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Fast forward....time to connect the packs. I had made a concrete shed aka bunker in advance, so I knew the width and had a concrete plywood at the right size. Time to make a test layout and determine the distance between each pack. The white cable trays are for the balance wires. Works supervision by my little pigeon friend named Jos.
Fusing....needed or not? One side or both sides? I strongly advice to foresee a fuse on each cell. I went for the glass fuses. They're easy to weld and very cheap.
Bring the packs to their final location.
The concrete plywood is on it's maintenance position.
The crimptool is very handy. Once the connector is in place I'll solder the connection too.
Total length of the bridge between each pack is 11cm/4.3 inch.
13 Connectors are ready. The ones on the right are used for the balance wires. You need to make 15 balance wires, all equally long.
A little hole is drilled in the cable tray and the other end of the cable is connected to a terminal block. When making the balance wire, make sure to wait with t
When installing the balance wires, start at the 0V and work your way up to 48V. Make sure not to contact other balance wires or battery packs. Finish the install of 1 wire and connect it to a screw terminal block. Double check the order with a multimeter.
When making the balance wires, make sure to wait with the wire terminal crimp connector till the wire went through the cable tray.
Time to give the 2 ring wrench some good use. With the ring wrench you limit the stress on the packs. and you limit the chance of shorts because the wrench can stay on the nut. Givep these wrenches a spot near your packs, not in the toolbox.
Most builders install packs very close to eachother and bend the copper busbar to make a connection with the other pack. This puts a lot of stress on the packs and the welds...hell it's already very difficult to line up the holes of the connectors. With this way of working you push the busbar towards the pack and relief all stress from the spotwelds and connectos.
To protect my packs from moving while connecting them and to have a clean install I added a spacer in the 4*5 holder. One at the front, one at the pack. Every three packs I don't install the spacer, this allows me to move the packs in case I have to remove a bad pack.
Connect all 13 connectors and once in place solder the stranded wires to the connector.
Not quite yet....we have to connect the 14S configuration to a distribution system so we can stack multiple shelfs. Let's tackle this last hurdle.
It's quite simple and rewarding to built this yourself. Let's do it step by step. All you need is a U-profile aluminium of xx cm (x2) 4 insulators, 4 screws and 2 lengths of solid copper busbar.
You need to drill 4 holes in the aluminium U-profile. The 2 middle holes are for mounting the profile to the wall, the other 2 for the mounting the insulators. Make a temporary connection with the busbar (see next picture) to see where you have to drill the 2 outer holes.
Install the insulator by screwing them to the aluminium tube. Mount it to the wall first, once the copper busbar is installed you have no easy access to the holes.Make sure the copper is shining before connecting the packs.
Time for some exercise, tilt your head 90° to the right. The insulator only accepts very short screws.