July 1 - Zero in Farmington

"Five Pair" takes a zero day in Farmington, Connecticut, and the day is spent eating, resupplying and doing some gear maintenance.

1472.3 miles complete/712.1 miles to go

July 2 - Racing to <700

"Five Pair" returned to Cornwall Bridge and with a step down off Connecticut Route 4 and a wave good-bye to Ground Control, her journey continued.

The hike today was quite warm but for the most part was shaded by the trees surrounding the trail. This portion of the trail featured a series of small up and downs and was quite pretty but the normal serenity of nature was replaced by what "Five Pair" thought to be cars racing. Although not within sight, the trail passes within earshot of Lime Rock Park, the home of a 1.5 mile Le Mans style track and home of Skip Barber Racing School, and the sound of Lime Rock Park supplemented that of the birds and brooks during a portion of the hike.

The landing for the day was Salisbury, Connecticut, and the home of Maria McCabe, an 83 year old Trail Angel originally from Italy, that opens her home to thru-hikers. "Five Pair" very much enjoyed her interaction with Maria. Upon realizing that the room she had intended for "Five Pair" had not been prepared, Maria quickly advised that "Five Pair" was to receive $5 discount off her room but she would have to make up her own bed. After giving "Five Pair" access to the kitchen and what food was available to her via self-service, Maria advised that she was tired and was going to bed after "The Bachelorette".

A hot shower and clean bed was the end of the day for "Five Pair" after having hiked 22 miles and hiking to within less than 700 miles to Katahdin.

1494.6 miles complete/689.8 miles to go

July 3 – 1500 Μάιλς Πεζοπορία και Kουνούπια

The day started with eggs, orange juice, English muffin and according to Maria "good coffee" from California in her do-it-yourself kitchen and with bidding farewell to Maria, "Five Pair" was back on the trail.

The hike during the early part of the day included MUDs and rocks and an ascent up Bear Mountain in the Taconic Mountains, the highest mountain summit in Connecticut (2,379 feet). Just prior to "Five Pair" making the summit of Bear Mountain, she crossed the 1,500 miles hiked mark. As enjoyable as up and downs over rocks was for "Five Pair", what lied in wait as she crossed into Massachusetts would surpass the irritation factor of the rocks.

Upon entering Massachusetts, the rocks continued as "Five Pair" hiked a ridge line and up to the summit Mount Everett at 2,602 feet which provided very nice views of the well-known Berkshires area. "Five Pair" communicated with "T" and the two would meet up in the town of Great Barrington. On her descent of Mount Everett, "Five Pair" visited the highland lake of Guilder Pond and after hiking another ridgeline, she began an eastern descent into the valley. Along the way, "Five Pair" also bumped into "Spider" and "Conan".

Her hike in the valley gave "Five Pair" the opportunity to become familiar with a resident of Massachusetts to which "Five Pair" is quite familiar with its Florida cousin but until this point in her hike, such familiarity had for the most part been infrequent while on the AT, mosquitoes. Walking through swampy area, the feeding opportunity provided by "Five Pair" was an invitation that vast numbers of the local community could not pass up so "swarming" was the descriptive word. "Five Pair" quickened her pace and in fact, began running at points to hasten her exit from the very persistent, bloodthirsty clouds.

With 21.4 miles complete at Highway US7 and darkness upon her, transportation arrived and "Five Pair" was taken up the road to Great Barrington, Massachusetts, and awaited "T’s" arrival. Upon "T’s" arrival, the two hikers found their way to the only restaurant still open and the very accommodating staff and chef of the Aegean Breeze Greek Restaurant bestowed upon the two seated at the counter various Greek specialties for which the hikers were as grateful as they were incapable of pronouncing the food they ingested.

1516.0 miles complete/668.4 miles to go

Title translation: 1500 Miles Hiked and Mosquitoes

July 4 - Weather Zero

The weather forecast was everything that "Five Pair" the hiker despises. Rain, rain and rain.

"T" was in need of a zero to resupply and get some needed rest given the temperatures encountered of late so with the combination of weather forecast, "T" taking a zero and many familiar hikers still at least a day behind "Five Pair", it was decided to weather the storm in Great Barrington, rest and do some gear maintenance.

Resupply occurred, gear maintenance occurred, rest occurred but no rain arrived.

While rain stayed away, another much more welcome arrival did occur. Genealogical Trail Magic in the form of "Five Pair’s" 8th cousin once removed and his 6 year old daughter. "Five Pair" very much enjoyed meeting her distant relative and his daughter over dinner as they discussed the trail as well as her cousin’s restoration work on his family’s 1760s farmhouse.

Happy Independence Day.

1516.0 miles complete/668.4 miles to go

July 5 - Stroll in the Berkshires

The day began early and "Five Pair" and "T" continued her hike in the Berkshires. Eastward they hiked up into the East Mountain State Forest and then down into a valley, across the valley and into Beartown State Forest. The day was quite hot but a very pleasant hike with ups and downs across a variety of terrain.

As the day ended, the now familiar flying teeth arrived and the hikers picked up the pace away from the watery areas.

The hikers found their landing spot, a campsite off Jerusalem Road, and set up camp. Several other hikers were at the campsite including "Flint" and a then unnamed hiker. After observing this unnamed hiker working over a piece of wood with his knife, "Five Pair" presented a second hiker with a trail name… "Whittler".

1533.5 miles complete/650.9 miles to go

July 6 - "Logistics"

\lō-ˈjis-tiks\ noun the management of resources in order to meet requirements.

For ten miles out of camp "Five Pair" and "T" hiked ups and downs as the trail provided witness to creation’s splendor via very pretty views, scenery and creeks. While the views were lovely and the serenity of nature calming, the rising temperature remained an element to be endured and by afternoon it had taken its toll on hikers.

Having glistened out several pounds and reviewed the AT Guide, "Five Pair" had identified a source within a short walk from a crossover point with the trail that "Five Pair" had surmised might provide access to Trail Magic ala "vending machine." A few minutes later, joyful smiles from the heat relief provided after the noisy appearance of cold aluminums.

After the success of locating the hydration source, another careful study of the AT guide revealed the landing for the day, a site hosted by an Appalachian Trail legend. Approximately eight miles later, "Five Pair" and "T" found themselves to the home and hiker campground of Roy and Marilyn Wiley, with the later more well known as the "Cookie Lady".

For over twenty years their home has been the host of hikers’ tents and the daily delivery of freshly baked cookies to the hikers. Estimates of the cookies baked and delivered by the Cookie Lady on an annual basis exceed 1,500. In addition to the baked good delivery, hikers have available to them from Roy and Marilyn assortment of hiking food gems not the least of which includes cold sodas and Klondike bars. Those two offerings provided "Five Pair" with the opportunity to create a trailside coke float and after some short work with her knife separating the chocolate coating from the ice cream, the opportunity was reality. While enjoying her dairy infused soft drink "Badger" admitted that he wished he had thought of her concocted drink prior to his inhaling his ice cream treat. As Hiker Midnight approached, "Five Pair" provided a trail name for the third time to an unnamed hiker now known as "Shortstop" and the day drew to a refreshing close after 19 miles hiked.

1554.5 miles complete/629.9 miles to go

July 7 - Hiker Rate

After the graciousness of the "Cookie Lady", a restful night sleep and a good breakfast, "Five Pair" and "T" headed out for the day. The day was warm and featured rocky trail and swampy surroundings.

As the day wore on, the trail turned upward with a 1,000 foot elevation change over approximately four miles and then downward toward The Cobbles, a small mountain with granite outcroppings which provides picturesque views of Mt. Greylock, the highest mountain in Massachusetts.

During the downward hike from The Cobbles towards the destination of the day, the town of Cheshire, the hikers met up with "Alpa", "Bobcat" and "Skunk Ape" who were heading towards the hiker hostel in town. While hiker hostels provide accoutrements beyond that of shelter areas, they are very basic accommodation.

Having researched the Cheshire area, "Five Pair" had located an Inn that provided a hiker rate and requested "Ground Control" to make inquiry into availability. Hiker rates at nicer establishments are typically hugely discounted accommodations based upon room availability late in the day and this was the case on this inquiry. The innkeeper indicated that it appeared that a room might be available at a hiker rate but a call back after 5pm would be necessary to confirm availability. The 5pm call was made, hiker rate acquired and soon "Five Pair" and "T" entered the historic 18th century Georgian colonial of the Harbour House Inn. Upon entry into the Inn, the hikers met Eva, the extremely accommodating innkeeper and reveled in the opportunities presented by this lovely bed and breakfast 19.1 miles after the day had started.

1573.6 miles complete/610.8 miles to go

July 8 - On Top of Old Greylock

The direction for "Five Pair" and "T” for the first half of the day? Up.

At The Cobbles yesterday they saw their quest for this day, Mt. Greylock, the highest peak in Massachusetts with its 3,491 foot summit. As the hikers worked their way upward, Trail Magic appeared consisting of a Coke and a Snicker bar. While "Five Pair" spent little time beginning her attack on the Snickers, the increased elevations also meant lower temperatures and windier conditions and the combination left "Five Pair" to carry the ice cold Coke. At the summit of Greylock, a cup of hot chocolate was the drink of choice and the Coke continued to be luggage.

Much like other high points within a State, Mt. Greylock is accessible via car and visitors are plentiful motivated by the view encompassing five states. Mt. Greylock is also noted for the uniqueness of its boreal forest, one of the southernmost occurrences of this forest type in North America and typically found on the southern edge of tundra areas. These visitors also find the thru-hiker to be a bit of a curiosity and questions are abundant. "Five Pair" and "T” are held up somewhat by friendly questioning visitors and the delay results in "Five Pair" describing their progress atop of Greylock as "moving like snails."

Leaving the summit of Greylock the hikers traveled over downward trending rocky ups and downs and into the valley floor where they traversed the Hoosic River via footbridge. Their day ended with a 1,000 foot elevation climb over the next 1½ miles to end the day tenting at the Sherman Brook campsite.

Another number mark achieved today as "Five Pair" passed the less than 600 miles to hike mark. Tomorrow: Vermont and the 1,600 miles hiked mark.

1589.5 miles complete/594.9 miles to go

July 9 - Vermont

The morning began with "Five Pair" coming face to face with a member of nature on the Trail that up to this point had not been seen. The standoff, witnessed by "Alpo”, lasted but a brief time before the animal moved directly at "Five Pair" eliciting a reaction that not even the prior bears achieved. Fortunately, the animal after charging "Five Pair" veered quickly away and was not seen again.

The hiking began shortly thereafter and within the first ninety minutes, "Five Pair" and "T" crossed into Vermont and spent some time hiking along a creek.

Thereafter, another frightening event occurred but this event had been experienced by "Five Pair" before but nonetheless was frightening. As she moved along the Trail focused on the hike and the quiet of nature that surrounded her, out of nowhere a shrieking mass came suddenly charging from behind a tree. These frightening occurrences have a secure place in the legacy of the hike of "Five Pair" as do their purveyor, the prankster known as "Alpo".

Upon the waning of the adrenaline rush brought on by "Alpo’s" scare, "Five Pair" and "Alpo" had lunch at the only spot that would offer a view during this day and may be the only view that escaped the lens of the camera of "Five Pair".

After lunch, the hikers continued on and along the way, "Five Pair" met her first SOBO hiker, "JR”, who took his first south bound step on May 15 (but it was not on Katahdin as Baxter State Park had yet to open). They spoke awhile with each giving the other information as to what lie ahead, the rocks of Pennsylvania for "JR" and the famed "Whites" and the "100 Mile Wilderness" for "Five Pair". After the exchange of information and thanks, the hikers continued on their respective paths and "Five Pair" surpassed the 1,600 miles hiked mark.

Having surveyed the upcoming areas and the lure of food and clean clothes beckoning, "Five Pair" traveled into Bennington and undertook the laundering chore and then across the way to local restaurant, Peppermills, for dinner. After dinner and pickup of the full stock of clean clothing "Five Pair" returned to the trail and was greeted by a 1,000 foot climb over the next 1½ miles to the Melville Nauheim Shelter where she set up her tent and called it a day.

1607.6 miles complete/576.8 miles to go

Appalachian Trail for $1,000.

The animal that charged "Five Pair" on July 9th?

"What is a hummingbird?"

Correct, select your next category.

July 10 – Shelter to Shelter

The trail is becoming increasingly more mountainous as "Five Pair" travels north in Vermont through the Green Mountain National Forest as if trying to prepare the hikers for the White Mountains.

Climbing upward to Porcupine Ridge, the hike turned even further upward towards the 3700 foot summit of Glastenbury Mountain and the photo opportunity view. Thereafter, the hike was a gentle downward trek with a couple ups and downs thrown in for good measure over the next seven miles and then a short hike upward into the Story Spring Shelter area where "Five Pair" met up with "T", "Dos" and "Alpo".

1625.0 miles complete/559.4 miles to go

July 11 - Where It All Began

The goal today was 21 miles away... the town of Manchester Center. So, an early start to the day was had and it began with a downward hike over a couple of streams. Upon leveling out, the hike went skyward for the hike up to the summit of Stratton Mountain. Stratton Mountain holds a special distinction on the Appalachian Trail. It was upon the summit of Stratton that Benton MacKaye envisioned a trail upon which the population centers of the east could find their way to the joys of nature:

McKaye’s article in the 1921 Journal of the American Institute of Architects entitled "An Appalachian Trail: A Project in Regional Planning" was the genesis for the Appalachian Trail.

After taking in the site that inspired MacKaye, "Five Pair" traversed over a half dozen streams over the next fourteen miles and accompanied by "T", she headed into the town for provisions and food where they ran into Dos.

After completing their duties in town, Jeff, the host at the Green Mountain House Hiker Hostel arrived to transport the hikers to the hostel where the day came to its end.

1646.1 miles complete/538.3 miles to go

July 12 - A Walk In the Woods

A slower start this morning and more hills greeted the hikers.

The first incline, Bromley Mountain, serves as a ski slope in the winter and provides views of five states from the tower found at the summit

A couple peaks complete and streams passed, the hike today while at a more leisurely pace still resulted in 16.5 miles being completed when arriving at the Big Branch Shelter area, the end of this day's chapter of "A Walk In the Woods".

Aside: For no other reason than lack of a creative title connected to the events of the day, a link is provided to one of the best known books on an attempted thru-hike of the AT.

1662.6 miles complete/521.8 miles to go

July 13 - Trail Mules

The trail in Vermont continues to act as the transition state and transform the hike from the comparatively gentle slopes of New York and Connecticut to those that lie ahead in New Hampshire.

So onward they hiked and coming down off Vermont’s version of Bear Mountain, the hikers worked their way into the town of Clarendon. The band of pungent Trail travelers including "Five Pair", "T", and "Nitrous Oxide" met up with the "Myakka Mules" and did their best efforts on "all you can eat pizza" at the Whistle Stop Corner Restaurant, an establishment that did not have such a special on their menu.

Chatting during dinner, "Five Pair" learned more of her fellow Floridians, the "Myakka Mules", and the genesis of their trail names. The story of their individual names, Brighty and Gus, unfolded a few nights previous at Green Mountain House.

After conclusion of the feast, the hikers completed the last mile of the day by ascending a steep incline and then down to the 16.9 mark for the day at the Clarendon Shelter area.

1679.5 miles complete/504.9 miles to go

July 14 - "Help, I've Fallen and I Can't Get Up."

The hike for the day was a story of two halves. The first was the slow upward climb of Killington Peak which was rewarded with no view and therefore, no picture. The second half was a generally downward hike, with a couple small ups/downs, toward the road to the ski resort town of Killington.

The day stands out for three happenings of note:

1. The day having three occurrences of Trail Magic. The first magic presented was a cooler with ice water. The second magical event was presented by "Santa’s Helper" (yes, in costume), a hiker presenting the favorite magic of AT hikers including banana, oranges, Lil Debbie snack cakes, soda and water. Five Pair being a big fan of Debbie made sure she had quality time with her sugary friend. The third magical act was a cooler providing a caffeine boost in the form of cold Mountain Dew just as energy levels were bottoming out near the end the day.

2. While on a very thin section of the Trail and having taken in the scent of Douglas Fir, "Five Pair" realized she was within a group of Christmas trees begging to be photograph. So while backing up to get just the right angle of this lovely stand of trees through a very thin path of the trail, a root jumped up and grabbed her by the boot and backwards she fell. "Five Pair" found herself flat on her back lying face up with Christmas trees on both side and feeling, as she described, "like a turtle stranded on its back." With the turtle’s shell being a 30 lb backpack and considering the comparative size of "Five Pair" and the tree confined space, she was left her with two options (i) wait for “Trog”, a hiker "Five Pair" knew to be shortly behind her, or (ii) unsnap her backpack, crawl out of its straps and thereafter, put it back on. For "Five Pair", once her hike begins, she tries to limit the removal of her backpack to once a day namely, when the day is at end. As such, the wait was on and soon after "Trog" arrived, the turtle was righted and the hike continued.

3. "Five Pair" passed the 500 miles to hike mark.

As the day draw to a close, "Five Pair" met up with the "Myakka Mules" and "Nitrous Oxide" for dinner at the Inn at Long Trail and called it a day after a satisfying meal.

1696.9 miles complete/487.5 miles to go

July 15 - Nine Mile Sprint

With a weather report in hand advising rain was coming, "Five Pair" left Killington with spring in her step and the hope to get to a shelter before the rain found her.

Her hike began with a 400 foot incline and then leveled off for the next rocky two miles. The hike then descended 1200 feet to the foot of Quimby Mountain. Being at the foot of a mountain on the AT means only one thing… up. So the next 1.2 miles of the hike was a 1100 foot ascent. Once at the summit, "Five Pair" faced a couple little up and downs and then a descent into the Stony Brook Shelter area. Thereafter, the chase ended as the rain caught “Five Pair" but this time, she was undercover of the shelter.

Also at the shelter was "Alpo", the "Myakka Mules", "Byline", "Sunroof", "Thunderstorm", "Nutter Butter", "Yellow Tail", "Mac", and "Ass Rash" (trail name genesis is self explanatory).

The day ends with the 1,700 miles hiked mark surpassed.

1705.9 miles complete\478.5 miles to go

July 16 - Dawn to Dusk and Then Some

While big ascents and descents pose a physical challenge to hikers of the AT, just as difficult and perhaps more mentally challenging are the pointless ups and downs trail designers seemed to go out of their way to include with no apparent scenic, historic or other "ic" rationale other than perhaps sadistic.

This day started with an immediate descent and back up again followed by more of the same, over and over and over. Fourteen miles into the hike a food stop at On the Edge Farm occurred and then off again.

It was a very long day and with headlamp blazing into the night "Five Pair" hiked until at 9:00pm she found her way into the Thistle Hill Shelter. The tent went up and the day closed with 21.5 miles completed.

The affection that "Five Pair" holds for night hiking is on par with that of hiking in the rain and boulder scrambles at elevation.

1727.4 miles complete\457.0 miles to go

July 17 - Last Day in Vermont

Another day, another weather report and another race by "Five Pair" to a Ground Control acquired landing spot before the arrival of the loathed rain. With precipitation in wet pursuit, "Five Pair" began the day with the extra incentive to move along as dry boots, socks and gear is a massive driving force.

The morning hike was blessed with varied terrain and a lunch time stop in Wet Hartford for a bite to eat at the Village Store. After lunch, a 1000 foot elevation increase was managed then across a ridgeline and down into the town of Norwich, Vermont.

Norwich is a small town chartered in 1761 situated on the Connecticut River with Hanover, New Hampshire bordering the other side of the river. Into the town "Five Pair" hiked and onto the Norwich Inn which welcomed her warmly with nice accommodations just prior to the rain beginning.

"Five Pair" did a quick laundry trip and thereafter enjoyed a meal at the Jasper Murdock’s Alehouse, the Inn’s restaurant and brew pub.

1740.6 miles complete/443.8 miles to go

July 18 - New Hampshire

After a nice sleep and lovely breakfast, "Five Pair" bid farewell to Vermont crossed the bridge and hiked into New Hampshire and was greeted by the very quaint town of Hanover, home of Dartmouth College and according the CNN, one of the best places to live in the United States.

After exiting Hanover, the hike entered the "green tunnel" and was generally a level hike for the first 8 miles with varied terrain. During this part of the hike, "Five Pair" met up with the first photo cooperative chipmunk.

After 8 miles, the trail turned upward first to the north peak of Moose Mountain (2131 ft) where she met up with "Salt Bomb" and then after a 1400 foot descent back up again to Holts Ledge (description of the ledge in AT Guide: "precipitous drop-off of 1937 feet"). Once Holts Ledge was behind her "Five Pair" finished her day fairly early (in other words she set up her tent with the benefit of sun light… a rare occurrence for her), 18.1 miles from the start by hiking into the Trapper John Shelter where she set up camp accompanied by the "Myakka Mules" and "Nitrous Oxide". For those in need, this particular shelter had a privy with signage providing directional assistance:

July 19 - The Day Before the Whites

After several days of the threat of rain, this day, from a weather perspective was beautiful.

This day was all about providing AT hikers with a reintroduction to elevation increases and a very small taste of what lie ahead. One mile out of camp the trail turned upward and increasingly rocky as "Five Pair" hiked to the summit of Smarts Mountain, the first 3000+ foot elevation seen in over ten days. As she headed downward and then turned again upward, she next encountered the Eastman Ledges where she met up with "Old Goose" and "Dream Time".

The next segment of the hike saw an increase in elevation of 1450 feet over the next three miles to the summit of Mt. Cube’s south peak. At the summit of Mt. Cube "Five Pair" had cell service and contacted Ground Control and was advised that her oldest son had been in an accident in Greece and was being transported to a hospital in Athens for surgery on his leg.

Having been advised that all regarding her injured son was in hand, "Five Pair" continued her hike down 2,000 feet and then up 1,000 feet to the Ore Hill campsite where she set up her tent and called it a day. This site used to be occupied by a shelter until last year when a fire destroyed it.

1778.2 miles complete/406.2 miles to go

July 20 - Mount Moosilauke

The day began with a 2½ mile hike to New Hampshire 25C highway and upon crossing that road way, "Five Pair" entered the White Mountain National Forest. The "Whites", as hikers refer to them, is an 800,000 acre forest in which the AT travels 117 miles during which hikers traverse seventeen (17) 4,000 foot peaks.

Upon entering the Whites, "Five Pair" hiked to the modest elevation of 2200 feet to the top of Mount Mist then the trail turned downward to New Hampshire Highway 25 where she met "Man Bear Pig" and "Dude Man Bro". Once she crossed this road, the next five miles was an uphill hike with elevation gain of 3800 feet to the top of Mount Moosilauke, the first 4000 foot peak of the Whites where she met "Shadow Grimm" and was provided the view below.

After the summit, an extremely steep descent followed which on the smooth rock poses as much risk to a hiker as the rocks during an ascent. After descending 3,000 feet over the next 3½ miles with darkness arriving, stiffness having already arrived and 16.4 miles complete, "Five Pair" set up her tent and undertook some "stealth camping" (camping in non-designated locations within the Whites) and for one of the few times without other hikers in the surrounding area.

Mile mark of note: "Five Pair" has less than 400 miles to go.

1794.6 miles complete/389.8 miles to go

July 21 - Oreo Party

". . . "Five Pair" set up her tent and undertook some "stealth camping" (camping in non-designated locations within the Whites) and for one of the few times without other hikers in the surrounding area.”

Or so she thought.

As the sun rose and "Five Pair" awoke, she thought she heard voices. As she emerged from her tent she discovered that while she thought she was stealth tenting alone, in fact, there were three other hikers that had tented close by. So after exchanging greetings, "Easy Turtle", "Hot Sauce" and "Jihad" along with our favorite AT hiker left their campsite and began their assault on Mt Wolf and thereafter the Kinsman Mountains.

Mt. Wolf was a 1,500 foot ascent followed by a 1,000 foot descent and then just shy of a 2,000 foot ascent over the next two miles to South Kinsman Mountain. It was there that "Five Pair" caught up with the other three hikers and while looking exhausted and in need of a boost, "Five Pair" surprised them by pulling out the package of Double Stuff Oreos from her pack and the four tired hikers had an Oreo Party on the summit of their latest conquest.

Thereafter, the hikers attacked the North Kinsman summit and then hiked down a rocky 2,900 foot descent then back up again 2,400 feet where they called it a day at the Liberty Springs campsite. A popular campsite with pebbly, rocky ground (not ideal for tenting), its popularity was shown at the lineups for water and the use of the privy.

The day was complete at 19.2 miles and passing the 1,800 miles hiked mark.

1813.8 miles complete/370.6 miles to go

July 22 - Table for One

Leaving the campsite, the hike began immediately with an ascent to the first 4,000 foot summit of the day being Mount Liberty, a peak within the Franconia Ridge. The base of Mount Liberty is the location of the "The Flume", a natural gorge extending 800 feet at the base with walls of Conway granite rising to a height of 70 to 90 feet and 12 to 20 feet apart. This impressive formation was visited by “Five Pair" and her family two years ago and well before her hike was conceived.

Upon reaching the summit of Mount Liberty, "Five Pair" experienced her first miles above tree line. "Tree line" is the edge of the habitat at which trees are capable of growing and beyond the tree line; trees are unable to grow because of inappropriate environmental conditions. Another point of interest regarding the tree line is that the trees growing near the tree line tend to be quite short and squat as the environmental conditions including high winds, cold and extended periods of snow/frozen ground impact normal growth.

For four miles above the tree line she hiked across the summits of Little Haystack Mountain, Mount Lincoln and Mount Lafayette. The above tree line hike was followed by a several ups and downs involving 1500 foot descents and ascents that included three more 4000+ foot peaks of Mount Garfield, South Twin Mountain and Mount Guyot. The hike over the next four rocky miles descended 2000 ft into the Zealand Falls Hut area after darkness had occurred.

The Appalachian Mountain Club, among other things, manages a series of “huts” in the White Mountains that are very popular destinations for hikers and as such accommodations at the huts can be difficult for thru hikers to obtain given the uncertainty in arrival dates creates reservation difficulties coupled with the popularity of use of the huts by hikers for a base for day hiking over multiple day stays. However, the hut crews who manage the locations and cook breakfast and dinner for the guests have the discretion to offer thru hikers the option to sleep on the floor in exchange for help in cleaning up after meals (the “work for stay” option).

A long day of difficult hiking resulted in "Five Pair" hiking up to the Zealand Falls Hut after Hiker Midnight and with hope and trepidation knocking lightly on the door hoping to find the hut crew amenable to a work for stay if full. While this hut accommodates 36 guests, it was in fact full but thankfully, the hut crew invited "Five Pair" in and provided her a dinner of stuffed shells, bread and water. In speaking with the crew they advised that some guests had indicated a mouse was patrolling the floor so as the crew called it a night, "Five Pair" decided that one of the tables appeared quite comfortable and with air mattress and sleeping bag deployed, the day came to an end 16.1 miles from its start.

1830.9 miles complete/353.5 miles to go

Zealand Falls Hut (built in 1932):

July 23 –Trail Reunion

As the morning arrived, "Five Pair" met "Coconut" and "Lorax" and after breakfast and cleanup duty, the three thru hikers began their hiking day.

As "Five Pair" was working her way down the side of the mountain and towards US 302 she was greeted by the joyful sounds of a delighted "Triple T" racing towards her. While "Five Pair" worked her way through the White Mountains for the past two days, "Ground Control" and "Triple T" had been working their way towards her to take her from the trail for a few days rest and resupply. A happy reunion took place on the trail as the travelers had hiked up to meet "Five Pair" accompanied by "Zig zag". "Ground Control" and "Triple T", having found their way to the area before her arrival, met up with "Zig zag" and "Wing wing" who graciously put them up for the night in the home overlooking the Whites.

Reunion complete, a hike down to the trailhead occurred and after some Trail Magic and discussion with the provider (a thru hiker (’97, ’07 and working on his third completion)), Lorax and Coconut, "Five Pair" left the AT not to return until July 26.

Dinner at the Red Parka Steakhouse & Pub in Glen and the day ended.

1838.8 miles complete/345.6 miles to go

July 24 - Zero Number One

"Five Pair" and family after a restful sleep pursuant to the graciousness of "Zig zag" and "Wing wing" bid adieu to their hosts and found accommodations in neighboring North Conway, a small town with tourist draw. Much to the joy of "Triple T", the accommodations had an indoor pool complete with two large waterslides.

Dinner at the very friendly, very good Irish pub, May Kelly’s Cottage Restaurant and Pub, included the highlight of "Triple T" assisting in the pour of a pint of Guinness for "Ground Control".

A needed full zero enjoyed by "Five Pair" and family.

1838.8 miles complete/345.6 miles to go

July 25 - Zero Number Two

Resupply efforts, food at the Margarita Grille and skyping with injured son of "Five Pair" highlighted the second zero. As the day came to a close, "Five Pair" prepared for return to the AT and "Ground Control" and "Triple T" for their southward journey.

1838.8 miles complete/345.6 miles to go

July 26 - Rain Delay

Waking up to rain and a bad weather report, an executive decision was made to take another zero in North Conway. Dinner and a movie with some additional pack tweaking and the hope for clearing weather.

1838.8 miles complete/345.6 miles to go

July 27 – Lake in the Clouds

posted Aug 2, 2012, 1:05 AM by Jim OBrien

"Ground Control" and "Triple T" drove "Five Pair" to the top of an access road to the prior pickup spot and as she hiked her way down, they drove to the bottom of the hill and awaited her arrival. At 9:00a good-byes were exchanged knowing that the next time they would be together would be at the foot of Mt. Katahdin.

"Five Pair" began her hike with a difficult 3 mile, 2800 foot ascent as she found her way fully into the Presidential Range (the mountains are named for the early U.S. Presidents) of the White Mountains and as she hiked above the tree line she made her way to the first 4,000 foot peak of the day, Mt Webster.

The next 8 rocky miles were wet and all above the tree line. She traversed Mt. Jackson, Mt. Pierce, Mt. Eisenhower, Mt. Franklin and the last peak of the day, Mt. Monroe. As the day came to a close, "Five Pair" found her way to the southern shoulder of Mount Washington and the highest and largest hut (sleeps 90) in the Whites. While the hut is full, the hut staff grant her work for stay. So in the shadow of the highest peak in the Whites, the day ends with difficult days ahead.

Lake in the Clouds hut:

1849.9 miles complete/334.5 miles to go

July 28 - Mount Washington

An immediate ascent of 1275 feet to the summit of Mt. Washington was the greeting awaiting the start of the hike for "Five Pair" and this greeting was an all too lengthy one. Hiking on the wet rocks during an ascent takes its toll in time and mental fatigue and such was the case in this instance. Achieving the summit of Mt. Washington, a welcome respite was taken.

Mount Washington’s bitter cold, freezing fog, heavy snow and legendary wind (highest measured at 231 mph) have contributed to its reputation as being one of the planet’s most extreme places, the "Home of the World’s Worst Weather". The weather this day on Washington was not anywhere near it worst with its worst attribute being light, misty rain.

After a short rest at the summit, the rocky descent began and a hike over Mount Clay and Mount Jefferson with the weather worsening. After summiting Mt. Madison the descent that was to follow was interrupted by the opening of the sky. With an upcoming over 3000 foot boulder scramble descent over the next two miles the increasing rain would render the difficult conditions worse and increase risk beyond reason so "Five Pair" and close by hiker "Nitrous Oxide" quickly found a stealth camping site. The day came to an end as the rain continued to fall with "Five Pair", thankful for the company of "Nitrous Oxide" for the day, tucked in her tent with increasing fatigue and concern for the next day hike being her evening companion.

1857.0 miles complete/327.4 miles to go

July 29 - A Descent Worthy of Dante

As difficult as ascents can be, descents pose different challenges particularly when it includes boulder scrambling over wet surfaces. This was the hike for this day, 3000 feet downward across boulders and rocks of all sizes. "Five Pair" describes frightening conditions with nearby trees have been stripped bare of its limbs as hikers grab anything within reach to try to prevent falls and to aid their descent over the boulders. Falls and bruises are the result of this stretch and they are inflicted upon "Five Pair".

As she slid, climbed, crawled, fell and struggled her way down the side of Mt. Madison a "brook" shown on her trail guide had, due to the rain of the past days, swollen to a very broad, fast running stream replete with white water with depth and speed such that "Five Pair" was uncomfortable attempting to wade across and began searching for a way to cross the stream but none were seen. The description of "a caged tiger" walking back and forth was the description given by the hiker herself as she struggled with the realization that a 4 mile hike down to a road and 4 mile hike back up to the trail on the opposite side of the stream awaited if a solution was not found. Just as all hope was lost, along hiked "Mac", local day hiker and upon hearing the desperate inquiry of "Five Pair" on a manner to cross the rapid flow, she watched him nimbly jump from one rock within the water to another bypassing the angry water and landing on the other side.

Seeing and hearing the lack of confidence from her on her ability to duplicate his efforts, "Mac" repeated his effort in the opposite direction and instructed "Five Pair" on the rocks to use and when further doubt was expressed in her ability to make a leap given the distance and the impact of her 30 pound pack, the outstretched hand of "Mac" provided the extra distance needed in addition to her jump to get to the desired landing spot and with three more jumps, the raging torrent was behind her. Thanks to "Mac" at least 8 bonus miles were avoided and the wet downward march continued.

As she approached US16 and rain continued, the tired, frustrated, bruised, sore and wet hiker recalled the kind offer of "Zigzag" and "Wingwing" that should she need dry accommodations, a good meal and a soft bed, they would be happy to provide such with a simple call. Of course, nothing in the Whites is simple and so goes it with cell phone calls. So where connection is possible but voice calls not, text message and "Ground Control" serve in their stead and such was the case here. "Ground Control" reached "Wingwing" and that night, "Five Pair" returned to the abode of "Zigzag" and "Wingwing" and she was treated to the delicious oriental gastronomic stylings of "Zigzag", able to dry out her gear and a much needed good night sleep.

1864.8 miles complete/319.6 miles to go

July 30 – "This is Not the People’s Trail"

An early start to the day as "Wingwing" put "Five Pair" back on the trail by 6:30am.

Dried out from the prior days hiking in the rain, after the first mile the trail became a physical challenge that tested "Five Pair" beyond anything previously encountered. The reputation of the Whites Mountains as being difficult is richly deserved.

The next 3/10 of a mile was an 800 foot ascent followed by rocky crevasses and shear rock ascents which require hikers to hang onto ledges while looking for footholds to be able to pull yourself up to the top of the cliff. Hiking alone for the most part, but for the occasional interaction with a south bound hiker, the challenges of finding footholds and ledges to grasp for one of diminutive stature almost became overwhelming as the fear of falling to certain serious injury weighed upon her.

Up and down over ridiculously difficult terrain with the following mile being a 1200 foot ascent to Peak E of Wildcat Mountain (the first of four 4000+ summits of peaks on Wildcat to be hiked that day). Upon reaching the summit of Peak E and after the wet, rocky trail over the four peaks, the AT dropped precipitously 1000 feet over the next ½ mile over rocks and boulders. Frustration and angst increased as the physical abuse being absorbed due to frequent falls took their toll on "Five Pair".

While "Five Pair" readily admits that she would never be accused of being a speed hiker, the first 5½ miles of the day ending at Carter Notch took 7 ½ hours.

After Carter Notch, the next ascent was 1500 feet to the summit of Carter Dome (4832’) where the trail proceeded to Mt. Hight then down 750 feet to the Zeta Pass back up to Middle Carter Mountain (4610’) and then finally, 2 ½ miles down another rocky descent of 1200 feet to the Imp Shelter campsite where "Five Pair" found her way there just before Hiker Midnight.

As "Five Pair" relayed the events of the 14 hour day, the fear and frightening conditions she encountered and recalled the narration of the National Geographic documentary on the AT wherein the term "People’s Trail" was thrown about to imply a wilderness escape for the common man, her mindset was clear as she stated "That show doesn’t show the Trail for what it is. This is not the People’s Trail."

1877.9 miles/306.5 miles to go

July 31 – The Wall

In athletic events involving endurance, athletes speak of a point in the event where the body and mind approaches a mental and physical place that hurts and they physically and mental cannot get over, around, or through this road block; it literally feel as though they have run straight into "The Wall."

With the stress of the prior day still weighing on her, "Five Pair" set off on the first ascent of the day and immediately fell several times onto the rocks. The combination of the physical strains faced in recent days, accumulated fatigue, hiking alone for an extended period and the stresses on and off the trail of the past week came to a head.

Through the wall "Five Pair" hiked and early in the afternoon she emerged from the Whites bruised, sore but successful in having completed the acknowledged most difficult part of the AT. Having exited the Whites, she headed for the White Mountain Hostel, a new hiker hostel which had quickly gained reputation for being one of the best hiker stops on the trail.

Just after 2:00p, "Five Pair" had made it to the hostel and and advised that she had enjoyed an Epsom salt soak. She was happy to see "T" at the hostel and she commenced to do her best to duplicate a Michael Phelps type meal by ingesting a Whopper Junior, onion rings, Cinabon, Coke float, Ben & Jerrys ice cream and a Mango smoothie for a late lunch. After lunch, she and "T" enjoyed a snack of strawberry short cake.

"T" shared her stories of falls, pain and stress related to her hike through the Whites that had ended at Pinkham Notch. Unfortunately for "Five Pair", "T’s" time on the trail had come to an end as her employment beckoned for her return. "Ground Control" advised that communications had been exchanged and "Dos" was also on the way to the hostel.

Shortly thereafter, "Dos" arrived with her own stories of pain and suffering related to the Whites with her Whites experience also ending at Pinkham Notch. The hikers exchanged thoughts and it was decided that they would hike through Maine and summit together.

The day ended with a renewed sense of determination and sense of accomplishment having hiked inside of less than 300 miles to go.

1885.9 miles complete/298.5 miles to go