Everyone, say hi to Leif Erikson. "Hi, Leif!"
Kristen made it safely to Iceland! Icelandair's stopover program is not only a great way to help adjust your circadian rhythm on the way back to the US, but is also a fantastic way to explore the Land of Ice and Fire for no additional airfare. She decided to stay for three nights in order to get in two solid days of unwinding with her camera and a rental car. September is a lovely time to visit if you want to have the benefits of avoiding winter and have the possibility of seeing the aurora borealis.
After a long day of travel including a 0600 flight, Kristen arrived in Reykjavik from Kraków around dinnertime. Somewhere between the airport and getting out of the rental car in Reykjavik, the wind decided to embrace the sub-arctic cold temperatures. She was immensely grateful for the warm layers she packed and an easily accessed grocery store for some healthy snacks and hair conditioner. She found a parking spot at the famous church, though found some of the parking signs a bit confusing. As this was her first time and knew that she would be a bit travel weary after a Rick Steves tour, she decided to stay in a Reykjavik hotel the entire time. A quick check-in and a trip to the local grocery store resulted in a dinner of Skyr cheese (very similar to Greek yogurt), blueberries, and trail mix. She had an early night of it as the next day was going to be spent on the Golden Circle.
Above: Customs at Keflavík airport was as easy as simply following the signs to the exit as I arrived from another EU country; Right: Kristen made a new friend even before leaving the airport!
Kristen loves seeing how others tackle landscape design. There were plenty of plants that she recognized in Reykjavik. Out of the city was another story!
Reykjavik has many murals throughout the city center. Take a walk around to see a few including the one above and the other from a pub's patio below.
Kristen stayed at Hótel Óðinsvé as her home base for this trip. In the future, she will likely have a first night in Reykjavik while booking hotels along the ring road to make the most of time and see more of Iceland. The hotel staff are friendly and responsive. It is worth paying for their bag breakfast or going to a local grocery store to purchase items if leaving early. You can see some of what is offered at the buffet for those who dine in (right).
All hot water is heated by the lava flows below the ground and smells a bit of sulfur. The scent dissipates as it dries, so no need to worry about smelling like rotten eggs after showering!
After a hearty breakfast, I headed out for the Golden Circle. For those unfamiliar with toys road loop in Iceland, it has a bit of everything that Iceland is known for: waterfalls, a volcano crater, sweeping landscapes, the place where the first All Thing was held by the Vikings, geysers, and even the place the tectonic plates meet between North America and Europe. While Kristen planned for snorkeling at Silfa where the tectonic plates meet, she was a bit tired after the Rick Steves tour and ad walking up to 9 miles per day in Iceland.
If you come here, be sure to have cell phone data capabilities as the parking is paid with their Parka app. If you do not, the fees are steep (3x the cost of parking) and they will find you. Kristen's app did not record one number of her rental car's license plate and they contacted her with the fee within 24 hours. Having asked for a receipt to be sent to her email at each parking fee location resulted in that fee being refunded.
Above: This church was designed by Ragnar Emilsson in the 1960s with triangles throughout as a reference to the Trinity; Right: Kristen at a Golden Circle scenic overlook.
Thingvellir National Park is a must see for those visiting Iceland. It was established in 1930 and full of both history and breathtaking scenery that pictures will never do justice.
Why not add a hike to your adventure?
Left: Hiking to where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet (Silfa); Above and Below: Toward the start of the trail, Silfa peeks out toward the horizon.
Kristen was enthralled with the diversity of plants as well as the autumnal colors.
The view from where the first All Thing was held by the Viking settlers. Thingvellir Church was built at this location with timbers sent by Norway's St. Olaf (King Olav II, 995-1030). The current rendition was built in 1859, however. The housing to the right of the church was built in 1930 as a residence for the local priest who also served as the park warden.
Oxararfoss Waterfall
Above: Autumn colors and folliage are found everywhere you look in September; Right: The long hike back up the hill to the trailhead.
TRAVEL TIP:
Make a quick trip to one of the local grocery stores to save some money on lunch in addition to making it easy to orient areas away from towns while getting in a midday meal. If not, there is always an option of Icelandic hotdogs you can find at any gas station throughout the country. These are not typical American hotdogs that are savory and salty. Instead, they are made from lamb, have a sweet flavor, and even have nutmeg in them. Pile them up with everything like a local with onions, ketchup, "spicy" mustard (simply spiced, not pepper spicy), and relish. They are delicious!
If anyone is considering traveling to Iceland, there are a few resources Kristen found helpful:
Rick Steves' Video Specials (both TV and Monday Night Travel episodes)
Rick Steves' Radio Episodes about Iceland
Rick's suggested Iceland Itinerary
Rick and Ian's blogpost on Iceland's Volcanoes
Sarah Murdoch's video on packing lightly for two extremely different climates (including Iceland)
BONUS FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS: John Wheatherby's Photographing Iceland is a downloadable eBook that is truly a comprehensive guide to planning, traveling, and photographing Iceland. I highly recommend it as it covers everything from clothing to hotels and van camping, places to eat, suggested itineraries, recommended angles, times of day ideal for each location, etc. in minute detail. It was immensely helpful for learning about a few things I added to my plans that may not be as big of a draw for the average traveler.
The geyser at Geysir is a fun, quick stop. It erupts approximately every 10 or so minutes, but not with the nearly timetable accuracy of Old Faithful. You can see it start bubbling up from the cavern below before the water sprays above to the delight of all the tourists who make the trek from the parking lot to see this wonder.
The blue water at at this waterfall feels like God turned up the saturation level. The calcium content from the glacial waters reflect the sky so intensely. This is a quick stop, but one I would add to your agenda if you are visiting the area.
To say that this waterfall is large would be an understatement. Its triangular shape allows the powerful water flow to fall the cliff and produces a mist reminiscent of Niagara falls. If you arrive in the afternoon, you will find that the mist and sunlight create a rainbow.
In Iceland, it is illegal to import any horses. As a result, the Icelandic horse is uniquely located in just Iceland. This breed is unique from all others as they always have one foot on the ground while galloping. As a result, the Icelandic horse is a sturdy mount for the uneven, rustic terrain and is highly coveted as a result.
Kerið Crater is easily accessed as a quick pullover from the Golden Circle road. You can walk the edge of this crater lake. It is approximately 55 meters deep, 170 meters wide, and 270 meters across, mostly made up of red volcanic rock. This looks like something generated by AI, but was a fun stop to stretch Kristen's legs before the last stretch of the drive back into Reykjavik after a long day driving and hiking. You can see how big this crater is based on the people on the far edge of the trail along the top of the crater.
The gentle transition into evening brings a burst of many colors from those of sunset near Kristen's hotel (above) to those of blue hour at Hallgrimskirkja (left wiht a statue of Leif Erikson).
What better way to end the day than a mindful moment savoring the travel memories created that day?