Embedded Files
August 1 – Zero in Gorham
With Dos’ arrival and a zero agreed, the ladies relaxed in the comfortable surroundings of the White Mountain Hostel and prepared their gear for entry into Maine and the legendary Mahoosuc Notch.
As the day wore on, hikers who "Five Pair" had not seen in weeks began arriving, including "Keeper" and "Duke", "Alpo" and others. The hikers assembled at a local pizza parlor and caught up with each other, exchanged stories of their experience in the Whites and discussions had regarding summiting Katahdin.
This restful day concluding with the hiker meal was the perfect entre for the last State of the trail.
1885.9 miles complete/298.5 miles to go
August 2 – Good-bye (Good Riddance) New Hampshire
The day began with an 1800 foot ascent over 4 miles to the summit of Mt. Hayes. The rocky trail continued undulating over ups and downs within a 500 foot elevation changes through to the Gentian Pond Shelter area. There "Five Pair" convinced "Dos" to continue and try to get to the next shelter five miles away.
The next 3 miles was a 1400 foot ascent to the summit of Mount Success during which the ladies passed the 1900 miles hiked mark. As they worked their way down the mountain, darkness fell and they found themselves working over two boulder scrambles including boulder squeezes requiring them to remove their packs. Fortunately, a group of teenage hikers assisted them by providing help on directions and managing the packs through the squeezes. As the hikers attacked the descent, they both absorbed punishment for the last time by the trail in New Hampshire.
At approximately 9:15p the hikers with headlamps blazing passed into Maine. Shortly thereafter, they found their way to the Carlo Col Shelter area at 9:30p. As "Dos" writes "I was all too happy to reach Maine via headlamp. I doubt I will ever take to the Whites again."
Tomorrow, the Mahoosuc Notch.
1902.9 miles complete/281.3 miles to go
August 3 - Mahoosuc Notch
The AT Guide describes it as the "most difficult or fun mile of the AT". The Mahoosuc Notch is a narrow ravine situated between the vertical cliffs of Fulling Mill Mountain and the Southern Peak of Mahoosuc Mountain formed by glacier activity. The Notch is a one mile long pit of large boulders which requires hikers to climb over, under, squeeze through and jump from boulder to boulder. The trail also weaves in and out of several caves. In the best conditions hikers can take two hours to traverse this one mile.
"Five Pair" and "Dos" were just six miles from the Notch and after the up and down hike of the three peaks of Goose Eye Mountain, the hikers arrived:
While the challenges were present and likely more difficult for a smaller height hiker, the hikers made their way carefully through the Notch until the skies opened and the rain began to pour down. The hikers found cover in the form of a cave and waited for the rain to pass knowing that the boulder surfaces made slippery by rain would be made more difficult.
The rain passed and the hikers set out again and carefully completed the Notch with a minimum of falls.
Given the rain and the forecast for the next day being sunny in the morning, the hikers called it a day at a campsite just north of the Notch and at the base of the challenge for tomorrow, the Mahoosuc Arm.
1910.1 miles complete/274.1 miles to go.
August 4 – Mahoosuc Arm
The first step out of camp this morning was up... up the 1600 foot steep rock face of the Mahoosuc Arm. The morning was quite warm but the good news was there was no rain which would have made the little over a mile climb on the uphill rock slab much more treacherous. As the climb continued, "Dos" began to fall behind and as "Five Pair" approached the summit "Dos" waived "Five Pair" forward and indicated that she would catch up.
After the rocky summit of the Arm, the hike took "Five Pair" to the 4000' Old Speck Mountain and then down a rocky 2500 foot descent to the Grafton Notch. As is the norm for the Appalachian Trail, as soon as the hike made it to the bottom of the notch, the trail had to turn up again and it did to the tune of 2150 feet to the summit of Baldpate west peak and then traveled further upward to the 3800 foot east peak of Baldpate. At the top of Baldpate, cell service was available and while readying to touch base with "Ground Control", "Five Pair" received a text message from "Dos" that her day ended four miles earlier. "Five Pair", hiking alone again, continued on to Frye Notch Lean-to and set up tent for the night with "Metric" and "Johnny Rocket" in the area.
1922.9 miles complete/261.3 miles to go
August 5 –Summit Adjustment
Up early and hopeful for more friendly terrain, "Five Pair" set off with a fuzzy plan for the day. While attempting to touch base with "Ground Control", "Five Pair" received a text message from "Keeper" that he and "Duke" where headed to The Cabin Hostel.
The weather was very good for hiking as the temperature was moderate with a bit of a breeze and the terrain while rocky was improving as the day continued. After a 1700 foot descent over 4 miles to Dunn Notch, "Five Pair" hiked a 1700 ascent over the next 5 miles. A rocky 1500 foot descent to Sawyer Notch was the precursor to the 1300 foot ascent to the top of Moody Mountain with the last mile being a 1000 foot descent to a crossover and pre-established location for pickup from the hostel.
After arrival at The Cabin, greetings to the hikers present including "Keeper" and "Five Pair" was convinced "Duke" was happy to see her.
The owners/operators of The Cabin were hosts extraordinaire and shuttled the hikers to the grocer for resupplying. Thereafter, dinner was provided by the owners and the hikers enjoyed a hearty meal including Shepherd’s Pie.
Stories exchanged, summiting plans for Five Pair", "Duke" and "Keeper" modified (August 20th appears to be slipping), dinner concluded with the plans for the next few days in place with less than 250 miles to Katahdin.
1937.4 miles/247.0 miles to go
August 6 – A Day With No Title
An 8am start for "Five Pair" and hiking alone, she was immediately greeted by an 800 foot ascent in the first ½ mile followed by another 1400 feet in elevation increase over the next 2 miles to the summit of Old Blue Mountain. The weather was nice and for "Five Pair" that means no rain. The remainder of the hike this day was a series of sharp ups and downs with varying terrain involving roots, rocks and dirt.
Lots of wildlife seen today by "Five Pair" highlighted by a friendly deer that followed her around for awhile and a not so friendly fox, at least unfriendly to the squirrel/chipmunk it had in its mouth as it crossed "Five Pair’s" path. Also, lots of ground based "evidence" of moose for "Five Pair" to avoid treading on but to date no live sighting.
Hiking into the campsite around 6:30p, "Five Pair" set up her tent and called an end to her day.
1948.7 miles complete/235.7 to g
August 7 - Necessity is the Mother of Bridge Making
The weather was again nice for hiking and the day began with a 650 foot elevation change over the first mile which would be the biggest ascent of the day. The hike would for the next 12 miles stay within stay within the elevation range of 2200 and 2800 feet and including some very pretty scenery including a picturesque pond.
During the hike, several of the anticipated stream crossings didn’t eventuate as it has been dry in Maine and flowing water more scarce than normal.
That said, one stream that did not suffer from a water flow deficiency posed a problem for "Five Pair" as there was no clear way to cross whether by rock hopping or fallen tree. Finding some good size rocks in the vicinity provided the materials necessary for "Five Pair’s" first engineering project and soon there was a rudimentary rock based crossing that "Five Pair" used successfully.
The last four miles were a gentle descent of 700 feet over the two miles followed by 600 feet of elevation increase over the last two miles. Upon completion, "Five Pair" hiked into the Piazza Rock Lean-to area and saw a familiar backpack. Shortly thereafter, a yell of her trail name by the familiar voice preceded the smiling face of "Alpo". Also at this campsite were "Bobcat" and "Joiner" and "Progress". "Five Pair" met "Joiner" and "Progress" at the White Mountain Hostel and again at The Cabin and in chatting with them, "Joiner" used the rock "bridge" that "Five Pair" had created at the previously referenced stream.
With the pride of her prior bridge work having helped another hiker and having eaten dinner and completed her tent setup, the day came to a close.
1965.6 miles complete/218.8 miles to go
August 8 - Quite the Workout
Another morning, another ascent. This episode of rocky stairway was 2000 feet in height and achieved over 3 miles ending at the 4120 foot summit of Saddleback Mountain. After passing over Saddleback came the descents and ascents of The Horn followed by Saddleback Junior. After summiting Saddleback Junior, the hike turned downward for 4 miles and 2100 feet and then, of course, back up again. Lone Mountain was next with its 1700 feet of elevation change over 3 miles to the summit. The trail then leveled out for the final two miles of the day into Spalding Mountain Lean-to. A wee bit of rain was experience during this day and an abundance of moose scat encountered… but still no sighting of a producer.
In camp tonight "Alpo", "Metric" and "Talks ALot" and arriving quite late "Keeper" and "Duke".
In the southern section of the AT, "Five Pair" commented on (read: complained about) the extra hiking distance imposed by trail maintainers as they employed switchback after switchback on ascents and she wondered aloud over the logic on such versus simply walking a more direct line up the mountain. Having now experienced the direct line theory in the Whites and now in Maine, "Five Pair" recognizes the wisdom of those switchbacks as the stress on knees experienced through the direct line theory and particularly on descents, is significant and likely contributes to the lower success rate of thru hiking southbounders.
With 16.9 miles achieved on the rocky up and down trail, dinner consumed, tent setup complete and an eye towards resupply and laundry tomorrow in the town of Stratton, "Five Pair" called an end to the day she called "quite the workout".
1982.5 miles complete/201.9 miles to go
August 9 – 200
The morning arrives and an early exit for the last one into camp the night before, "Keeper" and "Duke". "Five Pair" being surprised that the last one into camp would be on the way so early the next morning inquired into the motivation for such the early start to which the human hiker responded "I want to go into town… I am sick of these woods." However, before the two moved on, "Keeper" described the meeting between "Duke" and a porcupine where the porcupine, apparently unimpressed with meeting the canine trail legend, hissed at Duke. The hissing is produced by the porcupine by vibrating the hollow quills on their tail when frightened. "Duke" being the smart hiker he is, moved on rather than test further what irritated porcupines do beyond hissing. So off the two went.
At camp, "Progress" and "Joiner", husband and wife hikers from West Virginia, discussed with "Five Pair" their summiting plans and agreed to summit Katahdin with her along with "Keeper". Update: our favorite canine hiker "Duke" will sit out Katahdin as like the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and Bear Mountain State Park, dogs are not allowed in Baxter State Park.
The first segment today was a 700 foot ascent in less than one mile to the crest of the northwest shoulder of Spaulding Mountain at 3900 feet in elevation. As the trail turned slightly downward, the first of two items of note occurred when "Five Pair" came to a bronze plaque identifying and commemorating the location where the Appalachian Trail was completed in 1937. After the obvious photo opportunity, the hike continued. A quarter of a mile later, "Five Pair" took a step and walked inside the 200 miles to go mark.
Continuing on, the trail led to Sugarloaf Mountain which hosts a ski resort in the winter. Down the slopes of Sugarloaf the hike continued and as all who have followed along know, upon completing the 1500 descent to the valley floor, the trail turned steeply upward. However, before the 2 mile 1900 foot ascent would occur, "Five Pair" had the pleasure of fording the South Branch Carrabassett River. Once over the river, the trail went straight up to the top of South Crocker Mountain and after a quick descent of 300 feet and then back up to the 4228 foot summit of North Crocker Mountain. The lack of switchbacks took a toll on the legs and knees so a quick break at the summit and a call to "Ground Control".
After a quick break and a bit of food, "Five Pair" made her way down the slope of North Crocker Mountain over the next 5.2 miles to Maine 27 highway. Onto the town of Stratton, Maine, she traveled where clean laundry and food waited. The northbound hikers in town assembled at a local pizza place and finished the day with a big meal.
1996.0 miles complete/188.4 miles to go
August 10 – 2000 and The Zero that Wasn’t
The morning arrived and the zero anticipated by "Five Pair" due to the rain falling and predicted to continue all day faded away as schedule pressures were considered. Calls to "Ground Control" provided weather reports and "Five Pair", "Duke" and "Keeper" enjoyed breakfast as they awaited the current rain to pass.
The starting time of the hike was to be 11:00am as the rain had passed but getting back to the trail five miles to the east became a bit more of a challenge than anticipated. The occupants of towns along the Appalachian Trail are quite used to providing hikers transport to trail heads on their local highway but the rain and time conspired against the hikers and they were not able to find their way to the trail until noon.
At the start was a gentle two miles soon interrupted by the upward hike to the Horns. The trail turned decidedly difficult here with a 4 mile hike up the mountain with 2600 feet in elevation change on wet, slick rocks. After the summit of the South Horn, a short descent followed by a 800 foot upward hike over the next mile to the summit of Bigelow Mountain’s west peak. The next mile was a sharp 300 foot descent followed by ascent to the top of 4090 foot Avery Mountain. After Avery, the race was on down the rocky descent of 1850 feet over two miles into the Safford Notch campsite as a rain storm seen from the peak approached.
"Five Pair" quickly set up her tent although the area was not ideal as the better tenting spots had been taken. Shortly after completing her setup, the skies opened and a struggle to keep dry ensued as the tenting spot was creating problems. The rain intensified as the evening wore on.
While "Five Pair" despises the rain and all the wet, cold discomfort it brings, on this evening as she fell asleep she did so with the warmth provided by the pride of having passed the 2000 miles hiked mark.
2006.5 miles complete/177.9 miles to go
August 11 - Trail Makeup
The hike today was all about the plan for the next day as hikers must time their arrival at the Kennebec River as the river is too dangerous to ford so the official trail is via ferry service that operates four hours a day and shuts down at 4pm. So the plan was to get close enough to the Kennebec to guarantee the ability to get to the ferry timely.
Rain fell overnight and through the early morning which resulted in wet conditions the entire day. The hike started with a wet rocky ascent to the top of Little Bigelow Mountain and then down 1800 feet over the next 3½ miles. The trail then leveled off and "Five Pair" found herself trudging along the trail in the mud. "Five Pair" had some company today on the trail as "Duke" busied himself running the trail back and forth between "Five Pair" and "Keeper".
The wet, muddy conditions were a burden to "Five Pair" not only by slowing progress and providing the bonus of applying a mud coating to boots and clothing but also contributed to a physical toll. "Five Pair" slipped and fell with a stump breaking her fall… unfortunately via her face. While serious injury was luckily avoided, if "Five Pair" was a fan of black and blue rouge then she would be in luck as the left side of her face is all set for the next week.
The day ended after 15.9 miles with the hikers tenting at East Carry Pond.
2022.4 miles complete/162.0 miles to go
August 12 - Warnings
While there was little rain today during the hike, the rain of the past few days was evident with its moist fingerprint present on the rocks requiring climbing as well as the rocks to be hiked on. "Five Pair" met several SOBOs and after initial greetings their conversation began with “Let us warn you” regarding an upcoming issue.
The deviant nature of the trail designers was also on display today as the trail took a path away from the woods and had the hikers cross over major root covered trail and algae encrusted, wet rocks. As a bonus and consistent with the previous warnings, "Five Pair" then encountered slimy wooden planks with similarly covered hand rails constructed over streams and wet terrain below. The hiking was as slow on these planks as anywhere on the trail due to the extremely slippery nature of the walkway and the prospect of falling into the water below should you take a spill.
On a positive note, "Five Pair" had the constant companionship of "Duke” today as he hiked with her for most of the day. "Five Pair" was amazed at "Duke’s” innate sense of trail direction. In one instance, "Five Pair" hiked into an area where the trail crossed a road and became worried that "Duke” may have taken a wrong turn but as she approached the trail head, there was "Duke" sitting waiting for her arrival and with a wag of the tail and jump, welcomed her happily.
This day also included a somber visit to Pierce Pond where tragically in June, hiker Paul Bernhardt… trail name "Parkside", drowned when he was overcome by severe cramping during his swim in the cold pond after his 20 mile hike. After attending services in New York, "Parkside’s" hiking companions returned to AT and on June 29 they reached the summit of Katahdin with some of Parkside's ashes. Parkside Blog His parents have erected at the site warnings regarding swimming after hiking and how swimmers should manage such cramping events in the hope of preventing a reoccurance of "Parkside's" tragedy.
"Five Pair" made it to the ferry at Kennebec River, over to the northern bank and on to Northern Outdoors where she met up with "Keeper" and "Alpo". Also there was "Frenchie" and later arrived "Metric". A big dinner was had and the day ended in a dry cabin.
August 14 – Monson, Maine
The only ascent of the day was the morning greeting. Over the first two miles "Five Pair" hiked up 1300 feet of elevation to the top of Moxie Bald Mountain. After that it was a similar descent down to Moxie Bald Pond and thereafter the terrain leveled out but the trail was covered with roots. One root managed to trip up "Five Pair" and her previously colorfully and painfully bruised cheekbone now had her forehead as company with this particular event resulting in some nice abrasions as well.
Hiking to a road crossover point, a call was made and the pickup arrived from Shaw’s Lodging in Monson. Monson, this year becoming the first Maine town designated as an Appalachian Trail Community (recognition of the services it provides to hikers), is the last town on the northbound journey so "Five Pair" and the hikers will take a zero day here and supply for the upcoming 100 Mile Wilderness.
The hikers in town converge on a local eatery and pub and discuss plans for the next week of hiking.
2066.6 miles complete/117.6 miles to g
August 15 – The Last Zero
The day is spent acquiring supplies for the next week, doing a bit of equipment maintenance and eating. "Alpo", "Keeper" and "Duke" arrive into Monson as does rain.
2066.6 miles complete/117.6 miles to go
August 16 – The Real Last Zero
Overnight the rain that arrived yesterday developed into a large storm rotating over central Maine resulting in a torrential downpour.
"Five Pair" consulting the map and getting weather reports was all too happy to agree with the other hikers to defer hiking this day and wait out the storm. She moved from Shaws to Lakeshore House Lodging & Pub to enjoy the food and pub at this location as most of the hikers had now convened here including hikers that "Five Pair" had not seen for some time. At Lakeshore were "Wall-E", "Lady Forward", "Metric", "Bad Dinner", "Knees", "Willy", "Blues Clues", "Indiana", "Keeper" and "Duke".
2066.6 miles complete/117.6 miles to g
August 17 - Into the Wilderness
The hike today began with this warning:
Another attribute of the 100 Mile Wilderness is very poor cell phone coverage (read: none).
The hike today was very show going due to the prior two days rain. Muddy, slippery conditions existed the entire day. While the terrain was generally flat, there were small ascents and descents with the descents generally resulting in a stream to cross. Due to the rain, the numerous streams and brooks encountered this day were quite deep and moving with speed so careful crossing took time.
The day ended at Wilson Valley Lean-to.
2080.1 miles complete/104.1 miles to go
August 18 - 2100 Miles Hiked
The lack of cell phone service was in full play today. Just a brief static ridden call was received around 11:30a as "Five Pair" made her way to the Barren Ledges and the top of the Barren Mountain. The view "Five Pair" experienced would have been something like this:
he AT guide shows the terrain to be varied with a number of streams to cross, ledges to hike and a bog thrown in for good measure. The hike was generally up and down all day as the trail traveled over numerous small mountains (Side Note: not sure what constitutes a small mountain for someone from Florida but the term seems to work).
No service being available after the 11:30a call, landing spot for the day was a campsite just after passing the 2100 miles hiked mark with "Five Pair's" location being received via the Spot.
2101.1 miles complete/83.1 miles to go
August 19 - 21
More details to follow but… due to the rain it was muddy, slow going with many opportunities to ford streams and brooks. Will shortly post video of "Five Pair" and "Duke" each fording a stream.
August 22 - Duke's Last Day
Setting off from the Rainbow Stream Lean-to the four hikers, "Keeper", "Duke", "Blue’s Clues" and "Five Pair" set off on trail for a 15 mile hike relatively flat hike with just one ascent at the Rainbow Ledges which provided a nice photo opportunity for "Keeper", "Blue’s Clues" and "Five Pair" with Katahdin as the backdrop.
The hikers found their way to the Abol Bridge which spans the west branch of the Penobscot River and into the close by campsite where they met up with hikers, "P Squared", "Indiana", and "Dos".
Shortly after a "Duke" cleanup made necessary by his falling into a bog along the way, transportation arrived in the form of "Keeper’s" father, Brian, and made their way to Millinocket, Maine, a small town on the edge of Baxter State Park. The four hikers exited their transportation with a certain sadness knowing just three would return to the trail the next day as dogs are not permitted in Baxter State Park, so "Duke’s" journey came to an end two days before the rest.
2154.1 miles complete/30.1 miles to go
The plan for the day was a 10 mile hike where "Keeper", "Blue’s Clues" and "Five Pair" hiked in close proximity to each other such that "Keeper" was provided the opportunity to provide the three a good laugh as he made fun of "Five Pair’s" prowess with stream crossings as "Blue’s Clues" helped the stride challenged hiker from rock to rock.
Flat with several stream crossings, the hiking day ended around 2:30p with a pickup by "Ground Control" arrived with "Triple T" at the Katahdin Streams Campground for transport into Millinocket.
A lobster dinner was held at Scootic Inn where a large contingent of thru hikers who had completed their hike were present including, "Wall-e", "Indiana", "Lady Forward", "Willy", and "Dos". Congratulations were exchanged and some discussions ensued regarding the hike the three faced the next day. The day ended with toasts of beverages amongst the hikers at the Blue Ox Saloon across the street and good-byes exchanged.
2179.0 miles complete/5.2 miles to go
August 24 - 264
The alarm signaled the start of the day at 4:30a and "Five Pair", "Triple T" and "Ground Control" beat the sun out onto the road leading the Katahdin Stream Campground at the base of Mount Katahdin. The early start was to give them a head start on "Keeper", "Blue’s Clues" and "Keeper’s" father, Brian as "Five Pair" was confident that a head start was needed to summit at approximately the same time. A quick check-in at the gatehouse at Baxter State Park and just before 6:00a "Five Pair" signed in at the trail, left "packages" for Keeper" and "Blue’s Clues" and the three began the 5.2 mile trek and "Five Pair’s" last day on the AT.
The trail began nicely enough with some roots and small rocks providing minor obstacles but a pleasant enough first half mile but thereafter with each step the number of rocks and their size began to increase. As the trail began to ascend the rocks were fashioned into steps in places and continued to increase in number where soon the trail was completely covered in rock and was for the most part ascending.
At the two and half mile mark the trail turned decided upward, trekking poles were put away and the climbing began. Hand over hand rock climbing, looking for hand holds and foot supports and with that a better understanding as why some hikers of this area wear gloves. From white blaze to white blaze the hikers climbed and crawled their way up the 1700 foot 1 mile long boulder climb with stunning views coupled with acrophobia anxiousness. Some of the “sketchy” climbs (the term used by hiker “Indiana” in describing the boulder ascent of Katahdin) were accented by rebar sunk into the boulders to aid hikers in the essentially vertical climbs or particularly challenging angles across boulders.
The upward hike included teases where the climb would stop for a brief period as the trail wrapped a rock outcrop only to turn upward yet again. At one such location above the tree line and approaching the end of the ascent, "Keeper", "Blue’s Clues" and Brian were spotted coming up. The ascent soon ended at the Tableland, a relatively flat mile towards the summit. During this portion of the hike, "Keeper" and "Blue’s Clues" caught up to "Five Pair". With "Duke" there in spirit as the shirt "Keeper" was hiking in included a previously provided fist sized hole compliments of the canine hiker barred from Baxter State Park, the three thru hikers accompanied by "Triple T" hiked the last half mile 500 foot ascent together and at approximately 10:30a stepped onto Baxter Peak on Katahdin the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail.
The "packages" the hikers carried were retrieved and corks popped. Various poses and combinations were photographed. At the summit, thru hiker "Bison" was met. Lunch was then had and shortly thereafter, the three thru hikers accompanied by "Triple T", Brian and "Ground Control" began the downward trip. The hike down took a bit longer and the thru hikers met up with the parents of "Blue’s Clues" and more champagne was had at the campground.
At the campground, a Park Service ranger approached the three thru hikers with a form documenting each successful thru hike with each receiving their completion number: "Keeper" 262, "Blue’s Clues" 263 and "Five Pair" 264.
2184.2 miles complete/0 miles to go
Prologue: A celebratory dinner at Scootic Inn was enjoyed with other hikers also being present being "Bison" and "Knief", email and contact information exchanged, and then the hikers who had spent the last five months of their lives on the Appalachian Trail said good-bye to each other and their journey.
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