Mosquito coil .

The main and important detail in my future work is a clear layer with resin, because I am excited by the expensive view of transparent resin, which looks quite natural, like the water layer. You can see any examples of nice pieces, which I found on pinterest, without the author's links. Also, I am obsessed with noun - routine forms and volume, so, as a result, I created an idea by using my hand.

Materials for work.

Epoxy resin for countertops and large pots.

Gas burner to remove air bubbles from the surface.

Glossy adhesive membrance.

Silicone sealant to remove air bubbles.

Precautionary measures.

Apron for my work with chemicals.

Long robberized gloves (or armlets).

Protective glasses (Thats very important).

Respirator (or medicine mask).

Wood.

The preparation process begins with the choice of the best type of wood. For my project, the elm tree is most suitable, but such species as ash, acacia, oak, and apple tree are also suitable. (spoiler - I took some pieces of wood like “oh, look at this gradient, Tasha… we must take it”.)

The wood must be a well dried. This is to ensure that the resin does not come into contact with water inside the cut, and also that the wood does not shrink and expand over time after the countertop is created.

Then I need to sand it (polish) without touching the bark. The finer the sandpaper grit (300-400), the more the surface will be “sealed” from resin seeping into it. And in this way a more natural colour of the wood will be preserved.

Work space.

Now, I want to show you what kind of machines I will use in this project. Actually, This is the first time I am working with any bandsaws, but it doesn’t matter, because the equipement and safety level are really high.

So, I think that the preparation part of my work is finished, therefore, I am moving to the practical part.

SKETCHING!

The first step of work - sketch my own ideas.

There are blueprints. Creating my own ideas was hard, because I am not sure about the quality, surface and final view of my ideas, but after the long - thinking process I started doing this creative part. In conclusion, I can say that I really love about 2 ideas and will do all of my favourite intentions.

I am coloured the “wood” parts of sketches by using markers, honestly, this process is more satisfying that sketches, but I am not so careful person and did any remarks, but it hasn’t got a huge sense, because the next module of work is more impacting.

I tried to create more than 6 ideas and after a lot of loops, I understood that my profile is working with something modern, simple and eye - catching.

THE "DIGITAL" STAGE.

Drawing sketches in digital format is a something new for me because before, I'd never tried something more than traditional drawing and painting, I did this work really slow and after, when I stayed uncomfortable and not satysfiyed by the result, I re - draw them and now, there are my final outcomes of my long and hard work.

Just a simple Russian pot.

Danderous, toxic solid.

Balance, hypnosis hand.

Magical hands idea.

After, I took 2 most beautiful and understandable for me, as a cteator, ideas. Under I also pinned my improving, developing processes.

The 1st try of draw my future projects, which are I will redraw into examples under this text.

1st 3D sketch to a final outcome.

2nd 3D sketch to a final outcome.

FOAM WORK.

Foam work.

Foam work is a gigantic part of creating and making a mosquito coil. Therefore, I need to create foam models for the future final projects. I took 3 ideas for the future pieces and now, I am going to show a process and steps. I will use TOA latex adhesive glue and soft grey foam.

The 1st step is sketching. I drew blueprints for future models, by using a blue pencil and a sheet of partly transparent paper (sketching paper). I made 2 separate pieces - one is for base, foundation for the coil and, second are sides, where I will add a screw with a mosquito spiral.

After, I cut these pieces and started to transfer outlines on the foam bricks and cut the foam rectangles. For cutting (melting unusable space) bricks I used a hot wire cutter.

The last step of doing foam models - matching the details. As I said, I used a TOA glue and fixed the constructions.

There are photos of the process and results of my work.

(I also add on the second photo 3rd model of coil holder, but I will not do that, because I cannot combine materials for cast and resin.

WOOD WORK.

1st model was so easy in wood work, because aesthetic response is lying on a resin work. As a result, all I need to do - find matching wood blocks and cut angles.

For another one piece - I need to draw shapes and cut zig zag lines. There are machines that help me with creative processes and steps, how I did it.

1st try

2nd try

3rd try

RESIN.

If you see any ideas, you can notice that I want to do transparent resin projects.

There are also stains and patterns by using other (2nd or 3rd) colours.

Proportion of mixture of the epoxy resin - 2 parts of “A” solid and 1 part of “B” solid. There are photos of preparation and work processes.

Prepare a surface on which you can stick a large sheet of self-adhesive film. This will be the basis for pouring the countertop. Glue the membrane evenly, trying to release air. To create a mold for the sides, you need to take 4 even, smooth boards, glue the surface of each. Coat all joints and crevices with silicone sealant.

Calculate the amount of epoxy you need for your table. Watch the time carefully when mixing the resin. Pour into one container and mix thoroughly for 5-7 minutes. Careful! Unmixed areas can harden poorly. Pour the resin into a dry and clean mold carefully. Air bubbles will begin to float to the surface of the resin - they can be removed with a gas burner.

Polishing and grinding.

To remove the irregularities left on the product by the form, you need to sand the edges of your product. Polish the surface with a special tool - polishes. This agent is applied to the surface and rubbed either with a special apparatus or manually with sponges or a polishing cloth.

So, the 1st photo shows two pieces of wood with resin without polishing and griding on them. for polishing I used a Tik oil, but, for greeding I used a sand paper in the medium - rought, smooth and wood sandpaper for "extra" resin peces.