After a period of successful ministry in Ephesus, Paul's plan was to revisit Macedonia and Achaia and then return to Jerusalem. Luke's account then has Paul say, "After I have been there,... I must visit Rome also." (NIV) It is hardly surprising that Paul, a Roman citizen and 'apostle to the Gentiles', would want to extend his ministry to the very heart of the empire.
This desire to visit Rome is underscored by a promise from the Lord, in the midst of severe opposition from the religious leaders in Jerusalem: "Take courage! As you have testified about me in Jerusalem, so you must also testify in Rome." (NIV)
Paul's journey to Rome was, of course, as a prisoner. Festus, the new Roman Governor resident in Caesarea Maratima, suggested that Paul be returned to Jerusalem for trial by the Jewish leaders. Paul knew that he could expect no impartial justice in that setting, and so he exercised his right, as a Roman citizen, and appealed to have his case heard by the emperor, in Rome. Acts 28:14ff recounts Paul's arrival in Rome and the beginnings of his ministry there. The book of Acts concludes with the matter of Paul's trial unresolved.
Acts 2:10 - records the fact that there were Jews from Rome in Jerusalem on the Day of Pentecost, when the Holy Spirit came upon the believers in a new way.
Acts 18:2 - When Paul arrived in Corinth he supported himself by means of his trade as a 'tentmaker', living and working with Aquila and Priscilla. The text accounts for their presence in Corinth by noting that they, along with all the Jews, had been expelled from Rome by order of the emperor, Claudius Caesar.
Romans - This is Paul's longest surviving letter and often regarded as conveying Paul's 'mature thought' concerning the nature of the Gospel. The letter is written to a church that he had neither founded, nor visited. Chapter 16, however, demonstrates his extensive connections with, and intimate knowledge of, many of the people who made up that fellowship.
2 Timothy 1:16-18 - When writing to Timothy, Paul commends Onesiphorus who had come to Rome and "searched hard for me until he found me." (NIV)
1 Maccabees 8; 12; 14 - Rome, in its republican form, was courted as an ally in the Jewish struggle for independence in the time between the testaments. A very different political climate to that which forms the backdrop of the New Testament period: Imperial Rome.
The first time I visited Rome was on a holiday, with my wife Suzanne, after the first official study tour of biblical sites in Greece and Turkey. This was before it had entered my head to intentionally try to visit every site associated with St Paul. That desire probably took shape as a consequence of the journey that included my second visit to Rome. After the second official study tour, Wilfred had asked whether I would like to join him following Paul's route from Malta to Rome: this visit would be far more purposeful.
Rome is, of course, a tourist destination in its own right with a great many options to explore, across many historical periods. The notes below, however, focus solely on sites and locations that have a connection with Paul, even if only in extra-biblical tradition.
Wilfred particularly wanted to visit Paul's traditional last resting place, so that was our first visit before he had to depart for his return to Athens. So the large and impressive Basilica Papale San Paolo fuori le Mura (Basilica of Paul Outside the Walls), was our first port of call. It was a dull day with dark clouds and the sun catching on the golden façade above the entrance was stunning. Exquisitely decorated inside, the main focus of our visit was the exposed sarcophagus believed to hold the bones of St Paul. Radiocarbon dating had given that claim additional credence the year before we visited. See here.
We had also hoped to visit the Mamertine Prison, the place of Peter's final imprisonment but, when we did track it down, it was closed! The signage at the site also associates Paul with this prison, although there is no evidence to support that claim.
The next day I was on my own and, with the help of public transport, made my way to the traditional place of Paul's martyrdom. San Paolo alle Tre Fontane is named for the three fountains (springs) which are said to have burst forth where Paul's severed head bounced after his execution! Inside the church are multiple depictions of the scene, including in paintings and a large marble relief (sans sword blade, it seems). On display in one corner is the column stub on which, it is claimed, Paul's neck was rested as the sword descended.
Later, after a lot of walking, I managed to find a section of the via Appia. While the route will probably have remained largely unchanged from the time of Paul, depending on where you are, the road surface has almost certainly been renewed since then, and possibly more than once! I later discovered that part of the route of via Appia Antica can be followed here and that a section of the ancient road (still probably resurfaced after Paul's time) is visible under the glass floor of a McDonald's restaurant here!
My final visit was to Chiesa San Paolo alla Regola. I had read, here, of a tradition associating this church with Paul's first residence, under house arrest, in Rome. The additional association with the letter to Philemon made this an interesting visit. Unfortunately, when I did manage to track it down it was undergoing restoration and I was not able to see the mosaic referenced in the article linked above.
Here, as in many other places, Paul is typically depicted holding a sword and a book. The book represents Paul's extensive contribution to the New Testament and the sword represents his death by beheading.
Click here for a Google Earth view of Rome.
The via Appia, ran from the forum of Rome to the port of Brindisi in the south east, some 60+ kilometres.
Extensive sections are still accessible, but where there may be any dating from the 1st Century AD is unknown to me!
A section of the ancient road (probably resurfaced after Paul's time) is visible under the glass floor of a McDonald's restaurant at this location.
Note just west there is a walking track along the route of the ancient road.
Was the letter to Philemon written under house arrest on this site?
St Paul at the Three Fountains, one of three churches at Tre Fontane Abbey, is traditionally associated with the martydom of Paul.
A sarcophagus in the crypt of the Basilica of St Paul Outside the Walls is recognised as the last resting place of the bones of St Paul. His head, however, is said to be at the Archbasilica of Saint John Lateran!
There is no evidence that Paul was incarcerated here, but it is well attested as the place from which Peter was martyred.