Lot & Grounds
(1) Driveway & walkways: Cracked and uplifted. Mitigation is advised.
(2) Surface drain (south side of the house). A conventional screen or grate should be installed to reduce the potential for blockage.
(3) Fence and gates: Part of the fence is missing, and the gates are sagging.
(4) Ivy growing close to/on the house should be removed.
(5) Trees: Branches overhanging the roof should be pruned.
Exterior
** (1) Rain gutters [CA #2]: have been damaged and improperly repaired/reconfigured in places. Some end caps appear to be leaking. Some sections of gutter are a little loose. Gutters are rusting through in one or more places. The debris/leaf guards should be removed and gutter re-inspected.
(2) Roof corners have been removed, allowing roof water to drop onto the ground and splash the structure. Ideally flashing or other method would be installed to prevent water splashing onto the walls.
(3) Confirmation of drain function and outlet are not a part of this inspection. It is possible failed underground drains are contributing to water intrusion in the crawlspace. The roofwater control system in general should be evaluated and repaired as necessary by a specialist.
** (4) Brick [CA #3]: Large crack on west side.
** (5) Fascia/soffits [CA #4]: Small gaps in the soffit blocking and around screens should be sealed.
** (6) Roof vents [CA #5]: The lower flanges on one or more vents are secured with exposed fasteners. These are potential minor leakage points. I recommend any exposed fasteners are sealed with roofing mastic. Fasteners securing some vents are loose and should be resecured.
** (7) Chimney [CA #6]: There is moderate deterioration of the mortar bonding the bricks together close to the top of the chimney. The moss growth should be removed, chimney inspected and repaired/re-pointed as necessary by a chimney specialist. The mortar crown is cracked and loose. I recommend repair/replacement by a licensed and experienced contractor or brick mason. The application of a masonry sealer to the crown and brickwork following repair will reduce the rate of future deterioration. A chimney cap is not installed. These are recommended.
(8) Moss on roof: treatment with moss killer.
(9) Crawl space scuttle hole cover is decayed.
** (10) Vapor barrier [CA #1]: The vapor barrier was not accessible for inspection but has likely been damaged by the water intrusion. Expect to replace. A 6-8 mil black plastic sheet should be installed to fully cover the crawlspace floor. Edges should overlap by approximately two feet.
(11) Underfloor insulation: Likely to be damaged by water intrusion.
** (12) Crawl space vent holes [CA #1]: There are gap/holes in some vent screens. Some vents are partially obstructed by foliage or debris. Some vent openings are at or below grade level. I recommend soil is removed from the area around the vents where necessary to provide a minimum of two inches clearance below the vent openings. Alternatively vent wells may be installed to hold soil away.
** (13) The crawlspace [CA #1] should be evaluated and repaired as necessary by specialist in crawlspace water intrusion mitigation. Mitigation is likely to comprise the installation of a perforated pipe buried around the perimeter of the foundation wall, connecting to a crawlspace drain or sump pump. Installation of a sump pump without some form of drainage will not be effective. Ideally a few inches of gravel would also be installed throughout to raise the vapor barrier above any puddles.
E. D. Hughes proposal: Construct one 48 in. deep x 24" diameter PVC ribbed wet well near southwest exterior corner of house. Tunnel under footing and install 3" diameter PVC crawlspace drain, connect to wet well. Install Hydromatic W25 sump pump with control float, electrical permit and wiring by licensed journeyman electrician. Haul away and dispose all spoils, import and backfill with pea rock gravel. Connect discharge to existing rain drain.
-*- Does not mention: The vapor barrier described above (#10)
(14) Insulation: Some areas are compacted or damaged due to rodent activity. Ideally insulation would be supplemented to restore original, consistent coverage.
Heating System
(1) Furnace: No service record is posted on the furnace. I recommend cleaning and servicing by a licensed heating engineer.
** (2) Ducts and insulation [CA #7]: Likely water damaged.
** Electrical System [CA #8]
(1) Main panel: Ten 120 volt breakers and four 240 volt breakers. There is no main breaker present to provide overcurrent protection of the supply cable or easy shutoff of all circuits. Defects noted include: (A) Screws missing; (B) cables not secured with clamps; (C) vague labeling; (D) Four of the 120 volt circuits are double tapped.
(2) Distribution defects: (A) The cable to the garbage disposal in the undersink cabinet is not protected by conduit and there is no grommet or strain relief device installed. (B)
A cable terminates outside a junction box; (C) Overhead supply to the shop is low and susceptible to accidental contact or damage. (D) The cable to the hot tub is not protected by conduit and susceptible to accidental damage; a potential hazard.
(3) Outlets: (A) loose outlet was discovered in the north wall of the NE bedroom. (B) Some outlets are worn and will not securely hold a two prong plug. (C) Hot and neutral connections are reversed at outlets on the west side of the kitchen.
(4) Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs): No ground fault interrupters were identified in this house.
(5) Smoke detector: Only one. It is generally recommended smoke detectors are installed in every bedroom.
Plumbing System [CA #9]
(1) Distribution: There is reduced pressure at some fixtures, possibly due to rusted a distribution piping or the water filter.
(2) There was no water supply at the exterior sink in the patio area.
(3) Drain under the kitchen sink: A flexible connector, positioned horizontally. Needs to be non-flexible and positioned vertically.
(4) Water heater: This is a relatively unusual unit. Internet research suggests these units had some problems including fluctuating water temperature and noisy operation.
Interior
(1) The door to the master bedroom binds against the frame. A small wall crack at the door opening suggests the doors binds due to settlement.
(2) The pocket door to the kitchen fails to slide easily and requires repair.
(3) The oven is not secured allowing the stove to tip forward. The oven should be secured.
(4) There are no stops at maximum hot and maximum cold settings on the water temperature control in the shower in master bath.
(5) There is a slight water leak into the cabinet under the sink.
Garage
(1) The step from the house is temporary/irregular and creates a potential fall hazard. The step would ideally be replaced to create permanent fixed steps of equal height.
(2) Garage doors: The lower edge of the door has been shimmed to eliminate a gap, mainly due to the slab heave noted above. The gasket on the lower edge is improvised.
(3) Door opener: The pressure resistance reversing system requires excessive resistance to activate. Recommend the installation of an infra-red sensor reversing unit also for additional safety. [Where is the remote control?]
(4) The release device is unconventional and appears unlikely to be able to be easily deployed in an emergency or power outage.
(5) Door from garage to house: Should be fire rated.
(6) Recommend installing a fire detector in the garage