Trip Report: Scotland, July 29^th – Aug 1^st 2008

I first visited Alastair MacLeod (now retired), who is in charge of the Genealogical section of Inverness Library (geneaology@highland.gov.uk, 01463 220330). He was extremely helpful and knowledgeable. I only wish that I had had a tape recorder with me, as I wasn't able to record everything he told me (particularly when it came to Celtic names!).

He pulled out a considerable number of reference books for me, from which I photocopied all the relevant references that I could find. Unfortunately, I just didn't have time to study them in detail, at the time, but hope that I didn't miss anything useful.

(The additional comments are from my distant cousin, Robert Russell, in Sydney.)

Starting at Inverness library.

1. In 1783, George Gillanders was the most important tacksman (principal tennant)of Francis Humberstone MacKenzie (MP, Col of 78th Regiment, became Lord Seaforth and Baron Mackenzie of Kintail in 1797 and Governor of Barbados 1800-1806), known as Mac Coinneach Bodhar, Deaf Mackenzie. GG held lands around the lochs on the East of Lewis, including Sulishader.

2. Lord Seaforth died in January 1815 and his estates passed to his eldest daughter (his four sons had already died), Mary Frederica Elizabeth, Lady Hood, whose husband, Admiral Sir Samuel Hood, had died eighteen days earlier. Lady Hood married James Alexander Stewart of Glasserton in May 1817, after which Mr Stewart assumed the additional surname of Mackenzie.

3. In 1791, Alexander Gillanders, factor, was paid £46.14.41/2 for expenses incurred during an army recruiting campaign, instigated by FH Mackenzie.

4. In 1824, Mr Stewart Mackenzie of Seaforth requested permission to establish a distillery in Stornoway. I need to check which Mackenzies were which but I think he was the same MacKenzie who set up the Ord Distillery, which may explain why the Macgregors were involved.

5. Details of Gillanders of Highfield lineage are given in 'the Landed Gentry', Burkes and 'History of the Mackenzies', Alexander Mackenzie, 1-894183-00-2. These include various George and Alexander Gillanders but I have yet to establish if they were the same ones as above. I couldn't find any reference to a Helen Gillanders. The Gillanders may have Masonic links in Stornoway.

6. There is a comprehensive history of the Trotter family, 'Hasten with Care' (1-877338-78-8), written by Sir Donald Trotter (NZ). This includes a family tree showing Ann Trotter (ch 21/8/1843, d 17/1/1911, m 6/1/1864 Roderick MacGregor). Her parents are shown as Robert Trotter (2/7/1785 - 7/8/1856 ch 16/7/1785 in Ednam m 17/11/1821 Catherine Urquart (1800-12/2/1872). Both buried in Killearnan.

Robert Trotters parents were John Trotter (1763 - 11/2/1831 m Mary Clark). Tenant of Spittal and Springhall, Roxburghshire. All children christened Ednam. Later tenant of Drumore and Allangrange, Rosshire. Buried at Killearnan as 'Farmer, Drumore aged 68'.

Details of Ann and Roderick MacGregor's family's whereabouts in 1925 (written by Anna Trotter Cameron) are included, p26.

[Russell, Robert] This is how we found Roderick MacGregor’s children in South Africa.

7. Barvas is a village in the north of Lewis.

8. Melbost is an area near Stornoway Airport. Details of Melbost Farm are included in 'A Hebridean Heritage', Myra & William Hore, 0-9692490-2-0. When Sir James Matheson purchased Lewis from the Mackenzie's in 1844, Melbost was the Manor Farm. A gentleman farmer from Ayshire, by the name of Houston, took over the tenancy at this time. (This may have been why William MacGregor moved to the mainland)

[Russell, Robert] William sold property to Matheson

9. There is a place called 'Faynafield', 5 miles N of Dingwall. However, this is not in Urray parish. Alastair thought that the place name was more likely to have been 'Tenafield' (Tenafelle or Tighnafelle - Gaelic for 'Fiddler's House), which was only about 1 1/2 Km West of Ord Distillery. (By chance, I subsequently came across an article 'How they lived 100 years ago - excerpts from the ramblings of an octogenarian' by Kenneth Mackay, who was born at Tenafelle. This was in a publication, 'The Brahan Seer Trail', compiled by Christian (Lady) Innes, who lives at Aultgowrie, which is only 1Km away. I am planning on writing to her to see if she knows anything about William or Thomas MacGregor).

10. There were Stuarts (also Stewarts) from Galloway (?), many of whom married Mackenzies.

11. There were MacGregors at Incherril (?) (near Kinlochell, Gaerloch Village, who apparently moved to Lewis in the late 1700s. The MacGregors were protected by the MacKenzies.

I then visited the Highland Family History Society offices (which only happened to be open on a Tuesday!) Unfortunately, the normal librarian was away and I couldn't find their file on Gillanders.

I was advised to write to their secretary, John Durham, with any query, so that he can put it in their newsletter. I intend to do this.

I did look through their index to the 1841 Census and found the following MacGregors living in Urray Parish. They were:

Catherine age 50

Duncan 55

Eliza 60

Margaret 20

Mary 32

William 25

and in Barvas, Isle of Lewis

William 55 (who could possibly be our William) [Russell, Robert] This is our William

The following day, I visited Gerald Ogilvie-Lang at Kinkell Castle (where Thomas MacGregor was living at the time of the 1861 census). He was kind to show me around. I didn't learn anything new but it was very interesting to see that it was in visual sight of all the places that we had come across: Conon Cottage, Ord Distillery, Tenafield, Brahan House and Highfield.

After visiting Kinkell Castle (NH554544: OS26), I drove up to Fodderty and went looking for Conon Cottage and had a look around the cemetery. There is an old farm there and a few other properties, only three of which looked older than 100 years. No one I asked had heard of Conon Cottage and I only found a few MacGregors (which I photographed) in the cemetery, none of whom rang any bells. The cemetery, however, was quite large, so I could easily have missed some.

I then continued West to Coul House (NH463564: OS26), which was built for the MacKenzies of Coul in 1819-21. It is now a very nice hotel! (there is a very good, paperback guide book 'Ross and Cromarty - A historical guide' by David Alston. 1-874744 48 3, which gives a history of the area and details of all the castles, mansion houses, villages, church sites, distilleries etc). I tried to find out if there had been a distillery in the area (in case this was where Thomas Macgregor lived) but couldn't find anything.

On the way, I passed through the spa town of Strathpeffer but, unfortunately, didn't realise, at the time, that this was the location of Castle Leod (NH511545: OS26), which is the Seat of Clan Mackenzie. It was infuriating that I missed this, as it transpired that I went past on one of the few days of the year that the Castle was open to the public. I did, however, subsequently pick up details of the Clan Mackenzie Society (www.clan-mackenzie.org.uk), which I intend to investigate further.

After Coul House, I drove back East, along the Conon Valley, to the site of Brahan Castle (NH511545: OS26), which was the seat of the Mackenzies of Seaforth. Although there is very little left to see of the original building, I spoke to the Estate Manager, who kindly let me look around. He suggested that there might have been a Conon Cottage further down the river, at Maryburgh.

I drove down there and sure enough found Wrightfield Farm (NH543564: OS26), on the river side of the railway bridge, just before the old Conon bridge. It is about 2Km NNW of Kinkell Castle. There is an old, stone barn and a riverside bungalow, which looks to be from a later period. I went to enquire at the house and was very warmly received by the current owners, who confirmed that it used to be called Conon Cottage.

By chance, the son, Kyle McAllister is a keen local historian, who had copies of all the local Monumental Inscription Records (produced by the Highland Family History Society), which he gladly showed me.

I then continued South past Conan House (NH534538: OS26) (which was built by the Mackenzies of Gairloch in 1790-99 to replace their earlier residence of Kinkell Castle), past the site of Highfield House (NH52 51: OS26) (seat of Mackenzie Gillander family) to Urray Parish Church (NH509525: OS26) and the old burial grounds (NH507532: OS26). Here, I again photographed all the gravestones, which I thought could be of interest. I did notice that two of the parish priests buried in the grounds were MacDonalds.

Unfortunately, I didn't have time to visit the Kilchrist Parish Church (NH 539492: OS26), which I read was a 17th century 'mausoleum' adapted as a burial place for the Gillanders of Highfield in 1870. There is, however, no access to the inside of the building.

I then went to visit the Glen Ord Distillery, which is only a mile South of Urray Church. I wasn't sure if the 1861 census showed Thomas and Mary MacGregor living at 'Ord' or 'Coul' distillery (or something else altogether!) but now think that this was the most likely address.

The distillery is now a major concern. I bought one of their last dozen bottles of 15 year old, Glen Ord Malt Whisky. It turns out that they are replacing Glen Ord with a new brand called Singleton, which is only being sold in the Far East.

The Ord Distillery was established by the Mackenzies in 1838. I believe that it was initially a co-operative of six other small distilleries.

After visiting the distillery, I went looking for “Taynafield”. I didn’t find this initially, as it is only shown on OS 431 (1:25000) and not OS 26 (1:50,000). It turns out to be only 1 mile West of the distillery.

I then drove up the Strathconon valley, past Loch Auchonachie, to the old burial grounds outside Milton. Although the Urray Parish marriage register shows Duncan Macdonald and Margaret Macgregor as residing in Auchonachie, I could see no sign of any buildings in the area from that period. This is possibly because they are now under water, as a result of building of the hydro electric dam.

There were quite a lot of MacDonald graves at Milton, which I photographed. The crofters in this area were moved out in the clearances of 1840-48 by the Balfours, Mr Rose (a notorious Dingwall solicitor) and James Gillanders of Highfield. They were resettled in Knockfarrel and the Black Isle. (see History of the Highland Clearances, Alexander Mackenzie 0901824-96-8)

The following day, I went to look at the Mackenzie graves in Fortrose Cathedral then drove to Rosemarkie.

After visiting the museum, I found the Gillanders’ graves in the churchyard, which I photographed. I also found the site of the old poor house (which was run by three generations of Gillanders) on the Ness (peninsula), just to the South of the village.

I then drove on via the Dingwall Museum (where I thought I might find the Urray Parish records, only to find that they are in the Registery Office in the Muir of Ord) to Ullapool and spent the early evening looking around the burial ground and visiting the library.

The following morning, I went to the museum and met Don McLeod, who is one of their genealogy researchers. He couldn’t have been more helpful. After showing me their filing system and reference library, he gave me unlimited access to their records and left me to get on with my research.

The first thing I did was look up any references to ‘Customs’. This brought up Mrs Passaportis’

Research Request Form, dated 2/9/2003. In this she says the following information came from her uncle's family tree.

“Angus MacDonald of Scoraig (on peninsula just South of Ullapool) married Ann Mackenzie, great niece of Mackenzie, the then Laird of Dundonell. He had two sons - one who went to St Vincent (Windward Islands) - other Angus John MacDonald H.E.I.C.S (Honorable East India Company) was born in 1757 and died in 1830, married Janet (or Jessie) Stewart, whose parents lived in Inverael, near Ullapool. At the age of 17, Angus John went to India, where he remained for 17 years. On returning from India, in consideration for his distinguished valor against Hyde Ali and Tippo Sahib, he was given the post of Controller of Customs at Ullapool through the influence of the Duke of York... the couple were buried in the Loch Broom churchyard outside Ullapool. Had three children - Jessie MacDonald married Mr Cameron (whose mother was a sister of William Macgregor), D.S. MacDonald married Margaret Macgregor - descendant of Rob Roy Macgregor.”

I think that D.S. MacDonald must be Duncan MacDonald my great, great grandfather.

I have since spoken to Mrs Passaportis, who turns out to be the great, grand daughter of John William MacDonald (one of Duncan MacDonald's sons). It turns out that she has a family tree which shows:

Rob Roy MacGregor > James MacGregor > Rory Macgregor > William MacGregor > Margaret MacGregor

It will be interesting to see all the details as James Mhor MacGregor (eldest son of Rob Roy) was born in 1695 and died in 1754, the latest Rory could be born is 1753 when James would have been near 60 (so it will also depend on his wife’s age). James’ first children appear to be around 1731/32

William was born in 1786 so a birth of about 1745 for Rory would suit us quite well. Location of birth will also be interesting….

As well as any of William’s siblings.

It may be a case of checking dates and places against James’ trails etc.

Or perhaps there is a generation missing !??!

In addition, I found:

1. File 2002-585 which recorded a lecture by Malcolm Bangor Jones. In this, he lists leavers from Ullapool in 1827, which includes a George and Margaret Gillanders, and a Johannah Gillanders, sometimes Ullapool now 67 Great King St, Edinburgh (her sister Margaret Gillanders was the widow of John MacKenzie of Ullapool).

He also lists vessels cleared out of Ullapool 1795-6, which includes: Jean ,16 tons, Captain: John MacDonald, age 37, born at Meddat (1758) (This could possibly be Angus John MacDonald, although I have him recorded as being born in 1757).

He also notes an Alexander MacDonald, fisherman, who became partner in Mackenzie-Macdonald, shipowner and was active as a fish curer from 1815- 24. He suffered from shipping losses and poor fishing which led to financial difficulties that resulted in him becoming a prisoner in the toll-both, in Inverness, by March 1826.

2. File 2001/391 which mentions a Duncan MacDonald, fisherman, b 1831 married Margaret Munro Moss 2/2/1860. There is a photograph of the couple.

3. File 2000/347 mentions a Fraser family (nee MacGregor) emigrating from the 'Dundonell' area, to Australia, in 1829 on James Moran.

4. File 2001/365 mentions Jessie Gillanders wife of Simon Grant, Cabuie d. 22/1/1886 82y.

5. File 2002/523 mentions Isabella Gillanders (19), Scatwell emigrating with husband Farquar Ross (22)) on Hornet to Geelong from Liverpool 29/7/1854. (Married Parish of Cantin 7/7/1854). There is a full account in the file.

6. File 2002/956 reports Isabella Gillanders dying in child birth 18/8/1855.

7. File 2002/582 reports George Ross arriving in Ullapool in 1806 to take over as Controller of Customs.

In addition, I found:

8. A record of (Angus) John MacDonald's (HEICS) (d 22/9/1830 age 73 yrs) grave in the old Loch Broom burial ground, by Clachan Church.

9. A record of an adjacent grave stone laid by Alexander MacDonald in memory of Margaret Macpherson (d 26/5/1819 age 27 years)

10. Records of another set of Gillanders graves in the Achanault burial grounds, 20 miles to the SSE of Ullapool, off the A382. (Unfortunately, I didn't have time to visit them).

That evening, I drove out to Achiltibue, on the Reiff peninsula, but ran out of time to get to the old burial grounds at Baddenscallie.

The following morning, I visited Clachan Churchyard to find John MacDonald's grave. While there, I also found the graves of Annabelle MacKenzie, the short lived wife of Alexander MacDonald (John's son) .

I then went to see the Dundonell Estate, which is at the SE end of Little Loch Broom. This is were the MacKenzies of Dundonell were based. (Dundonell House is now owned by Sir Tim Rice, the lyricist)

There are two old Mackenzie burial grounds there, one of which has the grave of Alexander Gillanders, Esq, Younger of Highfield (Helen Gillanders' brother), Commissioner of Seaforth, d 8.1794, 49y. The grave (wehich bore a remarkable similarity to Duncan S MacDonald’s grave in St Vincent) appeared to have been laid by his wife, who was a MacKenzie, but the markings were illegible.

By chance, I came across a new, limited edition book (in Maggie’s tea rooms) on the 'Dundonell of the Mackenzies' by David Iredale, 978 1 86077 461 4. I haven't studied it, yet, but it has a comprehensive history of the family, to which we are apparently related. There is mention of dispossessed cottars being moved onto the Scoraig peninsula, in 1841, including 'an aged retainer John MacDonald' and a 'Roderick MacDonald', cattle dealer.

I am now hoping to find out:

1. More details on Ann Mackenzie and how she fits in to the Mackenzie of Dundonell’s family tree.

2. More details on John MacDonald of Scoraig and his parents.

3. How William Macgregor was related to the Mackenzies on Lewis.

4. How the Gillanders on Lewis were related to the Gillanders at Rosemarkie and/or the Gillanders of Highfield – if at all.

Mike Steele 31/8/2008