June 1 – You Can Run but You Cannot … Well Actually You Can Hide
The morning started with a grim weather report and "Five Pair" was determined to outpace the coming storm system. Out of the Front Royal Terrapin Station Hostel she trekked and back onto the AT.
As she made her way up the trail, it became apparent to her that her pace was not quick enough to stay in front of the gathering storm so a quick call to Ground Control confirmed her assessment of the weather predicament. "Five Pair" had stopped at the Jim & Molly Denton Shelter and as it being one of the nicest shelters she had seen complete with porch, chairs and a solar shower, she determined to take a break there and let the storm pass. "Dos" made her way through and determined to keep hiking regardless of the storm. The storm came as expected and after dumping lots of rain for two hours, passed and "Five Pair" began her hike anew. To see a picture of one of the nicest shelters to date, click here to see the Jim & Molly Denton Shelter.
Given the down time due to the storm, "Five Pair" hiked on into Manassas Gap, an area steeped in Civil War history and the territory of the famed "Grey Ghost", John S. Mosby, Confederate cavalry battalion commander of "Mosby’s Rangers". Mosby operated with such impunity in this area, it was referred to as "Mosby’s Confederacy."
The day running from rain ended at after 14.5 miles at Manassas Shelter
974.1 miles complete/1,210.3 miles to go
June 2 – AT Amusement Park Ride and Bear’s Den Reunion
The day started like every other… packing up followed by one foot after the other.
The goal today was to conclude at the Bear’s Den Trail Center & Hostel, a renowned 1933 stone lodge operated by the local AT club, and within a whisper of the 1,000 mile mark. However, before the comforts offered by this locale, "Five Pair" would have to engage and endure the notorious Virginia AT Roller Coaster.
Hiking the AT involves elevation gain and loss equivalent to ascending Mount Everest from sea level to its 29,035-foot summit… 16 and a half times. Given the terrain and time on the AT, by the time a thru-hiker reaches northern Virginia they are as fit as they will ever be and that's a very good thing as they will be tested by the "Virginia Roller Coaster". A test for even the hardiest hiker, the Virginia Roller Coaster runs for approximately 14 miles up and over 10 mountain ridges with each ridge boasting elevation changes of upward of 500 feet. The Bear’s Den can be found just past the halfway mark into the Roller Coaster and would be a fitting exit location for "Five Pair" to jump off for a dry comfortable evening and end product from the pizza oven at the lodge.
A very pleasant surprise greeted "Five Pair" upon arrival, "Kindle Ninja". He was taking a couple zero days as he nursed an injury and was taking in some kayaking. As "Five Pair" caught up with "Kindle Ninja", he provided some updates to "Five Pair" on their early hiking companions with the whereabouts of "Bucket" unknown, "Austin" a couple days ahead, and "Spiderman" at home nursing an injury.
A nice end to a vigorous 22.8 mile day of hiking as "Five Pair" found the women’s dorm to be a quiet luxury as just "Five Pair" and one female staffer from the Bear’s Den were the occupants.
996.9 miles complete/1,187.5 miles to go
June 3 – Harpers Ferry and the Return of "Triple T"
Leaving the comforts of the Bear’s Den, the hike today would take "Five Pair" to many hikers’ psychological midway point and the home of the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, Harpers Ferry, West Virginia.
"Five Pair" arrived into the Harpers Ferry area when entering Harpers Ferry National Historical Park and immediately was greeted by an increasingly rocky trail and more boulders to climb over. "Five Pair" has truly begun to question the sadistic intentions of those responsible for the path of the trail when the path chosen is directly over boulders and just a short distance away is a level, grassy route. Regardless, the climbing was accomplished and she began descending towards the Shenandoah River.
While unquestionably arriving in Harpers Ferry and the obligatory visit to the office of the ATC for her thru-hiker photo would be one of the highlights of the day, the big moment of the day arrived when Ground Control delivered "Triple T" to the crossover point on Chestnut Hill Road and the 10 year old hiker raced toward and jumped into a hug with his favorite hiker. After the embrace, the two hikers continued their way down towards the river and across the bridge to Harpers Ferry.
Upon reaching Harpers Ferry, the two hikers visited the ATC where they signed in at the office and the picture was taken for the records of the ATC ("Five Pair" was hiker #342). "Five Pair" looked at the hiker log and found "Bucket" and "Austin" and several other hikers just a day or two ahead.
"Five Pair" also confirmed that "Haus" had officially been tagged with a new trail name. The hiker formally known as "Haus" had greeted a dog he bumped into on his hike and apparently the dog mistakenly believed "Haus" to be nutrition and acted on this impulse and this act became the genesis for his new trail name: "Alpo"
Thereafter, a walk around Harpers Ferry resulted in more joy for "Triple T" when "Duke" was spotted and "Triple T" had the opportunity to meet his favorite canine hiker while "Duke’s Keeper" was securing some ice cream. After dinner and desert, "Five Pair" and "Triple T" were transported to Ground Control’s chosen shelter and some quick pack organization occurred as an early morning was on the agenda.
1017.6 miles complete/1,166.8 miles to go
June 4 – Five Star Shelter
Ground Control transported "Five Pair" and "Triple T" back to the spot they left the trail and after good-byes the two began their trek.
After crossing into Maryland the morning hike, the two ate lunch at the Ed Garvery Shelter. This shelter is a very nice example of a shelter with a loft for sleeping and a porch with table with a nice overlook.
The hike took them through the Gathland State Park where they ran across a vending machine where each selected a cold soda. As the temperatures are beginning to rise, locating cold beverages are a trail luxury.
The day for the hikers ended at the equally nice Rocky Run Shelter which looked to be recently finished and has acquired the "Five Pair’s" Shelter Recommendation.
First they met a hiker who had stayed at the shelter the entire day as he had quite the previous day. This particular hiker had lost his way and was convinced that a bear was following him so he continued anxiously hiking through the darkness finding his way to the Rocky Run Shelter at 3am where he stayed the entire day.
The second item of note occurring at the Rocky Run Shelter was the resident cat. This feline shelter occupant took a liking to "Five Pair’s" snack bag and bit a hole in it. Nothing to fear as duct tape was near and the patch work was accomplished quickly.
Lastly, "Five Pair" and "Triple T" met "Sunshine", a college student, Sunshine’s girlfriend Adrienne, and Sunshine’s 15 year old sister, Ashley, who were on a weekend hike. As "Five Pair" went about setting up the tent, "Triple T" assisted "Sunshine" who worked diligently on getting a wonderful fire going and after enjoying it for a while, the hikers called it a day.
1032.8 miles complete/1151.6 miles to go
June 5 - History and a Hostel
The morning began with a quick breakfast with "Sunshine", Adrienne and Ashley and good-byes.
The hike took them through the site of the 1862 Battle of Foxes Gap of the Antietam Campaign of the Civil War and by two memorials for the Generals who fell during the battle, CSA General Samuel Garland and Union General Jesse Reno.
Two hours later the hikers found themselves looking at and climbing up Washington’s Monument. Built by locals to celebrate Independence Day in 1827 the structure was the first public monument built to honor George Washington.
Onward they trekked until finding their way to the Free State Hiker Hostel in Smithsburg, Maryland, where "Triple T" reveled in an 18” pizza
1048.3 miles complete/1136.1 miles to go
June 6 – Burgundy and a Bath
After the previous two 15 mile days, the game plan today was a leisurely "almost nero day" of 9 miles and a stay at the Burgundy Lane B&B in Waynesboro, Pennsylvania.
As the hikers left the hostel, one of the feline occupants decided to hike along with "Triple T" and did so for the first 30 minutes across a meadow. Soon the hikers then found themselves into the Pen Mar Park.
As the hikers moved deeper into Pen Mar they crossed several streams and "Triple T" decided that was the perfect time to break out a celebratory lunch… leftover pizza from last night!
At Virginia SR16 and after a quick call, a pick-up by the proprietors of the B&B and "Five Pair" was able to check the third of the four sleeping arrangements that "Triple T" would experience in this five day hike, shelter, hostel, B&B and tenting. Upon entry into the B&B, "Triple T" was introduced to Murphy, the dog of the manor, and enjoyed his time with him.
The hikers found themselves into the "Castle Room" which provided that opportunity to take a luxurious bath in the old style ball and claw foot soak tub of which both hikers took advantage. The owner was nice enough to transport the hikers to the local grocer where they could restock and "Triple T" secured another dinner time staple, hotdogs. After the grocery, dinner was served and the hikers called it a day.
1,058.0 miles complete/1,123.9 miles to go
June 7 – "That Guy" and the Hotdog Deal
After a hot breakfast at the Burgundy Lane B&B and a quick ride back to the pick-up spot, the hiking for the day began.
After 9 miles of woods, rocks, and crossing streams, the two hikers hiked into Tumbling Run Shelters and assessed the goal for the day. At this shelter, "Triple T", floundering for the motivation to do another 15 mile day, and "Five Pair" met "DayPak", a two time conqueror of the Appalachian Trail and from who "Triple T" found laughs and the motivation to continue on.
After his new found inspiration and a campfire deal struck, "Triple T" and "Five Pair" left the confines of the Tumbling Run Shelter and moved on to a 900 elevation climb over the next two miles followed by a moderate four mile trek during which "Triple T" renewed his acquaintance with "DayPak" and strolled into the Rocky Mountain Shelter where the previously struck deal materialized. The assistance of "Triple T" by "DayPak" in wood gathering and fire starting resulted in the payment by "Triple T" in hotdogs and marshmallows over the fire. Joining the three at the shelter were "Diesel" and "Galileo" (she adopted her trail name being appreciative of his life's travails and journey).
After enjoying the fire and the company, "Triple T" and "Five Pair" called an end to the day.
Click here for "DayPak’s" take on the day:
Along the way I met up with the mother/son that GI Joe had talked about meeting yesterday. Her name is Five Pair and started on Springer the same day as I did. Her son is 10 and is doing the second 5 day section with her. His name is Triple T ... (T)alks a lot, (T)ooting since the trail food gives him gas and (T)ortoise, just because he likes them. So we talked a bit and I found out they had stayed at the hostel the previous night, a b&b last night and tonight they were going to tent out. It was funny because as I was leaving Trip T was eating some Oreo cookies out of a big package. When he was done he gave them back to his mom. In my joking manner, I told him he was rude for not offering me any and that my feelings were hurt. He said he would make up for it by giving me one of his hot dogs if I helped gather the wood and helped him with building a fire later. I could do the math and could tell they were not doing long days. So I said sure, if we meet up again and he gives me a hot dog, we had a deal, if I gathered the wood. Now remember, in over 5500 AT miles, the amount of times I have gathered fired wood is like 1, if that. I hate doing that. The sites are usually picked over, and the chance of spraining an ankle or picking up a tick as you rummage through the thickets for sticks is, in my opinion, just not worth it. So I was safe in making the deal.
In two more shelters I stopped to get some extra water since the Shelter I wanted to stay at up ahead had a bad water source. So for the first time this hike I actually hiked with my 0.7 liter water bottle and one extra liter of water. As I was there the two of them were coming in. The next shelter was 6 more miles and had an 1000 foot climb. Not bad for me but this would make it a 15 mile day for Trip T. That's a big day for a ten year old out for a five day section. As I was coming back from getting my water, I over heard Trip T say to him mom, "well if THAT GUY could do it then I know we could do it". Really, a ten year old out for a short section is making that comment about me, a thru hiker, pounding out a 25 like its pudding. So that was it. I raised my hands repeating "that guy ... That guy, I'm DayPak dammit ... When did I become That guy". We all had a good laugh out of the whole thing and away I went leaving them to discuss their plans.
At the top of the climb was chimney rocks. It was close so I took the blue blaze to check it out. Another pile of rocks with a lame 1200 foot view to a valley that looked just like every other valley but even closer. Not worth the effort. Sorry PA but you really don't have views.
So in about a mile, who do I come up on ... Trip T and Five Pair. I was very surprised they moved on. So I hiked with them, actually him, and the two of us had a very fun conversation the entire rest of the hike. Even after 15 miles this kid didn't complain one time. Amazing. And he talked non-stop and I mean NON STOP. But he's a real smart kid with lots of questions. A real straight forward person. But I guess at ten you should be. Also very respectful of his mother as she lagged behind us.
So once at the shelter I was reminded of the deal I made. It had rained a bit but we were able to gather enough wood to keep dry until the rain stopped. So right after it stopped, we started a fire. I gathered a lot more wood and had a real blazer of a fire. It was a lot of fun. Trip T had the camp fire experience I think he was waiting for. We had our hot dogs and even some marshmallows. I think mom was going to enjoy not having the extra pack weight anymore. It really was a fun time.
Also in the shelter was Galileo and diesel. Diesel was getting off trail at Pine Grove Furnace. He just had enough hiking for one year. Galileo choose her name since she was Italian and liked the journey he represented. She is completing a section from mid Shennies to NJ/NY.
It started to get late, so I started the sleeping process at 8:30 Trip T and his mom went off to their tent, I went to the shelter with Diesel to give Galileo her own shelter. As it turned out, two more hikers came in later and ended up in the same shelter as Galileo. A good trail day.
1,073.3 miles complete/1,111.1 miles to go
June 8 – The Close of "Triple T" Week 2
The morning came and "Five Pair" and "Triple T" bid adieu to "DayPak" and moved down the trail.
As the hikers hiked and climbed their way down the trail, they approached the Quarry Gap Shelter and it was clear that this was no ordinary shelter. Maintained generally by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club this shelter was the first seen by "Five Pair" to have an "innkeeper." That’s right… an Innkeeper. In this instance, it’s a gentleman named Jim Stauch who oversees the shelter and adds little touches generally not seen elsewhere including a "Welcome" gate, hanging flowers and a picnic table. This is the Ritz Carlton of shelters and "Five Pair" and "Triple T" enjoyed lunch there.
Moving on the hikers next approached the Birch Run Shelter and while this shelter did not have the touches that the innkeeper had bestowed upon the Quarry Gap Shelter, it was a class apart from most others and also gets two thumbs up from the renown shelter critics "Five Pair" and "Triple T".
Onward the hikers went toward Shippensburg Road in the middle of the Tumbling Run Game Preserve and after a few minutes wait, Ground Control arrived to transport his two favorite hikers to a shelter of his choice and a dinner designed to celebrate the time spent by "Triple T" on the AT with is Mom, "Triple T’s" completing the entire AT through Maryland and maximize caloric intake… and he was wildly successful in all regards with a local restaurant, EJ’s Grill in Chambersburg.
1,087.4 miles complete/1,097.0 miles to go
June 9 - Good-bye Again
After a good night sleep and a bit of pack organization, it was off to do a quick load of laundry and during that process to Cracker Barrel for one last caloric juggernaut before "Five Pair" was back to the AT and trail rations.
Following Chicken–N-Dumplins and of course, desert, "Five Pair" was transported back to Shippensburg Road and the spot she came off the trail with "Triple T" after he had logged 72 more AT miles. Hugs good-bye were followed by "Triple T" and Ground Control watching "Five Pair" hike away.
Given the late start for the day, it was a short hike of a bit over 8 miles for "Five Pair" to the stopping point of the day, Pine Grove, home of the hiker half gallon challenge and one of the AT hostel icons, Ironmasters Mansion Hostel.
A little past four miles into her hike, "Five Pair" past the 1,092.2 mile mark and midpoint of the Appalachian Trail. A photo of the marker and “Five Pair” reveals to keen eyes a posted distance aberration.
Onward the hike progressed to the home of the hiker half gallon challenge. The name describes the challenge and it is open to all AT hikers willing to attempt to ingest in one sitting an entire half gallon of ice cream. While "Five Pair" enjoys desert as much as anyone (actually she enjoys them more than anyone), inhaling a half gallon was not to her liking although a smaller portion was.
Just past the site of the Half Gallon Challenge is Ironmaster’s Mansion Hostel, a historic site house converted to the resting place for hikers and "Five Pair" checks in and finds here way to the dining room for dinner. Dinner revealed known hikers were there, including "Pedestrian" and "Stingray".
After dinner, the day was done.
1,095.7 miles complete/1,088.7 miles to go
June 10 – View vs. Snickers
With a review of her AT guide and conversation with "Pedestrian" and "Stingray", it was decided that a 20 mile day was in store and the day began with the three hikers heading out from the Ironmaster Mansion Hostel.
As the hikers made their way along the Trail, "Pedestrian" and "Stingray" convinced "Five Pair" to take the Pole Steeple Side Trail to a view. While "Five Pair" likes a view as much as the next hiker she is somewhat stingy in terms of "Bonus Miles" she undertakes on the AT but her hiker companions convinced her so down that side trail she went. Upon arriving at the view and while appreciative, "Five Pair" was less than overwhelmed and believed the view needed some assistance. Having considered the need, she withdrew from her pack what she believed would turn this site into a glorious event it was yearning to be . . . a Snickers bar.
After returning to the AT, the hikers found their way to Boiling Springs, Pennsylvania, and the Allenberry Resort Inn and Playhouse, a hiker friendly upscale facility that provides thru-hikers incredible discounted accommodations and at which on the previous night hosted the Appalachian Trail Hall of Fame Dinner.
At dinner, "Five Pair", "Pedestrian" and "Stingray" met up with "Duke’s Keeper", "Duke", "Honey Badger" and a new thru-hiker "Leebob", engineer from Tennessee and the day ended.
1,115.2 miles complete/1,069.2 miles to go
June 11 – "Legendary"
The hikers set off from the upscale Allenberry with the plan to hike the 25 miles to Duncannon, Pennsylvania.
During the hike, "Five Pair" blessed herself with some "Bonus Miles" as she had not seen a blaze for some time and then realized there was a simple explanation. So she turned around and headed back to get back on the actual Appalachian Trail.
Six and a half miles before Duncannon, the trail turned extremely rocky and became increasingly less enjoyable but none the less, "Five Pair" entered Duncannon and made her way to the Doyle Hotel and met up with "Duke", "Duke’s Keeper", "Honey Badger" and "Leebob".
Toby Gohn, Travel Expert of Great Outdoor Recreation Pages a/k/a GORP, describes the Doyle Hotel as follows: "To anyone other than a tired hiker, the accommodations are, shall we say, "simple", complete with exposed wiring and creaky beds." The Doyle Hotel provides cheap accommodations but good food and drink however with almost every AT hiker stopping and paying a visit to the Doyle, the owners believe the general public are in need of a "WARNING" (see below).
So "Five Pair" ends her day at the Doyle Hotel referred to by hikers and AT enthusiasts as "Legendary".
1,140.9 miles complete/1,043.5 miles to go
June 12 – Gene Kelly Tribute
Being in town provides ample cell signal for detailed information to be passed along to "Five Pair" and this day was an example of such. Storms rolled into Duncannon and the surrounding area overnight but "Five Pair" was itching to get some miles in so when advised that an opening in the weather had appeared, off she went.
A late start due to waiting for an opening in the wet weather, dictated a quick pace by "Five Pair" in an attempt the storm cell moving in from the southwest. However, Mother Nature had other ideas, cleared her throat and decided to let her voice be heard in the form of rain throughout the day. Just after the skies opened up, "Five Pair" danced into to Clarks Ferry Shelter.
Two hours later "Five Pair" went singing down the trail when another break in the weather occurred. Six miles later "Five Pair" arrived at her destination, Peters Mountain Shelter, and while the rain continued to come down she danced into the empty shelter and hung up her socks and shoes hoping they might dry overnight.
1152.1 miles complete/1,032.3 miles to go
June 13 – May I Take Your Order?
With better weather predicted for the day, "Five Pair" saw 18 miles for the day.
Into the hike and as "Five Pair" approached a road crossover, joy in the form of Trail Magic appeared. This version came complete with seating, menus and service. Immediately, "Five Pair" removed her still damp boots and socks and settled in for lunch compliments of Bob and his friends. "Five Pair" was provided a menu and ordered her Trail Magic which consisted of a turkey pasta entre, deviled eggs, fruit and a Pepsi. A drink refill of lemonade preceded a two course dessert, a chocolate cupcake with peanut butter icing followed by a chocolate cupcake with peanut butter icing.
After a long satisfying meal, "Five Pair" and her full stomach went back onto the trail and headed out to her shelter destination.
Arriving at the Rausch Gap Shelter with her 18 miles complete and looking at an empty shelter, "Five Pair" began settling in only to have four hikers arrive shortly thereafter and a change to tenting would now be the sleeping arrangement. The hikers were new to "Five Pair": "Lone Star" from Texas and father passed away recently and taking some time off by biking from Texas to Georgia, hiking the AT and planning on biking home to Texas after completing the AT, "Danish" college grad from Denmark and living in Germany, "Metric" refers to all distances and measurements along the trail in kilometers, and "Bad Dinner" actual genesis of trail name unknown but provides different answer each time asked. As the five began settling in, "Honey Badger", "Duke" and "Duke’s Keeper" hiked into camp.
1170.1 miles complete/1,014.3 miles to go
June 14 – Attire Agenda
Four hikers left this morning with 23 miles on the agenda and the other three were less committal. With one 500 foot elevation climb the hike today while relatively flat was a day of rocky hiking with a couple views and coming across a tortoise with yellow markings.
When west was supposed to be east "Five Pair" continued her recent affliction with AT misdirectionitis. Within minutes the symptomatic lack of blazes it became apparent to "Five Pair" that she was once again afflicted and immediately undertook a curative path and walked herself out of this most recent bout the dreaded "Bonus Miles". Minutes later than would have occurred had the involuntary detour been avoided, "Five Pair" hiked into and joined "Lone Star", "Honey Badger", "Duke" and "Duke’s Keeper" at the Hertlein Campsite and Picnic Table (yes, there is a picnic table there). The other three hikers stopped earlier at the 501 Shelter.
During this day, another number event occurred. "Five Pair" passed the mark of less than 1,000 miles to Mt. Katahdin and while this constituted a tremendous achievement, there was a more important thought in the mind of "Five Pair". Before there was "Five Pair" there was just a hiker with a back pack sporting enough options to provide a family of five each with a set of clothing and with 80 days of experience on the AT no change has occurred related to garment freshness.
Considering that other hiker’s considerations concerning clothes concluded a considerable time ago, the continued commitment to cleanliness is clearly commendable and constituted a core, concise concept for the day… coordinating closeness to a laundry facility in Hamburg, PA.
1193.2 miles complete/991.2 miles to go
June 15 – “Another Day”
The plan today was 19 miles so that the hiker could find their way into Hamburg, Pennsylvania, and the laundry room at the MicroTel Inn.
Along the way the sight of a deer with an orange appearance was secured, more "Bonus Miles" were endured and passed the 1,200 miles hiked mark "Five Pair" soared.
The AT took "Five Pair" through trail town Port Clinton onward to Hamburg but first a stop at Walmart so as to resupply... then onward to the MicroTel for laundry and food.
"Duke", "Duke’s Keeper" and "Honey Badger" were also in Hamburg and the human hikers found their way to pub grub at the MicroTel. As the food was consumed a local band set up and began playing and the evening found new heights of interest when Joe Dirt made his arrival. Notwithstanding the engaging, visual attraction of a man in 2012 sporting a mullet, the day ended.
1,211.8 miles complete/972.6 miles to go
June 16 – Celestial Visible Electromagnetic Radiation and Bioluminescenc
Breakfast, packing and a return engagement with Chicken–N-Dumplins at Cracker Barrel was the beginning of the day. Thereafter, "Five Pair" awaited a ride by friends of "Duke’s Keeper" back to the AT as the friends were picking "Duke" and "Keeper" up to meet up with some friends.
"Five Pair" began her hiking around 3:30p and with just a bit over 14 miles to go she picked up the pace. Notwithstanding the quickened hiking, the sun set and "Five Pair" anticipated she would soon find herself walking in increasing darkness as she made her way to the shelter area. Headlamps availability became less necessary as two incredible displays occurred. The first was the impressive light display provided by the stars above as the lack of light pollution in combination with a waning crescent provided a memorable display. The second was a massive display of the Pennsylvania state insect, photuris pennsylvanica, otherwise known as the Pennsylvania firefly. The beauty of the stars and flies made the darkness lighter and hiking time faster and "Five Pair" found her way into the Eckville Shelter. Her arrival was greeted by two female short term hikers who offered up quite the spread of food, "Dos" and the shelter caretaker, a three time AT thru hiker, who provided "Five Pair" a soda.
After a quick dinner, the tent went up and the day was done.
1226.5 miles complete/957.9 miles to go
June 17 – Blaze... Come Out, Come Out Wherever You Are
"Five Pair" headed out knowing a clear day would bring the opportunity to get some dry miles in.
A little after 2pm as she descended a ridge and approached a crossover road "Five Pair" spotted a restaurant, took an AT detour and settled into a booth and ordered up a dessert. Considering the dining options for the day, "Five Pair" determined a cheeseburger to go would be just what would be necessary for dinner so an order to go was filled and she returned to the AT.
Like spinach to Popeye, dessert provides the same affect for "Five Pair" and off she set with renewed big mileage aspirations only to run into her hiking Bluto, the dreaded boulder scramble.
Crawling, climbing, climbing and crawling with the only saving grace being that it wasn’t raining. This particular version of the boulder scramble included the formations named "Knife Edge" and "Bear Rocks" and in addition to the joy of hiking on her hands and knees this particularly boulder scramble introduced the hidden blaze. With no sign of a blaze "Five Pair" was left to guess what direction to climb, climb to the top of the boulders and after getting to the top, attempt to spot a blaze and then adjust direction.
After 17.4 miles ,winning the blaze hide and seek game and crawling over the last boulder, "Five Pair" hiked into the Bake Oven Knob Shelter area (not one of the best shelters or camps on the AT) with just one other hiker there, "Dos", set up her tent and called it a day.
1243.9 miles complete/940.5 miles to go
June 18 – Rock, Rock, Rock, Rock Around the Clock (or at least for seven hours)
"Five Pair" and "Dos" after consultation with weather websites and Ground Control headed out hoping for another clear day that would allow them to get good miles in.
Making good time for the first seven miles and "Five Pair" having suffered her first trail mishap that drew blood, "Five Pair" and "Dos" hiked down and crossed over the Lehigh River and consistent with advise received from other hikers, "Five Pair" and "Dos" began the rest of their hiking day by being greeted by rocks of all sizes and shapes, small, medium and large, some to step on or over and some climb on and over. The initial 1,000 foot ascent over the next rocky 1½ miles was followed by 10 more miles of rocks.
"Five Pair" described it as "brutal" and "incredible" and added -"but once I got used to it, it was kind of fun."
After an afternoon of playing in rocks with having completed 20.1 miles for the day, the hikers set up camp in a location just off the trail and just as they completed their efforts, well know local Trail Angel and Trail Maintainer "Mechanical Man" (a/k/a John Stempa) arrived and offered assistance to which "Five Pair" and "Dos" happily accepted. Tomorrow Mrs. Stempa will return the hikers back to the trail so the journey can continue.
Click Here for "Dos's" narrative of the rocks.
1264.0 miles complete/920.4 miles to go
June 19 – "Ridiculous… Truly Unbelievable"
"Five Pair" and "Dos" returned to the trail with clear sky and hope that the rocks of the previous day were behind them. They got clear sky.
The twelve miles of rocks of the previous day were described as "brutal" and "incredible" however, as it turns out that experience was just a taste of what lie ahead. While this day’s hike was interrupted briefly by deer, snake and two HUGE bears (much larger than the bear in the video posted here) crossing in front of the hikers, the 23.6 miles hiked today was essentially twice the distance of rocks of the previous day and was suffered without a break.
Physically worn down, the two hikers made their way to the Deer Head Inn in Delaware Water Gap, Pennsylvania, boardering New Jersey, with laundry, cleaning up and food on the agenda and now with less than 900 miles to the summit of Mt. Katahdin.
A tired "Five Pair" in summarizing the hike provided this assessment: "ridiculous…. truly unbelievable."
1287.6 miles complete/896.8 miles to go
June 20 – The Last to the Mohicans
The morning for "Five Pair" and "Dos" included sleeping in, an indulgent breakfast and a trip by "Dos" to the post office for a package pickup.
Given the rockfest of the prior two days, a light hike of just over 10 miles was the plan and when the hikers crossed into New Jersey just before 11am they renewed their acquaintance with their unpleasant hiking companion of the past two days, rocks, but the hike this day was made all the more memorable by an equally unwelcome companion, oppressive heat.
The two hikers hailing from different home environments opted for differing strategies this day regarding the hike. "Five Pair" being used to high temperatures and humidity opted to hike on. "Dos", with more moderate climate background, decided to sit out the midday heat and pick up the hike when the heat broke.
The heat rose to stifling levels and peaked at 97° F and didn’t begin dropping until late in the afternoon placing "Five Pair" five hours in front of "Dos". With cell service available, "Dos" was able to connect with "Five Pair" just before dark and advised that she was several hours away and "Five Pair" warned that a sandwich and soda awaited her arrival at the Mohican Outdoor Center. As the night wore on "Five Pair" decided to work her way back to the trail crossover and await "Dos’s" arrival. Just before 11pm in the distance the beam of "Dos’s" headlamp made itself known as did her voice as she stumbled into a sleeping camper who had thoughtlessly set up his hammock off the trail but in the way of "Dos's" late night hiking excursion. After that short interruption, "Dos" made it to the crossover point whereafter the two hikers arrived at the Mohican Outdoor Center and called an end to a day with different hiking experiences for each but nonetheless long for both.
1298.1 miles complete/886.3 miles to go
June 21 – Weather Race #1 – “Can They Beat the Heat?”
The plan was an early exit so as to beat the heat so the hikers headed out before 7am with the end goal being the Branchville, New Jersey area.
Down the trail "Five Pair" and "Dos" journeyed and as the number of steps they took increased, so did the heat as the mercury moved into the mid 90s as the day wore on.
In between wiping the “glistening” from their brows and eyes (remember readers… ladies don’t sweat, they glisten), "Five Pair" saw two bears and an impressive example of the handiwork of one of nature’s finest engineers, the beaver.
As they approached their destination for the day, a local restaurant came into view and non-trail food became the reality. "Five Pair" and "Dos" were joined for dinner by two other female hikers that "Dos" had met previously, "Huff" and "Puff".
After dinner, the day drew to a close 17.9 miles from where it started and over 1300 miles from Springer Mountain.
1316.0 miles complete/868.4 miles to go
June 22 – Weather Race #2 – “Can They Abstain from the Rain?”
The combination of the morning weather forecast and "Five Pair’s" overwhelming aversion to hiking in precipitation yielded yet another day of racing from the rain.
With packs ready, the hikers were set to go onward down the trail to the destination for the day, the northern part of High Point State Park with this particular stopping point having the luxury of a pickup by a local lodging facility that has, yep you guessed it, laundry facilities.
This day saw lower temperatures (mid 80s) and while rocky, not nearly as bad as the hikes of the previous days. More wildlife was to be seen including several bears with one crossing the trail just twenty feet in front of "Five Pair". Upon observing "Five Pair" and her standard reaction (grab the camera), the bear simply turned and scampered into the forest creating quite the commotion as it ran through the brush.
A ranger station just off the AT is where the lodging pickup would occur and as the hikers approached it, the skies began to open up. With a quicker pace, the hikers entered the ranger station and were greeted by a number of other hikers looking for refuge from the rain. "Five Pair" met "Peeper", "Hawk" and "Blues Clues" among others.
The lodging pickup occurred, a pasta dinner was had and the day drew to a close with the next portion of the AT meandering along the New Jersey/ New York border for 25 miles before saying good-bye to New Jersey approximately 30 miles from New York City.
1330.3 miles complete/854.1 miles to go
June 23 – AT’s Version of a Scandinavian Buffet-Style Meal
An early start with visions of 25 miles and a night at Wawayanda Shelter, "Five Pair" and "Dos" headed out.
The hikers started out hiking on rocks, then uphill, on gravel, crossed many roads, crossed streams, paved areas, footbridges, through heavily wooded areas, across a wooden sidewalk through a swamp and over a suspension bridge. The terrains and path were as varied as any day on the trail.
As the day wore on, the hikers determined that they were within striking of a local establishment that boasts a large selection of homemade ice cream, homemade strudel, fresh kettle corn and homemade warm cider donuts. So off the trail they went and three miles into Vernon, New Jersey, the hikers found themselves considering the offerings of the Heaven Hill Farm.
Hikers on the trail often succumb to the siren calls of food establishments but unlike the Greek epics there are positive results to be gained from hearing the call… calories. This particular caloric siren provided a wonderful sugary caloric boost but the detour did in fact result in the recognition by the hikers that their day had drawn to a close short of the goal of 25 miles, so off they went to the St. Thomas Episcopal Church hiker hostel.
After a quick visit to a laundry mat and dinner at Burger King, the 90th day since the beginning of "Five Pair's" journey on the Appalachian Trail came to an end.
When asked to describe the terrain encountered in the 90th day, the gastronomically influenced phrase?
It was a Smörgåsbord.
1350.9 miles complete/833.5 miles to go
June 24 – New York, New York
"These vagabond shoes are longing to stray"
… and stray they did and nine miles into the day, "Five Pair" left the Garden State behind and entered New York.
Five miles into New York food became the issue for the hikers, "Five Pair," "Dos" and "Magpie," a lady hiker from Maine. Into the town of Greenwood Lake they went and found their way to Murphy’s Tavern.
Although not as hot as the prior days, "Five Pair" was glistening and was looking for a cool beverage to take the edge off so she asked the proprietor for the ubiquitous beverage in all Florida beachside establishments, the frozen drink. The proprietor politely reminded "Five Pair" that she was in a tavern and pointed to the beer taps with a Guinness tap handle grounding her in the reality of her surroundings. Settling for a non-frosty alternative beverage and ordering food, the hikers began to consider their options.
After checking with Ground Control on the current weather situation and what the outlook was for the remainder of the day, the decision was made to press on to the first northbound New York shelter just over two miles away.
During that hike there was a boulder scramble and thereafter the hiking day came to an end as they walked into the Wildcat Shelter area. Upon arrival "Five Pair" was greeted by "Honey Badger," "Alpo" and several other hikers that she had not seen for some time. In addition, "Five Pair" communicated with "Austin" via text message and it may be that the near future will see them hiking together again.
1368.0 miles complete/816.4 miles to go
June 25 - Beauty, Bruises and Blood
Rain came on day 92 and "Five Pair" await for drier conditions as scrambling rocks in wet conditions was not a prospect to which there was a lot of enthusiasm.
With the rain passed, the hike began and "Five Pair" described a beautiful day with scenery to match. The beauty of the hike today resulted in "Five Pair" naming New York one of her favorite states of the journey so far. One formation of note encountered today was the "Lemon Squeeze", a rock formation that hikers had to squeeze themselves through.
In addition to the beauty, the day included a lot of climbing and the wet conditions made much more difficult. Notwithstanding the care taken by "Five Pair" during the climbing and boulder scrambling, the slippery rocks extracted a toll in the form of abrasions, blood and bruises.
The late start, wet conditions and rocks combined to make this a short day and "Five Pair" hiked into the Fingerboard Shelter after just a bit over 14 miles and join a good sized collection of hikers including "Alpo", "Honey Badger", "CatDog", "Peeper", "Gumpy", "Runner", "Rocky" and her dog, Bodie.
1382.3 miles complete/801.9 miles to go
June 26 – Now This Is the Trail
With an early rise "Five Pair" exited the shelter area before 6:15am and hiked inside the 800 miles to go point. The experience today of hiking would have met her expectation of the Appalachian Trail prior to the beginning her thru-hike. The trail included varied walking surfaces, pretty views and abundant wildlife but did not include the dreaded rocks. "Five Pair" encountered a bear, deer, rabbits, and a snake as she hiked down the pretty tree lined pathways.
As "Five Pair" worked her way around Bear Mountain, this portion of the hike included a distant view of the New York City skyline.
After that view, "Five Pair" and "Alpo" hiked through Bear Mountain Recreational Area and as they exited the park spotting a closed concession stand. "Five Pair" turned on the best thru-hiker charm she could muster and knocked on the back door. With the door opened, the worker told her that the stand closed five minutes ago but upon observing the sad looking thru-hiker, advised her they did have two cheeseburgers and one hotdog left over and that they were available to her. The courtesy was quickly accepted and "Five Pair" and "Alpo" were soon both enjoying the benefit of the interaction.
Thereafter, the two hiked past the 1,400 miles hiked mark and onward to the campsite at the Graymoor Spiritual Live Center. There they met "T", a female hiker from Kentucky, "No Trace" and "Unbreakable", husband and wife hikers from California, and met up with "Dace", "Honey Badger", "Wolverine" and "Uhaul".
1,404.1 miles complete/780.3 miles to go
June 27 – B – A – N – J – O and "Banjo" Was His Name-O
"Five Pair" hiked with "T", "Unbreakable" and "No Trace" and this day was a relatively easy hike where the hikers encountered a recreation area with a lake and better yet, a concession stand.
While the hike today was mostly in the woods the hikers did encounter a painted USA flag memorial on the rock on the top of Shenandoah Mountain commemorating 9/11.
As the day came to a close, the hikers approached their target for the day, the RPH Shelter. Upon entry into the camp they were greeted by the fact that "Dace" had ordered pizza for those at the shelter as a kind of going away gift as he had decided that his journey was coming to a close and that he would hike off the trail tomorrow. While disappointed to hear that "Dace" was concluding his hike, "Five Pair", "T", "Unbreakable", "No Trace", "Nomad", "CatDog" and the yet to be trail named, Andrew, enjoyed his gracious gift and were happy that he was content and satisfied with his journey.
During this evening, "Five Pair" suggested to Andrew a trail name and he being content with this name, was thereafter known as "Banjo". "Banjo" is a recent high school graduate that actually skipped the graduation ceremony to begin his hike and is doing a flip flop. After climbing Katahdin, he will travel to Springer Mountain and hike to his starting point, the Pennsylvania/New Jersey line.
As the day concluded, a quick look by "Five Pair" at her trail guide revealed her to be 19.9 miles from the rendezvous point of Appalachian Trail Train Station near Pawling, New York, where Ground Control is scheduled to arrive tomorrow.
1,422.9 miles complete/761.5 miles to go
June 28 – The Return of Ground Control
"Five Pair’s" day began with a hike through wooded area populated with streams where she met up again with "Nomad", "CatDog" and "Banjo".
Thereafter, the hike wandered adjacent to farmland where "Five Pair" witnessed a farmer bailing hay.
As the day wore on the terrain transitioned into wooded and then swampy area with "Five Pair" hiking across different footbridges.
The day ended as the structure that is the Appalachian Trail Train Station came into sight and Ground Control arrived and whisked "Five Pair" to McGrath’s Tavern in Pawling, New York, for a fantastic dinner. Thereafter, it was off to a shelter chosen by Ground Control that oddly enough included a bed with actual bed linens, an indoor bathroom and air conditioning.
1,442.8 miles complete/741.6 miles to go
June 29 – "You Go Girl"
The day began "Five Pair" ordering her cooked to order breakfast. As the female server arrived with two plates of food and making inquiry about the plate of pancakes to which "Five Pair" claimed, the server than advised Ground Control that the two eggs, sausage and bacon must be for him. "Five Pair" quickly advised the server that plate of food was hers as well. The startled server in surveying the other food that was in front of "Five Pair" beyond the plate of pancakes, found space to sit the plate down within reach of "Five Pair" and with a smile exclaimed "You go girl!"
After breakfast and getting her gear stowed in the car, "Five Pair" was greeted by "Snorting Ox" who was taking a zero at the hotel.
Onto the road and soon "Five Pair" was readying to return to the trail but hours later than normal. As she unloaded her gear from the car and readied to begin her day, a greeting from afar was heard. "Dace" walked up, introduced himself to Ground Control and bid his farewells to "Five Pair". "Five Pair" headed back onto the trail after wishing "Dace" all the best and Ground Control transported "Dace" to Pawling where he was due to catch a train.
After dropping "Dace" off, Ground Control made his way to a predetermined meeting point and set up a Trail Magic shop for any hikers who made their way through before "Five Pair". "Nomad" was the first to arrive and advised that the hike of "CatDog" had come to an end.
Approximately 7 miles from her starting point "Five Pair” entered Connecticut for the first time where she met up with "Unbreakable" and "No Trace". Along the along the Ten Mile River and then the Housatonic River she hiked and eventually onto to Bull's Bridge Road where Ground Control awaited near the Bull's Bridge, a covered wooden bridge built in 1842.
Present upon her arrival were "Alpo" and "T". "Alpo" was awaiting the arrival of "Cricket", his mother, and his father who were picking him up for a visit. Thereafter, "Banjo", "Unbreakable" and "No Trace" arrived. "Alpo’s" parents arrived and after introductions and pictures they took off and "Banjo" took his leave down the trail.
Dinner was next on the agenda and as the time had arrived for the opening of Bull's Bridge Inn restaurant, "Five Pair", "T", "No Trace", "Unbreakable" and Ground Control enjoyed its gastronomic offerings and thereafter, "T", "No Trace", "Unbreakable" continued on the trail and "Five Pair" headed to another shelter chosen by Ground Control.
1,454.0 miles complete/730.4 miles to go
June 30 - Hello Again, Goodbye Again and 2/3 Down
"Five Pair" got an early start to the day with the desire to get a few more miles in than the previous day.
Within 90 minutes "Five Pair" hiked back into New York only to reappear back in Connecticut shortly thereafter. As "Five Pair" approached Kent, Connecticut, Ground Control arrived for pickup off the trail and into Kent they went for lunch. After a mammoth burger, ice cream and meeting two young lady hikers "Resource" and "Whoop" and two young male hikers, "Conan" and "Spider", "Five Pair" went back onto the trail.
At the fifteen mile mark, Ground Control ended up hiking southward from a crossover point and upon meeting up with "Five Pair", hiked along with her back to the crossover. While Ground Control was quite satisfied with his hike in his topsiders, "Five Pair" was less so, so she continued for another couple miles and was snatched off the trail by Ground Control as darkness fell in Cornwall Bridge, Connecticut.
Another number mark achieved, "Five Pair" passed the 2/3 complete mark.
1472.3 miles complete/712.1 miles to go