texas in the fall of 1867, Mrs. Remer Young was [the] the organist for [the] Church, She filled the place for Sunday School. Mr. and Mrs. Young moved back to their plantation, a few months later. Mrs. Dick Peeples was the organist for a good many years.

[Below is a photograph of the original Valdosta (Missionary) Baptist Church which was completed in 1867. It still exists and is located at 315 East Central Avenue. It is now home to the Pentecostal House of Prayer].