Acts 20:15-38
Travelling from Greece back to Jerusalem, Paul "was in hurry to reach Jerusalem, if possible, by the day of Pentecost" (Acts 20:16). Paul wanted to address the elders of the church at Ephesus but to avoid the possibility of being delayed in that city he summoned them to Miletus and spoke to them there. His parting words grieved the elders because he expressed the doubt that they would ever see him again.
Interestingly, Paul's recorded speech at Miletus also includes a saying of Jesus that is not included in the gospel accounts: "It is more blessed to give than to receive. " (Acts 20:35)
Dr Mark Wilson explores issues related to the route of Paul's travel to Miletus and that of the Ephesian elders in meeting him there. His paper, The Ephesian elders come to Miletus: An Annaliste reading of Acts 20:15-18a can be accessed here.
In antiquity Miletus was situated on the northern tip of a promontory projecting into the Gulf of Latmus. On the northern coast of the gulf, approximately 15 km north of Miletus, stood the city of Priene. To the south (18 km) was Didyma, and its important shrine complex dedicated to Apollo. Miletus itself is now some 8.5 km from the coast since, over the centuries, the silt burden of the Meander River has turned the Gulf of Latmus into a fertile plain. The outline of the promontory is clearly visible in the Google Earth view linked below.
I had previously toyed with the idea of visiting Miletus, from Kuşadası, on a rest day of one of the official study tours in which I had participated. That would have been a journey of just over an hour (65 km) by private car.
Having missed that opportunity, however, I was able to include Miletus in a personal journey in 2014. That visit was by rental car from Bodrum, after arriving in Turkey from the Greek island of Cos. Miletus is about 110 km (1:45 hr), by road, north of Bodrum and I was able to make it a day trip, which included visits to Didyma and Priene.
Click here for a Google Earth view of Miletus
The entrance to the site is very close to the imposing theatre. The site ticket booth is at the end of the path seen over the middle of the remains of the 'stage building', below.
Take the time to search out the inscription in the cavea, indicating the seating reserved for Jews and God-fearers.
Photos: 19 Oct 2014
The theatre is large and the cavea is very well preserved, including the vomitoria giving access to, and egress from, the seating areas.
From the top of the cavea, there is a magnificent view over the plains , and the Lion Harbour to the north east.
One of three harbours serving ancient Miletus, its outline remains clearly visible from above. However, depending on the seasons, it may be either flooded or well overgrown with vegetation.
The entrance to the harbour is clearly visible as a wet area behind the theatre in the Google Earth view linked in the introduction, above.
The museum was only recently opened when I visited in 2014. It was relatively small but well worth what was then a very reasonable price of admission.
I was so keen to visit the site that I bypassed the museum on the way in. Perhaps a visit to the museum, first, would help orient a visit to the site.
Click here for a Google Maps Street View image of the entrance to the Museum
If you're planning to visit Miletus, and you have the time, it makes sense to include Didyma in your visit. This significant cultic site is closely associated with Miletus and the remains of the Temple of Apollo are impressive in themselves.
Click here for a Google Maps Street View of the entrance to the site.
Click here for a view of the site in Google Earth.
Below left: The impressive Medusa figure at Didyma Photo: 19 October 2014
If you're planning to visit Miletus, and you have the time, it makes sense to include Priene. It is very possible that the Ephesian elders passed through here on their way to meet Paul in Miletus. (Acts 19:)
The entrance to the Priene archaeological site is along the narrow path trailing off to the bottom left of the map at left.
Click here for a Google Earth view of the site.
Above right: The small theatre at Priene. Photo: 19 October 2014