Field Trip Summary: Review this video and this video on basic pulley systems to help with envisioning the process.
Instructors will check your equipment before heading out.
Before reaching the practice area, they'll go over key glacier travel skills, including rope etiquette, crampon use, ice axe handling (including crevasse probing), and route finding. You'll gear up with a seat harness, chest harness, prusiks, and crampons (if conditions allow) before roping up.
Once the field trip leader and instructors have set up the crevasse rescue practice area, each team will demonstrate the z-pulley rescue method. Every student will rotate through all positions on the rope—lead climber, middle climber, and end climber.
You'll also practice moving in rope teams using different glacier travel formations before returning to the parking lot.
For a detailed breakdown of the z-pulley and single pulley rescue systems, refer to Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 10th edition, Chapter 19. Please note that FOTH 10 highlights using traction devices, we will be teaching a method that preserves our live ropes and still achieves the fundamentals of z-pulley rescue.
Remember; DO NOT STEP ON THE CLIMBING ROPE. It is your lifeline and must be treated with respect.
Duration: All-day with an early start, consider camping the night beforehand
Freedom of the Hills (FOTH): Chapters 19, 22, 23, 24, 25, 27
Critical Skills for Field Trip 7:
Knots and Hitches (FOTH pg. 158-168)
Z-Pulley (3:1) (FOTH Chapter 19)
Proficiency for all critical skills is explained in the scoring rubric.
Carabiners
2 large locking pear carabiner
4 medium to large locking carabiners
6 non-locking carabiners
Carabiners are essential for attaching the climbing rope to anchors and for connecting gear to your harness. Locking carabiners are used for belaying to ensure the carabiner remains securely closed under load, while non-locking ones are for less critical connections.
(1) 5-6 feet of 6mm accessory cord
(1) 3-5 feet of 6mm accessory cord
(2) 5-6 feet of 5mm accessory cord
Climbing accessory cords are versatile tools for ascending ropes, creating backup systems, and performing self-rescue techniques. The autoblock loop is a critical component of a self-belay or backup system during rappels. Different lengths and diameters of accessory cord allow for a variety of uses, from prusik loops to emergency knots, ensuring you're prepared for a wide range of climbing scenarios.
Webbing, Runners, and Slings
(1) Personal Anchor 18mm/120cm pre-sewn double runner or chain style PAS (Personal Anchor System)
(1) Single Runner 5 feet of 1 inch webbing for tied nylon single runner or 120 cm pre-sewn nylon or dyneema runner
(2) Double Runner 9 feet of 1 inch webbing for tied nylon double runner or 240 cm pre-sewn nylon or dyneema runner
(1) Tied Runner at least 9.5 feet of 1 inch nylon webbing in a color different from your other runners. This will be used for a chest harness which you will size in class and tie with a water knot.
Runners provide critical support for personal anchors and ascending systems. The nylon runner is durable for anchor connections, while the Dyneema runner is lightweight and is used with a carabiner for rope ascension.
Webbing is versatile for creating custom runners, anchors, or a chest harness. Different lengths allow for flexibility in various climbing scenarios, while color differentiation ensures clarity when assembling systems like chest harnesses.
Belay Device
(1) Tube style Belay Device.
A belay device ensures controlled friction for safe belaying and rappelling.
Rescue Pulley
The rescue pulley is an essential tool for crevasse rescue, designed to reduce friction and make hauling an injured climber or fallen team member easier. A prusik-minding pulley is recommended as it allows for smoother operation in mechanical advantage systems like the Z-pulley setup.
(Optional) Micro Ascender
A micro ascender is a small device that grips the rope and allows you to ascend without sliding back. It can be used for ascending fixed ropes or as part of a rescue or self-rescue system.
(Optional) Progress Capture Pulley
A progress capture pulley has a built-in mechanism that prevents the rope from slipping backward. It is commonly used in hauling systems to capture progress and make crevasse rescue more efficient.
Mountaineering Boots
These boots are designed for mountaineering and provide the support, insulation, and traction needed for snow and ice climbing. They are stiff to accommodate crampons and keep your feet warm in cold conditions.
Leather Gloves
Leather gloves offer protection from rope burns and abrasion while belaying or rappelling. They provide a good balance of dexterity and protection when handling the rope, which can be harsh on the hands during extended use.
UIAA-Approved Helmet
A climbing helmet is a critical piece of safety gear, protecting your head from falling rocks, debris, or impact from falls. UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) approval ensures the helmet meets safety standards for climbing and mountaineering.
Climbing Harness
The climbing harness connects you to the rope and protects you in case of a fall. It is essential for securing you during belaying, rappelling, and other climbing activities. Ensure it is properly fitted for comfort and safety.
Ice Axe
The ice axe is a versatile tool used for self-arrest, climbing on snow or ice, and as an anchor tool. It provides support for balance and can be used to stop a fall on steep terrain (self-arrest).
Picket
A picket is a metal stake used as a snow anchor in mountaineering. It is driven into snow or ice to create a secure anchor point for belaying, rappelling, or securing the rope in snow conditions. Your picket should be 24”.
Crampons
Crampons are sharp, spiked devices that attach to mountaineering boots to provide traction on ice and snow. They are essential for maintaining stability on steep or frozen terrain, especially when moving across glaciers or steep snow slopes.
Proper layering is key to staying warm, dry, and comfortable during a snow overnight trip. It helps regulate body temperature while protecting you from the elements.
Base Layer: Moisture-wicking fabric to keep sweat off your skin.
Insulating Layer: Fleece or down to trap body heat.
Outer Layer: Waterproof and windproof shell to protect against snow, wind, and moisture.
Gloves: Extra pairs, at least one waterproof and insulated.
10 Essentials (Standard Climbing Essentials)
The 10 Essentials are a basic set of items recommended for any outdoor activity, ensuring safety and preparedness in emergencies. These include:
Navigation tools (map/compass)
Headlamp/flashlight
Sun protection (sunscreen, sunglasses)
First aid kit
Knife (or repair kit)
Fire-starting materials
Shelter (emergency bivy or space blanket)
Extra food
Extra water
Extra clothes (to prevent hypothermia)
Food
Bring enough food for two lunches, one dinner, and one breakfast. Pack additional snacks to sustain your energy throughout the day.
Trekking Poles with Snow Baskets
These poles provide stability and help reduce strain on your knees and legs while traversing snowy terrain. The snow baskets prevent the poles from sinking too deeply.
Insulated Sit Pad
An insulated sit pad keeps you warm and dry when sitting on snow or cold ground, especially during rest breaks.
Snowshoes (Recommended/Required Based on Snow Conditions)
Snowshoes are used to distribute your weight over a larger surface area, preventing you from sinking too deep into soft snow. If snow conditions are deep or powdery, snowshoes may be required for efficient movement. It’s important to rent or bring snowshoes if the conditions warrant them.
Chains and a Shovel for Vehicles (Recommended/Required Based on Snow Conditions)
Chains and a shovel are essential for driving in adverse winter conditions. Chains help provide traction on icy or snow-covered roads, while a shovel can be used to clear snow around your vehicle or in case of an emergency.