As I have greater experience with tablet weaving, I will not be going into a lot of depth in my research for the Hordweard Challenge. My main focus will be the reproduction of the practice of a tablet weaver from the Viking Age, with special attention to the process and pattern creation.
Tablet weaving is one of my favourite past times. It captured my attention at my very first re-enactment event and I have been studying it ever since. Over the years, I have developed my own personal style, drafted many patterns based on historical examples, woven simple and intricate designs, experimented with a variety of techniques and materials - I even wrote a book about it with my husband, Bjorn!
As a fairly seasoned tablet weaver, I am quite comfortable drafting a pattern and weaving ribbons with the boards. They are tools that are quite familiar in my hands. But, I have never attempted a project like this before. Previously, my study has focused on the reproduction of known historical bands. I've never really tried to weave an intricate and original band without the assistance of a visual pattern to guide my turns. It has been quite daunting to step away from the familiar and reach out to the strange unknown.
An integral part of the Hordweard, as I have come to understand it, is to learn your craft as a craftsperson would have in period. So, the real question is - How would a weaver design a tablet woven pattern in the 9th Century?
I’ve spent years developing the skills required to read modern patterns, to graph and to notate new patterns based on archaeological examples, and the manual skills required to weave complex tablet woven bands. But, these are modern skills. I need Viking Age skills. I need to be able to weave without the crutch of step by step, tablet by tablet instructions or the convenience of a 20th Century inkle loom. I need the skill to be able to manipulate the turning sequence to create striking, well balanced designs from memory whilst I am weaving. I need to be comfortable to work with backstrap or a warp weighted set up for long periods. I need to be able to predict and to plan areas of brocade. To anticipate and accommodate patterning issues as they happen. I need to be able to observe patterns in my surroundings, to draw inspiration from popular motifs and weave them into my band. And, it needs to look appealing, display minimal errors, and appear cohesive and deliberate. It’s a surprisingly tall order…
What are my assumptions?
Without evidence of visual or written drafting, it is likely that a master tablet weaver did not require a draft for new work.
The act of weaving is inherently slow and meditative - allowing ample time to anticipate and plan future symbols whilst weaving.
If a basic drawing was used to help draft a pattern, this notation was not considered a valuable item, was likely drawn with cheap and perishable material, and would not have been interred into the burial mound (this is also assuming that the wearer of such fine tablet weaving was also the weaver = unlikely).
A skilled tablet weaver may have draw reference from regionally significant symbols or designs, as seen in other ornate crafts like wood/bone/stone carving, pottery, jewellery, embroidery, tapestry.
What do I know?
Tablet weaving lends itself to geometric symbolism, rather than organic shape building.
Multiple techniques may also be used to increase complexity and variety of pattern (missed hole, brocade, plain weave)
A greater number of tablets are required to achieve complexity without loosing pattern definition.
Previously woven or acquired bands may have been referenced in the creation of new work (Ovre Berge and Snartemo V).
Most complex bands required a minimum of 3 - 4 different coloured yarns for warp and supplemental wefts. Red, blue and yellow were favoured.
Repetition of small patterns (diamonds, crosses, diagonals) are often used to frame larger motifs.
Problems I need to solve:
Skill Development. I need to learn to weave complex designs without the assistance of modern patterns. No graphing on paper, no reference drawings, no turning sequences… nothing.
Historically Appropriate Tools and Materials. I need to be confident working with Viking Age tablet weaving materials and equipment. No plastic tablet weaving tablets with painted edges, no shuttles, no inkle looms, no commercial wool or synthetic dyes.
Cultural Significance. I need to be familiar with popular symbols, woven bands and weaving techniques from 9th Century Norway - particularly those common within Vestfold.
Band 1.
This band is full of basic errors. It measures to … cm and contains … different designs; some of these are successful, some are not. This band required 16 pattern tablets with 2 threads per tablet (yellow/orange), 2 border tablets with 4 threads per tablet (all yellow), and foolishly, 2 border tablets with 3 threads per tablet (yellow/orange/orange). I used a backstrap loom with a two hole set up with my handspun, hand dyed, 2 ply Gotland wool yarn (excess from early attempts at plying and plant dyeing).
I'm very happy with my first, unassisted attempt!
Things that worked:
My early handspun is strong! Only 2 warp threads broke whilst weaving.
I warped this band around two trees whilst on a living history camp. This worked surprisingly well!
My backstrap setup was portable, easy to work with and I was able to easily lock the tablets with yarn, rather than a modern pin.
Bilateral symmetry is much easier than radial symmetry. The most successful symbols I was able to create were variations of diamonds (♢) and crosses (X).
The segmentation of the symbols with the ornate borders is really effective!
Things that didn’t work:
I ran out of yarn for my two outermost border tablets… as expected, this made it difficult to unweave and troubleshoot as they fell out of rotation often.
Asymmetrical symbols require much more concentration and experience than I currently have.
I can’t really say that I’ve created a unique symbol - they are very common, basic symbols.
The plain fields of colour surrounding my designs do not look like those from Viking Age Vestfold. They are closer to Baltic or Hochdorf examples.
Band 2.
This band was completed with an unusual threading of the tablets. It measures to … cm and contains … different symbols. This band required 6 border tablets, threaded with 4 threads per tablet, and 20 pattern tablets, threaded with three threads per tablet. Based on the missed hole technique, I threaded each pattern tablet with two orange threads (A, B), one yellow (C) and an empty hole (D). I also hoped to test the theory that I would be able to draft a pattern using Band 1 as a reference. I used a backstrap loom with the same handspun, hand dyed, 2 ply Gotland wool yarn for warp and weft.
Things that worked:
I really liked the increased width of the band.
The 3/1 broken twill created a great texture and ground weave.
From my understanding, this is not the typical missed hole set up. I deliberately assigned the thread position to be orange-orange-yellow, rather than the typical orange-yellow-orange threading of common 3/1 broken twill. This allowed me to transfer my new found understanding of two hole pattern design to this band.
Things that didn’t work:
I thought 20 pattern tablets (5 packs of 4 tablets) would make it easier to design balanced symbols, but it was counterintuitive.
I was able to add additional elements to the basic symbols I created in Band 1 - although, it was difficult to work 1:1 with my two hole band.
Band 3.
I returned to the two hole technique to create this band. It measures to … cm and contains … different symbols. This band required 2 border tablets, threaded with 4 threads per tablet, and 24 pattern tablets, threaded with two threads per tablet. I also hoped to test the theory that I would be able to draft a pattern using Band 1 as a reference.
Things that worked:
Practice has improved my weaving! I was able to weave some more complex motifs
24 pattern tablets is optimal for design - well balanced and robust enough for complex symbols
I was finally able to include areas of woollen brocade!
Things that didn’t work:
I'm not happy with the pebble weave ground texture. It's pretty but it's not typical of the region. Towards the end of the band I started to "block out" the undesired colour by passing my weft over these warp threads.
Unsurprisingly, I have not found a single surviving record of patterning for tablet woven designs from the Viking Age (793 - 1066 AD). We have a few written notations for brocaded patterns, but these examples are hundreds of years outside of my period of focus. A German manuscript (Cod. Pal. Germ. 551) dated to the mid 15th Century by the Germanisches Nationalmuseum (Nűrnberg) includes three hundred different patterns for brocaded silk bands. Numerals, Arabic and Roman, are used to linearly draft the designs for brocade in a sort of binary code. Anna Neuper's early 16th Century manuscript (Cod. Guelf. 57 Aug.80) from the Herzog-August Library in Wolfbüttel (Germany) is another commonly cited source of handwritten patterns for silk brocaded bands. Neuper also uses Roman numerals in her personal notation.
How were the intricate designs drafted in the Viking Age? An amateur tablet weaver would not require a reference for simple motifs (chevrons, diamonds, crosses, S chains). These types of designs are easily constructed with the diagonal twill produced with the twisting of the tablets. I don't think it is a stretch to assume that the complexities of these symbols would have increased with experience and repetition. A close study of extant designs seem to suggest the use of visual reference for complex bands, even if no physical evidence of this method exists today.
Through the analysis of the types of defects that are visible in some key archaeological examples, Lise Raeder Knudsen believes the use of some form of recipe or pattern may have been common practice. Ræder Knudsen (2004) suggests that some symmetrical irregularities between bands found at remarkably different burial sites may allude to the practice of observational ...
Many of the designs below incorporate a diverse range of techniques (brocade, soumak, 2 hole, missed hole), very minimal repetition of specific symbols, anthropomorphic characters, radial and bilateral symmetry, and complex compositions with minimal evidence of error.
This band is an elaborate, tablet woven ribbon recovered from the Oseberg Ship Burial in Vestfold, Norway. It is woven with fine wool warp, linen weft and embroidered silk accents (brocade and soumak). The extant band survives as two fragments on display at the Museum of Cultural History, Oslo.
There are two popular versions of this pattern, created by Bente Skogsaas and another, by Randi Stolz. Shelagh Lewins also offers an technical analysis of the fragments.
Appealing characteristics:
Historically and geographically significant for my persona
Combination of techniques (brocade, soumak, missed hole)
Large symbols are separated by textured sections with simple symbols
The same mistake can be found on the Øvre Berge tablet woven band.
Bargmann, U. (2002). Woven Bands, Medicines and Recipes: Cod. Pal. Germ. 551. The Adventures, Provenance and Contents of a 15th Century Manuscript Held at the Library of Heidelberg University in Germany. Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings, 372. Retrieved from https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1371&context=tsaconf&fbclid=IwAR0FDkXrjU_x_Vt5t3qgrwGE9RnqW71190zTd55vZbYOutG82xLt7rld4S8
Dedkam, H. (1925). To tekstilfund fra folkevandringstiden: Evebø og Snartemo. Bergens Museums Aarbok: ArKeloish Musum I Stravanger Biblioteket. Retrieved from https://www.nb.no/items/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2015101306009
L'Atelier de Micky. (2013). Galon de Bathilde de Chelles. Retrieved from
https://mickytissages.wordpress.com/2013/01/26/galon-de-bathilde-de-chelles/
Lewins, S. (2003). A Brocaded Band from the Oseberg Ship Burial. Retrieved from
https://www.shelaghlewins.com/tablet_weaving/Oseberg_brocade/Oseberg_brocade.htm
Stoltz, R. (n.d.). Øvre Berge. Retrieved from http://www.randistoltz.com/
Ræder Knudsen, L. (2004). Written Patterns in early tablet weaving, Acta Archaeologica Lodziensia, 50(1), 121-127.Retrieved from http://bazhum.muzhp.pl/media/files/Acta_Archaeologica_Lodziensia/Acta_Archaeologica_Lodziensia-r2004-t- n50_1/Acta_Archaeologica_Lodziensia-r2004-t-n50_1-s121-127/Acta_Archaeologica_Lodziensia-r2004-t-n50_1-s121-127.pdf
Last Updated 8 October 2020