Field Trip Summary: You’ll be assigned to a team and a group leader, who will stay with your team throughout the day. Leading up to the field trip, plan to discuss topics such as weather, road conditions, avalanche considerations, etc. Please treat this field trip like you are gearing up for a glacier climb and put all known resources to use. Completion of all stations is required for field trip credit.
Duration: All-day with an early start, consider camping the night beforehand
Freedom of the Hills (FOTH): Chapters 16, 17, 19, 20, 28, as well as pg. 158-168 and pg. 204-205
Critical Skills to anticipate for Field Trip 6: Knots, Carabiner Ice-Axe Belay, Ice Axe Self Arrests (if mastery isn’t achieved at Snow 1, student can test at Snow 2)
Critical Skills for Field Trip 5: Knots, Sitting Hip Belay with Climbing Commands, Ice Axe Self Arrests
Knots and Hitches (FOTH pg. 158-168)
Mastery Includes:
Demonstration of correct use of all practical knots during trip activities.
Sitting Hip Belay (FOTH pg. 204-206 & 372)
Mastery includes:
Please note that the approved approach differs from FOTH, you should be putting your control carabiner into your belay loop, not your two hard points.
Recognize and recall the belay’s name and its appropriate applications.
Efficiently set up all components of the belay in a timely manner. Use CARB (climber-anchor-rope-brake).
Use precise climbing commands for clarity and coordination.
Dynamically arrest a falling climber with secure hand positioning and appropriate technique, maintaining anchor integrity.
Ice Axe Self Arrest (FOTH pg. 364-368)
Instructors will fully demonstrate all ice axe arrest techniques prior to the student's test.
Mastery Includes: Students must quickly stop or slow a fall in each position, maintaining proper technique for snow conditions. If you have difficulty with a certain position, be sure to let your instructor know.
Arrest practice sequence:
Feet-first, face up
Feet-first, face down
Head-first, face down
Head-first, face up
Tips: Start each new position slowly. Don’t hesitate to ask for support or repeat demonstrations if needed. Position should reflect an arrest with crampons, but not actually have them on.
Footwork Techniques:
Duck Footing
French Technique
Front Pointing / German Technique
Side Hilling / Traversing
Kick Stepping
Plunge Stepping
Crampon Awareness
Ice Axe Techniques:
Cane Position
Low Dagger
High Dagger
Self-Belay
Self-Arrest Practice
Movement Concepts:
Transitioning Between Techniques
Using Terrain Features
Maintaining Three Points of Contact
Awareness of Runout and Consequences of a Fall
Switch-backing
Tying in
Snow Belay and Anchor Techniques (FOTH pg. 371-375)
Instructors will introduce you to snow anchors, including the use of pickets, t-slot, bollards, and your ice axe as an anchor. You will use these to set up your belays.
Introduction to standing carabiner-ice axe belay and running belays.
Avalanche Awareness
You'll discuss elements of your Avalanche Awareness course with your team and your instructor. Take note of snow conditions, talk about risk factors, observe changing weather, etc.
Carabiners
1 large locking pear carabiner
4 medium to large locking carabiners
6 non-locking carabiners
Carabiners are essential for attaching the climbing rope to anchors and for connecting gear to your harness. Locking carabiners are used for belaying to ensure the carabiner remains securely closed under load, while non-locking ones are for less critical connections.
(2) 5-6 feet of 5mm accessory cord
(Optional) Hollow Block or presewn prusik loop
Climbing accessory cords are versatile tools for ascending ropes, creating backup systems, and performing self-rescue techniques. The autoblock loop is a critical component of a self-belay or backup system during rappels. Different lengths and diameters of accessory cord allow for a variety of uses, from prusik loops to emergency knots, ensuring you're prepared for a wide range of climbing scenarios.
Webbing, Runners, and Slings
(1) Personal Anchor 18mm/120cm pre-sewn double runner or chain style PAS (Personal Anchor System)
(1) Single Runner 5 feet of 1 inch webbing for tied nylon single runner or 120 cm pre-sewn nylon or dyneema runner
(2) Double Runner 9 feet of 1 inch webbing for tied nylon double runner or 240 cm pre-sewn nylon or dyneema runner
(1) Tied Runner at least 9.5 feet of 1 inch nylon webbing in a color different from your other runners. This will be used for a chest harness which you will size in class and tie with a water knot.
Runners provide critical support for personal anchors and ascending systems. The nylon runner is durable for anchor connections, while the Dyneema runner is lightweight and is used with a carabiner for rope ascension.
Webbing is versatile for creating custom runners, anchors, or a chest harness. Different lengths allow for flexibility in various climbing scenarios, while color differentiation ensures clarity when assembling systems like chest harnesses.
Belay Device
(1) Tube style Belay Device.
(Optional) Assisted braking device
NOTE: If you bring an assisted braking device this needs to be in addition to the tube style device, not in place of.
A belay device ensures controlled friction for safe belaying and rappelling.
Mountaineering Boots
These boots are designed for mountaineering and provide the support, insulation, and traction needed for snow and ice climbing. They are stiff to accommodate crampons and keep your feet warm in cold conditions.
Leather Gloves
Leather gloves offer protection from rope burns and abrasion while belaying or rappelling. They provide a good balance of dexterity and protection when handling the rope, which can be harsh on the hands during extended use.
UIAA-Approved Helmet
A climbing helmet is a critical piece of safety gear, protecting your head from falling rocks, debris, or impact from falls. UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) approval ensures the helmet meets safety standards for climbing and mountaineering.
Climbing Harness
The climbing harness connects you to the rope and protects you in case of a fall. It is essential for securing you during belaying, rappelling, and other climbing activities. Ensure it is properly fitted for comfort and safety.
Ice Axe
The ice axe is a versatile tool used for self-arrest, climbing on snow or ice, and as an anchor tool. It provides support for balance and can be used to stop a fall on steep terrain (self-arrest).
Picket
A picket is a metal stake used as a snow anchor in mountaineering. It is driven into snow or ice to create a secure anchor point for belaying, rappelling, or securing the rope in snow conditions. Your picket should be 24”.
Crampons
Crampons are sharp, spiked devices that attach to mountaineering boots to provide traction on ice and snow. They are essential for maintaining stability on steep or frozen terrain, especially when moving across glaciers or steep snow slopes.
Effective Layers for Winter Conditions
Effective layering consists of a moisture-wicking base layer, an insulating middle layer, and a waterproof/windproof outer layer. Proper layers help regulate body temperature, manage sweat, and protect you from the elements during cold and wet conditions.
10 Essentials (Standard Climbing Essentials)
The 10 Essentials are a basic set of items recommended for any outdoor activity, ensuring safety and preparedness in emergencies. These include:
Navigation tools (map/compass)
Headlamp/flashlight
Sun protection (sunscreen, sunglasses)
First aid kit
Knife (or repair kit)
Fire-starting materials
Shelter (emergency bivy or space blanket)
Extra food
Extra water
Extra clothes (to prevent hypothermia)
Trekking Poles with Snow Baskets
Trekking poles with snow baskets provide added stability and help distribute weight across your body when walking on snow or ice. The baskets help prevent the poles from sinking too deep into soft snow, enhancing balance on uneven terrain.
Insulated Sit Pad
An insulated sit pad helps you stay warm and dry when sitting on snow or cold ground. It provides extra insulation from the cold, especially during rest breaks or when setting up for a self-arrest practice.
Waterproof Layers for Self-Arrest Practice
Waterproof layers (such as a waterproof jacket or pants) are important for self-arrest practice, as they will keep you dry during wet snow conditions. These layers help maintain warmth and dryness when you’re repeatedly hitting the snow during practice sessions.
Snowshoes (Recommended/Required Based on Snow Conditions)
Snowshoes are used to distribute your weight over a larger surface area, preventing you from sinking too deep into soft snow. If snow conditions are deep or powdery, snowshoes may be required for efficient movement. It’s important to rent or bring snowshoes if the conditions warrant them.
Chains and a Shovel for Vehicles (Recommended/Required Based on Snow Conditions)
Chains and a shovel are essential for driving in adverse winter conditions. Chains help provide traction on icy or snow-covered roads, while a shovel can be used to clear snow around your vehicle or in case of an emergency.