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Zandra Rhodes, known as the ‘princess of punk’, also held influence over the punk scene and was “...an exponent of the punk look in the late 1970’s”(Britannica kids)(6). Rhodes began her career in the 60s as a printed textile designer, she became renowned for “...perfecting the art-of-print as an intrinsic influence on garment shape”. (Zandra Rhodes)(7) Rhodes’ designs were marked as being “too extreme” and often featured “...ripped material and safety pins” (Britannica kids)(6) matching the punk aesthetic.
In the early 70s, Rhodes chose to leave the British fashion industry and decided to test out the fashion empire of America. It was during her time there that Rhodes connected with Diana Vreeland, marking her stamp in America. Throughout Rhodes' time in the industry, she got to work with many stars such as Freddie Mercury, Diana Ross, Barbara Streisand and Princess Diana - further solidifying her status. In 2003, Rhodes founded the Fashion and Textile Museum in London which showcases the very best of fashion and textiles and in recent years, she also founded the Zandra Rhodes Foundation which “...ensures future generations of designers, artists, researchers, students and educators can study her life and designs”(Zandra Rhodes)(7) The foundation also sets about to catalogue her collections for which a portion will stay with the foundation and the remaining will be donated to big museums across the globe.
Speaking of Zandra Rhodes’ collections, here is a piece from her spring/summer ‘Conceptual Chic’ collection from 1977/8 (Fig .7). Designed by Rhodes, this collection is drawn from the punk movement and local London streetwear, which is a step away from her screen-printed designs. This dress can be described as quirky due to Rhodes’ experiments with elements of punk and high glamour, creating a striking contrast, emphasised through the bold colour palette of hot pink and black. The garment is a full-length long-sleeve dress primarily made from rayon jersey. Detail-wise the gown features a red satin ribbon applique sewn around the neckline, decorative oval-like holes on the shoulder/sleeve and satin sashes which decorate the midsection and drape a-symmetrically to the bottom of the garment. The piece is adorned in silver hardware such as safety pins and sink chains, complemented with some beading and finished with a lettuce hem. Whilst the press regarded this look as punk, Rhodes acknowledged some of her inspirations when creating, such as the ‘Tear Dress’ from fashion house ‘Schiaparelli’. With this collection, Zandra Rhodes established herself and her legacy as the ‘princess of punk’. The garment now sits at the Zandra Rhodes Archives in London.
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