Tapestry Doorstop Instructions
The doorstop (left) was primarily made to use up a selection of odd yarns that had been in my ‘collection’ for a number of years & whose ‘type’ was now forgotten. Generally these yarns were a mix of tapestry, knitting & other similar craft ones - both natural & man-made. A leftover hank of background yarn was insufficient as a single colour & had to be closely matched (colourwise) for a similar alternative. Each motif is different in the yarn colours used, although this could be altered in any way. The design as provided has smaller motifs at the upper part of the doorstop with larger ones nearer the base edge – again this could be adjusted if required.
NOTE: This doorstop has been made purely for decorative purposes rather than being functional - choice of yarn, fabrics & decorative effects reflect this. Only guidelines for making this item have been provided (used for my students as reference) & any seam allowances have not been included in the measurements below.
STITCHES
The tapestry is worked entirely in half cross-stitch * (or half tent stitch). This uses less yarn & provides a thinner fabric canvas when complete. If tent stitch (or continental stitch) is used (which provides a thicker & firmer fabric), more yarn will be needed than recommended.
Images above are samples worked in various yarns & size.
* Clear & full details of all stitches used can be found if you click the link
INGREDIENTS (because its been a little like making a cake!)
Assorted lengths of tapestry/crewel thickness yarns (these can be made up using different strands)
Appx. 2 skeins of 200yd hanks crewel yarn
Appx 0.5 yard of 12-hole (to the inch) tapestry mono canvas
0.5 yard length of cord for handle (this is knotted when complete)
Appx 0.5 yard of firm cotton twill (or similar closely woven fabric) for lining
7” zip
PREPARATION & FINISHING of CANVAS when completed
On a large piece of paper, mark out an 11-inch (radius) semi-circle shaped template then cut it out. Frame up the piece of canvas, overlay with the paper template then mark out this paper shape using tacking stitches. Mark the centre of the straight edge with a loose thread of tacking cotton (this position will be used later when this edge is seamed together). With an odd length of background yarn (using tramming or backstitch), work along the entire outer curved edge to provide a guideline finishing edge. Stitch the canvas following previous page 'CHART' – smaller motifs are positioned at the centre of the semi-circle, larger motifs nearer the lower curved edge. When all motifs (see left) have been completed, work the background stitching continuing over the tramming along the outer curved edge (this will ensure the edge is firm when stitching to the fabric base). When finished, remove from tapestry frame, tidy any loose ends & cut away stitching leaving 2” surplus canvas around all edges (this will be neatened later) then finally, lightly press.
FINISHING
Using the piece of cord, position it at the central tacked point along the straight edge – this will become the carry handle. With right sides together, fold the straight edge in half (at the tacking point) & sew firmly together including the handle in the seam. Trim & securely neaten this edge, then turn to right side. Cut a lining semi-circle slightly smaller than the stitched panel (10.5 inch radius), fold in half wrong sides facing & stitch together the straight edge. Place this fabric cone inside the tapestry one, matching seams & raw edges, then tack along this edge.
Cut a fabric base - 2 semicircles with 4-inch radius then join these 2 pieces together with a zip. Leaving the zip open (to enable turning), tack the base to the tapestry & fabric cone upper, lightly gathering/easing cone edge to fit the base. Stitch firmly, neaten then turn to right sides. Place large plastic bag in cone, then fill this with rice, dried pulses or sawdust. Secure bag well, close zip then knot handle.