Field Trip Summary: Following check-in, you will be grouped into teams and assigned a group leader who will stay with your team throughout the trip. You must complete all stations to receive credit for the field trip.
This field trip is a full glacier simulation, meaning you will travel, camp, and operate as you would on an actual glacier climb. Please ensure to coordinate your sleeping arrangements, either sharing a tent with another student or bringing your own accommodations. If you plan to sleep in a ranger trench, please coordinate with your group leader.
Duration: All weekend, overnight
Freedom of the Hills (FOTH): Chapters 5, 18, 24, 25, 27
Please use either the suggested trip planning resources or your own to participate in your group's trip planning discussions.
Critical Skills to anticipate for Field Trip 7: Z-Pulley, Knots
Critical Skills for Field Trip 6: Knots, Carabiner Ice-Axe Belay, Ice Axe Self Arrests (if mastery isn’t achieved at Snow 1, student can test at Snow 2)
Knots and Hitches (FOTH pg. 158-168)
Mastery Includes:
Demonstration of correct use of all practical knots during trip activities.
Carabinier Ice-Axe Belay (FOTH pg. 371)
Master includes:
Recall the name of the belay and recognize situations for its use.
Set up the belay in under a minute, considering snow conditions.
Use correct climbing commands and apply a dynamic technique to stop a falling climber without anchor failure.
Ice Axe Self Arrest (FOTH pg. 364-368)
Instructors will fully demonstrate all ice axe arrest techniques prior to the student's test.
Mastery Includes: Students must quickly stop or slow a fall in each position, maintaining proper technique for snow conditions. If you have difficulty with a certain position, be sure to let your instructor know.
Arrest practice sequence:
Feet-first, face up
Feet-first, face down
Head-first, face down
Head-first, face up
Tips: Start each new position slowly. Don’t hesitate to ask for support or repeat demonstrations if needed. Position should reflect an arrest with crampons, but not actually have them on.
Practice/Objectives
Snow Belays
Learn and practice snow belay and anchor techniques, including the sitting hip belay.
Master the standing carabiner-ice axe belay, ensuring the ability to set it up quickly (under a minute) and use dynamic techniques to stop a falling climber.
Understand the proper situations for using the carabiner-ice axe belay, and apply correct climbing commands.
Roped Travel
Learn techniques for preparing for a glacier climb, including an alpine start, roping up, and roped travel with crampons.
Master proper carrying techniques for an ice axe, the rest step, plunge step, and switchbacking while walking with crampons.
Management of a Snow Camp and Shelter
Learn how to manage a snow camp, including building a snow shelter and spending the night in it.
Be prepared with dry clothes and gear, as snow practice is wet work.
Ensure all equipment is checked and packed appropriately, as returning to cars during the weekend is not permitted.
You can choose to sleep in your own snow shelter or a tent. Snow caves will not be constructed.
Avalanche Terrain
Learn to identify avalanche terrain and assess conditions to ensure safe travel.
Alpine Start
Be prepared for an alpine start by waking before dawn, preparing gear, and ensuring readiness for the day’s activities.
Glacier Travel
Understand and practice glacier travel techniques, including roping up and the proper use of crampons for safe movement across glacier terrain.
Practice all relevant snow and ice travel techniques to ensure safety on glaciers.
Carabiners
1 large locking pear carabiner
4 medium to large locking carabiners
6 non-locking carabiners
Carabiners are essential for attaching the climbing rope to anchors and for connecting gear to your harness. Locking carabiners are used for belaying to ensure the carabiner remains securely closed under load, while non-locking ones are for less critical connections.
(2) 5-6 feet of 5mm accessory cord
(Optional) Hollow Block or presewn prusik loop
Climbing accessory cords are versatile tools for ascending ropes, creating backup systems, and performing self-rescue techniques. The autoblock loop is a critical component of a self-belay or backup system during rappels. Different lengths and diameters of accessory cord allow for a variety of uses, from prusik loops to emergency knots, ensuring you're prepared for a wide range of climbing scenarios.
Webbing, Runners, and Slings
(1) Personal Anchor 18mm/120cm pre-sewn double runner or chain style PAS (Personal Anchor System)
(1) Single Runner 5 feet of 1 inch webbing for tied nylon single runner or 120 cm pre-sewn nylon or dyneema runner
(2) Double Runner 9 feet of 1 inch webbing for tied nylon double runner or 240 cm pre-sewn nylon or dyneema runner
(1) Tied Runner at least 9.5 feet of 1 inch nylon webbing in a color different from your other runners. This will be used for a chest harness which you will size in class and tie with a water knot.
Runners provide critical support for personal anchors and ascending systems. The nylon runner is durable for anchor connections, while the Dyneema runner is lightweight and is used with a carabiner for rope ascension.
Webbing is versatile for creating custom runners, anchors, or a chest harness. Different lengths allow for flexibility in various climbing scenarios, while color differentiation ensures clarity when assembling systems like chest harnesses.
Belay Device
(1) Tube style Belay Device.
(Optional) Assisted braking device
NOTE: If you bring an assisted braking device this needs to be in addition to the tube style device, not in place of.
A belay device ensures controlled friction for safe belaying and rappelling.
Rescue Pulley
The rescue pulley is an essential tool for crevasse rescue, designed to reduce friction and make hauling an injured climber or fallen team member easier. A prusik-minding pulley is recommended as it allows for smoother operation in mechanical advantage systems like the Z-pulley setup.
Mountaineering Boots
These boots are designed for mountaineering and provide the support, insulation, and traction needed for snow and ice climbing. They are stiff to accommodate crampons and keep your feet warm in cold conditions.
Leather Gloves
Leather gloves offer protection from rope burns and abrasion while belaying or rappelling. They provide a good balance of dexterity and protection when handling the rope, which can be harsh on the hands during extended use.
UIAA-Approved Helmet
A climbing helmet is a critical piece of safety gear, protecting your head from falling rocks, debris, or impact from falls. UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) approval ensures the helmet meets safety standards for climbing and mountaineering.
Climbing Harness
The climbing harness connects you to the rope and protects you in case of a fall. It is essential for securing you during belaying, rappelling, and other climbing activities. Ensure it is properly fitted for comfort and safety.
Ice Axe
The ice axe is a versatile tool used for self-arrest, climbing on snow or ice, and as an anchor tool. It provides support for balance and can be used to stop a fall on steep terrain (self-arrest).
Picket
A picket is a metal stake used as a snow anchor in mountaineering. It is driven into snow or ice to create a secure anchor point for belaying, rappelling, or securing the rope in snow conditions. Your picket should be 24”.
Crampons
Crampons are sharp, spiked devices that attach to mountaineering boots to provide traction on ice and snow. They are essential for maintaining stability on steep or frozen terrain, especially when moving across glaciers or steep snow slopes.
Proper layering is key to staying warm, dry, and comfortable during a snow overnight trip. It helps regulate body temperature while protecting you from the elements.
Base Layer: Moisture-wicking fabric to keep sweat off your skin.
Insulating Layer: Fleece or down to trap body heat.
Outer Layer: Waterproof and windproof shell to protect against snow, wind, and moisture.
Gloves: Extra pairs, at least one waterproof and insulated.
10 Essentials (Standard Climbing Essentials)
The 10 Essentials are a basic set of items recommended for any outdoor activity, ensuring safety and preparedness in emergencies. These include:
Navigation tools (map/compass)
Headlamp/flashlight
Sun protection (sunscreen, sunglasses)
First aid kit
Knife (or repair kit)
Fire-starting materials
Shelter (emergency bivy or space blanket)
Extra food
Extra water
Extra clothes (to prevent hypothermia)
Food
Bring enough food for two lunches, one dinner, and one breakfast. Pack additional snacks to sustain your energy throughout the day.
Snow Shovel
A lightweight snow shovel is essential for digging snow pits, setting up camp, or building wind protection around your tent.
Sleeping Bag
Your sleeping bag should be rated to 15°F or lower to ensure warmth during cold nights.
Insulated sleeping Pad and Foam Sleeping Pad
A combination of pads provides insulation and comfort, keeping you warm by preventing heat loss to the snow.
Tent / Bivy
You may pair with another student to share the load of carrying a tent. Ensure it is designed for snow camping and provides adequate weather protection.
Snow Wands (6)
These lightweight markers are used to mark safe routes or your campsite when visibility is low due to snow or fog.
Trekking Poles with Snow Baskets
These poles provide stability and help reduce strain on your knees and legs while traversing snowy terrain. The snow baskets prevent the poles from sinking too deeply.
Insulated Sit Pad
An insulated sit pad keeps you warm and dry when sitting on snow or cold ground, especially during rest breaks.
Waterproof Layers for Self-Arrest Practice
Wear a waterproof jacket and pants to stay dry during repeated falls into the snow while practicing self-arrest techniques.
Plastic Tarp and/or Tent Footprint
A plastic tarp provides a simple, lightweight solution for protecting your gear from snow and moisture.
Bear canister or Ursac
Use a bear canister or Ursac to securely store food and scented items, protecting them from wildlife.
Snowshoes (Recommended/Required Based on Snow Conditions)
Snowshoes are used to distribute your weight over a larger surface area, preventing you from sinking too deep into soft snow. If snow conditions are deep or powdery, snowshoes may be required for efficient movement. It’s important to rent or bring snowshoes if the conditions warrant them.
Chains and a Shovel for Vehicles (Recommended/Required Based on Snow Conditions)
Chains and a shovel are essential for driving in adverse winter conditions. Chains help provide traction on icy or snow-covered roads, while a shovel can be used to clear snow around your vehicle or in case of an emergency.