Ephesus was a very important city in Paul's day; one with an already significant and glorious past. The great Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, was just over the hill to the north and of great importance to the city.
Paul's first recorded visit was very short, but he did express the hope to return "if God wills." (Acts 18:21 NIV)
In Paul's day Ephesus was an extremely important centre of trade and boasted a population in the order of 250,000, so it is no surprise that it eventually became the focus of a longer stay. Paul's lengthy period of ministry in Ephesus is very likely responsible for the establishment of many churches throughout Asia Minor.
It is expressly noted that Paul wanted to by-pass Ephesus on his journey to Jerusalem but did want to meet wit the elders of the church. That meeting took place in Miletus.
In his correspondence with the church in Corinth, Paul notes that at some stage he "fought with wild animals at Ephesus". If this is to be read literally, that would probably place him in the theatre at Ephesus, which was used for such spectacles.
1 Timothy 1:3
2 Timothy 1:18; 4:12
Revelation 1:11; 2:1-11
I have visited Ephesus on four occasions, each time as part of a Salvation Army Study tour. Some features of the current archaeological site had not been built in Paul's day (e.g the Library of Celsus) and others were still under construction (e.g. the theatre). Obviously the Christian basilicas date from a later time.
The extensive and impressive remains of the city draw many visitors. If there is a cruise ship or two in Kuşadası, the nearby modern port, at the time of your visit, you can expect Ephesus to be very crowded indeed. The coordinates given below are based on a visit starting at the eastern gate and meandering downhill through the city.
There is a great deal to see, so plan for a lengthy visit.
Click here for a Google Earth view of the extensive site.
The eastern entrance to the archaeological site of Ephesus. Entering at this gate makes for a down hill walk through the city. The order of coordinates given below assume this direction of travel.
Unlike their larger cousins, Graeco-Roman theatres, Odeons were roofed over, creating an indoor place for musical performances etc. This Odeon dates from after Paul's time.
The Odeon also functioned as the Bouleuterion, a sort of 'city hall'. At this location a fine statue of Artemis was discovered, which is now housed in the Archaeological Museum of Ephesus. See below.
Below left: Odeon of Ephesus Photo: 22 May 2010
As the name suggests, the State Agora was a space for state occasions, in contrast to the business focus of the Commercial Agora closer to the harbour.
Above right: Looking from the top of the Odeon across the State Agora towards the vaults which supported the Temple of Domitian. Photo: 22 May 2010
Vaults supporting the platform on which the
The extensive excavations of Roman dwellings, under a protective roof, are truly impressive. The structure, visible plumbing, and both frescoes and decorative mosaics provide an amazing insight into Roman life. There is an extra cost to enter the enclosure but is is well worthwhile.
Below left: Inside the Houses on the Slope.
Photo: 22 May 2010
When I first visited Ephesus we were able to get a photo in situ, so to speak. That is not possible now as the latrines have been roped off.
Above right: Latrines at Ephesus. Photo: 14 Sep 2008
The library was constructed after Paul's time so was not a feature of the city when he was there. Photo: 8 Sep 2013
These monumental gateways give access from the forecourt of the library through into the commercial agora.
Photo: 8 Sep 2013
This was very probably where Demetrius, the silversmith, plied his trade. Both the commercial nature of the site and its proximity to the Theatre, the focus of the upheaval of Acts 19, suggest this very strongly. Photo: 9 Jun 2013
Watch closely along the left side of the road from the Library to the Theatre for an etching in the pavement which apparently gives directions to the 'house of love'!
Below left: Pictographic advertising? Photo: 11 Jun 2012
A very impressive feature of the Ephesus site this large theatre was not complete in Paul's day - the upper levels of the cavea were still under construction. Its present capacity of 25,000 suggests a city population in the order of 250,000.
Above right: View of the theatre from the Arcadian Way, the road from the harbour. Photo: 11 Jun 2012
The road which runs from the location of the theatre towards the ancient harbour. The harbour, of course, is now silted up but the road is closed off and the site of the harbour is not accessible.
Below left: View along the Arcadian Way towards the location of the ancient harbour. Photo: 11 Jun 2012
The baths themselves are inaccessible but some of the unstable looking remains are visible above the trees to the right of the Arcadian Way.
Above right: Teetering remains of the Harbour Baths to the north of the Arcadian Way. Photo: 11 Jun 2012
The remains of the harbour are inaccessible but its outline is clearly visible, in satellite view, on the map at left.
This Church played an important role in Christian history as the location for the the Third Ecumenical Council (431 AD) and the so-called Robber Council of 449 AD.
Exit here if you don't have to walk back up through the city to your vehicle!
The site of the great Temple of Artemis is now little more than a relatively small open space with one, very poorly, reconstructed column. In fact, it is not really a reconstructed column: more an untidy stack of mismatched column drums!
Of course, the site itself remains significant.
Below left: The single 'remaining column' of the great temple of Artemis. Photo: 11 Jun 2012
The remains of a large basilica, which includes what is claimed to be the last resting place of John the Apostle. John is the only apostle presented in Church tradition as dying of old age rather than by martyrdom.
Above right: Remains of the Basilica of St John with a Byzantine fortress in the background. Photo: 13 Sep 2008
Car park and information centre adjacent to the museum.
I was able visit the museum in 2010. When I next visited in 2012 it was closed and being remodelled. I have not been able to visit the new version. It was well worth the visit in 2010 so I can only imagine it is even better now.