Having debated incessantly about the southern coast vs Snæfelsness Peninsula, the southern coast won. I knew I would not have time to go all the way out to Diamond Beach (next time!) or the Westman Islands (the puffins left last month, anyway), but I would be able to be l see a good deal.
I made it to a number of waterfalls that have mist-created rainbows in the afternoon sun, hooked 500 very rickety stairs I trained on my treadmill to tackle (thanks to iFit filming this exact climb), lava black sand beaches, a lighthouse, sheep being rounded up for the fall count, and even Eyjafjalljökull, the volcano that brought the world to a stop when it erupted in 2010, though the latter was a bit cloud covered on this day.
I thoroughly enjoyed this jaunt up to Vik and back to the hotel in Reykjavik. I even had authentic pesto at the Dyrhólasey Promontory café. Having simply enabled for lunch, it was perfect. I headed back to the hotel knowing I was going to explore the Reykjanes Peninsula and Blue Lagoon before flying back home in the evening.
Waterfalls abound in Iceland from its many glaciers. It is tempting to pull off on the side of the road to take a picture of each one you see (particularly early on in your drive along the southern coast), but be sure to only do so in designated turnouts.
Skógafoss is one gloriously powerful waterfall. I could have easily just stayed here all day. This waterfall is 200 feet tall. Legend says that the firrst Viking settler Thrasi Thorolfsson burried a treasure behind the waterfall in a cave. Locals are said to have found it years later, only to have it disappear when they grasped the ring on the side of the chest. This ring is said to have been given to a local church. There is a 527-step rickety metal grate staircase up to the the top on the right side of the waterfall. It is a good workout with places you can stand to the side and allow others to pass if you need to catch your breath or like Kristen periodically need to gather up more gumption to tackle a fear of heights.
It is easy to see why there is a draw for this location, but be sure to invest in a waterproof jacket and pants. you will get soaked if you want to get within any close distance (even as far back as those in this image).
Kristen had the pleasure of being at several locations with this beautiful lady who was having a pregnancy photoshoot.
Kristen excited to tackle hiking up this waterfall!
The long, sinuous line of people making the 527 stair trek to the right was one she knew she could tackle. She trained on the incline of this exact location with her treadmill and iFit.
Above: Proof Kristen made it to the top!; Below: Sheep can be found along the side of most of the road.
The hike into Kvernufoss is fairly flat, likely the most friendly to those who use assistive devices that I saw along the southern coast. Kristen did meet someone using a wheelchair who wanted to see the waterfall even if from a distance and they were able to do so. The canyon alone is picture worthy, but the joy of this location is that you can go behind the waterfall and stay relatively dry. The encircled cliffs is whimsically named The Concert Hall of the Elves (or Hidden Folk as they are often called in Iceland).
TIP: Bring plenty of dry lens wipes if you wear glasses and plan to be near any waterfalls! Kristen packed some in a ziplock bag that she kept in her jacket pocket for easy access.
The steep drive up to the top of Dyrhólaey (Door Hill Island) Promontory is a bit heart racing for the height-adverse with its winding roads and no guardrails. Anytime Kristen sees warning signs like the one below, she knows she is about to see a hobbyist photographer's delight and this location was no exception. The lighthouse was originally built in 1910, though the present one was built in 1927 and is three stories high. All of the supplies were brought in by bought and pulled up to its location along a cable from the shore.
It is easy to see why this location is known as Black Sand Beach with its lava-based sand.
From the Dyrhólaey Promontory; Below Left: The promontory lighthouse with sea stacks in the background
The lighthouse is the most southernly point in all of mainland Iceland.
The promontory with the black lava columns of Reynisdrangar
TRAVEL TIP: Be ready to set a self-timer and make a mad dash while laughing out of sheer joy to your chosen spot if you are a solo traveler. It is possible to snap a quick picture of yourself like Kristen did here. Don't be afraid to pull over to do this; others will join you quickly if they were not doing so already and join in on the revelry.
Kristen arrived at the reflection of Mirror Beach, an area that has trace amounts of water along the causeway that reflects off of the bay's black sand below
On the way to Black Sand Beach, Kristen spotted local sheep farm sorting their sheep. To say they could be heard a mile away may not be an understatement. They jostled to find the place in the pen to their favored place and voiced objections to being jostled by the others. They were quickly sorted and moved into their respective pastures. It is easy to imagine how these lovely baa-ing sheep will make warm winter wear come springtime when they are shorn.
Those who live in the Pacific Northwest of the US may recognize the basalt formations that are splintered in hexagonal columnar jointing of volcanic rock at Reynisfjara. The basalt columns of the large cave, Gardar (Stronghold), can be found around the world in places like Giant's Causeway in Ireland and the Washington/Oregon border in the Columbia River Gorge. The otherworldly lava-based sand on the beach really is as black as you can imagine with blue reflections of where the water saturates it.
This is a location where you should take the sneaker wave warnings seriously. There have been tourists washed away by sneaker waves combined with undertows. Kristen was in luck that today was a yellow warning and not red.
Gardar (Stronghold) has a cave tall enough to stack several people high and still not touch the top of it at its highest point
The café found here was a much welcomed sight for Kristen who had been so busy with her Iceland adventure, she had snacked in the car instead of having lunch. This homemade pasta with pesto was just what she needed to finish her explorations of this part of the southern shore.
Kristen arrived to Vik later in the day when most things were starting to close and was fairly dark with a storm rolling in. She as pleased to discovered that the sun was shining at Seljalandsfoss waterfall. This waterfall is 197 feet tall and originates at the volcano glacier Eyjafjallajökull. Some of you may remember when this volcano erupted in 2010 when it disrupted travel to and from Europe for a week and the world learning how to pronounce its long name correctly...or at least attempt to do so. Having almost completed her ambitious agenda for the day, Kristen failed in her excitement to see this last waterfall to don her waterproof jacket and pants before entering the waterfall area only to realize they were necessary after all. It was all part of the day's adventure!
The Vik Church is an iconic sight to any who have been to Iceland and sits on top of a steep hill overlooking the sea.
Kristen on the drive back to Reykjavik. The landscape here is rugged and has a mystical feel wiht the clouds and fog rolling in.
The glacial water woke her up to drive back to the hotel safely.
The last day Kristen spent in Iceland resting before heading to the Reykjanes Peninsula to visit the Gardskagaviti Lighthouse. This lighthouse was built in 1944 and is Iceland's tallest at just over 90 feet. It is located on the northwest point of the Reykjanes Peninsula. The sound of birds can be heard nearby but the scenery is devoid of the sounds of a city and is soothing to the soul.
Gardskagaviti Lighthouse
After receiving advice to go to a thermal bath the day of her flight out, this was a no brainer. She booked the Blue Lagoon several hours before needing to be at the airport, but that left some time to explore the Peninsula in the way there and see a lighthouse before returning to KEF airport. On the way to the Blue Lagoon, there were several detours to avoid the nearby volcano activity. A few weeks later, we learned that the luggage storage outbuilding and the parking spot she used covered in lava after a nearby fissure opened up. Looking back, it is not much of a surprised given that you have to walk through a pathway carved out from previous lava flows, but it is still a bit of a shock to realize it was not too far off from when she visited. The entire parking lot is now covered in lava other than a few streetlights at the end of the lot. You can see a video of the lava flow from the air at this BBC news story.
Above: Walking into the spa area from the parkinglot along the path carved out from previous volcanic eruptions; Below: Kristen about to head into the Blue Lagoon facilities
Above: Blue Lagoon Entrance; Below: The Blue Lagoon hot springs. These are refreshed fully on a regular basis as the water is naturally warmed and feed into this area. Be sure to bring water shoes to avoid the residue from washed-off face masks.
TRAVEL TIP: Visit a thermal spring the day of your flight home. Kristen experienced what others did: an easy flight back home with little to no physical discomfort, ease of taking a long nap on the flight, and an easier adjustment back to her time zone when she arrived back home. Be sure to bring some water shoes to spare your feet from either rough natural surfaces of hole-in-the-wall locations or the wash-off of face masks in places like Blue Lagoon.
Kristen decided to upgrade her seat on the way home, which meant she had access to the business and first class lounge. These tend to be very quiet with a plethora of ports and plugs to recharge your phone or other devices. Food and beverages are included and consistently provided. Showers are available along with shampoo, conditioner, body wash, and a towel should you wish to make use of the amenities. While Kristen is not a fan of pickled herring, she enjoyed the experience. Also found in the airport was an exhibition of a classic car on the way to her gate. Can you imagine cruising down the road in this baby blue car? She also picked up a few items as gifts for people back home at the duty free store like Icelandic candy and gourmet salts.
Due to leaving around sunset and the rotation of the earth, we were given quite the show of an extended and colorful sunset on the flight back to the US.
Back through customs! Global Entry made it a breeze and Kristen was not even required to remove her glasses for the picture taken at the custom's booth. No scan of a passport /global entry card or even interview was required. It was a breeze and one we both would recommend should you plan to travel overseas more than once in the next 5 years.