Punk

Punk - An Overview

The most recognised subculture of alternative fashion is said to be punk, mostly likely due to its rebellious rise and influential remarks. Punk originated in the 1970s and is deeply rooted in punk rock music with the ‘Sex Pistols’ being a popular choice. The punk era is notorious for its defiant streak due to the anti-establishment messages and a touch of “...activism, rebellion, and promiscuity”.(Srinidhi Madurai K, Intern at FLJ)(1.)

The Rise of Punk - Fashion Edition

As previously mentioned, the rise of punk began in the 70s with musicians leading the way and spearheading the movement through their subversive, political and raunchy lyrics. However, music wasn’t the only form of self-expression for the people of punk but fashion was and still is to this day. At the heart of punk couture is the motif of non-conformity and rebellion, against mainstream and traditional clothing and, by proxy, the government. Punk fashion further desires to be the force that questions societal norms and takes a stance on the commercialisation and homogenisation of clothing. This is typically represented for punks through their love of second-hand shopping (also known as ‘thrifting’), deconstruction and reconstruction and DIY.

Punk fashion also holds spaces for crossdressing and welcomed androgyny. Punk men were typically seen in what society deems as feminine clothing such as skirts and dresses served with a side of fishnets and makeup. The women rocked combat boots (typically Doc Martens) and oversized clothing with this masculine energy which is a far cry from the figure-hugging dresses of the past. This portion of the punk community impacted the fashion industry as androgynous fashion is becoming more mainstream and widely socially accepted and the same with crossdressing due to the influence of not only punk but also drag queens. (fig .3)

Now not only did musicians spearhead the punk movement but so did fashion designers. Fashion designers, during this era, delved into the rebellious spirit throughout their designs and encouraged the anarchist way of life. Some iconic designers throughout this time were Malcolm Mclaren, Vivienne Westwood and the ‘princess of punk’ Zandra Rhodes.

Politically Punk

Aside from fashion, the punk era was also famous for its stance on politics. The stereotypical punk ideology is all about subversion and counterculture,”...you stray from the norms, radicalise yourself, and fight for an end to working-class struggles and economic inequalities.”(Maya Avendano)(8)

1970s Britain is often reflected as a decade of social and national crisis, due to the post-war environment and the introduction of the right-wing leader Margaret Thatcher. Britain was plagued by an economic recession called ‘The Great Inflation’, causing people to fall into financial struggles as they became highly unemployed, coupled with the decrease in industrialisation. Additionally, the 1973 oil crisis further aided in this economic depression as oil prices skyrocketed, impacting energy costs, and heightening inflation.

Alongside this, Britain was locked in a political gridlock as both parties (Labour and Conservatives) failed to address and solve the economic crisis. Both parties attempted to implement policies which failed and caused further turmoil and political disillusionment,  especially with the lower classes as they experienced anger and frustration. The youth felt waves of uncertainty as institutions were also impacted.

During this climate, punk emerged, forming this subculture as a response and taking a stance against the government. Alongside the fashion, punks expressed their objections through music with their lyrics expressing social issues like unemployment, equality and the political uproar. Songs often criticised the government and the overall general hypocrisy of society. Some famous songs are the Sex Pistols infamous ‘God Save the Queen’ which mocks the monarchy and state of the nation and then there's The Clash with ‘Tommy Gun’ which deals with themes of war and political unrest.

The punk movement was impactful and influential as the movement gave a voice to the real issues at hand and challenged the status quo. The movement has a long-lasting effect as people still resonate with the ideologies of rebellion and non-conformity, hence why punk is not dead.

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