NENE is open to children, teens, and adults alike! Novice and Intermediate offer two different options for participation, depending on each individual's level of previous experience and comfort with the concepts and pace of model horse shows. At these levels, the judges will move at a slower pace than Open shows, and will provide more feedback about the classes they've judged. Emphasis is placed upon education and fun!

Novice & Intermediate showers are mostly separated for competition - the list of divisions is as follows:

• Intermediate Breed

• Intermediate Collectibility

• Intermediate Performance

• Workmanship (Intermediate Only)

• Amateur Owner/DIY (open to all and no champs)

• Fun Classes (open to all and no champs)

• Novice Breed

• Novice Collectibility

• Novice Performance

How does a Model Horse Show work?

I do go into exceptional detail later on, but as a basic overview:

Model horses are displayed on "show rings" - designated tables in the middle of the room to compete in various categories of classes. Each category of classes are evaluated on different standards, but in all cases, individual models are judged both on their own merit and how that stacks up against other members of the class. If you're used to 4-H judging for example, this is quite different! Classes are judged throughout the day - they are not all out for display at the same time. Each show entrant is assigned a personal table space around the sides of the room to use as preparation/display space for their herd.

All non-Performance (and Fun) classes are referred to as "Halter Divisions", which ironically do not really involve the models wearing a halter! It's a hold-over term from a time long in the past (before I was even involved with the hobby!) where it was common for folks to show their models wearing halters (and as a bit of history, at that time all types of models showed together)!

"Performance" - Models are meant to depict an equine activity that may happen in real life (for unrealistic/fantasy scenes, there is a Diorama fun class). Footing, tack & accessories and other props are encouraged to add to the realism of the scene. Since this is a "snapshot" presentation, the entrant is expected to provide documentation which explains what the horse is doing. More than one horse may be included in the setup if that makes sense for the activity depicted, but only one will wear a tag and be judged. There is a HUGE variety of equine activities that can be portrayed through performance, and it's an excellent outlet for creativity.

"Breed" - Models are judged individually, without setups/wearing removeable accessories to determine which horse in the class is the best example of the breed assigned to it. Some classes will have different, but similar horse breeds that show together, while others are only for one breed of horse. Models may have documentation (explanation) of the breed characteristics that a real life horse of that breed would have. This is usually done for uncommon breeds or colors. Models must be outside of their box for this division so the judge can look at the horse from all angles. Entrants may use the breed assigned by the manufacturer, but are encouraged to do research to see if there is a better assignment, using online resources or horse breed books.

"Collectibility" - Models are judged individually, without setups/wearing removeable accessories to determine which horse in the class is the most collectible. Collectibility is all about the age, rarity, condition, and desirability of each specific model - it's a great way to learn about Breyer and hobby history! In these classes, the model may be shown with the accessories it came with next to the model, Certificate of Authenticity if it came with one, or even the box it came with (next to or under the model, with specific box types noted below. Under VERY specific circumstances, we allow models shown in package in Collectibility). The entrant is tasked with learning about their model - when it was made, how it was sold (to any retailer of model horses or just one), how many were made (if known), and any other interesting notes about the piece (more details below!) 

"Workmanship" - Models are judged individually, without setups/accessories to determine which horse in the class is the best example of artisan craftsmanship. This is the only division that focuses on custom painted, individual artisan pieces rather than mass produced models designed and sold by a factory (Breyer, Stone, Copperfox, Hartland, etc.) Classes are evaluated based upon the preparation, customization (if applicable), and finish work of each model. These classes are categorized by color, but some shows split them up differently. It is not considered appropriate to name the artist(s), but it's a good idea to document unusual realistic colors and patterns. The "AO" classes, which are workmanship classes that open to everyone as long as the work done is their own. The regular Workmanship division is open to Intermediate level only and folks may enter their own work or that of others.

New for 2024, artisan medallions (pieces that are not entirely 3D) are eligible to enter the Workmanship division in a class just for them, and the AO classes for work done by owner. 

"Fun Classes" - As the name suggests, these are just for fun! The themes are meant to inspire creativity and for some, to showcase certain types of models that aren't often seen at shows. These are open to everyone who has entered Novice or Intermediate.

If you've never entered a Region 10 show before (NY & New England hobby network), you first need to register for an entrant ID at https://regionxnation.com/start This ID will be reused for any show you enter that participates in the Tag Manger system, so you only need to sign up once! You will also be able to re-use the same tags between shows. The Tag Manager system allows show coordinators to "enroll" entrants in the shows and enter our results online. 

The "Start" page linked above also has several resources to help orient you to using the website and tag system.  I especially recommend reading the "About the Tag Manager" page linked from "Start", as this provides excellent detail about how to use the website and how to make tags. Please note that this page is slightly out of date, as YahooGroups no longer exists, but we do still have Facebook, as well as a Forum which is linked on the site homepage where you can reach out to community members for advice. I'm also happy to answer questions via email, Facebook, etc.

I recommend using the standard 1" white string tags - larger is ok, but please don't go too small so our judges can read them. White is preferable for color, but if you only have colored tags (i.e. pink, green, etc.) that is ok if they are correctly sized. Tags may be handwritten (if neat/legible), or the Tag Manager includes an option to print out your tags (sized to standard 1"). If you can't get sheets of rectangular stickers, you may also tape the printed information to each tag. 

You'll need to make sure all of the models you intend to show are added to the Tag Manager ahead of time. If you're having printer issues or cannot access a printer some time during your show prep period, I do also accept pdf versions by email (use the print to pdf function to save) or hand written on show day. I do not need your list of models until the morning of the show. The purpose of the list is to help me double check the results written by my judges - sometimes a number is transposed somewhere and the lists are a first resource to correcting, rather than spending a bunch of time emailing entrants to ask. I will however contact you after the show, if there's an issue with the results that I can't figure out - sometimes, it's necessary for entrants to change model information on their side of the database for results to display correctly. 

Models that will only enter the Fun Class section are not required to be added to the Tag Manager.

Determining which category to show in - are you Novice or Intermediate?

While the final decision is up to each entrant, I am happy to provide guidance and I generally offer the following generalizations (which not everyone falls into, of course!):

NOVICE-

• Children ages 6-10

• Older Children & Teens with little to no show experience/knowledge

• Adults who are new to live shows & the hobby in general, or whom have had a very long hiatus (like over 20 years) during which they had very little to no hobby involvement/exposure

• Those doing the Performance Only option - if you are still very new to the Performance division and have very limited skill and tack & accessories options

• Anyone who would feel more comfortable as a first time shower starting out in Novice even if they would otherwise fall into the Intermediate category

INTERMEDIATE-

• Older Children, Teens, and Adults with some live show experience/knowledge who are looking to continue skill building (some folks only spend a short time in this division, others spend years here - I do not push anyone to "graduate" to Open until they are comfortable and have the knowledge/skills. Very much assessed on an individual basis!)

• Anyone who has been in the hobby for a while, collecting or participating in other aspects, who is aware of how live shows work to some degree, but who has never attended one themselves

• Those returning from shorter overall hobby hiatus (less than 20 years), or those who stopped attending shows for a long time but maintained some exposure to the hobby (so they may be aware of the changes over the years)

• Anyone who has a substantial enough collection of artisan pieces created by someone other than themselves who would like to bring these models along. The official Workmanship division is only open to Intermediates and the Amateur Owner (AO) section is for self-completed work only regardless of entrant level

• Younger children (6-10) who have enough prior experience with shows to no longer be considered a Beginner Novice (though considering the unique circumstances of this year, I don't expect too many exceptions as there have been limited show opportunities since 2020)

• For Performance Only - Those who have some basics down, who are continuing to skill build and develop their tack & prop collection (Performance can take a lot of time to develop the skills for! I have no issue with folks who want to "graduate" to Open for Halter, but remain in Novice/Intermediate for Performance if they are not confident with moving up in both at the same time)

Model shows are a lot of fun! For some people, they may generate some anxiety, particularly those who may be anxious in new situations. The best way to relieve some of that anxiety/pressure is to prepare well ahead of the show. Taking these steps will help you to be well prepared and organized! It may seem like a lot of information to those who are unfamiliar with the process - it's totally ok to do the prep a little bit at a time if that helps it to be less overwhelming. 

STEP 1 - Choose which models you'd like to bring!

This is when you'll take a look at your collection to see which ones are eligible for which class(es) I have more detailed information available further down the page! In general, I suggest that 15-25 is a good solid amount for someone attending their first show, or a slightly lower range of 10-20 for a younger child. For anyone else, definitely compare you collection to the classlist and decide how many classes you're interested in, what you believe you can manage well. Please keep in mind that many folks will likely have half of a 6' banquet table (some Intermediates may have full tables if space allows). I find that it helps to measure out the space on a table or somewhere in your home to get a better visualization. As someone who routinely brings enough models to Open level shows that I need to rotate through bins during the day, even when I have a full table, that is not something you want to focus your time on when you're still new to entering shows. If you need to swap some models out during lunch, that's generally not too chaotic. 

When assessing your models to decide who makes your show string (herd), it's important to consider which type of class you want them to enter and how they will be evaluated. Models may NOT enter more than one Breed, Collectibility, or Workmanship class, however, Original Finish models may enter 1 Breed and 1 Collectibility class so long as they are a realistic color. Models shown in Performance may enter more than one class - I do suggest that newcomers stick to one type of tack per model, since tack changes can be challenging on the fly if you're not used to it. So Model X could compete in all of the Western classes, for example, but it's probably not a great idea to use her for the English classes as well. 

Models shown in the OF Classes may NOT be altered significantly in any way, including but not limited to removing paint that was originally present, adding "shading" to a model using any medium, adding white makings to the face or legs, or using any sort of temporary or permanent enhancement to the finish (such as armor-all, Pledge, etc.) that results in a significant difference from how the model was sold. Restoration of pieces is allowed to bring models back to their condition as they originally left the factory, but obvious work will be counted against the horse. If this is something you aren't already skilled at, it's best to contact a professional restoration artist within the hobby if there's a model you really love and want to bring back to its former glory. Any model with obvious changes, regardless of how small, is considered a Custom.

For Breed, you'll want to look for those models who look the most like their assigned breed (whether it's what they came with from the factory or what you give them). Keep in mind things like body type and allowable colors. For example, a big draft horse would not be a good choice to show as a Shetland Pony, and if you have a model that really looks like an Arabian, but its color is palomino, it will need to be an Arabian cross with a breed that does come in palomino. Please use the reference list provided to help determine which classes different breeds go in. Generic terms like "Pony" or "Warmblood" are NOT breeds, you will need to choose a specific breed within that type.

For Collectibility, you'll look for which models are eligible for each class based on things like brand of manufacturer, year of production, source, etc. Judges may also consider the overall look of the horse, so those that have a nicely done color & details may be a good choice. Condition is quite important at the Open level for Collectibility, but if there are small marks or rubs judges will be more forgiving in Novice & Intermediate. Please see additional notes about the Collectibility divisions below!

For Workmanship, you may not have a large custom/resin herd, but consider those first who have smooth paint, nicely done customization if they aren't just painted/etched (looks realistic/nicely detailed for fantasy), and well done prep work like seam/logo removal (if customized from OF). Breed type is not considered heavily for this division, but as mentioned above, any unusual realistic colors should have a photo reference provided to document. Custom/Artisan models are judged on both Breed and Workmanship at the Open level, but for the learning levels, it is easier to teach about Breed with OF.

For Performance, it's important to consider how much the model you're using matches the type of activity you're trying to portray with them. A model with a nice calm, even trot and a well balanced silhouette will do better in a Dressage setup than a model that is rearing and whose mane and tail are going everywhere. It's also important to consider which models fit the tack and accessories you already own, or can buy/make prior to the show. Not all models of the same scale (size group) will fit a piece of tack the same way. The biggest consideration that judges will have regarding your entries is safety - would the tack & accessories be safe if the horse was real? Scale is another important consideration - some tack will be too large or too small to look realistic on the horse (but we're definitely more forgiving while you're learning! If you only have improperly sized tack, please don't feel like you can't participate!) The third consideration is if the type of tack and accessories are correct for the specific activity depicted. This gets a bit more into details, so unless you're already really knowledgeable about the activity in question, or you're really eager to learn, the judges won't be harsh on anyone for missing small details. As a specific suggestion, most experienced Performance showers recommend starting without using rider dolls. While they can make a setup look more realistic, it can be difficult to adjust them properly on a horse - especially the Breyers or other dolls that are not custom built for Performance purposes.  *Please note that Custom/Artisan models ARE allowed in Performance for my show, other hosts may not do this for Novice/Intermediate levels.

Overall, your models should be clean! If they are covered in dirt or dust, they will not place as well. We understand that repairing damage may be outside the skill set or priorities of less experienced show participants, but cleaning your models is something anyone can do (even smaller kids with help from an adult, older sibling, etc.) I do not recommend using water to clean artisan pieces (customs/resins) as not all paints or materials may do well with water exposure. There is also one color of Breyer horse, Woodgrain (specifically the ones painted in the 1950's-1970's) which should not ever get a bath if you have any of those. Water exposure is known to cause a bubbling effect in the finish which is very difficult, if not impossible to fix even by restoration experts. Unless your horses are very dirty/dusty, a wipe down with a clean cloth rag, microfiber cloth, and/or a makeup-style brush should be sufficient. 

If you have any questions about which models should enter which classes, I'm happy to help, and so are my judges!

As an additional note, most china/porcelain model horses are not encouraged to attend the show! These are VERY fragile and I am not comfortable having many of them in an environment where many attendees are newcomers. Breyer porcelains & resins are specifically allowed in their one Collectibility class. Cold-painted china models are allowed in Workmanship, and any model of such material is technically allowed in any Fun Class that's not specifically restricted by type of material, but I do not encourage it. If you own a lot of "breakables", you may enjoy specialty shows at the Open level that offer classes for these models!

STEP 2 - How to Document!

While not every entry requires documentation, it's important to go through the basics of how to prepare it so you can do it for models that need it! Here's a run through of each type:

Breed:

For Breed, you want to provide information about what the assigned breed of horse looks like! Breed books and websites usually include a list of visual characteristics like shapes, angles, and size of various horse body parts (head, legs, shoulders, etc.) There may be characteristics that are fairly specific to certain breeds of horses - which features would you see on a real horse out in a field and say "hey, that's an Arabian!" for example. It's also important to list the colors possible in the breed - some breeds only come in a few colors, while others have a large variety! Your model will need to be one of the colors stated in the breed characteristics. You may also want to include a photo of a real horse that's the assigned breed, if possible from the side. Most people will not go any larger than a half or full 8"x11" sheet of paper. You do NOT need to document every breed - judges will have a good idea of common breeds like Arabians, Thoroughbreds, Shires, Shetland Ponies, QH, etc. *If you are participating in the BreyerFest Youth show, that requires documentation for every horse - if you do have it and want to bring it, you won't be penalized.* Less common breeds and colors should be documented - if you aren't sure if a breed is "common" or not, I'll get an opinion from my judges if they want to see it. Some folks prefer to cite their sources for breed documentation, this is not a requirement and will not affect your placings in either direction. 

Collectibility:

Models do need documentation for Collectibility. Our judges are knowledgeable, but they may not recall the information for every single model, so it helps to document. It is also educational for your fellow entrants (breed is too, but that section's already long!) If your model has a COA (certificate of authenticity), you may use that as the explanation card, otherwise, I suggest using index cards to provide the following information:

Name Assigned by Manufacturer, or Descriptive Name (NOT your name for the horse)

• Type of Run (usually Regular or Special for Breyer, may be others for Stone etc.)

• Year(s) Produced 

• How many made (if known)

• Source if Special Run (what retailer or event was it made for?)

• Some folks also like to include things like Mold Name and Item Number

• If there is anything significantly different about this example from a typical copy of the run (i.e. socks on wrong leg, lack of spots where they should be, chalky variation IF not all on the run are chalky) 

If the model has a signature, stamp, or number on the underside, you can place a mirror under the horse so the judge can see it. Any model that came with other accessories, such as tack, hang tags, brushes etc. may have those pieces placed next to the model on the table so long as the amount of items do not take up excessive space. Older models that have the box may have the box placed behind them (leave enough of a gap that a judge can look at the other side) or the model may stand/lay on top of the box to conserve space. Models like the Western Horse that have removeable tack may be entered with the saddle on, or with the saddle placed beside the horse. Please see the more detailed information further down the page for  specifics regarding models still in their box/package.

Workmanship:

If your model is an unusual but realistic color, it is helpful to provide a photo (in color, if possible) of a similar real horse. The artist who painted the model (if known) may even have the reference photo they used if it's a recent creation, if you're in touch with them to ask. Breed references should be in color if the horse's color is unusual for the breed, as well. Color print is better overall, but if you're not showcasing an unusual/rare color, you could print in black and white if you don't have a color option available. 

Performance:

The intent of performance documentation is to describe what the horse in your setup is doing. You want to include the name of the activity, as well as:

• Level of competition, if applicable (there are different rules for many equine sports depending on the level)

• Pattern or Course, if applicable, with the point at which the "snapshot" you're portraying is marked (many equine sports require competitors to navigate a course or pattern, including show jumping, dressage, reining and more!)

• Explanation of the activity - particularly for setups like 4-H/Pony Club games, or informal "daily life" activities like a draft horse plowing a field. Some of these types of activities would benefit from a photo of a real horse performing it if it's not something the judge may be aware of

• History of the activity/sport, for unusual sports/activities in brief, to provide more context for the judge and to educate others in attendance. 

Documentation in General:

It is still most common for documentation to be printed on paper (if not pre-existing like a COA of course), but some people put a breed book down next to their horse open to the page of the assigned breed, or have an electronic reference pulled up on a tablet. These latter two options are fine in a pinch, but printed paper is the most preferable. Books can take up a lot of space (unless you have a really small book), and tablets can be challenging if the screen turns off before the class is judged or the judge needs to scroll to read on an unfamiliar device.  Some people choose to laminate or put printed paper into plastic sleeves to preserve the quality. I do NOT recommend laminating COA's, as they may discolor over time - a plastic sleeve will protect just fine.

STEP 3 - Supplies & Packing!

Once you have your models chosen, and documentation ready, the next step is to gather the supplies you'll need and pack! 

TAGGING:

As described earlier on the page, your models each need an ID tag! Once you have the tags prepared according to the directions on the Tag Manager info page, they're ready to attach to your horses! You may do this ahead of time, or the morning of the show, but I recommend putting them on before you pack since it will be one less thing to worry about on show day. If you have hand-written your tags, please ensure the ink is dry before putting the tag on a horse! When possible, tags should be attached to a model's ankle by looping the tag through the opposite end of the string loop and pulling gently to secure. Here are some of the guidelines I use for placement:

• If a model's head is turned in one direction, the direction it's turned towards is the "show side", and I will use one of the legs on that side

• A leg where the hoof touches the table is preferable to one with a raised leg, so the tag doesn't dangle

• If both legs on the show side are touching the table, I default to the hind leg (if the hind leg is lifted and the foreleg is not, I put the tag on the foreleg)

• For models that are facing directly forward, it is up to you which looks better as the "show side", but still follow the guideline of putting tags on a leg touching the table, with a preference to the hind leg if there is a choice

• If you have any models which a tag won't stay on very well, it's ok to put the tag next to the horse for its class.

SUPPLIES:

A "show day kit" can be essential to having a smooth show experience! Here are some of the items I recommend having on hand:

• If you are a Performance shower, you will likely have a lot more stuff than other folks! The most essential items include clear sticky wax (to keep bridles and other tack in place), tweezers (for adjusting tack prior to a class, if needed), plus any supplies you may need to fix or replace items (there are so many tiny things, it's easy to lose small pieces). If you are interested in additional performance prep tricks, I can refer you to my judge, who knows a lot more than I do!

• Clean microfiber cloth or soft shammy to dust, and to remove fingerprint marks off glossy models (if you own any)

• Makeup-style brush or set of brushes to remove dust (it will get on your horses during the day, even if you clean them before packing! It happens to all of us and is just part of the experience). Make sure these are new/CLEAN (as in not actually used for makeup, crafting/etc.) Clean paintbrushes can also work, but they'll need to be pretty large in order to clean your horses in a very short time (most people will spend 5-10 seconds or so per horse dusting, on average)

• Extra tags and index cards

• If you prefer taking notes on paper, have a notebook on hand to write down ideas for the future or to make note of feedback from judges. If you prefer digital, a note on your phone also works. 

• A copy of your class list that has the names of each model entered next to the class(es) they're going to be in. Be sure to leave space to mark down what they've won! (Again, this can be digital if you prefer)

• A copy of your Tag Manager list to give to me

• Non-messy snacks - you don't want to get your horses dirty (no Cheetos!)

• Water bottle

• Pens/Pencils - for paper recording, but also for if you need to make a new tag or index card. And for filling out raffle tickets!

• Extra packing materials (I can attest that models do NOT go back in the way you pack them, it's very easy to somehow come up short at the end of the day - plus you might win raffles or make purchases!)

• Table covering such as a tablecloth, blanket, or bolt of fabric to protect against potential damage from falling over, and to show off your creativity/personality. I do also have a table decoration contest every year for those who are interested (more to come on this year's theme)!

• Optional - model display racks/stands to help models from falling over. Some folks like to use these for peace of mind if a table is bumped. The domino effect is NOT a fun sound, especially if it ends in a pony on the floor! Of course, if you have room, you can also lay down any models that make you nervous to have standing up while they wait for their class(es). There are a variety of hobby made or adjusted-commercial options out there, including wood racks with dowels, metal pot lid stands with added fabric covers, plastic stands, and more. (If you're specifically interested in Stablemate scale, I have a 3D-printed plastic option over on the Stable Snaps! page)

LET'S PACK!

There are several methods for transporting models safely! First, let's talk about the containers. Types of containers to carry models include:

• Plastic totes/boxes (This is the most common method - they come in a variety of sizes! Some of the really large ones even have wheels)

• Cardboard boxes (shipping style, file sorting boxes with a separate lid, etc.)

• Suitcases 

• Soft sided tote bags

• Backpacks

• Baskets (lots of variety here too! I have even seen folks use laundry baskets before)

You can really use any sort of container that will keep your models safe, that you can reasonably carry and will fit in your method of transportation to the show! 

Wrapping!

An important part of travel to a show is keeping your models safe from each other and from the travel container. There are also several common methods to protect in transit! For any material used, you'll want to ensure that each model is totally covered (no tails/ears/etc. sticking out), and that the material doesn't fit too tightly (which could lead to stress pressure/bends/breaks). 

• Fabric pouches are the most commonly used packing material! These can be commercially made (Breyer offers these in 3 sizes), hobbyist made (many folks offer pouches for sale online), or self made. Designs can vary from those with several layers of different fabric stitched together to a single layer folded into a pouch shape and sewn on two sides. If you are making your own and have minimal sewing experience or access to equipment, I do recommend using a single layer for simplicity. In order to have enough cushion with one layer, fleece is usually a good option (it will also have good sales in the spring and early summer from retailers!)  IF you are bringing custom painted/artisan pieces, it is good to wrap them in a silk or muslin style fabric before putting into any pouch that is fuzzy like fleece, as those models may be susceptible to sticking to fuzz. There are tutorials for making pouches available online - Breyer has previously offered virtual seminars on the topic during BreyerFest, and some hobbyists have tutorials available on sites like YouTube.

• Bubble Wrap is also a go-to option. I would say this is manageable if you have a small herd (less than 30) to bring and/or if you have bubble wrap bags rather than just using sheets. Always pack models with bubbles facing away from the surface of the horse to prevent risk of damage to the finish. 

• If you have neither of those options available to you, models can also be carefully wrapped in soft clothing like t-shirts, socks, etc. Old clothing, bedsheets, pillow cases etc. are great options to upcycle into travel pouches if you have the time and means! 

• Additional options include blankets, towels, (unused) puppy pads - really any soft material that will keep your models safe! 

How to Pack!

Now that you have your container(s) and packing materials, let's put them together! There are a couple of methods that people like to use:

• Pack in the opposite order of your class list, so the models with the earliest classes will be on top - this is recommended for Intermediate level folks who may have a larger show string

• Pack based upon what fits, with generally larger heavier models towards the bottom and smaller lighter ones towards the top. This is fine if you have a smaller amount of horses

Overall, models may be packed vertically, horizantally, or however they best fit comfortably in the container. They should fit together well enough that they won't shift around too much in transport, but not tightly enough to risk breaks/damage from pressure. You may need to use more than one container. It's also good to leave a little bit of extra room (i.e. a couple of inches) at the top! The models will likely NOT go back in the same way they were first packed at the end of the day, and that's ok. You may also win raffles or make purchases and you'll need space to bring those home! I absolutely recommend bringing extra of whatever packing materials you use, both for new additions and in case the sizes don't match up and you are left with a horse that doesn't fit any of your remaining materials (this has happened to many of us in the live show community!) 

If you are using flexible containers like tote bags, backpacks, etc, please be cautious of moving them around while traveling and don't squeeze them between other containers or put heavy objects on top of them. 

Timing!

I would suggest packing everything you'll bring within a week of the show - if you don't have a lot of items to bring, the night before is fine. Depending on your vehicle's location and the outdoor temperature overnight, you may or may not want to pack the car the night before. If you have a garage, absolutely go for it. If the vehicle is parked outside, consider the temperature (though in the summer it shouldn't get too cold overnight) and your level of concern for safety (if you have concerns about break-ins in your area, I would wait until morning to load the car). 

The night before the show, make sure you have the address & directions ready to go, so you'll know how much time to give yourself in the morning. I recommend planning to arrive by 8:30 at the latest, to give yourself enough time unpack and get acclimated. We may still be setting up the tables prior to 8 AM, just for awareness if you are an early bird. 

When you arrive, there will be folders out on each table with name tags so you can find your spot, if no staff are available to ask (we may be helping other folks!) I will likely provide a layout here on the site and I also communicate show updates by email. Provided there are no last minute changes to the attendance, I'll have enough time to print out copies of this to add to your show packet - in the folder on your table. 

The pairs of tables in the middle of the rooms are the show rings, and the rest of the tables around the edge of the room are either assigned to entrants, used for the raffle & silent auction, or used for displaying awards/other show staff purposes.

Please first bring in your bins from your vehicle and start unpacking, it is most important that your herd is ready to go for the earliest classes. Once you have settled in and unpacked, please bring your Tag Manager list to the show staff table. There will be a tray or a pile going for these. I don't expect 100% of these to be turned in by the time the first classes start, but if you're able to manage that it's great! I'll follow up individually with anyone who hasn't turned theirs in yet later in the day. 

It is a good idea to have all of your documentation, cleaning tools, and your method for recording what your models win in an easy to reach spot on your table. This way, it's simple to grab what you need for each class as they come up and record what you've won when you return to your table. A common technique for keeping track of your winnings, especially if you aren't able to write them down right away is to take a photo of your horse with the ribbon it won before removing anything from the ring. 

If you are showing in Performance - please begin to set up your first classes once you are unpacked and prepared. Those usually take longer to set up, so we want to give you enough time. Please prioritize the first class of the division if you'll be setting up both the first and second. For the first Halter classes (the rest of the show), please start loading around 8:50 or follow the announcements by show staff. 

Each pair of show rings will be color coded by tablecloths - I will provide a spreadsheet that lists which classes are running in each pair of rings, in order of call. You'll have a copy in the folder on your table, as well as a digital copy provided ahead of time. The Novice rings will be located in the small room, so it's easier to focus on the Novice judges and to keep track of where models need to go. The only classes with entry allowed for Novices - the Fun classes and Amateur Owner division - will be held in the larger room, but they'll be in the rings closest to the smaller room so Novices will not need to go too far. To clarify, the two spaces do directly adjoin and there is nothing closing them off from each other during our event.

Once the show gets underway, you'll want to pay attention to any announcements, especially those coming from judges working on divisions you're entering. 

Here's what to expect and to listen for with each class:

"First call for class ____"! This is your cue to bring up your model(s) for the class stated, if you have any. It's likely that anyone else who is not currently doing anything else will all come up to the table at the same time. If you cannot bring your model(s) over immediately, that is ok, just make note to do that next after what you're currently doing. 

"Second call for class ____"! This is a reminder to participants to bring up or continue preparing their entries on the table for the class. If everything is going smoothly, and folks aren't feeling too confused or overwhelmed, the second call may end up being the final call - but this will be stated as such.

"Final call for class ____"! This means the judge is asking if anyone else needs to bring up a model or finish making adjustments. If this applies to you, give us a shout, wave your arms frantically, or something else to signal to the judge that you need more time. Silence/no response is interpreted as "I'm all set". 

"Class is closed"! This means that the judge will start working, and no one is allowed to bring up more or make changes to any entries on the table. At this time, it's polite to step back a bit further from the ring if you are looking at what is there to give the judge enough time to work. Please also try to not interrupt the judges while they are working, if you have a question, they can answer when they are done. 

"_____ Class is pinned, please pick up your entries"! The judge is finished working and has laid down all of the ribbons for the class. At this time, the judge may choose to share any feedback about specific entries to individual entrants, or general notes about the class to the folks coming up to gather their models. Note that for Performance classes, this will likely happen more often than not. The judge may also call up the next class to come up shortly after the pinned announcement. 

Putting Your Model in a Class!

It is important to follow protocol for setting up your entries to ensure everyone has space for their models in a class! Performance works a bit differently, because of how much space the entries can take up - in that case, please be mindful of how much room you will take up, and coordinate with those near you to make sure all of you can fit. Fun classes will have different size/placement requirements, but again, it's most important to be sure you're not going to run into anyone else with your entry(ies). 

HALTER (All other divisions)

Models in these divisions are expected to be displayed parallel to the edge of the table, usually far enough back from the edge to leave room for any documentation the model may have and to prevent risk of the model falling off the table if it is bumped by anyone on accident. Most models have a "show side" - if the head is turned in either direction, the way the head is facing is the correct side to face the outside of the table. For models whose head faces straight forward, it is up to you to choose the side that is the most pleasing to look at. Your tag should be on the side of the horse that's closest to the outside of the table, so the judge doesn't need to reach over your horse to read it. For additional notes about where to wear tags, please see the section above on tag creation.

Documentation for breed, collectibility, or color should be placed in front of the horse and should not cover the tag. You are expected to flip the tag so the side with its number is facing up. The judge only needs to know the horse name & your name for placing purposes or if they have questions about your entry. If your model has any accessories, they should be placed in front as well, not covering the documentation and also not blocking any part of your horse from view. If you have a mirror to show paint details or a stamp/signature on the model's belly, that goes underneath the horse. If a model has their original box, it can be stood up behind them (again, leaving enough room for the judge to see the opposite side of the horse), or the box can be laid down and the horse can stand on it if it's not unstable to do so. 

While it is customary to leave a small gap between entries, it is also polite to your fellow participants to not leave odd size gaps that are difficult for others to put their entries in. In particular, some of the Intermediate Breed classes can get fairly large, and we want to make sure everyone has room to enter. Show staff will assist with spacing on larger classes, or we may "spill" into the other ring for the division once the previous class has ended, instead of bringing up the class following the oversize one. In the case of very large classes, the judge may elect to split the class into two sections and award a set of ribbons for each. The judge/show staff will direct folks on what to do in that situation. 

Once you have finished arranging your model and any accompanying items on the table, it's good to take a moment to wipe down or brush off your model if you notice any dust, using a microfiber cloth or makeup/paint brush that you've brought along for this purpose. It's pretty common for dust to settle onto horses once they've been unpacked and are sitting on entrants' tables. This is something that happens to basically everyone, so it's just part of the standard process to finalize your entry last minute. 

My Horse Won a Ribbon! Yay!

When a class is done, and you've found that you earned a ribbon, congratulations! That's awesome! If you have any questions for the judge about the class, if there is anything you can do to improve for next time (if you haven't placed in the class, you may be wondering that even more). Judges are happy to give feedback to politely worded questions (it is NOT ok to be rude), and it's best to ask right away after a class finishes so they've just thought about your horse recently. They may not remember a few hours later! 

One of the best strategies for remembering what you won, as mentioned earlier, is to take a photo of your model with the ribbon it won. I try to make sure I write at least part of the model's name on the back of the ribbon when I return to my table and also make a note on my list of models - I write down who's entered in which class - who won what. I don't often have time anymore to note which ones did not win anything, but it can help if you get confused later. Anything that notes no placement, such as "-", "N/A", or "X" can keep you organized. 

IF YOU WON 1ST, 2ND, OR 3RD:

Your model (in every division except AO & the Fun Classes) will have a TRXC Novice qualifying card! It's important to fill these out, at least the horse's name right away so you can keep track of who earned them. These will need to be totally filled out ASAP, even if it's that night when you get home or the next day. Performance cards are ORANGE, Breed cards are RED, and Collectibility & Workmanship ("Non-Breed Halter") are PURPLE.

1st and 2nd place models are eligible for the next Championship in their division (for most divisions, this is the Overall, except Intermediate Collectibility and Intermediate Breed, which have Sectional championships first). Even if these models do not have any other regular classes to enter, please do not pack them up until the Championship has happened. They will return to the ring when the championship is called up, with their 1st or 2nd place ribbon. Performance models do not need to have their full setup brought back, just the horse, whether or not it is still tacked up. 

SECTIONAL champs (Intermediate Breed & Collectibility) - if your model wins champion or reserve at the Sectional level, do NOT pack your horse! There are overall championships at the end of these divisions as well.

If Your Model is in Two Overlapping Classes (INTERMEDIATE):

The classlist only gives the ORDER the classes will be called in. We do not use timers, and I cannot tell you ahead of time if X class will be happening at the same time as Y class. In the event that your model has two classes happening at the same time, please let us know. We'll want to make sure the model doesn't miss either class, if possible. All of the Novice divisions run in order in the same set of rings, so there should not be any overlap between Breed & Collectibility. 

"Pony Pound"

There is a lot going on throughout a show day! It's not super uncommon for even Open level folks to sometimes forget an entry on a show table after a class is complete. In this case, your model should be wearing a tag, so show staff can flag you down or bring your model to you if you forget. At some shows, they have a "Pony Pound" up on one of the show staff tables for models that were left behind after a class. This is more common at large shows like BreyerFest where the schedule is busy, and staff don't have time to chase down people. If anyone is missing a horse, they're encouraged to check the Pony Pound. 

What Else to Do While Waiting for Classes?

If you've reached a point where you have no more prep to do, and all you're doing is waiting for a class or classes to finish, there's plenty to do and see at a model horse show! 

• Say hello to your neighbors! If you haven't said hello already, it's great time to do so if they are also not busy. If you aren't sure what to talk about, good ways to start a conversation are always pointing out a model on their table that you like and giving it a compliment, or asking a question about a model they have that you aren't familiar with. Or maybe, they have a model that you have with you or at home! If you're really shy or have anxiety, no worries! You aren't forced to talk to anyone if it takes you a while to warm up to strangers :) 

• Check out the raffle! Don't forget to buy you tickets! $1 each or 6/$5 up at the check in table

• Consider bidding on the Low Stakes Silent Auction items (details above!)

• The show staff or other entrants may have models or hobby-related items for sale or trade

• Take a general trip around the rooms to see the other classes going on, and what everyone has brought!

• Fill out your show feedback survey included in your welcome folder, especially if it's later in the day - All surveys returned receive a free entry for a door prize raffle!

• Participate in the "Share the Love" event by giving out the multi-color ribbons to models out for classes that you love for any reason (reminder, each model may earn only ONE of these ribbons per class and they must be given to models belonging to people you are not related to!)

• Take photos of models that you think are awesome! In general, you have permission to take pictures of anything out for a class. Please ask to take photos of entrants' show tables. Show staff may be taking general photos of the room throughout the day in addition to photos of classes, championships, etc. 

• Don't forget your human needs! Remember to drink water, have snacks, take bathroom breaks, and sit down once in a while. It's also ok to step outside for a few minutes if you need a break due to feeling overwhelmed in any way. 

I have some specific guidelines for models entering Collectibility classes, please follow along to help determine where your models should show! I am also happy to answer any questions you may have after reading through this section.

It is customary to show models at these events *outside* of their packaging, in most cases. This goes against a lot of commonly held beliefs in other collectible hobbies. We DO have some models that are considered rarer inside the package, but in order to show still sealed up, they must meet the following criteria:

• The model MUST be visible within the package. Otherwise, you cannot prove there is a model inside the box, or which one it is for sure. The judge must be able to see the horse in order to confirm what it is and to properly evaluate it. Older styles of boxes with no clear sections are welcome to be displayed next to/behind/under the model they came with - two models on the second set of tables in the photo to the right are seen displayed with their boxes for the class.

• Acceptable styles of "New in Package/New in Box" include the rare Touchability and Showcase boxes from the 1970's, smaller models on OLD blister cards (black or white Stablemates blister cards, original Little Bits and Classics Foals) - generally pre-1990's. The common "Yellow Breyer" window boxes (1980's-early 2000's) & newer styles typically do not add value to a model and the bright yellow ones in particular are prone to  the clear plastic becoming fragile, yellowed, and breaking apart. If a model has identifying stickers on the front or info cards on the back, those are good to save before tossing the box. If you have ANY questions about if your box is acceptable to be kept "NIP/NIB", please ask!

To learn more about your models, the best websites are www.identifyyourbreyer.com and www.breyerhorseref.com - both free to use! There is a Stone site (www.stonehorseref.com) which is a fantastic resource, but it is not entirely free to use, and may not be a good option for someone who does not have many Peter Stone models. If you need info about Peter Stones, there are several Facebook groups and pages with experienced collectors who are happy to help!  I recommend this one: https://www.facebook.com/groups/249497304471 

For older Breyers, there are also several printed books that can be helpful and informative, including the Breyer Animal Collector's Guide series (5 editions) by Felicia Browell, Kelly Korber Weimer, and Kelly Keracher (different last name at time of publishing) - I find these once in a while at used bookstores!  Breyer Molds & Models (Horses, Riders, & Animals) by Nancy Young is also an excellent older resource with 5 editions. This series is hardcover and can be harder to find, especially for a good price. 

Breyer models with a run amount of 100 or fewer may NOT enter Novice Collectibility.  I do not typically expect Novice level folks to have models of this rarity level, and I encourage anyone who does to consider entering Intermediate instead. 

Breyer models with a run amount of 350 or fewer may ONLY enter Collectibility, regardless of level. Many models of this caliber often have additional details that may put them at an unfair advantage in Breed classes. This is not a rule that exists at the Open level, only for those who are learning. I have unintentionally allowed complacency of this rule in past years, but it WILL be enforced going forward. 

Unrealistic & Fantasy models are welcome in Collectibility & Workmanship, but are not allowed in Breed classes.  

Breyer Porcelains & Resins are to show in the class of the same name at the end of the Intermediate Collectibility division.

DEFINITIONS:

"Regular Run aka RR" - any model available to be sold by any retailer who carries the Breyer line, for at least 6 months, but most models are available for a few years. Certain models, such as Misty & Stormy have been available for decades! Sometimes, regular runs are limited in number - Commemorative Editions from the 90's/2000's are editions of 10,000, for example. These still count as Regular Runs.

"Special Run aka SR" - any model that is limited by source, for one retailer/event/club/etc. or a small group. Special Runs are not available to buy from every retailer who carries Breyers. Special Runs include models released directly from Breyer for BreyerFest, exclusively through their website, through their clubs, etc. Special Runs often also have limited time production windows and/or have a set amount available to buy.

"Limited Run aka LR" - Breyer is using this term in recent years to refer to Special Runs that are more exclusive in quantity (BreyerFest Live calls Limited Runs anything that has a run size of 2-160). I do not refer to these in this way, because there's usually only a few that enter the show each year.

All definitions are based upon the way in which a model was originally marketed - you may have purchased Regular Runs second hand, or bought Special Runs on consignment at retailers who didn't originally carry them, but what counts is how they were initially sold.

Most Breyer Holiday and Halloween models are considered Regular Runs for this show.  As a general rule, any holiday/Halloween/seasonal motif model that was available in some capacity to any dealer, and there is no stated run count are considered Regular Run. As a tip, you can tell by the horse's assigned item number from Breyer if it was released as a Special Run. If a model has a 6-digit item number starting with 7, it's a special run. Occasionally, items may not have a 6-digit number starting with 7, but I'd still consider them Special Run (SR). Example:

• Night Mare, a 2014 Halloween release, is item #1724, which would usually indicate a Regular Run, but she is limited not only by run amount (3,500 made), she was also only available to a select group of retailers - Brick & Mortar retailers. This excluded any retailers that did not have a physical location for people to go and shop in person, and thus, she counts as a Special Run.  

• Since Breyer's change to the structure of item numbers within the past couple of years, this trick applies more to older runs. Smaller scale models (Classic/Freedom, Little Bits/Original Paddock Pals, Stablemates, Mini Whinnies) do have different item number protocols than the 3-4 digits as RR vs 6 digits as SR. 

HOW TO DECIDE WHICH CLASS FITS MY HORSE - NOVICE LEVEL

Novice level Collectibility has fewer classes, so you don't have as many considerations to make!

• If your model is not a Breyer, it will enter the All Other Brands class

• If your model is a Breyer, first refer to the definitions above and check the resources noted to determine if it is a Regular Run or Special Run

  • Regular Runs are grouped into 3 classes by years - use the year your model was first available to find out which class it goes in *For models like MISTY & STORMY who have been available for a very long time, the designs have gone through several distinct changes. Send me a picture of your horse(s) and I can help you decide where they best fit

  • Special Runs have 2 classes - BreyerFest Special Runs and Other Special Runs. If you model was originally available at any year of BreyerFest, it goes in that class. If it is a Special Run from any other source, it goes in the Other SR class

HOW TO DECIDE WHICH CLASS FITS MY HORSE - INTERMEDIATE LEVEL

Intermediate level Collectibility offers additional options!

• If your model is a Peter Stone, it will show in one of those 2 classes based on how many were made - Runs of 99 or Fewer, and Runs of 100+. Design a Horse "DAH" models should show in the 99 or Fewer class. Most Stone runs have a known run count, but for any of the older "large" runs from the 90's/00's if they aren't listed, assume 100+ unless you can find evidence otherwise

• If your model is not a Peter Stone or a Breyer, it will show in one of the Other Make classes. Class #13 is intended for brands like Copperfox, Hartland, and other hard plastic horse figures. Class #14 is for "toy" style brands made of a softer, bendable plastic like CollectA, Safari, Papo, Schliech and any haired plastic horses like Grand Champions, Juleps, Equoums. CollectA show here - they are distributed by Breyer, but Breyer and their parent company Reeves do not own CollectA

• Breyers are again split into Regular and Special Runs, but with additional classes for each. 

  • Regular Runs are grouped by year of release. Just like with Novice, if you have a model like Misty/Stormy which has been available for over a decade, please send me photos so I can help them go into the correct class

  • Special Runs are grouped by Source, except ALL runs of 500 or fewer, regardless of source, are to go into that class. Any other SR with 501+ made will go into one of 4 classes - BreyerFest Ticket Models, All Other BreyerFest Models, Other SR Breyer Direct, and Other Retailer/Event SR

    • BreyerFest Ticket Models are any that came included with a ticket to the event. They may be referred to as Celebration Models or All-Access/VIP Models for the Traditional scale, and the Stablemates are called Single Day or General Admission

    • Other BreyerFest Models are those made specifically for a certain year of the event, that were available to buy at/during the event. Some of the previous years' examples include Nemea, Peanutine, Buggy, and Pollock. 

    • Other Breyer Direct includes Breyer Clubs, Website Exclusives, JAH, Breyer Tours/Signing Parties, Breyer Fun Days, BreyerWest, Breyer Show Specials (1991-2002), and the Treasure Hunt Redemption Models (series 2006-2011, these are the ones people got by collecting the "regular" ones in the set from retailers and mailing in the UPC codes from the boxes those horses came in)

    • Other Retailer/Event SR include any Special Runs that were exclusive to one or a specific group of retailers or only available at events that Breyer attended but did not host themselves. Examples: Wal-Mart., Target, Kmart, JCPenny, Sears, Riegseckers, Montgomery Ward, Black Horse Ranch, PetSmart/State Line Tack, Tractor Supply, Midstates Exclusives (participating retailers included Rural King), QVC, Horses International, WEG, USET Festival of Champions, Eighmey's Wagon Shop, Blockbuster, and Flagship & Brick and Mortar exclusives (these are SR because only certain retailers who carry the regular Breyer line can order and sell them)

If you have ANY questions about Collectibility classes, or Collectibility in general, please reach out - I'm happy to help! It is one of my top areas of expertise within the hobby.

While I do not limit the overall number of models anyone can bring, there are per class limits, and you should keep in mind the amount of table space you will have to work with during the day. 

CLASS LIMITS:

Performance - 1 setup per class (we understand that these classes are usually small, but it's best to focus your energy on preparing one entry per class while you're still learning! Also, with smaller classes, the judge will have more opportunity to provide individualized feedback, which is crucial for Performance)

Breed, Collectibility, and Workmanship - 3 entries per class (Except the Medallions class, 4 per class)

Amateur Owner - 4 entries per class

Fun Classes - see information on each class below as they do not all have the same limits

________________________________________________________________________________________

FUN CLASSES!

Fun classes will be judged by available show staff! Criteria for judging include creativity in execution, craftsmanship (where applicable), presentation of the entry, and overall impression. Please note that while you do not need to put hours/days worth of work into entries for this division, anyone who does put in hard work will not be overlooked. We want everyone to feel proud of the creative work they do!

The 2025 lineup of Fun Classes includes:

1. Diorama (realistic or unrealistic) - 1 setup per entrant

2. Other Material Models (anything that's not plastic, resin, or china! Wood, leather, and metal are commonly seen used for horse figures) - 3 models per entrant

3. Conga/Theme (Example shown to the left "larger models and their mini-me"! You must have at least 4 models in the group and they need to have something in common) - 2 displays per entrant

4. Theme Song (If you have any models named after song titles or lyrics, please share the name of the song and why it inspired you! Snippets or full print out of the lyrics optional. MUST be family friendly, thank you) - 3 models per entrant

5. Family Photo (Create a family of models posing for a portrait, can be funny or serious. Most people use 3-5 models for this class) - 2 setups per entrant

6. Other Animals Domestic (show off your Breyer or other brand domestic animals!) - 3 models per entrant

7. Other Animals Wild (show off your Breyer or other brand wild animals) - 3 models per entrant

8. Best/Coolest “Secondhand Find” – it’s a lot of fun to find model horses in places that are not dedicated to selling them, such as tag sales, flea markets, antique shops, estate auctions, and more! Any source that is not directly from a Breyer retailer, hobby swap, BreyerFest, purchase/trade with another hobbyist, etc. counts as “in the wild”! Show off your favorite finds! Models do not need to be “LSQ” for this class. - 3 models per entrant

9. Model Emergency (Show off your most beat up model or failed custom!) - 3 models per entrant

10. My Favorite Horse (Please provide an explanation card/sheet for what makes this model so special to you, at least a few sentences! Photos are welcome if relevant) - 1 model per entrant

There will be 4 sets of rings going throughout the day to ensure things don't drag on for 2 long! The colored tablecloth system to help identify rings that I've used the last 2 shows (2018 & 2019) will be in use again this year. 

A "ring" is two banquet tables placed end to end and covered with a tablecloth. Each ring will also have paper signs (as seen on the right) to help orient entrants. 

RINGS 1 & 2 (GOLD) - Intermediate Performance, then Intermediate Collectibility

RINGS 3 & 4 (TEAL) - Intermediate Breed

RINGS 5 & 6 (PURPLE) - Workmanship, Amateur Owner, then the Fun Classes

RINGS 7 & 8 (GREEN) - ALL Novice level classes, starting with Performance, then Collectibility, and finally Breed

Rings 1-6 will be in the larger section of the hall, with 5 & 6 being closest to the smaller section. Rings 7 & 8 will be in the smaller section, to make things easier to follow for the Novices. They will only need to go into the larger room for entering classes if they plan to show in Amateur Owner and/or Fun Classes (which will be in the rings closest to where the rest of the Novice activity is). Of course, they may still wander the larger hall for reasons other than entering classes! :) 

RINGS 1 & 2

INTERMEDIATE PERFORMANCE

1.                   Other Performance (not English or Western)

2.                   Parade/Costume

3.                   Other Western

4.                   Western Trail

5.                   Western Pleasure

6.                   Other English

7.                   English Trail

8.                   English Pleasure

PERFORMANCE CHAMPIONSHIP + TOP 3

INTERMEDIATE COLLECTIBILITY

1.                   Breyer Regular Run 1950-1979

2.                   Breyer Regular Run 1980-1999

3.                   Breyer Regular Run 2000-2007

4.                   Breyer Regular Run 2008-2015

5.                   Breyer Regular Run 2016-2025

BREYER RR SECTIONAL CH/RS

6.                   Breyer Special Run of 500 or Fewer

7.                   Breyer Special Run- BreyerFest Models (501+ made) Celebration/Ticket Models (3-day and 1-day)

8.                   Breyer Special Run- BreyerFest Models (501+ made) Other SR/LE/Store Special

9.                   Breyer Special Run- Other Breyer Event or Direct Sale (501+ made)

10.               Breyer Special Run- Retailer Exclusive or Real Horse Event (501+ made)

BREYER SR SECTIONAL CH/RS

11.               Peter Stone Models Run of 100+

12.               Peter Stone Models Run of 99 or Fewer

13.               Other Brands- Copperfox, Hartland, Knockoff-Plastic Style Brands 

14.               Other Brands- Papo, Schleich, Julip, Equorum, etc. (Rubber & Haired Brands)

15.               Breyer Porcelain & Resins

OTHER SECTIONAL CH/RS

COLLECTIBILITY CHAMPIONSHIP

RINGS 3 & 4

INTERMEDIATE BREED

1.                   Thoroughbred/Standardbred

2.                   European Warmblood

3.                   Carriage Breeds

4.                   Other Sport Pure/Part

SPORT BREEDS CHAMPIONSHIP

5.                   British Pony

6.                   Other European Pony

7.                   American/Other Pony

PONY BREEDS CHAMPIONSHIP

8.                   British Draft

9.                   Other European Draft

10.               American/Other Draft

DRAFT BREEDS CHAMPIONSHIP

11.               Appaloosa

12.               Paint

13.               Quarter Horse

14.               Mustang/Other Stock

STOCK BREEDS CHAMPIONSHIP

15.               American Saddlebred

16.               Other American Gaited

17.               Spanish Non-Gaited Breeds

18.               Spanish Gaited Breeds

SPANISH/GAITED CHAMPIONSHIP

19.               Arabian

20.               Part-Arabian

21.               Morgan/Other Light

LIGHT BREEDS CHAMPIONSHIP

22.               Mules/Donkeys/Exotics

23.               Other Breeds Not Listed/Mix/Grade

OTHER BREEDS CHAMPIONSHIP

24.               Sport Foals

25.               Draft/Pony/Other Foals

26.               Stock Foals

27.               Spanish/Gaited Foals

28.               Light Breed Foals

FOAL CHAMPIONSHIP

OVERALL BREED CHAMPIONSHIP

RINGS 5 & 6

CUSTOM/ARTIST RESIN

1. Chestnut

2. Bay/Brown

3. Black

4. Dilute Solid Colors (Palomino, Buckskin, Dun, Cream, Cremello, Perlino, Silver Dilutes, Champagne Dilutes, etc.)

5. All Grays

6. Roan & Rabicano *Rabicano is more of pattern in looks but genetically it is closer to roan, so it shows in this class.

7. Overo Pinto

8. Tobiano Pinto

9. Leopard Appaloosa

10. Blanket Appaloosa

11. Other Pinto/Appaloosa & Unusual Patterns

12. Unrealistic color + Fantasy

13. Medallions

TOP 10 + CHAMPION/RESERVE CM/AR

AMATEUR OWNER

1. Simple Repaint

2. Simple CM- ear, tail, mane tweaks

3. Moderate to Heavy CM- legs, neck, head tweaks (may also have Simple tweaks) or more

4. Etched Models

5. NaMoPaiMo models (horses completed as part of the annual February painting initiative held by Jennifer Buxton on Facebook, you may enter any horse that was your official entry or an "I did this too") *Your horse(s) may enter this class AND whichever class, 1-4 in this section fits them the best.

FUN CLASSES (See list above)

RINGS 7 & 8

PERFORMANCE- NOVICE

1. Other Performance

2. Western Performance

3. English Performance

NOVICE PERFORMANCE CHAMPIONSHIP

COLLCTIBILITY- NOVICE

1. Vintage RR Breyer (1950-1979)

2. Contemporary RR Breyer (1980-1999)

3. Modern RR Breyer (2000-2020)

4. BreyerFest SR

5. Other SR

6. All Other Brands

NOVICE COLLCTIBILITY CHAMPIONSHIP

BREED- NOVICE

1. Light/Gaited/Spanish/Sport Foals

2. Stock/Draft/Pony/Other Foals

3. Pattern Color Stock Breeds (Pinto or Appaloosa colored)

4. Solid Color Stock Breeds

5. Pony Breeds

6. Draft Breeds

7. Longears/Exotics

8. Arab/Part Arab

9. Morgan/Other Light

10. American Gaited

11. Spanish Breeds

12. TB/STB

13. WB/Other Sport

NOVICE BREED- CHAMPIONSHIP & TOP 10

BREED GUIDELINES:

Here is a general list of which breeds are considered to be part of which categories. I've tried to put this more in order and aligned with the classes. If you can't find the breed you want to assign on this list, let me know and I can help figure out where to put it. Certain classes are for 1-2 specific common breeds and will not be on this list.

European Warmbloods

Austrian Warmblood, Bavarian Warmblood, Belgian Warmblood, Brandenberger, Budyonny, Czech Warmblood, Danish Warmblood, Dutch Warmblood, East Bulgarian, Finnish Universal, Frederiksborg, Hanoverian, Holstein, Hungarian Warmblood, Irish Draft/Draught, Irish warmblood,  Kisber Felver, Malapolski, Mecklenburg, Oldenburg, Rhinelander/Zweibrucker, Russian Don,  Selle Francais, Swedish Warmblood, Swiss Warmblood, Trakehner, Ukrainian Riding Horse, Wielkopolski, Wurttemberg 

Carriage & Driving Breeds

Belorussian Harness Horse, Cleveland Bay, Dolahest (aka Dole Gudbrandsal & Dole), Dutch Harness Horse (aka Tuigpaard), East Friesian, Friesian, Gelderlander, Georgian Grande, Gypsy Vanner (aka Gypsy Cob, Irish tinker, Coloured Cob, Tinker Horse), Hackney Horse, Kladruber, Knabstrup, Latvian Harness Horse, Moriesian, Norman/Normandy Cob

Other Sport

Akhal Teke, Nez Perce Horse, Anglo-Arabian (incl. all registries), Anglo-Kabarda, Appaloosa Sport Horse,  Australian Waler, Canadian Pacer, French Trotter, Friewalker, Gidran Arabian, Gidran Sport Horse, Metis Trotter, Orlov Trotter, Pleven, Shagya Arabian, Spanish Norman, Warlander

British Isles Draft

Clydesdale, Shire, Suffolk Punch

European Draft Breeds

Ardennes, Auxios, Belgian (aka Brabant), Black Forest Horse, Boulonnais, Breton, Comtois, Dutch Heavy Draft, Estonian Draft, Finnish Draft, Frances-Montagnes (aka Frieberger), Furioso (aka Furioso-North Star), German Warmblood, Italian Heavy Draft, Jutland, Lithuanian Heavy Draft, Mulassier (aka Poitevin), Murakozi, Noriker (aka Oberlander, Pinzgauer), North Swedish Draft, Percheron, Rhineland Draft, Russian Heavy Draft, Schleswig Heavy Draft, Sokolsky, Soviet Heavy Draft, Swedish Ardennes, Toric, Trait du Nord, Vladmir Heavy Draft

American Draft

American Cream Draft, North American Spotted Draft, American Belgian, American type Percheron, Sugarbrush Draft

British Isles (UK) Ponies

Connemara Pony, Dales Pony, Dartmoor Pony, Eriskay Pony, Exmoor Pony, Fell Pony, Hackney Pony, Highland Pony, Kerry Bog Pony, Lundy Pony, New Forest Pony, Shetland Pony, Welsh Pony/Cob (All Section A, B, C & D)

European Pony

Albanian, Ariegeois, Astercon (aka Asturian & Galician), Avelignese Pony, Balearic, Bardigiano Pony, Bashkir Pony, Basque Pony (aka Pottock), Bosnian Pony, Camargue, Carpathian Pony (aka Hucul), Dulman Pony, Faeros, French Saddle Pony, Garrano, German Riding Pony, Gotland Pony (aka Skorgruss), Haflinger, Icelandic, Konik Pony, Landais Pony, Lyngshest (aka Nordlandshest), Manchurian, Merens Pony, Northlands Pony, Norwegian Fjord, Ob (aka Priob), Peneia Pony, Pindos (aka Thessalian), Sardinian Pony, Sykros Pony, Viatka Pony, Yakut, Zemaituka Pony

American, Australian, African, and Asian Ponies (Other Pony Classes)

American Shetland Pony (all divisions), American Walking Pony, Assateague/Chincoteague Pony, Banker Pony (aka Shackleford), Falabella, Galiceno Pony, Miniature Horse, Newfoundland Pony, Petiso Argentino, Pony of the Americas, Quarter Pony, Sable Island Pony, Welara Pony, Anadolu (aka Ati), Australian Pony, Kaimanawa, Basotho (aka Basuto), Fleuvre (aka Fouta & M’Bayar), Kirdi, Nooitgedacht, Poney Mousseye, Batak Pony, Bhutia (aka Spiti) Pony, Burmese Pony (aka Shan), Caspian Pony, Cheju, Chinese Guoxia Pony, Flores (aka Timor), Gayoe, Guangxi, Guizhou, Hokkaido, Java Pony (aka Kumingan), Kazakh Pony, Lijiang, Manipuri Pony, Misaki, Noma, Sandalwood Pony, Sumba (aka Sumbawa), Syrian Pony, Taishuh, Tibetan Pony, Tokara, Yangi

Other Stock Breeds

American Cream, Australian Stock Horse, Bashkir Curly, Cayuse, Colorado Rangerbred, Nokota

American Gaited Breeds

American Saddlebred, Kentucky Saddle Horse, McCurdy Plantation Horse, Missouri Fox Trotter, North American Single-Footer, Rocky Mountain Horse, Spotted Saddle Horse, Tennessee Walking Horse, Tennuvian, Tiger Horse, Virginia Highlander, Walkaloosa

Spanish/Iberian Non-Gaited

Andalusian/PRE (Carthusian/Cartujano/Extremeno/Zapatero), Azteca, Carolina Marsh Tacky, Castilian, Chilean Corralero,  Criollo, Florida Cracker Horse, Hispano-Arab, Kiger Mustang, Lac La Croix, Indian Pony, Lippizzaner, Lusitano/PSL/Alter Real, Menoquina, Moyle, Pampas Horse, Pantanerio Horse, Sorraia, Spanish Barb, Spanish Mustang, Spanish Sulpher Horse

Spanish/Iberian Gaited

Mangalarga Marchador, Paso Fino, Peruvian Paso, Spanish Jennet

Light Breeds

Barb, Camarillo White Horse, Canadian Horse, Iomud, Marwari, Kathiawari, Morgan, Turkoman, Renai, and Arab crosses such as : Ara-loosa/Ara-App, Morab, Quarab, National Show Horse

Longears/Excotics

Asian/Asiatic Wild Horse, Balis, Burro, Donkey, German Heck Horse, Kiangas, Mongolian Mules (All Types), Onager, Przewalski, Quagga, Tarpan

Other Pure Breed Horse

Abtenauer, Abyssinian, Aegidienberger, Altai, Andravida, Australian Brumby, Balikun, Ban-ei, Boer (aka Boerperd), Bulichi, Calabrese, Campolina, Cretan Horse, Danubian, Deliboz, Djerma, Dongola, Estonian Native, Heihe, Hequ, Hirzai, Indian Half-Bred, Jinzhou, Kabarda (aka Kabardin), Karabair, Karabakh, Karacabey, Kinsky, Kiso, Kushum, Kustanair, Latvian, Lokai, Losino, Maremmana, Messara, Miyako, Murghese, Nonius, Novokirghiz, Qatgani, Rottaler, Salernitano (aka Salerno), San Fratello, Sanhi, Sardinian, Talweed, Tchernomor (aka Chernomor), Tersk, Tori, Unmol, Uzunyayla, Ventasso, Vlaamperd, Xilingol, Yili, Zhemaichu (aka Zhumdka)