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Day Two: Arrival
Day Two: Arrival
We were met on arrival by Savvas Papasavvas, the agent for Amphitrion Tours, and taken directly to the centre of Athens.
As we made our way into town, I think every one of us was staring out the windows of the coach soaking in the sight of unfamiliar landscapes, unfamiliar architecture and the unfamiliar view from the right hand side of the road. Craning necks and active cameras were busy trying to take it all in. At one point there was a fleeting and distant glimpse of the 2004 Olympic Stadium, apparently already fallen into disuse.
Our immediate destination was the Hotel Evripides. The street was too narrow for our coach so we had to disembark close by and carry, or drag, our luggage from the drop point. Neither the hotel, nor the immediate neighbourhood, were very salubrious but we didn’t much care after a day and a bit "in the air"!
Before getting some sleep, we did manage a quick stroll down to the Plaka, with its plethora of stalls and restaurants, to get the flavour of the city and a bite to eat. In doing so, we got our first glimpse of the Acropolis of Athens from the corner of Athinas and Ermou Streets.
I don't know what I had expected, but suddenly catching a glimpse of these significant monuments, right there, in the middle of town, was a bit of a mind-blowing moment. The sudden realisation that people continued to go about the daily business of life, quite literally in the shadow of this historic place, significantly heightened my sense of anticipation for what was to follow.
Above left: The sign was just about the flashest part of the Hotel Evripides! Above right: The Acropolis of Athens from the corner of Athinas and Ermou, with David & Margaret Bateman and Wendy Barney.
Photos: 3 Sep 2008
Below: The Hotel Evripides redeemed itself, a little, by providing a delightful view of the Acropolis, to accompany breakfast on the roof. With Andrew and Sue Hay.
Photo: 4 Sep 2008
Day Three: Corinth
Day Three: Corinth
The next morning there was a sense of excitement among the group as we headed off to get our first close-up look at the world of the New Testament, at the archaeological site of ancient Corinth. The first business of the morning was to meet our driver for the day and our guide, who would be with us for the rest of our time in mainland Greece. Eva was a diminutive woman... in stature only! Her forthright personality and fierce pride in everything Greek would become more and more evident to us over the coming days.
Our first stop was at the bridge over the Corinth Canal. The canal, less than seven kilometres long, shortens the treacherous sea voyage around the Peloponnese, by some 700 kilometres! The idea of a canal had been discussed as early as 700 BCE, and many times subsequently. The Roman emperor Nero even made a start but the dream did not become a reality until late in the nineteenth-century.
The café at the canal viewing point became the first of the many 'commercial' stops we would make on our travels. Here, Wilfred purchased, and distributed to the team, copies of a book outlining Paul's travels. It was a valuable resource, eagerly perused throughout our journey.
Above left: The Corinth Canal, a 19th century engineering marvel. Above right: 6thC BC Temple of Apollo at Corinth archaeological site.
Photos: 4 Sep 2008
By the time we arrived at Corinth the day was warm, with the sun high in a cloudless sky. Eva took us on an anti-clockwise tour through the site, sharing facts and historical detail as we stopped by various items of interest.
The most prominent feature on the site is the sixth-century BCE Temple of Apollo, with it's seven standing columns and sections of epistyle (lintels) still in place. It is amazing to think that these columns have remained standing, albeit buried for a time, for around 2500 years!
Near the north-west corner of the forum there is one arch remaining from what was probably a combined residence and place of commerce. Was it in a location like this that Paul plied his trade as a tentmaker alongside Priscilla and Aquila? (Acts 18:1-3) On the other side of the forum is another significant monument: the remains of the Bema where the local Jewish leaders made their accusations against Paul before Gallio, the proconsul of Achaia. (Acts 18:12-17).
Above left: An arch of a commercial building of the Forum with the Temple of Apollo behind. Above right: The Bema - Paul stood before Gallio here.
Photos: 2 Jun 2012
To the north of the Bema a walkway leads past the Fountain of Priene on the right, down some modern steps, to the Lechaion Road. On the left, at the northern extremity of the excavated area, is the believed site of the Synagogue. It is almost certain that this was the very place where "Every Sabbath [Paul] reasoned in the synagogue, trying to persuade Jews and Greeks." (Acts 18:4, NIV) This site was identified based on the discovery of artefacts that are now on display in the museum, which is also on the site.
Above left: Cracked pot near the Priene Fountain (Photo: 4 Sep 2008); Lechaion Road with Acrocorinth behind .
Below left: Inscription referring to the "Synagogue of the Hebrews" Below right: Menorah relief.
Photos: 4 Sep 2008, except Lechaion Road, 2 Jun 2012
After departing the archaeological site, the coach took us up to the gates of the Byzantine fortress on Acrocorinth. It was a steep walk up through the massive stone walls to a spot, overlooking the Gulf of Corinth, where we shared devotions together. The vista was spectacular (see the banner image above) and the opportunity to reflect on Scripture in such a location was very special.
That was not the end of our day. On the way back to Athens we had our second "commercial" stop: a ceramics factory. The promise of free shipping back to New Zealand wasn't enough to tempt me! As far as I was concerned, although there were many interesting objects on display, all the stop did was reduce the amount of time available for exploring Athens during the afternoon!
Once back in Athens, with one of the local tourist maps in hand, Suzanne and I found our way around the eastern side of the acropolis. Proceeding south from Syntagma Square, where we witnessed the changing of the Presidential Guard, we stumbled on an Anglican Church (The Reverend Bradshaw presiding!) which seemed something of an anachronism, the Zappeion building associated with the botanical gardens, the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Hadrian's Arch. All this was just an appetiser for what was yet to come of the main sites of Athens.
Day Four: Athens
Day Four: Athens
The following day the progress of our tour was halted unexpectedly...
As we were climbing up the stepped path on the south west side of the Acropolis of Athens, Lyn Buttar fell to the ground! We had two nurses in our group who were quickly at his side. With their assistance, and after a short rest, Lyn was soon back on his feet again. However, his recovery was short-lived and after only a few more metres he collapsed again. This time it was obvious there would be no quick recovery. Our guide rang for an ambulance and I simply stood casting my shadow, providing some protection from the already hot sun, and praying silently, as the nurses tended to him again.
Before the ambulance could arrive another group came up the path. There was a doctor among them and, as she got to work, I started chatting with one of her companions: they were Buddhists from Austria. It has always struck me as quite a compelling picture: Austrian Buddhists meeting Kiwi Christians on the steps of a pagan temple in the city that is the cradle of Western democracy!
When I told him we were Christians from New Zealand my new acquaintance immediately began speaking of our journey as a pilgrimage and told me of three things highly valued by Buddhists when on pilgrimage: to lose your luggage, to become ill and… to die! At that stage I was really hoping that Lyn was not able to hear our conversation!
Up until then, I hadn't really thought of our journey as a pilgrimage. A 'study tour', yes, but a 'pilgrimage'? It was food for thought.
When Lyn was finally on his way to hospital, with Wilfred at his side, all we could do was pray and continue with our tour. Eva, our wiry and very informative guide, escorted us up to the Acropolis and introduced us to the history and significance of the site.
Proceeding up the massive steps, the towering columns of the Propylaea (monumental gateway) drew so much of my attention that I almost missed the Temple of Athena Nike, goddess of victory, high to the right. Once through the gateway, the first sight of the Parthenon was so imposing that the Erectheion, with its graceful standing Caryatids, and the adjacent Tomb of Kekrops, impressive monuments in themselves, simply paled into insignificance.
Something of a surprise was the amount of reconstruction work going on. The Propylaea was heavily draped in scaffolding, as was the Parthenon itself. Huge blocks of white marble were waiting to be hoisted into position by massive cranes. Was it just an elaborate plot to tempt me back in a few year's time to see it completed? That probably wasn't the intention but,...
Above left: The Parthenon, Acropolis of Athens. Above right: Overlooking Athens from the polished marble of Mars Hill
Photo: 5 Sep 2008 and 14 May 2010
From a Biblical Study Tour perspective, however, the opportunity to stand on Mars Hill ( the Areopagus) was even more significant. Here, Paul had commended the Athenians for their religious fervour and introduced them to the God they did not yet know, the Lord of heaven and earth, the God present in Jesus of Nazareth who was raised from the dead, for us and for our salvation! (Acts 17:22-31)
Some claim that Paul's ministry in Athens was ineffective but that has always seemed unfair, to me. Luke does not tell us the ongoing story of Dionysius, Damaris, and the "others", who were saved that day. (Acts 17:34) Given those conversions, however, and the invitation to speak again, Paul's apparent haste to move on could hardly have been for lack of success or further opportunity.
Sharing devotions on this bare but significant prominence brought our time in Athens to an end. After a quick driving tour around some of the sites of modern Athens we were on the road north to Kalambaka.
Kalambaka is a delightful little town nestled beneath the towering sandstone rock massifs of Meteora. After the Hotel Evripides in Athens we were pleasantly surprised by the Hotel Famissi with its sparkling foyer and dining room. The better quality rooms were a welcome sight after a long day on the road.
Day Five: Meteora and Veria
Day Five: Meteora and Veria
The next day we visited Meteora itself. Originally these massive stone pillars were the retreat places of lone hermits who occupied caves and cracks in the rocks. In about the fourteenth-century, communities formed and began the construction of the monasteries which remain centres of Christian worship and devotion to this day. Not surprisingly, recruitment has become more difficult in today's world and, at the time of our visit, only six of the original twenty-four monasteries were still occupied.
Which of the monasteries will be open to visitors depends on the day of the week. We were there for visits to the monasteries of Varlaam and St Stephanos. The steps up to the Monastery of Varlaam seemed never-ending: the ascent underscoring the feat of vision, strength and perseverance required to haul every brick, board and nail up these impressive heights. Bringing in supplies is a lot easier now with an electric motor on the windlass and a cable way across the chasm dividing the pinnacle from the 'mainland'.
The frescoes and other religious art, of varying ages, were quite stunning. Depictions of biblical stories and figures of church history were everywhere. Unfortunately, photography was not permitted in the most highly decorated chapels.
One of the interesting features of the Monastery of St Stephanos (now actually a nunnery) was the evidence that not everyone appreciates or respects religious art. Many of the frescoes were pockmarked with bullet holes from the Second World War and the Greek Civil war that followed.
Above left: Monastery of St Stephanos with Kalambaka below. Above right: Ceiling inlay, Monastery of Varlaam.
Below left: View up to the Monastery of Varlaam. (Note the tiny figures of visitors climbing the steps.) Below right: Lunch below Meteora, with Margaret Bateman and Suzanne Stevenson.
Photos: 6 Sep 2008
After the visits we stopped in at an icon factory: the process was interesting but I'm not sure that any of us parted with any money. More enjoyable was the glorious view from our lunch stop and we were suitably refreshed for the onward journey to Veria.
Top: Paul Memorial at Veria. Above left: The left panel of the memorial depicts Paul receiving the "Macedonian Call". Above right: The right panel depicts Paul preaching to the Jews of Veria. Note the open scrolls, and the book on the steps, as they examine the Scriptures to check Paul's message.
Below left: Central mosaic of Paul, above the 'original' steps on which he is said to have delivered his message. Below right: A second, smaller, memorial mosaic, on the same site but to the left of the main structure.
Photos: 6 Sep 2008
Day Six: Thessaloniki
Day Six: Thessaloniki
Like Athens, Thessaloniki has occupied the same site since ancient times and much of the past remains buried under the streets of the modern city. Consequently, without much to see in terms of biblical history, our visit focused on the Basilica of St Demetrius, a brief driving tour of the city, and a meeting with the recently planted Salvation Army in Greece.
Wilfred was able to rejoin us in Thessaloniki, even though Lyn remained in hospital in Athens a little longer. We couldn't be quite sure whether Wilfred was impressed, or disappointed, that we had been able to carry on so happily without him!
At the Basilica of St Demetrius, I had my first direct experience of Eastern Orthodox Christianity. The imposing golden mosaic dome of the apse, venerated icons, the smoke from thickets of small candles and the sacramental liturgy (which I was able observe from above in the balcony): I was fascinated by all these elements of a style of Christian worship that has remained largely unchanged for over a thousand years.
Above left: Mosaic of St Demetrius of Thessaloniki. Above right: Eastern Orthodox liturgy in progress, from the gallery of the Basilica.
Photos: 7 Sep 2008
While our minds had been firmly focused in the past, we were pleasantly jolted back to the present as Captains Polis Pantelidis and Maria Konte-Galinou shared with us the story of their pioneering work in Greece. The gospel that had taken root in Thessalonica under the ministry of Paul and Silas, despite intense opposition, was taking root again, in a new form, the form of Ο Στρατός της Σωτηρίας (The Salvation Army). Sharing worship and fellowship with those involved in this fledgling work was a blessing to all of us.
The contrast between this and our earlier experience of worship at the Basilica of St Demetrius couldn’t have been more stark. Having said that, it was also a magnificent picture of the unity in diversity that is the Church of Jesus Christ across the world and throughout history.
Above left: Captains Polis Pantelidis and Maria Konte-Galinou, pioneer officers of the work of The Salvation Army in , Thessaloniki. Above right: The modern port of Kavala, the Neapolis of Acts 16:11
Photos: 7 Sep 2008
That afternoon we continued our journey, eastward to Kavala, a small seaside town with a very active port. Our hotel balcony presented us with a glorious view over the sparkling waters with a variety of vessels hurrying to and fro.
It was relatively easy to picture this as it was: Neapolis, where Paul and Silas stepped ashore in Europe for the first time. Another magnificent mosaic outside a local church, just a short walk from our hotel, depicts Paul’s “Macedonian Call” and his subsequent arrival in this very port.
Here, the good news about Jesus Christ spread from Asia into Europe: the beginning of Christianity in ‘the west’.
Day Seven: Baptistery of Lydia and Philippi
Day Seven: Baptistery of Lydia and Philippi
The next morning we followed the same route as Paul and Silas over the hill to Philippi. Our first stop, however, was the beautiful Baptistery of Lydia.
On the Sabbath, because there was no synagogue in Philippi, Paul and Silas had ventured outside the city, probably to the banks of the Krenides River, to the place where he expected to find the Jews of the city meeting. (Acts 16:13) The modern baptistery, on that same river, is a beautiful memorial to the conversion and baptism of Lydia, the first convert of Paul’s ministry in Europe.
The shining white marble interior of the building is interrupted only by the glittering mosaics surrounding the altar, in the dome and adorning the walls. Fittingly in a baptistery dedicated to Lydia, four of the twelve saints depicted around the walls are women: Poiseidonia, Irene, Xenia and Paraskevi.
Above left: Fresco of Lydia in the foyer of the Baptistery. Above right: Fresco of Paul in the foyer of the Baptistery.
Photos: 8 Sep 2008
Outside, the Krenides River (more of a stream, really), had been tamed into a concrete channel, especially formed to facilitate adult baptisms. Tiered seating provided a very convenient location for sharing devotions together: it was a beautiful setting for honouring Lydia and remembering this very significant moment in the history of Christianity.
Above left: Mosaic, in the dome of the Baptistery of Lydia, depicting the baptism of Jesus. Above right: Tanya Dunn leads devotions by the Krenides River, Baptistery of Lydia.
Photos: 8 Sep 2008
A short distance away, at Philippi, we became more closely acquainted with some key elements of cities of the Roman world. The expanse of the Roman forum (formerly the agora of the Greek period), with standing columns along its south western edge, made it easy to picture a bustling commercial scene. The latrines, behind the remains of Basilica B ( ca. 550 A.D.), provided a slightly different insight into life in the ancient world!
Above left: Looking across the forum with it's standing columns. (Basilica B, left rear.) Above right: Inspecting the latrines of Philippi.
Photos: 8 Sep 2008
While earlier, in Athens, we had been able to look down into the impressive Odeon of Herodes Atticus, in Philippi we had our first opportunity to experience the amazing acoustics of a Graeco-Roman theatre. Whether sitting in the cavea (the curved rows of seating) listening to someone speaking from the 'sweet spot' in the orchestra (the flat circular area) or speaking to the empty rows from the orchestra, the carriage of sound was truly remarkable. What started as a Greek theatre had been modified in the Roman period to accommodate gladiatorial spectacles, including the ability to flood the orchestra to stage mock sea battles!
The theatre at Philippi.
Photo: 8 Sep 2008
Philippi was our last site visit in mainland Greece. That afternoon we drove on to Alexandroupolis, little more than a staging point for crossing the border into Turkey, the next day. After dinner at the Hotel Nefeli, we said our farewells to Eva and Spiros, our driver since leaving Athens.
Lyn rejoined us at Alexandroupolis, so we were all back together for the journey to Gallipoli, and the Seven Churches of the Revelation. The story of the Turkish leg of our journey follows here...
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