Nowa Huta is the city's version of Brooklyn with the local residents intentionally making improvements to an area that was run down. Formerly designed by the Russians as part of a communist program this planned steelworkers' town that exemplifies the socialist aesthetic of the People's Republic of Poland (and is now a desirable suburb). These were cookie cutter neighborhoods designed to foster reliance on neighbors. Of interest is that this is where our tour guide, Tomasz, grew up. We learned about how the initial promises by the communists failed to live up to the communist dream and is now thriving under capitalism.
The Polish version of a bagel is made each morning and distributed to stands like this one found throughout the neighborhood. There are several options like sea salt, sesame seed, and parmesan cheese.
A church built in defiance of Russian rule. They were not allowed to use any technology and carried the stones down from the mountains that make up the sides of the building. The roof is shaped like an ark.
The corner of Solidarity and Ronald Reagan St. Quite the street name change after overthrowing communism in a communist-designed neighborhood.
Diane enjoying a swing while learning about the structure of the neighborhoods.
Left: A memorial for those killed by the communists in Nowa Hota; Right: Diane coming out of a local cultural center
Above: a communist-built movie theater still stands; Right: A reminder of the Russian rule era on the sidewalk in Nowa Huta
Diane and Kristen explored some of Kraków fitting our free afternoon in Main Market Square. We enjoyed seeing a grandmother and granddaughter throw seed to a sea of pigeons, others taking an afternoon stroll, and the line of horse drawn carriages.
About 20 years ago, archeologists discovered that in order to keep down the smells of the refuse and animal droppings in the Kraków market square, layers of sand and dirt were brought in. This resulted in a surprise discovery and 6 year excavation that determined there was around several dozen feet of history below people's feet. The underground museum (literally under the Main Market Square) was interesting as we wondered about the lives of those who had been present for each layer of sediment.
Above: The layers of sediment added over the years to Main Market Square; Right: Jewelry found during the excavation
TRAVEL TIP: Take some time to simply be present as a human being instead of a human doing in one of the city squares. The down times where you soak in the ambiance is as poignant as some of the other memories you will have from your travels.
Having seen a decent amount of things others were visiting that afternoon, we decided see one of da Vinci's paintings (Lady with an Ermine) as well as a rare Rembrandt landscape (Landscape with the Good Samaritan) at Czartoryski Museum. As this museum is mostly a collection of the belongings of Princess Czartoryski, we thought it might be a bit hit or miss, but we were happy to discover the museum a treasure trove of interesting paintings, artifacts, and overall history.
Upper Right: The Hussar Half Armor is something I have heard described in the famous battle of Waterloo. Can you imagine an entire army of them coming at you?
Above Left: Annunciation, Master Jerzy, 1517 has the smallest depiction of Jesus we have seen. Can you find it?; Right Top: Bona Sforza, The Family of Sigusmund I, Lucas Cranach the Younger, Wherever you go in Europe, you will see the long reach of a few Italian families like the Sforzas; Right Middle: Madonna and Child with St. Anne, da Verona; Right Bottom: A scholar in his study, Jacob van Spreeuwen
Left: The inner workings of a lockbox; Bottom Left: Italian chessboard; Bottom Middle: Hercules Fighting the Nemean Lion (AKA, Hercules giving his cat a pill); Bottom Right: Woman and Her Bath, Unknown
There were several professional guild cups like these nautilus and shipbuilder cups. Quite the step up from our modern coffee mugs!
Landscape with the Good Samaritan, Rembrandt
Lady with an Ermine, da Vinci
Like much of Europe, the influence of trade on Chinese décor was found in Poland. Here Diane poses with a large dragon statue (Figure of a dragon, China, Duyun, 18th/19th Century). In the middle one of Poland's many renditions of shields over the centuries. To the bottom right is Frederic Chopin's death mask.
Frederic Chopin, Stattler
We finished up the day with the last group dinner, continuing to connect with the others and reminiscing about our experiences on this trip. Good company and food made it a night to remember.
Kristen enjoying the last dinner with the other tour members
The main course had several choices, but the fish was well done and delicious. Tomasz surprised us with his traditional Polish outfit; a tour member surprised him with a Polish mustache, which we saw on many, many statues throughout the country.
An in-season plum tart with toasted almonds was the perfect ending to a lovely meal and a memory-filled tour. To the left and right are pieces of artwork in the restaurant.
A BIG thank you to Tomasz who made our trip one of a lifetime. He ensured not only our safety and enjoyment of this tour, but also helped us discover our Polish roots.