May 1 - Goodbye Damascus

"Austin" and "Five Pair" headed out of Damascus carrying a full load of Miss Ginny's cooking with "Austin" asserting that a weighing immediately following the breakfast gluttony showed Miss Ginny responsible for 3 pounds of extra weight and "Five Pair" telephonically indicating that given the upcoming ascent, an involuntary purging might be in the future.

"Five Pair" bid Ground Control adieu and the two hikers began their day long ascent. The terrain today was essentially uphill the entire day with two gradual descents in the middle portion of the hike.

The hikers are not within Verizon service area so enter the Spot, which indicates that "Austin" and "Five Pair" called it a day on the southern slope of Whitetop Mountain at an elevation of 5100 feet.

Impressive mileage total of 21.4 miles and a new high mileage mark.

Tomorrow the hikers will enter the Grayson Highlands State Park, have a likely encounter with one of the unique sightings along the AT and surpass the 500 mile hiked mark.

Update: Verizon comes through and a call was had. "Bucket", "Kindle Ninja", "Parmesan", "Opie" and others are all camping at the Whitetop Mountain location. Two of the hikers camping nearby tonight are "Balls" and "Sunshine". "Sunshine" is a young lady of just 11 years who has already thru-hiked the 2,664 miles of Pacific Coast Trail, is doing her thru-hike of the AT this year and plans on the Continental Divide Trail (over 3,100 miles) next summer, those accomplishing that feat earning the title of "Triple Crown Hiker".

488.3 miles complete/1,696.1 miles to go

May 2 – Wild Horses of Virginia Highlands

In Damascus and after consultation with Ground Control, the plan was confirmed that "Five Pair" would be picked up in Atkins, Virginia, for transport to Gainesville, Florida, for a daughter’s graduation and that "Austin" would be joining in on this car based side journey. As such, the hikers would be putting in several 20 miles days in a row.

This morning the hikers crossed into Grayson Highlands State Park, the home of one of two herds of wild horses that roam the Virginia Highlands. The origin of these wild horses is unknown but they have occupied the highlands for quite some time. The horses are used to hikers as you will note from the pictures and apparently can be fond of human salt licks that occasionally happen by them.

Moving beyond the wild horses and after 17.6 miles, the hikers finished up their day and set up camp at Old Orchard Shelter.

505.9 miles complete/1,678.5 miles to go

May 3 – Pizza Party

A big day is planned by the hikers to position themselves for the scheduled pickup of "Five Pair" and "Austin" at Atkins tomorrow. The hikers set off with their goal being the Partnership Shelter. The Partnership Shelter is one of two shelters on the AT where hikers can order delivery pizza.

After 24.7 miles hiked (new high), "Five Pair" arrived at the Partnership Shelter just as the pizza arrived and the large number of hikers at the shelter took full advantage. After the hikers feasted on the pizza, two hikers produced musical instruments, guitar and fiddle, and the hikers enjoyed the impromptu concert around the campfire.

Tomorrow "Five Pair" and "Austin" will depart the hiking group they have enjoyed since their early days on the AT and travel to Gainesville, Florida, for the graduation of “Five Pair’s” younger daughter from the University of Florida.

530.6 miles complete/1,653.8 miles to go

May 4-5 – Gatorland

The meeting place for Ground Control to pickup "Five Pair" and "Austin" was established and Ground Control was at the appointed location well ahead of the estimated time of arrival and during the wait had the opportunity to meet and chat with "Bucket," "Kindle Ninja," "Beacon," "Gypsy Soul," "Haus" and Haus’s mother (trail name: "Cricket").

At around 1:45p, "Austin" and "Five Pair" hiked around a slight bend and up toward US Highway 11 at Atkins, Virginia, and Ground Control was there to welcome "Five Pair" and meet "Austin." After less than a few minutes, the hikers were in the car and requesting a food stop at a Sonic where a corn dog, chili cheese tater tots, and an ice cream sundae were featured items. After the annihilation of the food at the Sonic stop, the travel to Gainesville began in earnest.

On the way south, "Austin" was introduced to the traditional stop by "Five Pair" and her family any time traveling on I-95 in South Georgia, the "Six Pence Pub" in Savannah, Georgia. More eating occurred.

After a highway hotel respite and breakfast, the drive to Gainesville was completed and after a stop off at the soon to be Graduate’s place, introductions and raiding the Graduate's closet for some non-hiker apparel for "Austin", the hikers where off to, what else? Lunch, and a big lunch it was at a Mexican restaurant in Gainesville. After lunch, "Austin" found time to take a swim at "Five Pair's" older son's apartment complex and "Five Pair" undertook to get some wash done. Then everyone hurriedly get dressed for dinner. The day ended after dessert was consummed.

542.2 miles complete/1,642.2 miles to go

May 6 – Return to the Trail

An early morning rise, travel to the O’Connell Center and witness a graduation ceremony at the University of Florida with each speaker ending their speech with the same two words. . . "Go Gators!"

Celebratory lunch (a/k/a gorging) followed.

By 4:15pm and after two days of eating, thinking of eating and planning for eating, the hikers and their gear were loaded back into the car and left Gainesville, Florida, for the 600 miles journey back to the pickup point in Atkins, Virginia.

The hikers arrived at 1:30am on May 7 and quickly settled in for the night.

542.2 miles complete/1,642.2 miles to go

May 7 – Hello and Good-bye

In the morning, "Five Pair" met "Austin’s" mother as she would be joining "Austin" and "Five Pair" for a few days on the AT.

After a breakfast at the Red Barn, the three hikers loaded up with their gear returned to the pickup spot to restart their journey. At 10:15am, Ground Control bid farewell to "Five Pair" and watched as the three hiked away and began their day on the Appalachian Trail.

The hike today included some beautiful views and the hikers called it a day at the Knot Maul Branch Shelter after 13.9 miles, without seeing many hikers during the day and the hikers at the shelter did not include any of the hikers with which they had previously met or been hiking with since March.

The hikers passed the 25% completion mark today.

556.1 miles complete/1,628.3 miles to go

The hike today included some beautiful views and the hikers called it a day at the Knot Maul Branch Shelter after 13.9 miles, without seeing many hikers during the day and the hikers at the shelter did not include any of the hikers with which they had previously met or been hiking with since March.

The hikers passed the 25% completion mark today.

556.1 miles complete/1,628.3 miles to go

May 8 - Rain and a Ridgeline

The three hikers set off this morning amidst rain and rain was their companion for much of the day. With the wet companion came soft footing and slippery hard surfaces that provided "Five Pair" with two opportunities for her to become closer with the ground surface.

After a series of up and downs the hikers undertook a 2300 foot assent to Chestnut Knob at the 4400 foot elevation and began hiking northeast along a ridgeline. After 13.9 miles, the hikers determined to take advantage of a break in the precipitation and set up camp.

580.0 miles complete/1,604.4 miles to go

May 9 - Wet

"Wet" adj \ˈwet\ : consisting of, containing, covered with, or soaked with water

The hikers companion of yesterday rejoined them and was a constant presence making the day on the AT an exercise in slogging similar to the prior day with the added joy of cooler temperatures and wind accompanied by mud and slippery rock. The hikers bumped into "Gypsy Soul" today and they may meet up with her tomorrow and hike a bit together.

"Gypsy Soul" began her hike with "Barefoot" who unfortunately, struck her foot on a rock and had to leave the AT due to a broken bone. "Barefoot" is recovering at home and when healed, will rejoin "Gypsy Soul" through to Katahdin and then "Barefoot" and "Gypsy Soul" will return to the prior stopping point for "Barefoot" so that "Barefoot" can hike the approximately six weeks of the AT that she missed during her recuperation so that she can complete her thru-hike.

The destination today for the hikers was the AT’s intersection with US Highway 21 and 52 where "Austin’s" Mom had dropped her car prior to joining the hikers in Atkins. So after 17 miles on the day, the hikers loaded into "Austin’s" Mom’s car and made their way to dry, warm accommodations that Ground Control had arranged in Wytheville with the timing being fortuitous on account of the foul weather, the hikers have been wet for two days and they can dry out their gear, wash can be done and more importantly, "Austin" can rest as she was struck by illness during the hike today; the first illness for either "Austin" or "Five Pair" while on the AT.

The three hikers enjoyed their last dinner together as "Austin’s" Mom will depart tomorrow and the venue was a Cracker Barrel where "Five Pair" described gleefully the feast of chicken and dumplings followed by an apple praline dessert.

586.9 miles complete/1,597.5 miles to go

May 10 - Hiking Ridgelines

"Austin" and "Five Pair" were out early into the cloudy, cool, windy day with visions of getting on a 20 mile per day habit. After crossing US21 and 52 and hiking upward for about 2 miles, they continued their hike in the Jefferson National Forest on a ridgeline for approximately 10 miles hiked down and then up to another ridgeline and hiked along it for another 5 miles. Then the hikers worked their way down and through a gap ending their 20.4 mile day and camping near Dismal Falls.

Dismal Falls is a multi-ledged water fall which is around 50 feet wide and drops approximately 15 feet. "Austin" reports the falls are anything but dismal.

The hikers passed the 600 miles hiked mark today.

607.3 miles complete/1,577.1 miles to go

May 11 - Wood's Hole Hostel

The hikers set left their campsite at Dismal Falls and had a meandering hike along the valley floor for approximately six miles crisscrossing Dismal Creek. They then undertook a steep 1500 foot ascent over the next two miles with a couple ups and downs in between the 3500 and 4000 foot elevation capping out for the day at the 4100 foot mark near the summit of Sugar Run Mountain.

“Austin” and “Five Pair” have been hiking alone since getting back on the AT and have not come across any of the hikers with which they previously were hiking.

Around Sugar Run Mountain they hiked and then having completed 12.8 miles, the hikers traveled down to Sugar Run Road and ½ mile off the trail was the hikers’ destination, Wood’s Hole Hostel. A hiker hostel since 1986 housed in a remodeled cabin built in 1880 and run by the granddaughter of the original hostel operator who owned the site since 1939.

619.4 miles complete/1,563.6 miles to go

May 12 - Sunny and a Blizzard

"Austin" and "Five Pair" headed toward Pearisburg, Virginia, upon leaving the Wood’s Hole Hostel with the intent of restocking and eating and accomplished both when arriving in Pearisburg with a Dairy Queen being the food location and an Oreo Blizzard being on the must-do menu for "Five Pair".

After eating and restocking the hikers headed out of Pearisburg and hiked upward 1,800 feet in elevation over the next 2½ miles to a ridgeline and onward to the Rice Field Shelter on a bald along the Virginia and West Virginia border.

The hikers met "Acid Glasses" from Columbus, Ohio, along their hike today.

After 17.2 miles, the hikers found their way into the Rice Field Shelter rather than tenting it as the weather report shows the chance or rain increasing throughout the night with the chance of rain being 100% later tomorrow.

636.6 miles complete/1,564.3 miles to go

May 13 - Rain, Rain, Go Away...

"Austin", "Five Pair" and "Acid Glasses" left Rice Field Shelter and it turns out that that the oft mocked clairvoyance of weather predictors at least in this case is misplaced. The rain came and stayed.

Also encountered in this day’s hike was the certain lack of detail in the trail guide related to the nature of the trail in this area. While straight and encountering a minimum of elevation gains and losses, the AT here was very rocky and throw in a bit of precipitation and you have a combination that results in slower going than the hikers wanted.

As they approached Bailey Gap Shelter and with another storm cell approaching, the hikers called it a day after 16.4 miles settling into the shelter for the night and avoiding the coming weather.

653.0 miles complete/1,531.4 miles to go

May 14 - ... Come Again Another Day

And it did. Today.

"Austin", "Five Pair" and "Acid Glasses" left Bailey Gap Shelter and a very wet AT was on the agenda for the day as the rainy weather continued throughout the day.

Question #1 of the Day: What is worse than one pair of wet socks?

Answer: Two pair of wet socks.

For those following along, given the inventory carried by "Five Pair" and extrapolating out to her favorite number, many pair of wet socks geometrically increases angst.

The rain continuing, soaking wet, "Austin" hiking ahead and the next shelter looking distant, a quick call (actually "calls" as the weather created a number of dropped calls) to Ground Control results in arrangements for "Five Pair" for a nearby dry night.

Question #2 of the Day: What is the best prescription for five pair of wet socks at the 670 mile mark on the AT?

Answer: The Huffman House at Creekside Farm

"Five Pair" arrived at The Huffman House before nightfall and met up with "Bigfoot" and "Doc". "Doc" was there with his wife and recovering from a respiratory ailment. "Five Pair" had met "Bigfoot" earlier in the day.

"Doc" and his wife were kind enough to transport "Five Pair" and "Bigfoot" along with them to a restaurant recommended by Carol, owner of The Huffman House. Pear brie, strawberry gorgonzola salad, barbeque chicken pizza and apple crisp were all part of the meal.

In speaking with "Five Pair", dry accomodations coupled with a meal of "real" food has resulted in "Five Pair" achieving a renewed vigor to attack the AT tomorrow and rejoin "Austin". The brief conversation ended with a bit of hiker humor from "Five Pair":

Whats the difference between a hiker and a bum?

Answer: Gore-tex

670.0 miles complete/1,514.4 miles to go

May 15 – The Dragon’s Tooth

"Five Pair" having recharged at the Huffman House and once again hiking with the comfort of five pair of dry socks, left with visions of tackling bigger mileage and perhaps hunting down "Austin."

Picking up the AT at VA42, "Five Pair" immediately undertook a 1200 ft elevation increase in the first 1½ miles of trail. Thereafter, it was hiking a rocky ridge line for a couple miles then down into the valley and back up 1,200 ft for the next 1¼ miles to the Brush Mountain ridgeline, down again followed by an 800 foot steep switchback ascent followed by a steady rise along a narrow, rocking ridgeline followed by a boulder/cliff scramble to the Dragon’s Tooth at the 3000 foot elevation and spectacular views.

Thereafter and following a 1,000 foot descent, Five Pair called it a day after 20.1 miles and settled into the Pickle Branch Shelter having completed her 50^th day since the beginning of her thru-hike.

690.1 miles complete/1,494.3 miles to go

May 16 – McAfee Knob

With the weather report showing optimistic conditions, "Five Pair" headed out and reached one of the "Kodak Moments" on the AT, McAfee Knob. The Knob is a rocky ledge protrusion providing an almost 270 degree panorama from west to east of the Catawba Valley, North Mountain, Tinker Cliffs and Roanoke Valley.

As "Five Pair" approached the Knob and still having not caught up to "Austin", "Five Pair" introduced herself to four younger hikers enjoying the amber nectar while sitting on the Knob, advised that a picture of her on the Knob beckoned so their get together would be interrupted for a few moments and one of them would be lucky enough to be selected to take the photo of "Five Pair" on the Knob. After taking a photo, the volunteer photograph advised "Five Pair" that she would need to lose the backpack and take a couple other photos including the traditional sitting on the edge of the rock photo.

With the obligatory Knob photos in electronic hand, "Five Pair" thanked her volunteer photographer, took a photo of the four as they returned to their spot on McAfee Knob to finish their beverages and moved on down the trail and found "Tree" minding a camp fire along with "Cheez-It" (yes, trail name is due to his fondness for the snack cracker) at Campbell Shelter. 17 miles after her start of the day.

With 700 miles hiked, "Five Pair" will soon pass the 1/3 complete mark of her thru-hike.

707.1 miles complete\1,477.3 miles to go.

May 17 – Daleville Pickup

The day brought a series of up and down hikes as "Five Pair" worked her way towards Daleville, a town north of Roanoke, and during the hike her lunch spots and snack breaks were taken overlooking beautiful views of the valley below perched from rocky ledges.

In addition, this day saw "Five Pair" provided the opportunity to be serenaded by Brood 1 of 17 year cicadas that have recently emerged from in Virginia having awaited their entrance underground and the now extinct members of the Brood providing a crunchy carpet for "Five Pair" to hike on as the numbers are so great avoiding them is not possible.

As "Five Pair" descended from the ridges and approached the crossover of the AT and US220, her prearranged pickup awaited. "Five Pair" family members, Uncle George and Aunt Sue, were there for the pickup and to provide a home cooked meal and bed… a truly welcome combination.

722.5 miles complete/1,461.9 miles to go

May 18 and 19 – Roanoke Zeros

In the first thirty minutes of the new day, "Five Pair" was awaken by a call and was kind enough to open the front door so that Ground Control might pay his favorite hiker a visit.

"Five Pair’s" schedule for the day included breakfast on the porch with family and lunch with her family at a downtown Roanoke bakery café followed by a visit to a local outfitter to accommodate the larger foot size now being experienced by "Five Pair."

The experience of "Five Pair" with the hiking community continues to impress with the latest chapter being that of the Walkabout Outfitters of Roanoke. As "Five Pair" made her way to the lunch locale she walked by the Walkabout Outfitter location to which she would return after lunch where she was made aware of a welcome sign directed at her arrival compliments of a call by "Five Pair's" uncle to Walkabout.

After the outstanding lunchtime feast at On the Rise Bread Company, "Five Pair" was officially welcomed at Walkabout and with the attentive assistance of Jocelyn, "Five Pair" left with a new pair of Vasque Breeze boots, two shirts to be added to her hiking wardrobe, a new hydration bladder for "Triple T" (who will soon be rejoining "Five Pair" on the AT) and directions to another local outfitter that Jocelyn had telephoned to confirm that it possessed a backpack poncho in their stock as "Five Pair" believe it may just be what is needed.

After shopping, there was a quiet dinner shared by "Five Pair" and Ground Control followed by the next day which included a visit to the other outfitter, lunch and a movie.

Saturday night was all about organizing, resupplying and packing for the next day as "Five Pair" readied to return to the AT.

722.5 miles complete/1,461.9 miles to go

May 20 – Five Pair Return

After a quick breakfast and short drive to US220 in Daleville, Ground Control said his good-byes to "Five Pair," who 27 years and 2 days ago provided the best two word answer to a question that Ground Control to this day has heard, and watched her hike away.

Returning to the trail well fed and after two zero days, "Five Pair" was re-energized, wondering what hikers she had met previously might cross her path and expecting a lot of hikers to be finding their way back to the AT on Sunday and Monday as Trail Days, the annual celebration of the Appalachian Trail and reunion party for hikers had been over the weekend in Damascus. The first five miles was an uphill hike with the miles thereafter being up and downs.

To her surprise, the AT was almost void of hikers today with "Five Pair" only see a couple day hikers.

"Five Pair" met up with "Gypsy Soul" and "Muck" around 5pm and while very tempting to sit and enjoy their company as well as the roaring fire upon which "Muck" had been bringing to bear his considerable skills in fire-making, "Five Pair" determined to hike on. Her hike continued into the evening with "Five Pair" doing her first (and likely last if enjoyment is a consideration) evening hike. The inability to clearly see her footing was an additional unwelcomed stress during hiking. At around 9pm, "Five Pair" came upon Cove Mountain Shelter, and while many hikers were tenting around the shelter "Five Pair" opted for the shelter given the time and the darkness. A big hiking day for "Five Pair" establishing a new daily miles hiked high of 25.0 miles.

Tomorrow "Five Pair" will meander along the Blue Ridge Parkway and for the next 100+ miles and thereafter will enter Shenandoah National Park.

747.5 miles complete/1,438.9 miles to go

May 21 - Dodging Rain, an Oops and a Magical Ending

"Five Pair" got off to a decent start in the morning as the weather forecast showed a greater chance of rain as the day wore on so getting miles in early was optimal as the goal for today was Thunder Hill Shelter.

By 4:00p "Five Pair" had been successful in skirting the rain and was within 2½ miles of Thunder Hill Shelter. All that was left on her hike today was a 1000 foot ascent over the next 1½ miles then a short descent to the shelter. As she moved along the trail a hiker going the other way observing her looking a bit worn down by the day's journey asked if she needed some Trail Magic which on the AT is almost always rhetorical. After the affirmative response, the gentleman advised that he was on a bit of a hike but he would be at Thunder Hill Shelter to cook everyone there a pancake dinner.

While the prospect of such an event livened up "Five Pair's" ascent, another decision would cause a bit of delay. Namely, the dreaded unmarked fork. "Five Pair" went right and after a bit of a hike without seeing a blaze, "Five Pair" did the equally dreaded turnaround and worked her way back.

"Five Pair" speaks with great affection for the opportunity to undertake a large ascent at the end of each hike and such was the case today in her 17.2 miles but the drudgery of the task was lightened by the promise of Trail Magic.

Upon her arrival at Thunder Hill Shelter the Magic provider had already arrived and setup and after getting a response to his inquiry as to how he managed to get to the shelter before "Five Pair", this generous bestower of Magic cooked up eggs, pancakes, sausage, provided orange juice and graced the recipients with that utmost of rareties on the AT, ice. Three lady hikers were the thankful recipients of this generous act, "Soho", "Lady Forward" and "Five Pair", as they were served an outstanding version of Trail Magic. Shortly thereafter, husband and wife hikers, "Santa" and "Gnome" came along and enjoyed some as well. This provider of Magic undertakes his version based upon his son's thru-hike of five years ago and his stories and thankfulness of the Trail Magic he had received along the way so this father has since then undertaken to provide a similar courtesy each year.

Ground Control was most happy to hear of this meal as in his recent visit with "Five Pair" he had determined and shared with her that while her AT fitness regiment has resulted a a very fit "Five Pair" it also had achieved about as much leanness as a doctor would prescribe for her so caloric intake needed to increase.

764.7 miles complete/1,419.7 miles to go

May 22 – Over and Into the James River

The forecast for the day was rain and thunderstorms so "Five Pair" was up early and on the trail looking to race the rain to the target shelter, Johns Hollow Shelter, 16.3 miles away.

Having shared Trail Magic together yesterday, "Soho", "Lady Forward" and "Five Pair" hiked together today with one of the highlights of the day being the AT tradition of jumping off the footbridge into the James River. Well, okay, "Five Pair" and "Lady Forward" didn’t actually participate in the tradition but they did enjoy watching "Soho" take the plunge.

After "Soho" found herself out of the James River, the three hikers made their way to the end of their 16.3 mile hike to Johns Hollow Shelter where they met up with "Wall•E" and called it a day.

781.0 miles complete/1,403.4 miles to go

May 23 - Missed Magic

"Five Pair", "Soho" and "Lady Forward" headed off with rain in the forecast and 18 miles on the schedule.

Luckily, the hikers avoid rain for the most part but unfortunately for "Five Pair" she also missed Trail Magic by minutes as she went through the magic spot before the provider’s arrival. This version, painfully for "Five Pair", included Krispy Kreme donuts (a staple in "Five Pair's" ordinary diet) and soda.

While depressing to hear about, "Five Pair" pitched her tent as did a number of other hikers by the creek near the Brown Mountain Creek Shelter and enjoyed dinner by the campfire along with "Soho", "Lady Forward", "Peppa Boy", "FM", "Wall-E", "Pedestrian" and a couple other hikers.

Tomorrow "Five Pair" and the rest of the NOBO thru-hikers will pass the 800 mile mark.

799.3 miles complete/ 1,385.1 miles to go

May 24 – A Regal Visit

"Five Pair" was up and out of camp by 6:45a this morning as the hike was approximately 18 miles on the AT and then an off Trail hike of at least a mile as the end of the hike today would be the Dutch Haus.

"Five Pair" passed the 800 miles hiked mark and after passing the Seeley-Woodworth Shelter and arriving at the off trail at Spy Rock Road, a call was placed to the Dutch Haus to arrange a pickup. Unfortunately, due to the heavy hiker activity all of the cars were active so "Five Pair" moved on with her hike towards her destination with the Dutch Haus saying they would look for her when a car was available.

Down the mountain "Five Pair" traveled and onto the Montebello Campground store where she mysteriously found an ice cream and a cup of coffee had made its way into her hands. As she departed the store and began hiking toward her destination, an approaching car pulled over and asked "You wouldn’t happen to be Terri, would you?" An affirmative response was greeted with the welcomed invitation to "get in" and "Five Pair" was whisked off to the Dutch Haus.

Upon entry into her home for the night, the innkeepers welcomed "Five Pair" with an offer of Krispy Kreme donuts and coffee. "Five Pair", being a huge fan of this particular brand of sugary oval pastry, enthusiastically accepted.

Her room was lovely and after a hot shower, a delicious lasagna dinner was served topped off by brownie and ice cream... oh how "Five Pair" loves the brownie and ice cream combination!

Also at the inn were hikers "Pedestrian" and "Duke’s Keeper". "Duke’s Keeper" advised "Five Pair" that "Austin" was hiking with "Haus" and was three days ahead. Not sure whether "Duke" was around.

In describing her stay at the Dutch Haus, "Five Pair" stated that the innkeepers were fantastic and "treated me like a Queen."

817.4 miles complete/1,367.0 miles to go

May 25 - Three Ridges

"Five Pair" left the comfortable confines of the Dutch Haus and was immediately greeted with the steep gravel incline that she had descended the evening before and that pleasurable hiking, coming before her AT hike for the day officially began, foreshadowed the day to come.

"Five Pair" is traveling with the "AT Guide", the definitive guide for the Appalachian Trail (created and maintained yearly by "AWOL"… a hiker that calls Titusville, Florida, home) and as detailed and useful for the hiker in planning as it is, it does not present the ruggedness of the trail and terrain to be addressed.

Such was the case this day, as "Five Pair" began her AT hike with a 500 foot rocky ascent over the next half mile, followed by a couple undulations, then a 800 foot rocky ascent over the next mile. "Five Pair" then hiked down 3,000 feet in elevation over the next four miles.

As followers of this journal know, the terrain of the AT is the antithesis of the old saying beginning "What goes up". Having hiked down to 1,000 feet above sea level, it was time for her to turn her boots skyward and begin the over 3,000 foot ascent achieved in the next five miles. Reaching the summit after 5pm, "Five Pair" hiked the next two and half miles into Maupin Field Shelter arriving around 7p having completed the 18.1 miles for the day.

The holiday weekend was evident at the shelter as a group of girls scout leaders in training had set up their tents, a family had pitched hammocks nearby and two dads were attempting to manage a group of about 10 kids with one little girl then engaged in some serious crying. As "Five Pair" surveyed the crowded surroundings but no familiar hikers and as she observed the two dads working futilely to manage their charges, up strolled "Pedestrian", "Duke’s Keeper" and "Duke". NOTE TO FIG: I have confirmed that "Duke" was in fact present.

"Duke’s Keeper" being a resident of the surrounding area assured "Five Pair" the hiking in the upcoming Shenandoah does not pose the challenges of the ascents of the Three Ridges area which with its over 5,000 feet of elevation gain garners a 5 out of 5 on the hiking difficulty scale where hikers burn in excess of 5,000 calories during their hike. See below for graphic representation of the hike.

"Duke" facts: "Duke", a lab/shepherd, is just a puppy of approximately 9 months and was rescued around Thanksgiving by his keeper.

835.5 miles complete/1,348.9 miles to go

May 26 – Doorstep to the Shenandoah

"Five Pair" hiking with "Pedestrian", "Duke" and "Duke’s Keeper" started the day with a misstep following the directions of another and after not seeing a blaze for some time, pulled out a map and confirmed her fear… she wasn’t on the AT. As she worked her way up a very steep incline to get back to the actual AT, "Five Pair" was considering less than flattering names for Virginia but as she returned to the AT she was greeted by her hiking companions as they waited for her return.

Twenty miles later "Duke’s Keeper" called one of the posted Trail Angels (a list of people for hikers to call who have volunteered to drive hikers into town) and minutes later, an excited new Trail Angel arrived to whisk the hikers into Waynesboro. This Trail Angel was particularly excited to meet "Duke" and solicited her husband to also drive to the pick-up spot to take some hikers as well so she could assure herself of transporting "Duke". After a guided tour of Waynesboro courtesy of this very giving Trail Angel, the hikers readied themselves for dinner.

"Five Pair" ordered a cheeseburger for an appetizer and went on to enjoy a steak, crab cake, potatoes, salad and bread.

After dinner, the hikers were off to the laundry only to see the laundry lock up while the clothes were in the dryer so it will be an early morning to retrieve clothes before they set off into Shenandoah National Park.

856.3 miles complete/1,328.1 miles to go

May 27 – “If You Haven’t Seen One Yet, You Will”

"Five Pair" was up early and to the laundry to retrieve the clothes out of the dryer and with that all that was left was a quick trip by the hikers to the grocer and drug store for supplies and then the Trail Angel of the previous day had confirmed availability to take them back to the AT crossing where they were picked up. However, all the plans began running into roadblocks around 9am when the hikers began to realize that it was Sunday and store hours were going to be a problem.

The hikers found themselves in the Trail Angel’s vehicle and headed to the AT when the trip was interrupted by the realization by the Trail Angel that she had left a banana nut bread in her oven… so a quick trip to her home and then, back to the AT.

Around noon the hikers were back on the AT and heading into Shenandoah National Park. Original plan was for the three human hikers and one canine hiker to find a campsite between two "huts" (Shenandoah’s version of shelters). Around 4pm, "Five Pair" contacted Ground Control and advised that the morning after the night before had caught up with "Duke’s Keeper" so somewhere on the AT, "Duke" and his keeper had stopped off for a mid-afternoon siesta.

As "Five Pair" made her way up the AT and being advised that "Pedestrian" had gone on to the hut ahead, "Five Pair" looked for a suitable camping area and ran into "One Speed", a hiker from Apopka, Florida, Mike (trail name in flux) and John (… just John) and the four established camp.

Sixty-three days have passed since "Five Pair" started her journey and other than the first two nights where snorting was heard, no sighting had yet occurred but when a negative response was given to a passing hiking couple to their sighting inquiry to "Five Pair", assurance was given that such status would soon change.

After camp was set up, "Five Pair" saw a deer walk through their camp without a care. Shortly thereafter, the second animal appeared and casually strolled toward the camp. "Five Pair" could now officially check the bear box and after a couple photos, another of the campers scared the bear away with the sound of a shrill whistle.

869.6 miles complete/1,318.8 miles to go

May 28 – A 28 Spot

Not satisfied with the mileage of the previous day, "Five Pair" was out of camp by 7am.

By 9:30a, "Five Pair" was snacking at Blackrock and enjoying this view:

Thereafter, elevation profiles between the huts on the trail show a series of 8 up and downs with a final 900 foot elevation increase in the last 2½ miles. One of the niceties of the Shenandoah area is wayside restaurants as the AT skirts and intersects Skyline Drive, the main thoroughfare through the park. "Five Pair" took full advantage by stopping and having a cheeseburger and its accessories although ingestion of large quantities of food during a hike can slow a hiker down.

Just after 8pm "Five Pair" arrived at Hightop Hut and sent a SPOT message showing her 28.1 miles from her starting point and marking for "Five Pair" a new daily high for miles hiked.

897.7 miles complete/1,286.7 miles to go

May 29 - "Torrential"

"Five Pair" left Hightop Hut with visions of another 20 mile day as she attempts to position herself for arrival into Harper’s Ferry this weekend and reuniting with "Triple T" for a week+ of hiking.

The stories have been ample regarding wildlife in the Shenandoah but in particular, it appears the rattlesnakes are out in force. Hikers have been reporting them all over the trail, which actually is a good thing as they eat the mammal transports that serve as dining facilities for a less imposing but more sinister creature on the AT, ticks… and the potential of Lyme disease. "Five Pair" has run across a couple rattlers and on this day was able to snap a couple pictures of one that was nice enough to strike a pose.

As the day wore on, the rain began and as "Five Pair" traversed the ups and downs she passed a cemetery at Tanner Ridge Road. There are over 50 cemeteries in Shenandoah National Park, some active, some not, some large, some small. The actual number of cemeteries is still unknown as rangers continue to find locations.

"Five Pair" hiked up to the Big Meadows area and walked around and around and around looking for the Campground, a facility run by the National Park Service. At last she found the Campground, began the self-checking in process and just as she completed the form the dark clouds that had been omnipresent during the day opened up. This rain was well beyond the storms familiar to those in Florida during the summer, this was full on, hard to see past your extended hand rain. Torrential.

As the roof she was standing under began to leak onto her and her gear, the prospect of setting up camp began to reign down on "Five Pair". At that moment, a NPS ranger arrived and began taking down the U.S. flag a short walk away and "Five Pair" made a decision. Leaving her gear under the leaking pavilion, "Five Pair" sloshed her way out to the flagpole and hade her case for a ride to the Big Meadow Lodge, one of the hotel facilities run by the NPS in Shenandoah. His response was that he was not allowed to give anyone a ride in his government vehicle… the look on the face of "Five Pair" must have been one of utter disappointment. Faced with her expression ("I thought I was going to cry"), the ranger then amended his answer and advised that he would go get his vehicle and give her a ride. His position was apparently changed shortly thereafter, as he backed the NPS truck up to her as she stood under the sieve-like pavilion and told her to get in.

A short ride later during which the ranger advised her that the rain was suppose to last all night as two weather fronts had collided in the area, "Five Pair", having passed the 900 mile mark, ended the 20.8 AT miles hiked day by checking into the Big Meadows Lodge. Shortly after checking in, "Houdini" hiked in and found a room. "Five Pair" had passed "Pedestrian" during the day and wondered where he might be.

Dry and watching the rains continue, "Five Pair" and "Houdini" ate dinner in the Big Meadows tavern and listened to the live bluegrass music.

918.5 miles complete/1,265.9 miles to go

May 30 - The Mouse that Roared

As "Five Pair" headed out of the Big Meadows Lodge, "Pedestrian" hiked up and advised "Five Pair" that he got caught in the downpour and the trail was completely inundated with water with parts looking more like little rivers than a trail. He advised that he got soaked to the bone but very much enjoyed the opportunity to stomp his way through the very long puddle that was the AT late yesterday.

Counter to "Pedestrian’s" attitude, "Five Pair" was quite happy to have been dry last night was refreshed and ready for the hike. In looking at the shelters, huts and camping areas near the AT and without the need for extended off trail hiking; the Pass Mountain Hut being 18 miles away was the only option without hiking 30 miles or doing a greater than ½ hike off the trail to a campground. Item to note… camping is restricted in Shenandoah to specific areas or to locations outside of view of Skyline Drive. Also, given the prevalent bear activity setting up camp within proximity of others is the safer, better option. So down the trail she headed.

A quick stop at Byrd’s Nest #3 Hut revealed it to be a hut with its surrounding area that "Five Pair" found unsuitable even if she had planned to stop there. The hut was surrounded (read: overgrown) by high grass and given the number of snakes recently seen, it appeared likely to be a nice place for such inhabitants. In addition, present were numerous birds (apparently the name of this hut has a basis in fact) that were extremely loud and having dealt with squawking birds at prior shelters, "Five Pair" was happy to pass by this location.

"Five Pair" arrived at Pass Mountain Hut quite late after 18.4 miles and surprisingly only two other hikers were there, were not familiar to "Five Pair", and were both already set up in the hut. Given the bear activity, tenting without others in proximity wasn’t a comfortable thought so she begrudgingly moved toward setting up in the hut. As she began to set out her ground cover, a single mouse appeared and, according to "Five Pair", looked at her completely unfazed by the three hikers and seemed completely unconcerned about the human occupants. Such was the attitude of this little rodent that "Five Pair" had the time to get her camera and take a couple photos of this Braveheart version of mus musculus. While mice seem cute from a distance, these little varmints can wreak havoc on gear and clothing in their search for the smallest of food morsels. "Five Pair" considering the options related to this William Wallace of mice heard hikers coming up the trail and turned to see "Flash" and "Dirty Girl" appear followed shortly thereafter by "Pedestrian". After seeing "Five Pair’s" photo of the mouse, the hikers determined that tenting was the better option and "Five Pair" quickly agreed. Note: mice frequently are found more readily in shelters as the open areas where hikers camp do not provide the safety of cover.

As the day wound down, a nearby squeal was heard and a hiker at camp advised that a bear cub was signaling its mother. Almost immediately nearby brush came alive with movement as an animal of some size moved rapidly through and with that, the day came to an end.

936.9 miles complete/1,247.5 miles to go

May 31 – Five Clean Pair

As the hikers readied to start the day, "Flash" advised all that an absolutely huge bear paraded around the campsite for quite some time last night.

Another topic of discussion was the hikers’ planned destination for the day. All save "Five Pair" indicated they were headed to the campground at Tom Floyd Wayside which was greeted by "Five Pair" with an observed lack of enthusiasm. When questioned about her destination, she advised that the Front Royal Terrapin Station Hostel was her next stop about a mile before the campground. Questioning the need for a hostel, "Five Pair" informed the small, attentive group that clean clothes were running dangerously low and a laundry event was a necessity whereupon the joking retort was "That sounds like someone who has been on the trail for just a couple days!! Aren’t you over the clean clothes thing yet?"

As "Five Pair" moved up the trail, movement caught her eye as scurrying up a nearby tree was a bear cub. A grab for the camera resulted in a bit of a movie of the young bear attempting to hide but curiosity forces the young one to spy on "Five Pair" from above but soon the realization of the prior night caught up with "Five Pair" and that a squeal by this very cute ball of black fur would result in a not so cute, likely angry larger ball of black fur charging through the wood so "Five Pair" bid adieu to the cub and made her way further up the trail.

After a cappuccino and cheeseburger stop at the Elkwallow Wayside, a snack break overlooking another breathtaking vista and another day of up and downs, the end came to her 22.7 mile day. Off the trail for the .4 mile hike to the hostel where pizza and soda were awaiting her arrival and as important for "Five Pair", laundry facilities.

959.6 miles complete/1,224.8 miles to go

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