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Corinth
Corinth
At some sites, such as Corinth, about the only difference between the first and second official tours was the images I managed to capture.
Sometimes it was the same features from a different angle. Above left is the Temple of Apollo from the north east, with Acrocorinth in the background. Above right is, again, looking towards Acrocorinth but from beside the synagogue area at the northern end of the Lechaion Road. Photos: 13 May 2010
At other times it was something I had not been able to observe before. In 2008 we really only saw what the guide showed us. After a bit of internet research there were other things I wanted to see.
To the left is the remains of the Odeon, located below the car park and behind a fence. It does not get much attention from visitors.
Further down the hill are the scant remains of the theatre. It is next to this theatre that the 'Erastus Inscription' is located. Perhaps I'll get to see that another time?
Photo: 13 May 2010
Athens
Athens
After the half day visit to Corinth we were free to explore Athens. The ticket for the Acropolis of Athens comes bundled with a range of other entry tickets: the ancient agora, the theatre of Dionysus, the Roman agora, Keremaikos, the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Hadrian's Library. There wasn't time to do them all justice but with a bit of brisk walking I might be able to see a few.
Above (left to right): Temple of Hephaestos near the ancient agora, Roman statuary (Emperor Hadrian), the Tower of Winds in the Roman agora - an early combined time piece and weather station!
All photos: 13 May 2010
Below: The Theatre of Dionysus under the south walls of the acropolis. Remains of the cavea to the left, part of the orchestra and the decorated 'scene' to the right.
Wilfred and I also managed to take the funicular to the top of Mount Lycabettus to catch the sunset. Lycabettus is the highest point in Athens, with commanding views all around the city.
Left: The Acropolis of Athens from Mount Lycabettus with the Saronic Gulf to the south.
Photo: 13 May 2010
The next morning, after visiting the acropolis itself, we made a brief stop at the entrance to the Acropolis Museum, which had only opened to the public the previous June.
I had to leave further exploration for another time, but it was intriguing to note the archaeological remains over which the whole complex was built.
Excavate just about anywhere in Greece, let alone central Athens, and this is what you're likely to find. The architectural efforts to preserve the past were impressive.
Photo: 14 May 2010
Meteora
Meteora
The visit to Meteora was a little different - mainly because of the weather!
Photo: 15 May 2010
Photo: 6 September 2008
Needless to say, there were no cameras lining up to snap the the stunning view down into the valley. Mostly, because there was no view down into the valley: there was no view at all!!
Later, in the coach, I was able to crank up my laptop and show the travelers photographs from two years before. I'm still not sure if it wasn't a little bit cruel to show them what they had missed!
Veria
Veria
The journey on to Veria was interrupted by a police roadblock: we were forced to detour west of our intended route. This wasn't just inconvenient it proved to be a nightmare for Eva and Georgios. When you have a coach full of tourists, without any, er... 'facilities' on board, you really need to know where the next 'comfort stop' is! This seemed to cause them some stress until, by chance and to everybody's relief (one way or another), on a seemingly remote section of road, we happened upon a cafe.
There was an outdoor seating area, which looked a bit wet and windblown, and, right at the back of the property, an unusual looking building.
There were no clues on its outside, but a door on the side pushed open and all was revealed. With hindsight the exterior should have screamed "Orthodox Chapel" but,... in the back yard of a cafe??
Photo: 15 May 2010, by John Fitness
The walls were unfinished and bare on the inside, but the iconostasis was exquisite.
Eva was very helpful deciphering the Greek lettering on one icon in particular - it looked to me like Abraham's three angelic visitors (Genesis 18). Agia Triada, turned out to be the Holy Trinity: my first encounter with a version of Rublev's famous icon (middle left, below).
Photo: 15 May 2010
Thessaloniki
Thessaloniki
Thessaloniki is one of those locations which has been the site of human habitation for thousands of years: the city has been building on top of itself for centuries. Consequently in 2008, of the old city, we had seen the impressive Byzantine walls and the Basilica of St Demetrius. That was about it: nothing from the New Testament period.
On arrival, however, we were confronted by an active archaeological excavation. In fact, it was blocking the access to our hotel! As it turned out, the city was beginning to construct an underground rail system, beneath our street, and... when you dig in Greece... you begin uncovering history!
It was obvious it could take a while for the subway to be completed! Google Maps street view images in 2014 showed that it was still very much a work in progress four years later! As of May 2022 the street is sealed over (see 2019 images here) but further delays caused by the discovery of a section of the ancient via Egnatia, at the site of a proposed station in 2019, mean that the opening is now expected in November 2023.
Photos: 15 May 2010
Photos: 16 May 2010
Internet research between tours had also revealed that only a couple of blocks away from the Basilica of St Demetrius are the remains of the Roman forum. Why we had not visited this in 2008, when we had been so close, I do not know. It may not be hugely impressive, but at least it put us close to the New Testament period.
Below: The Roman forum.
Left: The Odeon adjacent to the forum.
It was good to meet up with Captains Polis and Maria again, to hear stories of lives changed and to get a sense of the progress made with establishing Ο ΣΤΡΑΤΟΣ ΤΗΣ ΣΩΤΕΡΙΑΣ (ho Stratos tēs Soterias, 'the Army of Salvation') in Greece.
It was great to see an Army flag proudly proclaiming the cleansing blood of Jesus and the purifying and empowering fire of the Holy Spirit in the language of the New Testament scriptures! (ΑΙΜΑ ΚΑΙ ΦΩΤΙΑ , 'Blood and Fire')
Photo: 16 May 2010, with Karen Fitness.
Neapolis
Neapolis
Kavala is a delightful port town, perfect for an overnight stay. Although, for us, it really functions as a dormitory gateway to Philippi, it does have attractions of its own.
We were in a different hotel, a little further from the bustling port, but still convenient enough for Wilfred and I to take an evening stroll to the 16th century Ottoman Aqueduct. It supplied water to Kavala until the early 20th century!
On the way we stumbled across (and sneaked into) a local cultural evening and took in the sights and sounds of Greek folk dance.
Photos: 16 May 2010
Baptistery of Lydia
Baptistery of Lydia
The Baptistery of Lydia has some impressive mosaics. The dome and the apse, which also features stained glass, are magnificent. Around the inside walls of the octagonal structure are a sequence of twelve full length mosaics: standing figures of saints of the Church.
Above the doors of the entrance way, too, are mosaic representations of significant figures from the story of the early Church, or with a particular connection to this site.
The central mosaic (above) depicts Mary, Jesus and the Apostle John. The medieval Greek script associated with each is as follows:
ΜΡ ΘΥ - an abbreviation derived from the first and last letters of of Μήτηρ (του) Θεου, "Mother of God")
IC XC - the first and last letters of Ιησούς Χριστός, Jesus Christ. The lines above the letters signify that this is a 'sacred' name.
Ο Α[gios] Ιωάννης - the Holy (Saint) John.
Jesus is holding the partial text of John 8:12. On the left, Ἐγώ εἰμι τὸ φῶς τοῦ κόσμου (I am the light of the world) and on the right, ὁ ἀκολουθῶν έμοι οὐ περιπα... (the [one] following me not walk...[in darkness]).
To the left of the central mosaic are representations of Silas, Lydia and Posidoneia (above).
Silas, of course, was Paul's travelling companion on the so-called Second Missionary Journey (Acts 15:40:).
Lydia is recognised as the first Christian convert in Europe. Note Lydia's outer garment. In Acts 16:14, Lydia is identified as πορφυρόπωλις, a 'seller of purple'. The 'purple' dye, obtained from marine snails, came in different shades. Lydia's outer garment, above, is rendered in the deep scarlet, or crimson, variety.
Within Greek Orthodoxy, Posidoneia is recognised as a "deaconess" of the early Church.
The mosaic on the right of the entrance way, depicts Timothy, Paul and Luke (below).
Timothy accompanied Paul from Lystra (Acts 16:1-3) and Luke seems to have travelled with them from Alexandria Troas, as is evidenced by the so-called 'we' passages. Many regard Luke's use of the first person plural as an indication of when he was part of the journeying group (See Acts 16:10ff), although some regard this as merely a literary device.
The almost bulbous crown and receding hairline, with just a little tuft of hair, is very characteristic of Greek iconographic depictions of Paul. You really can't miss him!
Paul is holding the partially obscured text of 1 Corinthians 13:1 Ἐὰν ταῖς γλώσσαις τῶν ἀνθρώπων λαλῶ καὶ τῶν ἀγγέλων (If with the tongues [the] of men I speak and of angels)
Philippi
Philippi
One feature, shown to us on both visits, is often presented to visitors as "Paul's Prison" (Right). Looking down into this exposed subterranean feature is supposed to evoke the "inner cell" in which Paul and Silas were incarcerated (Acts 16:24).
I wasn't convinced!
It wasn't just that I was sceptical that such a significant location could be so conveniently identified for 'pilgrims' following the biblical narrative. It had as much to do with the small sign, close by, that identified the cavern as a "cistern"! I suspect a previous guide had reoriented it, away from easy view, so as not to spoil a good story!
It's a good reminder to always be on the alert for more honest identification of features as the "traditional site of..."!
Photo 17 May 2010
The Philippi site is quite expansive. We had a little more time to wander around the site, so I was able to see various elements from different angles.
The expanse of the Roman Forum (above) is a prompt to the imagination: seeing this as a bustling centre of first-century city life and commerce.
Strange as it may seem, however, at least as significant for me was a strip of bare paving stones, running just below the modern road that bisects the archaeological site. This is the via Egnatia (Left), part of the great Roman road that ran from Rome to what would later be called Constantinople (modern Istanbul).
The massive system of roads that criss-crossed the Roman Empire was significant, not just for official communication and the speedy movement of armies, but it was over these same roads that the gospel spread throughout the known world.
Paul, in writing to the Galatians, says that Jesus came into the world "when the set time had fully come" (4:4, NIV). Whether it was in Paul's mind or not, socio-political developments in the 400 years between the last prophecy in the Old Testament and the coming of the long-promised Messiah meant that conditions were very favourable for the spread of the good news about Jesus.
First, koine (common) Greek had become the universal language of communication between different people groups, across a vast area.
Second, the pax Romana (Roman peace) may well have been established by overwhelming military power, but it did make travel and communication safer than at any previous time in history.
Third, the expansive network of roads facilitated travel, commerce, and the spread of (the good) news like never before.
Paul, and others like him, took advantage of these developments and, empowered by the Holy Spirit, took this message of reconciliation to "the ends of the earth".
After Philippi our route, again, continued east to overnight just outside Alexandroupolis. The next day would see us cross into Turkey, for the visit to Gallipoli, before continuing our New Testament focus. Click here to continue the journey...
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