Step 4, Cut and mark out head piece

Next cut the head piece and transfer the marks across from the soleplate so you have a pair.

Don’t cut the head too tight in length or you will struggle when putting it in place.

Step 5, Mark out and cut temporary upright studs

Mark out and cut 2 or 3 temporary upright studs. You will use these to hold the head in place while you position and fix it.

To get the right length place a stud under ceiling and mark off two thicknesses of timber to allow for the head and sole plate.

Check this length from side to side and in the middle in case the ceiling and floor are out of parallel. Make allowances as needed.

Step 8, Consider method of fixing studs

You can skew nail the studs to the sole plate and head. If you use an off cut that fits between the studs (350mm long if the studs are 50mm wide) then this will help prevent the stud from moving to the side as you skew the nails through.

Attention to detail when skew nailing means you don’t want to leave hammer marks in the timber when driving the nails home.

Step 10 Install and fix joinery framing & casings

Now is the time to fit the door casing (or any other joinery framing like windows or hatches.

Step 12 Cut and fix sheeting and insulation as needed

Cut and fix the covering sheets.

Fire proof partitions will require two layers of plasterboard with staggered joints

Working from the other side now is the time to install any sound proofing that may be specified.

Than finally repeat the process with the plasterboard on the other side.

Step 3, Mark the position of the upright studs on the sole plate

Next fix the sole plate to the floor and mark the positions of the upright studs.

Make sure the covering sheets will join on a stud, so set these out first, then place the remaining studs at 400, 450 or 600 mm centre to centre as specified. If the spacing are not specified then 400mm centres is normal.

Remember measuring inside to out is the same as measuring centre to centre, this way you can position the studs against your pencil line.

Step 6, Position check for plumb and fix head piece

Next position the head and hold in place with the temporary studs cut earlier. Check for plumb at each end and in the middle before fixing the head. The head can be nailed to the joists if they run across the direction of the studding. If the joists run parallel to the studding, and you can get access, then you can place noggings between the joists and fix the head to these.

If the joists run parallel and you cannot get access into the floor void then you will need to use a cavity fixing device like spring toggles for example.

Step 7, Cut, position and fix upright studs

When the head is in place next you can cut, position and fix the upright studs.

Remember to pay particular attention to the studs that take the edge of the covering sheets.

Step 9 Studding above door and noggings

Next complete the studding above the door (or any other openings that may be in the studding like windows or serving hatches)

Remember to pick up any sheet edges that run round the opening

Next cut and fix the noggings.

These fulfil two functions

1) they stiffen up the stud partition

2) the pick up and support the edge of covering sheets.

Putting more than one row of noggings increases the stiffness of the partition.

Step 11 Provide support for services

We must not forget the services. this could include.

Electrical, Data Services or Plumbing & Heating

We need to provide support for metal electrical knockout boxes. In habitable rooms sockets need to be a minimum of 450mm from the finished floor level to bottom of socket and light switches need to be at a maximum height of 1200mm to top of switch. Any electrical switches, outlets or controls also need to be at least 350mm away from room corners.