Rome - Detailed Notes About Visiting the Eternal City

Rome Notes

Trip No. 1:  February – March 2005  Trip No. 2:  March – April  2006

Trip No. 3:  March 2009   Trip No. 4:  December 2011

Trip No. 5 February 2023

 Regularly updated as new information becomes available.  Last Revision:  July 31, 2025

Tiber River & Aventine Hill 

Time of the year

·      In many ways, March can be ideal but even mid-winter months can be pleasant – IMPORTANT!  Europe, including Italy, goes on daylight savings time on the last Saturday of March, goes off it the last Saturday of October.

·      2nd half of February / early March, tourist crowds are modest but it can still be chilly.  This is my favorite time to visit Rome.

·      By mid-March, weather is spring-like and on sunny days it can be comfortably warm – no need for very heavy winter gear;  there is a noticeable increase in tourists by late March which is getting into high season.  All the same, day time weather is spring-like and restaurants and cafés have outdoor tables that are heavily use.

·      Throughout March, many spring flowers are appearing, fruit trees in bloom, etc.  This actually beings in late February.

·      Only caution – do not visit within one week of Easter or during Easter

·      Even December can be mild and pleasant, with outdoor cafes and dining still functioning

·      Hotels treat low/high season room rates in varying ways:  low rates usually run from December – February, mid-season rates apply to March, July/August and November and high season generally runs April – June and September – October,.

·      Although March still escapes the worst of the crowds, consider a visit in the second half of March going in to the very beginning of April for the following reasons:

• • Some villas and gardens do not open for the season until April;

  • A number of hard to visit places are only open one day a month, and typically it is either the first day of the month or the first Saturday of the month.

Miscellaneous Pointers

·       The Rome tourist office has a telephone number, 06-060608, and a Web site, www.turismoroma.it as a central resource for tourist information and requests.  This may be the number to try to make advance reservations to places that are not normally open to the public except by prior appointment.  There are quite a number of very interesting sites that require prior reservation.

·       It is not necessary to bring a water bottle to Rome or carry one around, as public drinking fountains with water running continuously are virtually everywhere.  Hint:  For the standard metal fountains with a downward turning spigot, there is a small hole at the top of the spigot in the middle – if you stop up the downspout at the mouth, you create a drinking fountain from the hole, which makes drinking out of it very easy.

Recommended Books

Guide Books used

·       Blue Guide Rome.  For anyone with a serious interest in exploring the art, architecture and history of Rome, this is THE indispensible guide.  It provides in-depth opportunities to explore all the important ancient sites, churches, and museums as well as off-the-beaten track but noteworthy places one would never discover without its help.  Furthermore, it has an amazing amount of information about treasures unknown by most visitors at even the most heavily trafficked spots.  There are glossaries of artists, and art terms, and historical listings of kings, emperors and popes, as well as an excellent index.  While very skimpy on practical information (hotels, restaurants), what it does have is highly reliable.

·       Rome in Detail:  A Guide for the Expert Traveler (Rizzoli in association with the International Herald Tribune).  Great detail and goes into specific, off-the-beaten track in detail.  A good back-up and supplement to the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide.  Has some, but not a lot, practical information.

·       City Secrets Rome.  As the cover says, “The world’s foremost artists, writers, architects, archaeologists and historians reveal their favorite discoveries in the ultimate insider’s guide.”  This slim volume brings to light so many extraordinary recommendations, including restaurants, wine bars, and gelaterias, it is a must-have companion.  It is absolutely superb.

       Smiles of Rome, The:  A Literary Companion for Readers and Travelers – ed. by Susan Cahill.  Excerpts from writers of all eras, fiction and non-fiction, each with a setting in a specific place in Rome.  A delightful way to enjoy the places visited – particularly nice is to relax somewhere and read a chapter / excerpt from this book by a literary figure of the past or present.

·       Guide to the Vatican Museums and City (Edizioni Musei Vaticani).  Available from bookstores and sales shops in the Vatican Museum and at St. Peter’s Basilica.  No interpretation, but helps with the Basilica and especially the vast Vatican Museums.

·       Rome: From the Ground Up.  By James McGregor, Harvard University Press.  A selective guide to the history, art, and architecture of Rome, with well-informed, insightful writing on the most important places.

Books for background and planning

·       Rome:  Art and Architecture – Marco Bussagli (Könemann – Tandem Verlag GmbH).  An absolutely fabulous, indispensible book for discovering all the architectural and artistic treasures in Rome.  Beautiful, high quality photos and very readable text.  Superb for planning a trip that goes beyond the well-known sights of Rome.

·       Rome from the Ground Up – James H. S. McGregor (Harvard University Press).  Detailed chapters, sequenced by time period, on the great buildings of Rome.  May be taken as a “background” guidebook, or read in advance and left home.

·       Rome:  History and Treasures of an Ancient Civilization – Maria Teresa Guaitoli.  As the title implies, a large format art book focused on ancient Rome, with plans, historical background, and an abundance of photographs.

·       Traveler in Rome, A – H. V. Morton.  A classic travelogue written ~50 years ago.  Well-written and a real “tale spinner” about history, art, and places in Rome.  Excellent for background.

·       Cucina Romana – Sara Mannelli.  Chapters organized by neighborhoods in Rome, featuring markets, food specialties, and restaurants.  Good background and for suggestions on memorable restaurants.

·       Red, White & Greens:  The Italian Way with Vegetables – Faith Willinger.  Good background on one of the glories of cooking in Rome (and Italy in general), namely vegetables in season.

Recommended Web Sites (specific to Rome)

·       Official Rome Tourist Office 

·       CoopCulture   Official site for advance bookings to many official sites that include special access tickets (e.g., Domus Aurea, access to certain normally closed structures on the Palatine Hill)

·       Tourist Information on Rome [British]  Some good recommendations and details can be found about less well-known but worthwhile sites to visit.

.·      List of Catholic Churches ih Rome  A very comprehensive listing of churches with good descriptions, but as a Wiki site, not necessarily complete on all the important features of each church

·       Day Trips Outside Rome  Very useful information about excursions outside of Rome.

·       Regional Park of the Appian Way  A detailed guide to the Parco Regionale di Appia Antica and the numerous sights to be seen within the park.

Recommended Apps

 ·  ProBus Roma - Official app for bus routes, planning trips, bus times, etc.

·   Metro Roma - Official app for the Rome Metro system

·   Musei in Comune - Good app for museums and cultural events

Transportation

Fiumicino Airport

Options for getting into central Rome are several (excluding by taxi):

 ·   Least expensive are the non-stop bus services (four companies, including TerraVision and Rome Airport Bus) between the airport and Termini Station.  It is approximately 6€ with a better price if a roundtrip booking is made initially.  There is a dedicated area outside the lower level of Terminal 3 and ticket windows for the various companies nearby.

·       Express train to Termini Station ("the Leonardo Express") – 18€ (in 2023), runs every half hour (to Rome at 07 and 37 past the hour, to the airport at 22 and 52 past the hour).  First train to the airport is at 5:22 a.m., last train is at 10:52 a.m.

·       Suburban Trenitalia FR1 line makes stops at all stations en route – 8€, leaves every 15 minutes, makes stops at stations of both Metropolitana Linea A and Linea B (separate fare for the Metro).  For line B, take the suburban train to the Ostiense station which connects to Metropolitana Linea B at the Piramide station, which has an inside connection to the FR1 at Statione Ostiense.  For line A, take the suburban train to the Tuscolana station, which connects to Metropolitana Linea A at the Ponte Lungo station (unlike Linea B, the suburban train station and Ponte Lungo are separated by approximately two blocks).

Public transportation (ATAC is the municipal transportation company)

Single fares –  1.50€ (sold at Metro stations, newstands, tobacco shops and on some buses or at kiosks at bus stops.  One must validate the ticket when getting on a bus if it has not been previously validated (e.g., transferring from the Metro).

Weekly pass, unlimited metro and bus travel – 24€

NOTES: 

1.     ATAC (Metro Rome) system includes ATAC buses, Metropolitana and some suburban train lines.

2.     Linea C, the newest Rome metro line, is completed and running except for the station near the Roman Forum,, which in 2023 was still under construction.

3.     Metro lines are frequently shut down temporarily for selected stations or for renovation work (e.g., Linea A started being shutdown Sunday - Thursday from 9:00 p.m. on as of July 4, 2022 for approximately 18 months). Always check the status of the system via electronic and public address system announcements and relevant apps and Web sites.

a.     A single fare ticket is good for 100 minutes of travel  from initial validation

b.     The weekly pass begins with the first use in the Metropolitana or validation on a bus, and is good until midnight of the 3rd or 7th day (depending on the pass)

4.     When wishing to get off the bus at a given stop, always ring the bell, whether the Fermata Prenotata red light is flashing or not, to make sure the driver hears the bell and stops where you wish.

5.     There is no senior discount on ATAC.

Lodging

Pensione Panda (Hotel Panda)

Via della Croce, 35 (Piazza di Spagna).  Best budget hotel for price, cleanliness and location.  All rooms have private bathroom.  Low rate period is December.  - February, mid-rate months are March, July-August, November, and high rate months are April-May and September-October.  Close to the Spagna station of the Metropolitana Linea A.  A fabulously central location on a lively street filled with cafés, restaurants, and food shops.

Useful notes:

·       The hotel has an excellent breakfast arrangement with two nearby cafés, D'Angelo and Grano, that allows one to sit down at a table, have any choice of morning pastry, coffee prepared any style and freshly squeezed orange juice.  One prepays for coupons at the hotel desk.  In 2023 the breakfast deal cost only 5€/person.

·       There is a Carrefour mini-supermarket very close to the hotel that is extremely well stocked.

Web:                        https://www.hotelpanda.it/index.php?flag=EN

E-Mail                      info@hotelpanda.it

Telephone:              39 06 6780179

Hotel Ascot

Via Montebello 22 (Termini/Repubblica) just north of the Baths of Diocletian branch of the Museo Nazionale Romano.   Building had small, old-fashioned elevator.  Breakfast included.  Credit cards accepted.  Low season (November 1 – March 31) rate in 2023:  135€.  Rooms have real windows and private bath.  Located between Termini and Repubblica Metropolitana stations.  Appears to be an excellent budget choice. 

Web:                        http://www.hotelascotroma.com/index.php

E-Mail:                     info@hotelascotroma.com

Telephone:              39 06 4740165

 Hotel Hollywood

Via Principe Amedeo 79A-79B (Termini).  Affiliated with at least one nearby B&B with very reasonable prices, breakfast included, spacious area room and easy walk to the train station.  Good option for the night before going out to the airport.   Note that this is one of a group of budget hotels in the same area,. 

Web:                        http://www.hotelhollywoodrome.com/en/#camere

E-Mail:                     info@hotelhollywoodrome.com

Telephone               39 06 4470 4335

Arco del Tolomei

Via dell'Arco de' Tolomei, 27 (Trastevere).  Very beautiful and quite reasonable in the low season.  Privately owned, highly recommended by a Rome travel expert in a New York Times travel piece in late 2013.  B&B, elegantly furnished.  Discounts apply for stays of 4 days or longer, and there is a 10% discount for payment in cash.  A check of shoulder season (March 2014) showed a daily rate, for a one week stay, of 145€ per day, if payment made in cash.

Web:                      http://www.bbarcodeitolomei.com/en/index.php

E-Mail:                    info@bbarcodeitolomei.com

Telephone:            39  06 5832 0819

Apartment Rental

We have had superb experience, in Florence, with ItalyPerfect, which also books apartments in Rome.

E-Mail: https://www.italyperfect.com/

Phone (US): 888-520-2087

Eating

Restaurants in red were confirmed to exist in 2023 or were actually tried.

Excellent, even memorable, eating experiences at the following:  Note:  Some restaurants offer an antipasto della casa or "collato" plate - for a fixed price, you can help your self, buffet-style, to the available antipasti dishes set out.

Wine Bars and Light Food

Vyta

Via Frattini, 94 (corner of Via Belsiana).  Piazza di Spagna area.  High style wine bar featuring wines of Italy, many from the Lazio region.  Several other locations around Rome

Il Goccetto

Via del Banchi Vecchi, 14.  (Campo di Fiori, near Via Giulia).  Extensive choice of wines by bottle and glass at reasonable prices.  Warm, old wood ambience.  Very popular.  Open mid-day, then closes and re-opens at 67:30 p.m.  Closing day not known.

Gelato

Giolitti

Via Uffici del Vicario 40 , between the Pantheon and Via del Corso).  A famous gelato place.  Expensive.

Il Palazzo del Freddo di Giovanni Fassi

Via Principe Eugenio 65/67 (Esquilino, close to Porta Maggiore)., closed Monday.  Famous old style place, with very reasonable prices and wide selection.

Regular Restaurants

WALKING DISTANCE OF PIAZZA DI SPAGNA

L'Orso 80

Via dei Soldati 25 (Tel 06-6864250) [on map may appear as Via del Orso].  North of Piazza Navona.  Excellent antipasto della casa (one order at 11 Euros practically a meal in itself).  Closed Monday.

Enoteca Buccone

Via di Ripetta 19-20.  Only open Friday and Saturday for dinner (until 10:00 p.m.).  Very lively, good basic food, friendly service.

Babette

Via Margutta 1d.  Beginning of Via Margutta at the Piazza del Poplo end, where it enters Via del Babuino.  Excellent, top flight cooking in a cozy, unpretentious setting at reasonable prices.

Otello all Concordia

Via Mario Fiori 40/A (alternatively Via della Croce 81).  Enter from Via Mario Fiori.  Very close to Hotel Panda.  A good solid, typical Roman tratorria.

Matricianella

Via dei Leone 4.  Very good food on a quiet street with pleasant outdoor seating as well as a set of cozy rooms inside. 

Perroni

Via San Marcello, 19 (just off the Corso behind the Church of San Marcello).  Classic Roman lunch place, lively, good food, reasonable prices.

Abruzzi

Via del Vacarro, 1, nr the Church of the SS. Apostoli (nr Palazzo Colonna, not far from Piazza Venezia).  (Tel 06-6793 897).  Closed Saturday.  Lunch and dinner.  Features local pasta dishes, plus a wonderful selection of buffet antipasti. ("collato")

Casina Valadier

Piazza Bucarest (atop the PIncio), elegant former “palace” with seating overlooking all of Rome.  Excellent food, moderately expensive.  Lunch and dinner (beginning 8:00 p.m.)  Open daily.

Obicà

Piazza di Firenze, corner of Via dei Prefetti (Parliament area).  (Tel 06-683 2630).  [Also has a branch in Campo dei Fiori]  Open daily, continuously from 12 noon to midnight.  Italian brunch Saturday and Sunday.  High style restaurant with a young crowd, calling itself a “mozzarella bar” – serving some of the finest mozzarella types anywhere, as well as stupendous salads and other interesting artisanal foods.  Moderate (not inexpensive) but very good.  This restaurant now not only has a location also in Campo di Fiori, but has expanded to New York and several other cities outside Rome.

TESTACCIO

Augustarello

Via Giovanni Branca, 98,  Absolutely excellent, mid-priced, closed Sunday, no credit card.  Small space and reservations strongly advised (many were turned away who had no reservation).  Vegetables particularly outstanding.

Felice a Testaccio

Via Mastro Giorgio, 29  (Tel 06-5746800).  Superb, family-run, very popular neighborhood restaurant.  Famous for its "cacio e pepe" -an institution.  Reservations in advance are absolutely essential.

Il Cantinone

Piazza Testaccio (Tel 06-5746253).  Excellent, family restaurant.  Superb "alla carbonara."  Reservation not needed, but always bustling.

TRASTEVERE

Al  Carbone

Via della Luce, 5.  Family runs.  Simple, extremely good pasta dishes, excellent bread.  Main courses first class as well.

Augusto

Piazza de Renzi, 15  Very inexpensive, open every day.  Good, solid cooking of Roman specialties.  Outdoor dining in a delightful little piazza.  Very lively, sinople abnd filled with locals.  Extremely reasonable.

Ferrara

Via del Moro, 1A.  Trastevere.  (Tel 06-5803769).  Closed Sunday.  Dinner only (no reservations before 8:00 p.m.).  Terrific, elegant, interesting food and a very extensive (fairly expensive) wine list.  A few white wines at fairly low prices.  We found it somewhat pretentious.

Da Carbone

Via della Cisterna 13.  Good solid trattoria cooking.

Da Giovanni Osteria e Cucina

Via della Lungara 41A a sunken street right next to the busy Lungotevere on the Trastevere side.  Small family restaurant, very good Roman food, extremely inexpensive.  Closed Sunday.

Pizzeria Panattoni

Viale de Trastevere, 53.  Open only in the evenings.  Closing day:  Wednesday.  Reputed to have the best pizza in Rome.  Outdoor seating.  Famous for making the pizzas on marble counters, thus it often has the name L’Obitortio.

PRATI / VATICAN

Il Matriciano

Via dei Gracchi 55.  (Tel 06-3212327).  Closed Wednesday in winter, Saturday in summer.  Not too far from St. Peter’s.  Good food,.

MONTI / ESQUILINO

Taverna Romana

Via Madonna dei Monti 79 (behind the Forum of Augustus).  Inexpensive, excellent pasta and standard Roman specialities in a simple, lively, trattoria setting.  Closing day not known.  Very enjoyable.

Trattoria Monti

Via di San Vito 19 (corner with Via Carlo Alberto), Metropolitana station Vittorio Emanuelle  (Tel 06-446-6573) Monti.  Excellent family run restaurant specializing in cuisine of the Marches.  Reservation essential.  Closed Monday.  Open for lunch only on Sunday.  Esquilino section.

Trattoria da Valentino

Via Cavour, 293 (Monti).  Simple, friendly.

Casadante

Piazza Dante, 8

Horti Magici

Casetta Liberty, Giardini di Piazza Vittorio Emanuelle II.  Set in a lovely lush garden and serving simple brunch-type specialties.

CAMPO DI FIORI / JEWISH GHETTO

Pancrazio

Piazza del Biscione 92.  Delightful non-touristy restaurant a very short distance from the Campo di Fiori.  Ask to see the remains of the quite important Theater of Pompey inside.

Sora Margherita

Piazza delle Cinque Scole, 30 (Tel 06-6874216).  Closed Monday.  Lunch and dinner. Just off Via Porta di Octavia.  Hole in the wall.  Inexpensive but wonderful cooking in a working class setting.  Great fun.

Giggetto

Via del Portico d’Ottavia 21A (Jewish Ghetto).  Famous restaurant in the Jewish Ghetto.  Closed Monday.  Lively, bustling, large restaurant, mid-priced but reasonable for the quality and portions

Antico Forno Roscioli

Via dei Chiavari, 34 (Campo dei Fiori).  Superb pizza, breads, sandwiches, antipasti, pasta.  Popular, bustling, mainly for lunch "on the go" with stand-up outdoor tables, a few seats inside.  Very inexpensive.  Closed Sunday.  Open 7:00 a.m. - 7:30 p.m.  Note that the Roscioli family runs a "food empire" in this area, with a salumeria, bread bakery, wine bar, and more.

SAN LORENZO

Tram-Tram

Via dei Reti, 46.  San Lorenzo (northeast of the train station, near the Church of San Lorenzo fuori le Mura  (Tel 06-490416).  Noisy, small, crowded, lots of college students, but absolutely terrific food.

Da Franco

Via dei Falisci, 2.  San Lorenzo (near the underpass under the Termini tracks for outgoing trains passing from Esquilino to San Lorenzo.  Classic neighborhood restaurant, with locals only, specializing in seafood.  A set four course meal (one course = 3 pasta dishes and another = 3 fish dishes), including half bottle of house wine was 18€.  A la carte menu also.

VIA APPIA

Antica Romana

On Appia Antica, not too far from the information center.  Owner lived in the U.S., and is entertaining.  Pleasant outdoor tables, very reasonably priced.

Money Exchange

The best option is always using an ATM.  Note that in Rome it is hard to find ATMs affiliated with a real bank - these charge minimal or no fees.  Far more common are stand-alone ATM (Euronet seems to be the most common).  These charge steep fees.

Culture

·       The Rome Opera House sells tickets at discount (up to 50%) off for those 65 and over, according to availability.

·       The Oratoroio of Gonfalone has a wonderful program of Thursday night concerts in the winter season at reasonable ticket prices in a magnificent setting.  Start time, not announced on the Web or in the program booklet is 9:00 p.m.

·       Sant’ Agnese d’Agone Church has an excellent Friday recitals in the Sacristy, which is a magnificent Baroque space by Borromini.  Concerts start at 6:30 p.m.

·       All Saints Church, Via del Babuino

·       Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina, 55 (Ardeatina/Magliana) – Metro Linea B - Piramide

Churches  (listed in this section are those already visited)

TIPS:  Most churches close for some period in the middle of the day.  Generally, churches that are darkish inside have the best natural illumination in the morning.  Consider visiting churches on Sunday morning before masses begin or after they end.  Some of the churches with beautiful mosaiacs are lit for services.  Otherwise, they are often in the dark, except for very brief periods of illumination which must be coin-operated (and thus can get expensive).  Another interesting time to visit many churches is late Saturday morning, when weddings are typically held - the churches are beautifully decorated and often lit up; this may be the only time to slip into some less well-known churches that are essentially never open.

The following churches were considered memorable for the stated reasons

Sant’ Ivo

Borromini’s most sublime design, inside and outside, set in a beautiful inner courtyard.  Piazza Navona area.  Very limited hours (as of March 2009: Sunday mornings only, 10:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.)

San Luigi del Francese

The Caravaggio paintings of St. Matthew are amongst the painter’s finest works

Near Piazza Navona

Santa Maria sopra Minerva

Contains beautiful, varied art work.  Most memorable are an  imposing statue of Christ by Michelangelo, the Carafa chapel with utterly magnificent frescoes by Filippino Lippi, and the tomb of Fra Angelico.  Outside is Bernini’s delightful statue of an elephant bearing an obelisk.  Many wonderful art works.  Pantheon area

Santa Maria della Pace

Bramante church fitted into a tiny setting, but all the more magnificent.  The Bramante cloister is of equal note.  Contains frescoes by Raphael inside.

San Stefano Rotundo

This early, round church is sublime.  Celian Hill area

Santa Maria Domnica

Quiet church in a lovely setting, next to the beautiful Villa Celiomontana public park.  Magnificent apse early mosaics.  Had it all to ourselves.  Celian Hill area.

Santa Maria del Popolo

A wealth of great art works, including several Caravaggio’s and a magnificent Pinturicchio (first chapel on the right), the Chigi Chapel designed by Raphael.  Piazza del Popolo

San Clemente

A palimpsest of many ages.  Magnificent frescoes by Masolino da Panicale, teacher of Mantegna.  Also contains mosaics, fascinating underground areas (including a room from early Roman times, dedicated to Mithraic services.  Celian Hill area

Santa Prassede

Easily the most magnificent mosaics (especially, but not exclusively in the exquisite, tiny Chapel of San Zenone), along with Santa Maria in Trastevere, in a church that breathes of the very early middle ages.  Santa Maria Maggiore area.

9th Century Mosaics, Chapel of San Zenone, Santa Prassede

San Carlo de Quattro Fontane

Another Borromini gem, including the cloister.  Quirinale area

San Silvestro

Have to ring the bell of the sacristan.  Lovely frescoes, quiet.  Quirinale area.

Sant’ Andrea delle Fratte

Borromini – most noteworthy is the exterior, which can be appreciated at all only by walking up the side street, Via Capo le Case.  Piazza di Spagna area

Santa Maria della Vittoria

Contains Bernini’s famous statue of St. Teresa in Ecstasy.  Piazza della Republica area. Santa Maria di Trastevere

Fabulous mosaics, insides (apse) and out (on the upper part of the façade).  Set in a beautiful square.  Trastevere

San Benedetto de Piscinula

Piazza Piscinula.  Tiny church with lovely, very old art.  Faces a “real” piazza, just off the Tiber.  Feels very “local.”  Trastevere

San Pietro in Montorio

Janiculum.  Beautiful art inside (marble statues on a balustrade of cherubim, a Sebastiano del Piombo painting of the Flagellation of Christ), perhaps best seen in later afternoon in Spring or Summer.  Also noteworthy is Delmonte Chapel.  Next door is Bramante’s perfect Tempietto.  Winter hours:  8:30 a.m. – 12:00 p.m., 3:00 – 4:00 p.m. (Church) and 9:30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m., 2:00 – 4:00 p.m. (Tempietto)

Santa Maria in Cosmedin

Early church with beautiful Cosmatic inlaid floors.  Aventine area

Santa Maria in Aracoeli

Piazza del Campidoglio, Hours 9:00 a.m. – 12:30 p.m., 2:30 – 5:30 p.m.

A wealth of art throughout the church, very ancient

San Giorgio in Velabro

Very simple, tranquil early church.  Frescoes attributed to Cavallini.  Roman Forum area

Sant’ Agnese fuori le Mura (also see the Catacombs of the church)

Off the Via Nomentana.  Exquisite, quietly set in its own park-like surroundings.  Very ancient.

Santa Costanza

Very near to and related to Sant’ Agnese fuori le Mura.  Easily the quietest, loveliest early church (vying with San Stefano Rotundo) with amongst the most beautiful mosaics in Rome (on the ceiling)

San Lorenzo fuori le Mura

Lovely cloister.  The church has a number of lovely elements.  San Lorenzo district.

San Paolo fuori le Mura

The largest church in Rome after St. Peter’s.  Though much of it burned down in 1823, it is a very ancient church and has been faithfully reconstructed.  Some of the mosaics and other precious elements are original.  DJ doesn’t like it.   On the Via Ostiense (has its own Metro Linea B station).

Santa Sabina

Very lovely, ancient beautiful basilica in Rome (Aventine Hill)

Adjoining it, is a lovely small park, Parco Savello (also called the Giardino dei Aranci) which in addition to its own loveliness, is high above the Tiber with terrific views out of all Rome

San Saba

A peaceful, ancient church, set in its own garden.  Magnificent early medieval frescoes.  Picolo Aventine Hill

San Stefano de Cacco

Tiny, ancient church.  Ring the bell next door for access by the monks.  Near Corso Vittorio Emanuelle II.

Santa Croce in Gerusalemme

(Lateran)  Web:  Daily – 7:00 a.m. – 12:45 p.m., 2:00 – 7:00 p.m.  Important basilica.

San Crisogogno

Viale di Trastevere, near the Tiber (Trastevere)  Web:  Daily 7:30 – 11:30 a.m., 4:00 – 7:00 p.m.  The very early church underneath can be visited (for a charge).  A beautiful quiet church often overlooked.

Santa Cecilia di Trastevere

Trastevere.  (excavations; Cavallini frescoes can only be visited 10:15 a.m. – 12:00 p.m., Su 11:15 a.m. – 12:15 a.m., Web: Church - M-Sa – 9:30 a.m. – 1:00 p.m., 4:00 – 6:30 p.m., Su – 11:15 a.m. – 12:15 p.m.).  There is a fee to visit the Cavallini frescoes, but they are magnificent and very important in the history of late medieval, early Renaissance artistic development in Rome.

Church Floor - 12th Century Cosmati in-lay

Santi Giovanni & Paolo

Celian Hill.  The setting is quiet and peaceful.  Magnificent late medieval bell tower, beautiful porch.

Santa Balbina

Picolo Aventine. (very limited hours – in 2006, M-F, 12:30 – 1:00 p.m., and Sunday mornings, Web: M-F - 10:30 a.m. – 1:00 p.m., Su – 10:30 – 11:30 a.m.).  Lovely Cosmatesque tomb and bishop’s chair (on altar), Roman mosaics in the floor, ancient amphora mounted on the walls.

Close-up of Cosmatesque inlay work, 12th century, Santa Balbina

Abbazia delle Tre Fontane Via Acque Salvie off of busy Via Laurentina (EUR), nearest metro is Laurentina (Linea B).  When exiting from the Metro station, go out to Via Laurentina and turn right – proceed along Via Laurentina, ignoring signs for the Santuario della Tre Fontane.  In approximately ½ mile come to the entrance of the Abbazia.  The Abbey includes three out of the way but worthwhile churches within the compound, the finest, architecturally, amongst being  Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio alle Tre Fontane   Hours:  7:30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m., 4:00 – 7:00 p.m.  Excellent, unique example of Cistercian/Burgundian style.  Very austere.  See Rizzoli.

Santi Quattro Coronati

Celian Hill.  Via dei Ss.Quattro  6:15 a.m. – 8:00 p.m., Su closed betw. 12:30 – 2:30 p.m.  Extremely beautiful frescoes, 12th century, in the first chapel between the first and second courtyard, (Chapel of San Silvestro). 

                                             Chapel of San Silvestro                                                             Cloister

San Giovanni in Laterano

Laterano.  Especially fine in addition to the Basilica itself, are the Sancta Santorum (across the street), Baptistry (separate octagonal structure near the obelisk with gorgeous early mosaics), and the cloister.

                                   7th Century Mosaic - Baptistry                                              12th Century Cloister

Santa Maria Maggiore

Esquilino (near Termini).  Magnificent coffered ceiling and apse mosaics (5th century in the arch, late 13th century in the apse itself).  Important chapels:

Capella Sistina – late Renaissance

Capella Borghese (Capella Paolina) – shows the beginnings of the Baroque style

Capella Sforza - designed by Michelangelo

NOTE:  It appears that visits to the Loggia and the Bernini "stairs" are only possible by groups through prior arrangement but try further to determine how individuals might visit these parts of the basilia.

San Marco

Piazza Venezia 48 (actually on Piazza San Marco,   See Rizzoli, p. 109, Hours – Daily, 8:30 a.m. – 12:00 p.m., 3:00 – 6:30 p.m. (slightly different on holidays)

Sant’ Agostino

Piazza Sant’ Agostino (nr. Pantheon)  Hours:  9:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m., 4:30 – 7:30 p.m. (Su from 3:30 p.m.).  Marvelous Caravaggio and a small fresco by Raphael

Other Churches seen

San Ignazio

Piazza San Ignazio.  Open all day.  An incredible illusionistic ceiling and many fine chapels.

Sant’ Agnese in Agone

Piazza Navona.  Hours 9:00 a.m.- 12:00 p.m., 4:00 – 7:00 p.m., Su/Holidays – 10:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m., 4:00 – 8:00 p.m.

Santi Cosma e Damiano

Via di Fori Imperiali 1  (Roman Forum area)  Hours:  8:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m., 3:00 – 7:00 p.m.  Early mosaics in the apse.  Beautiful courtyard.

Chiesa del Gesù

Piazza del Gesù, Via degli Astalli 16 (off Corso Vittorio Emanuelle II)  Hours:  6:30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m., 4:00 – 7:00 p.m.  The Baroque in all its over-the-top splendor

Chiesa Nuova (formal name:  Santa Maria in Valicella)

Via Governo Vecchio, 134 (actually faces onto Corso Vittorio Emanuelle II).  Like Il Gesù, Baroque in all its over-the-top splendor, with some interesting art.  Hours 9:00 a.m. - 12:00 noon, 4:30 - 7:00 p.m.

Oratorio de San Filippo Neri  (Oratorio of the Fillippini)

Corso Vittorio Emanuelle II nr Piazza Navona (by Borromini); now deconsecrated and a state building.  Open weekdays

San Giovanni di Porta Latina

nr. Porta San Sebastiano, Via di Porta Latina, 17 – very fine frescoes, Su only, 8:00 a.m. – 12:30 p.m.  Currently under renovation, beautiful, unspoiled early period façade and courtyard.  Very peaceful.

Santa Maria di Loretto

Next to Trajan’s Column, Piazza Madonna de Loretto  Hours:  9:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m.,  4:00 – 6:00 p.m.

S. Silvestro in Capite

Piazza San Silvestro (Spagna, nr Via del Corso), 7:30 a.m. – 7:00 p.m. (see Rizzoli, pp.105)

San Lorenzo in Lucina

Via in Lucina 16a Spagna, off Via Frattina. 9:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m., 4:30 – 7:30 p.m. (slightly different on Su), see Rizzoli, p. 105

San Sisto Vecchio

near Baths of Caracalla.  Only can be visited by ringing buzzer and being escorted by a sister, as it is part of an ancient Domenican nunnery.

San Martino ai Monti (also known as Santi Silvestro e Martino ai Monti

Santa Maria del Monti 

Ancient Rome:  Roman Republic and Imperial era ruins, museums, etc.  (See also Rizzoli, p. 28ff)

·       Purchase a 20€ archeological pass, good for 7 days, to visit many of the most important Roman sites (Colosseum, Palatine Hill, Tomb of Cecelia Metella, Baths of Caracalla), and all components of the Museo Nazionale Romano – Palazzo Massimo,  Palazzo Altemps, Baths of Diocletian (a museum), Crypta Balbi.  Very good value.

·       Largo Argentina

·       Porta di Octavia (Jewish Ghetto)

·       Theatre of Marcellus

·       Roman Forum (NOTE: Re-opening of the Oratorio dei Quaranta Martiri and of Tempio di Romolo with its own guided tour admission ticket, 10:00 a.m. – 1:30 p.m., daily).  Entrance is now 9€ (combined with the Palatine Hill).

·       Palatine Hill – a fine place for a stroll above the Roman forum (to the north) and the Circo Massimo (to the south) with great views out.    To access a number of magnificent interiors, buy the S.U.P.E.R. ticket - it allows access to the Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum in one day (and only one day) but provides special access, including to the magnificent Palatine Museum.

o   House of Livia

o   House of Augustus

o   Nero's Cryptoporticus

o   Domus Flavia

o   Temple of Romulus

o   Loggia Mattei (Aula Isiaca)

·       Market of Trajan (Rizzoli, p. 37)

        Trajan's Market - the Great Hemisphere

·       Market of Augustus

·       Column of Trajan

·       Nero’s Golden House (Domus Aurea), Via della Domus Aurea - Giardini di Colle Oppio (across from the Colosseum and behind the Colosseo Metro station, going towards San Giovanni in Laterano. Open for pre-booked tours on Friday - Sunday.

·       Ara Pacis (Altar of Peace – Augustus) – now in its own new museum by Richard Meier

·       Aurelian Walls and the Museum of the Walls (at Porta San Sebastiano)

·      Porta Maggiore (the grandest of the great Roman gates in the walls around Rome

Nymphaeum Museum of Piazza Vittorio - First opened in 2021, it contains findings from Emperor Caligula's hideaway, the Horti Lamiani, an imperial pleasure garden.

Outskirts of Rome

·      Hadrian's Villa - Very extensive site.  Plan on an entire day to fully explore

·      Villa of the Quintili - An extensive ancient villa built by two brothers, consuls under the Emperor Commodus.  An active archeological site with much to see.

Ports of Rome 

·      Ostia - the main port during the Republican period, a huge site requiring the better part of a day to explore thoroughly

·      Portus - near Fiumicino International Airport., this was the port during the Imperial period.  Many excavations here are quite recent.  Read a background piece.

Museums

Comments on the following museums visited.  Those in red are considered absolutely indispensible and should be the first priority.

Capitoline Museums

Full admission price – 6.50€.  Stupendous collection, ranging from Roman statuary to 18th century painting.   Sometimes has fabulous temporary shows. (

Villa Farnesina

Full admission price (2011) – 5€.   Senior price– 3€    The Raphael, Sodoma, and Peruzzi frescoes are magnificent in the various rooms.  The villa is in a lovely garden setting.  Trastevere (on the Tiber embankment, but enter from Via della Lungara, across from the Palazzo Corsini).

Galleria Doria Pamphili

Full admission price – 7.50€ (includes recorded audio tour at no extra charge)

A number of truly first class paintings, jammed together with many others of lesser interest in beautiful rooms.  Somewhat dark, and generally very chilly inside.

Galleria Borghese

Visits in two hour segment only, beginning at 9:00 a.m.  Essential to book online in advance.

Fabulous Bernini statues and a number of very fine paintings

Located in Villa Borghese (park)

Palazzo Massimo

Repubblica.  One of the components (along with the Baths of Diocletian, Crypta Balbi, and Palazzo Altemps) of the Museo Nazionale Romano.  A stunning collection of ancient Roman finds – particularly noteworthy are the wall paintings from the Villa of Livia.

Museo dell'Arte Salvata (Museum of Rescued Art)

A part of the Museo Nazionale Romano, opened in 2022, and dedicated to works of art "rescued" as a result of natural disaster or more commonly, illegally removed from Italy and returned.  Items are on display temporarily and eventually put in a museum appropriate to the object by virtue of geographic location, nature of the piece, or other criteria.

Museo Nazionale di Piazza Venezia

Piazza Venezia.  Usually overlooked, but houses a varied, first-class collection, including porcelain, sculpture, and paintings.  Especially noteworthy are late medieval, early Renaissance period, and an exceptional Gorgione.  Some of the apartments are beautifully decorated.  Not all of the museum is open due to renovations.

Museo di Roma

Piazza Navona area.  Not for the first time visit, but housed in the last, and very beautifully decorated, of the great urban palazzos built in Rome.  Interesting way to understand life in the city from the late middle ages up to the late 19th century.  Many of the rooms/apartments are highly decorated.

Villa Guilia

Full admission price – 4€. Beautiful Renaissance palace housing a magnificent Etruscan collection.  Excellently displayed.  The inner gardens and courtyards are equally beautiful.  Very few visitors

Located in Villa Borghese (park)

Vatican Museums

Full admission price (2009) – 14€ (free the last Sunday of each month; no reductions for over 65)

Regardless of whether it is a free Sunday (last Sunday of the month) or any other day, long lines forms before opening time.  High points include the Pinacoteca, the Pio Clementine, and Egyptian collections.  Consider the Gregoriano Profano and Chiaramonte Museum collections.  The Biblioteca Vaticana has one room with exceptional Roman painting.

HELPFUL HINT: Go on a weekday (consider Monday) and arrive approximately 11L00 a.m. or 12 noon, after the initial surge of visitors at opening time.  Lines for tickets are non-existent, and crowds in the museum are much less than on a free Sunday.  Go to the Sistine Chapel immediately upon entering (if entering at opening time) or shortly before closing.  It is the only way to see it without wall-to-wall crowds.  Same with the Raphael stanze.  Closing time is extended to 5:45 a.m. beginning March 1 of each year.  In 2009, the small Chapel of Nicholas V, with paintings by Fra’ Angelico was closed.

NOTE:  To arrange a visit to the Vatican Gardens, make arrangements at the ticket window area of the Vatican Museum.  Visits to the ancient necropolis must be made to side of St. Peter’s Basilica.

Palazzo Colonna

Extravagant Baroque interior and some excellent art

Only open Saturdays, 9:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m.

Trastevere area

Palazzo Corsini

One of the components of the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica.  Closed Monday

Good, not great collection of paintings, but hardly visited by tourists.  A few masterpieces.  Across from the Villa Farnesina and backs up against Parco di Giacolense (Janiculum Park).

Janiculum/Trastevere area

Palazzo Barberini

Metropolitana Line A to Barberini station.  Beautiful palazzo, with a small but high quality collection of painting and sculpture (a number of fine pieces by Bernini).  It has been only partially open for years due to extensive renovation activities.

Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106 (Testaccio).  Take Metropolitana Line B to the Garbatella station.  A branch of the Capitoline Museum located, in a recycled power plant that retains the old machinery.  The combination of electric power industry equipment and the beautifully set out ancient sculpture (and some other Roman artifacts) is dazzling.  Almost unknown but a real find.  One can buy a combination ticket for the Capitoline Museums and the Centrale Montemartini good for one week (but one visit only to each museum).

Palazzo Spada

Campo di Fiori area.  Restored by Borromini.  Lots of paintings but not many of the first tier.  However, the building and back garden are marvelous, and the Perspettivo by Borromini is not to be missed.

MACRO Future.

Testaccio.  Two former slaughterhouse buildings have been converted into space for very contemporary exhibitions.  Closed Mondays.  Open late.

MUSEUMS WITH HIGH-QUALITY TEMPORARY ART EXHIBITS ONLY (no permanent collection - check current schedule):

·     Scuderie del Quirinale - via XXIV Maggio 16 (Quirinale)

·     Museo del Corso - two locations almost across from each other along the lower end of Via del Corso:  Palazzo Cipolla (Via del Corso, 320) and Palazzo Sciarra (Via Marco Minghetti, 22, corner with Via del Corso)

·     Complesso Vittoriano, entering the back end of the Victor Emanuel Monument, from the Via del Foro Imperiali (in 2009, had a fabulous Giotto show, in 2011 a show on Mondrian)

·     Palazzo di Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194 (Quirinale) - interesting, unpredictable temporary shows (e.g., Soviet Realism)

Other Sites visited in Rome

Collegio di Propaganda Fide

Spagna.  via Due Macelli/Via di Propaganda – façade by Borromini

Palazzo Farnese

Prior arrangements must be made with the French Embassy in order to be permitted entrance.  Tours are free and at 5:00 p.m. on two days a week. The most lavish palazzo in Rome.  Contains the fabulous frescoes by Annibale Caracci.  Contact the Cultural Services Office of the French Embassy in Rome at 06-686011 to make an advance appointment to visit.  Campo di Fiori area

Castello San Angelo

Borgo, on the Tiber.  Now a museum and fortress, with great views over Rome and some extremely beautiful Papal apartments, prisons in the depths, and examples of magnificent construction techniques of the Roman Empire.

Villa Medici

Visits accepted for Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday only in winter months, and most days beginning some time in March.  Show up (no advance reservation necessary) for tours conducted beginning at 9:45 a.m. up until 3:00 p.m.  Tours include the gardens.  In 2009, over 65 cost was 6€.

View into the Gardens from the Back Loggia of Villa Medici

Piazza Mincio and surrounding streets

Dense collection of the wild architectural imagination, especially in apartment buildings by the 1920’s Italian architect Coppède.

Oratorio de Gonfalone

Off Via Giulia a few steps from the Tiber.  Magnificent murals surrounding the entire space.  Concerts are given here.  Best time to get in is late morning.  To visit, enter from Viccolo de Scimia, one block parallel (back side of Oratorio).  Telephone:  06-875952

Murals: Oratorio of Gonfalone

Villa Doria Pamphilj

Janiculum.  Rome’s largest park – beautiful vistas, and while not kept up as well as it should be, still very lovely.  It contains the Casino di Bel Respiro of the original villa, which is off limits but can be viewed from the outside, with its exceptional formal gardens.  HINT:  The 115 ATAC bus can be taken from Trastevere all the way up the Janiculum and to within a few blocks of the park entrance – otherwise it is a long, steep climb.

Casino del Bel Respiro with formal gardens, Villa Doria Pamphilj Park

Parco degli Aquedotti (Park of Aqueduct Ruins)

Metro Line A to Subaugusta (alternatively to Cinecittà) stop.  Magnificent park setting for the ruins of several of the ancient aqueducts, including the particularly dramatic Claudian Aqueduct.

Claudian Aqueduct - Park of Aqueduct Ruins

Protestant Cemetery (Cimiterio Accatolico).

Testaccio, very close to Piramide Metro Station (Line B).  Built into the Aurelian Walls and against the Pyramid of C. Cestius, this is an absolutely divinely peaceful place to wander.  Graves of Shelley and Keats and many other foreigners.

Protestant Cemetery - John Keat's (left) and friend Joseph Severn (right)

Santo Spirito in Sassia complex - Hospital and Church)

(Borgo) – hospital is beautiful early Renaissance example, church hours: 7:00 a.m. – 12:00 noon, 3:00 – 7:00 p.m.

Modern Architecture

·       Parco della Musica (north of the Villa Borghese) - designed by Renzo Piano

·       MAXXI, via Guido Reni, 21 (Flamenio) - designed by Zaha Hadid.  Take Tram No. 2  from just outside the Porto del Popolo to the 5th stop (Apollodoro) and walk down Via Guido Reni

·       EUR – Numerous buildings on the outskirts of Rome built under Mussolini, but by some very fine architects.  Can be reached by Metropolitana Line B – get off at either Laurentina or EUR Fermi.  A number of buildings now house various major national museums.  Perhaps most stunning of all the original buildings is the Palazzo dei Congressi, still used for expositions and conventions.

·       Foro Italico – A sports stadium built under Mussolini and considered an iconic architectural site of the period.

Great Renaissance and Baroque Libraries

• Biblioteca Casanatense, Via San Ignazio, 52 (between Pantheon and Via del Corso).  Hours:  Mo - Fr, 8:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m., Sa, 8:00 a.m. - 1:30 p.m.  Note that public visits (non-readers) are only available on the daily 11:00 a.m. tour.

Outskirts of Rome

• Hadrian’s Villa – very peaceful (UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE)

•  Villa of the Quintili - An extensive ancient villa built by two brothers, consuls under the Emperor Commodus.  An active archeological site with much to see.

  • Ostia Antica – extensive, quite magnificent, and very peaceful.  Reachable via Metropolitana and then with connection on one of ATAC’s rural train lines

• Via Appia Antica – now part of a large regional park on the outskirts of Rome.  Walking the ancient highway on a quiet Sunday morning is a delightful experience, including (as just a few of many examples):

  • Catacombs of San Calisto

  • Fosse Ardeatina (Ardeatine Caves) where in 1944 the Germans massacred 335 Italians (museum, caves, mausoleum)

  • Valley of the Caffarella (marvelous walks with wonderful natural vistas and Roman ruins to see, including, particularly Nymphaeum of Egeria)

  • Circus of Maxentius and Tomb of Romulus

  • Tomb of Cecilia Metellus

• Frascati (Castelli region) & Villa Aldobrandini (M-F, 9:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m., 3:00 – 6:00 p.m.).  When the villa was visited in 2009, the grounds and gardens were open but not the villa, and times listed here may not apply (that is, there may be no mid-day closing period

• Villa d’Este (Tivoli) – magnificent Renaissance water gardens (UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE)

===============================================================

Not Yet Seen / Experienced

MUSEUMS & HISTORIC PLACES

·       Ancient Necropolis under St. Peter’s (Vatican) – details of reserving a tour in Rizzoli, p. 211

·       Casa dell’Architettura/Acquario Romano, Esquilino

·       Teatro Ambra Jovinelli, Esquilino

·       Palazzo Pallavicini-Rospigliosi with the Casino dell’ Aurora (contains fresco masterpiece of Guido Reni) – via XXIV Maggio, 43 Piazza Quirinale (Quirinale) – apparently is now a luxury hotel.  The Casino is only open the first Saturday (or first day?) of each month.

·     Casino Boncompagn-Ludovisi -- via Lombardia, 46 (near Via Veneto); magnificent ceiling fresco attributed to Caravaggio.  Visits by reservation, but very expensive (in 2011:  20€)

·     Museo Mario Praz,  Via Giuseppe Zanardelli, 1 (nr Ponte Umberto I at via di Monte Brianzo, Piazza Navona area), per NY Times, a very magnificent collection.  Closed Monday.

·       Museo Napoleonico (Napoleonic Museum), Piazza di Ponte Umberto I, 1 (Piazza Navona area.  In the Palazzo Primoli, an interesting interior space.  Hours:  9:00 a.m. – 7:00 p.m., Closed Monday.

·       Museo Via Ostiense (Museum of the Ostia Road), Via Augusto Persichetti 3 (located in the Porta San Paolo, near the Piramide Metro Station (Linea B), Hours:  9:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m., Tuesday - Sunday + 2:30 - 4:30 p.m., Tuesday & Thursday.  Free

·      Museum-Atelier Canova-Tadolini, Via del Babuino 150 a/b (Spagna).  Hours: M – Sa, 9:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m. daily.  Closed August.

·    Museo Ebraico di Roma, Lungotevere de’ Cenci, 15 (Templo Maggiore Synagogue), Jewish Ghetto.  Hours:  Su – Th, 9:00 a.m. – 4:30 p.m., Fr, 9:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. (later afternoon hours June – September).

·    Great Renaissance Libraries:

• • • National Lincean Academy and Corsiniana, Via della Lungara, 10, Trastevere.  Located in the Palazzo Corsini (home to the Galleria Corsini.  Open Mo - Fr, 9:00 a.m. - 1:00 p.m., until 5:00 p.m., Th

• • Crociera Library, Collegio Romano of the Society of Jesus, Via del Collegio Romano, 27 (between Pantheon and Via del Corso).  No details about the possibility of a visit currently available.

  • The Angelica Library, Piazza San'Agostino 8 (Piazza Navona area)

CONTEMPORARY MUSEUMS & PRIVATE GALLERIES

·       Museo d’Arte Contemporanea di Roma (MACRO), Via Reggio Emilia 54 (nr Via Nomentana). Hours, Tu -Su 9.00 a.m. - 7.00 p.m.

·       Fondazione Pastificio Cerere, Via degli Ausoni, 7 (San Lorenzo) - showcase for new art and studios for young talent.  A very "happening" place

·       Gagosian Gallery, 16 Via Francesco Crispi (opened December 2007)

·       Lorcan O’Neill Gallery, 1e Via Orti d’Alibert (Trastevere), opened September 2008)

·       Mercati Generali (Rem Koolhaas) – check if completed and open

·       Palazzo della Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194 (Temporary shows)

·       Palazzo Merulana (Esquilino), Via Merulana 121.  Opened very recently and featuring 20th century Italian art.

CHURCHES

·       San Giovanni Decollato (Capitoline/Forum) – Church & Oratory (rarely mentioned), Via S. Giovanni Decollato, 22 – Ring buzzer at this address to get in (difficult)

·       Sant'Eligio degli Orefici (Campo dei Fiori / Via Giulia) - only church in Rome designed (partially) by Raphael

·     Regina Margherita Hospital & Church of San Cosimato (10th century) – Trastevere.  Try to get into the two cloisters going through the back of the entry courtyard to the hospital.

·     Cloister of San Giovanni (Chiostro della Confraternita di San Giovanni Battista di Genovesi), Via Anicia, 12 (Trastevere, see Rizzoli, p. 230).  Hours:  Tu & Th, 3:00 – 6:00 p.m.  Beautiful 15th century cloister.

·     Santa Maria Antiqua (Roman Forum) –some important early Christian frescoes.  NOTE: Re-opened, after extensive restorations, in 2016

·     Santi Luca e Martina, Via della Curia 2 (Roman Forum area) – designed by Pietro da Cortona  Hours unknown.  Currently never open.

·    Dio Padre Misericordioso/Jubilee Church (Richard Meier, architect), Tor Tre Teste district

·    Santa Barbara dei Librai (see Rizzoli, p. 184)

·    S. Stefano degli Abissini (Borgo, near the Vatican)

·    Santi Nereo ed Achilleo (nr Baths of Caracalla) - despite some apparently important early Christian art inside, appears to never be open except for weddings (usually Saturday mornings) or possibly for Sunday masses

·    San Teodoro (Palatine) – no information available, has ancient frescoes

·    Sant’ Urbano alla Caffarella (Appia Antica) – Su only 10:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. – best as part of Archeobus tour; important cycle of 11th century frescoes

OTHER PLACES

·       Oratorio of San Filippo Neri (next to the Chiesa Nuova on Via Vittorio Emanuele):  now a state library and meeting rooms.  In 2011 renovation work still going on, but has some important interior spaces.  Only open weekdays.

·       Walking tour around the Pantheon, See Rizzoli, p. 152ff

·       Explore the Pigneto district (new “hot” district, San Lorenzo already “discovered”) – To get there, Buses 81 or 810 from Piazza Venezia or Bus 105 from Termini

·       Explore the Ostiense district

·       Re-explore the Celian Hill

·       Testaccio Market (covered, best in Rome, new location at Via Luigi Galvani and Via Beniamino Franklin)

·       Mercato di San Lorenzo, Piazza degli Osci (San Lorenzo)

·       Mercato di Piazza Vittorio, via Filippo Turati (Esquilino)

·       Piazza Mattei (Ghetto):  The wonderful Fountain of the Turtles

·       Model residential city with easy access to the airport, by Richard Rogers (Magliana)

·     Mosque & Islamic Cultural Center, Via della Moschea 85, by Paolo Portoghesi (striking, contemporary), on the outskirts of Rome, a little to the west of the Villa Ada park

·     Interior of the Hotel Minerva (renovated by the important Italian architect/designer, Paolo Portoghesi)

·       Villa Madama (designed by Raphael), Government offices, located at Monte Mario, north west of city centre, near Olympic stadium. Advance reservation/permit absolutely required – it is suggested to make request at least 20 days in advance.  Send an e-mail request to info@arteincitta.it and provide names of visitors, passport numbers, dates of birth, and date/time being requested (weekdays only).

FOOD & DRINK (some have been tried but most are recommendations from the NY Times and travel publications).

·      Ristorante alla Rampa , side street near Amex – Spanish Steps

·      Settembrini, Via Settembrini 27 (Prati) - "Pasta nouvelle," moderate prices

·       Cul de Sac, Piazza Pasquino, 73 (near Piazza Navona) - excellent selection, very good light food, popular

·     Pastificio San Lorenzo, Via Tiburtina 196 (San Lorenzo) - Specializes in what Italians call "creative cuisine," moderate

·     Said, via Tiburtina, 135 (San Lorenzo).  Popular with students, industrial chic look.  Focus is on chocolate (try the hot chocolate)

·       Pommidoro, Piazza dei Sanniti 44 (San Lorenzo), San Lorenzo’s most famous restaurant; closed Saturday

·       Ciampini (lunch), Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 29

·       Pasticceria Dagnino, Galleria Esedra, Via Vitorio Emanuele Orlando, 75 (near Termini Station) - superb Sicilian bakery

·       Recafe, on Via della Croce, a few feet beyond Via del Corso towards the Augustus Mausoleum – pizza/Neapolitan – trendy, contemporary, upscale, mid-priced

·      Gusto, 9 Piazza Augusto Imperatore (under the passageway in taking the continuation of Via del Croce past Via del Corso towards the Augustus Mausoleum) Buffet, mid-priced, open daily, upscale in appearance

·       Osteria della Frezza, 16 Via della Frezza (near Ara Pacis), extensive cheese and wine selections, take-out and sit-down, very popular with young Romans

·       Pizzeria Minerva, next to the Pantheon

·       La Ciambella, via dell'Arco della Ciambella 20 (near the Pantheon) - creative cooking using local ingredients, moderately priced

·       Armando al Pantheon (recommended by Danny Meyer of Union Square Café, in Condé Nast Traveler, Oct. 2017, "well-priced")

·       Maccheroni, 44 Piazza delle Coppelle (near the Pantheon, open daily)

·       Tre Archi, Via dei Coronari 233 (nr Piazza Navona), inexpensive, 3-course prix fixe.  Closing day unknown

 ·       Bar-Caffeteria atop the Chiostro del Bramante (Bramante's Cloister), nr Piazza Navona - A delightful, hideaway nook

·       Alfredo e Ada, Via dei Banchi Nuovi, 14 (Piazza Navona area) – tiny, traditional, simple.  Closed weekends, no credit cards

·       Ristorante da Flammetta, Piazza Fiammetta, 10 (Piazza Navona area) - well-spiced pastas, personally recommended

·     Pizzeria Baffetto, via del Governo Vecchio, 114.  Very popular, pizzas made in wood-burning oven.

·     Roscioli, 21-22 Via Giubbonari (Campo dei Fiori)  Amongst the best spaghetti carbonara in Rome.

·     Dar Filettaro, Largo dei Librari, 88 - Same idea as Roscioli above; inexpensive but absolutely delicious sandwiches

·     Ristorante Boccoconone – Small, stylish, excellent two-course daily menu for 18€.  Near Santa Maria Maddalena (Pantheon)

·    Filetti di Baccala, Largo dei Librari, 88 (Campo de' Fiori), Best version of this famous Roman dish, closed Sunday and all of August; dinner only, inexpensive

·     Open Baladin, Via degli Specchi, 6 (Campo de' Fiori),  Serves dozens of craft beers from across Italy

·     Il Vinaietto, Via del Monte della Farina 38 (Campo de' Fiori),  Excellent, inexpensive, friendly, neighborhood wine bar

·     La Trattoria del Pallaro, Largo del Pallaro 15 (Camp de' Fiori), Excellent, personally recommended, moderate/expensive

·    Special Alta Gastronomia, Via de Balestrari, 34 (Campo de' Fiori), Excellent salads and sandwiches, very inexpensive

·    Hostaria Romana, Via del Boccaccio, 1 (Barberini).  Closed Sundays.  “Best antipasto in Rome.”

·    Il Bicchiere di Mastai, Via dei Banchi Nuovi 52 (wine bar, light meals, closed Monday)

·     Hostaria Nerone, Via Terme di Tito, 96 (near Nero’s Domus Aurea, closed Sunday)

·     Enoteca Corsi, Via del Gesù 87-88, excellent, inexpensive lunches

·     L'Arcangelo, 59-61 Via G. G. Belli (Prati),  (Amongst the best rigatoni all'amatriciani in Rome)

·    Enoteca "Provincia Romana", Largo del Foro Traiano 82-84 - Wine bar dedicated to wines and foods of Lazio, great views

·    Divinare, Via Aldo Manuzio, 13 (Celio)

·     Ristorante Sud, Via Antonio Bosio, 20a (nr. Via Nomentana).  Closing day not known.

·     Le Naumachie, Via Celimontana, 7 (Celio)

·     Café Café (Celio)

·     Osteria degli Artisti, (or Hosteria degli Artisti) 6 Via G. Sommeiller (Laterano, near Porta Maggiore) – inexpensive.  Looked for it and could not find, but when restaurants are closed and have no signs, it can be difficult to find.  No closing days.

·     Maharajah, Via dei Serpenti, 124 (Monti), inexpensive, but excellent, Indian food

·     L'Asino d'Oro, Via del Boschetto, 73 (Monti) - uniformly terrific reviews, great pasta, fixed-price lunch (Oct. 2017)

·     La Barrique, Via del Boschetto 41 (Monti), moderate, highly praised in a NY Times piece; M-Sa, 12:00 p.m. - 2:00 a.m.

·     La Bottega del Caffe, Piazza Madonna dei Monti, 5 (Monti), excellent bar to sit and relax

·    Vino Roma, Via in Selci 84/G (Monti), upscale wine atelier with tastings and other events

·    Tricolore, 126 Via Urbana (Monti) Terrific, hot new panini restaurant.

·     Cavour 313, Via Cavour 313 (Monti/Esquilino) – wine bar with simple plates – closed Sunday (only summer).  Open for lunch and dinner (after 7:30 p.m.)

·       Recommendations for the Pigneto neighborhood:

o   L’Infernotto Enoteca Ristorante, 31-33 Via del Pigneto

o   Il Tiaso Enolibvereria, 20 Via Perugia

o   Lo Yeti Libreria-Caffee, 4 Via Perugia

o   Osteria Que Se Magna, Via del Pigneto, 307A, Closed Sunday.  Very inexpensive.

o   Pigneto Quarantuno, Via del Pigneto, 41, Close Monday.  “Cool,” Low/Moderate priced

o   Primo, Via del Pigneto, 46 - casual, easy-going - try the fava puree topped with burrata

o   Rosti, Via Bartolomeo d'Alviano 65 - magnet for creative types and young families, casual

o   Birra Più, Via del Pigneto, 105 (Italian microbrews on tap)

·     Recommendations from the NY Times (June 6, 2010) for places in the Monti neighborhood that focus on local sourcing:

                   o   Urbana 37, Via Urbana 47 - serves only food and wine of the Lazio region, open 7 days/week

         o   Mia Market, Via Panisperna, 225 - organic cafe and food shop, serving only food exclusively from Lazio

         o   Enoteca Provincia Romana, Largo del Foro Traiano, 82/84 - a wine bar and food shop serving only food and wine from the Provincia di Roma, one of the five provinces of the Lazio region.  Closed Sunday.

·     Recommendations from the NY Times (June 4, 2017) for exciting places frequented by locals, some very trendy:

        o   Zia Rosetta, Via Urbana 4754 (Monti)

        o   Retrobottega, Via della Stelletta 4 (Campo Marzio)

        o   Piatto Romano, Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni 62 (Testaccio)

        o   Romeo Chef & Baker, Via Silla 26a (Aventine)

        o   Casa Manfredi, Viale Aventino 91/93 (Aventine) - very trendy

        o   Pro Loco, Via Bergamo 18 (Pinciano) - near MACRO Museum

·     Best pizzerias in Rome:

        o   Emma, Via Monte della Farina 28/29 (Centro, near Campo de' Fiori) - chic, innovative, light crust

                  o      Pizzarium, Via della Meloria 43  (Vatican, near Cipro-Musei Vaticani metro station)

                  o   Gatta Mangiona, 30-32 Via Federico Ozanam  (Janiculum, near Villa Doria Pamphilj)

                  o   Da Remo, 44 Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice (Testaccio)

                  o   Panificio Bonci, Via Trionfale 38 (Trionfale, north of the Vatican)

·     Cutting edge gelaterias featuring savory flavors (New York Times, December 29, 2013):

o   Come il Latte, Via Silvio Spaventa 24/26 (Quartiere Coppedè - Piazza Mincio) - standard flavors but topnotch

o   Vice, Via Fabio Massimo, 64

o   Gelateria Fatamorgana, 6 locations, including one near the Spanish Steps

o   Gelateria del Teatro, Lungotevere dei Vallati, 25 and Via del Coronari 65/66 (near Piazza Navona)

o   Il Gelato Bistrò, Circonvallazione Trionfale 11/13

o   Otaleg, Viale dei Colli Portuensi, 594

·      Trattoria  da Lucia, Vicolo del Mattonato 2b (Trastevere, near Orto Botanico) - highly recommended by an expert, simple, authentic

·       Popi Popi, Via delle Fratte di Trastevere (pasta and pizza)

·       Pianostrada Laboratorio di Cucina, Vicolo del Cedro 26 (Trastevere) - Tiny, inexpensive, excellent home-made paninis

·       Da Mario, Via del Moro 53 (Trastevere) – excellent food, cheapest prix fixe menu in Rome.  Closed Sunday

·       Da Enzo Trattoria, Via dei Vascellari 29 (Trastevere), no-frills but excellent, moderate price

·       Da I Due Ciccioni, Viccolo del Cedra, 3 (Trastevere), Closed Sunday.  Phone: 39-06-589-4480.  Moderate

·     Antico Arco, Piazzale Aurelio 7 (Janiculum) - innovative; new takes on pasta dishes

·       Citta del Gusto, Via Enrico Fermi 161 (Ostiense?) – a huge space celebrating Italian food and wine

·       Pizzeria Ostiense, Via Ostiense 56 (Ostiense) -- excellent wood-fired pizzas

·       Hopside, Via Francesco Negri 39 (Ostiense) -- Gastro pub, with Italian and imported craft beers on tap, Italian snacks

·       L’Acino Brillo, 2 Piazza S. Eurosia (Garbatella), Conde Nast “Hot Table” 2007, reasonable)

·      Porto Fluviale, Via del Porto Fluviale 22 (Testaccio) - a drinking-dining-snacking mecca across from the former Magazzini Generali

·       Sora Rosa, 7 Via Galileo Ferraris (Testaccio), simple Italian fare, cheap, popular, no ambience)

·     Flavio al Velavevodetto, 97-99 Via di Monte Testaccio (Testaccio, simple Italian fare, popular, busy, friendly, little English spoken; considered to have the best classic Roman pastas, which are exceedingly simple in concept but superbly made)

·     Pizzeria 00100, Via Giovanni Branca, 88 (Testaccio) - Specializes in a type called "trappizzini" by the slice, very popular

·     The Kitchen, 3M/N Via del Conciatori (between Ostiense & Testaccio), inexpensive lunch buffet

·      Da Bucatino, 84/86 via Della Robbia Luca 39 (Testaccio), very good, mid-priced

·      Ostria dell’Angelo, Via G. Bettolo 24 (near the Vatican, closed for Saturday lunch)

·      Il Gelato Bistro, Circonvallazione Trionfale 11/13 (Trionfale, north of the Vatican) - very interesting flavors, happy hour with "small bite" appetizers

·      Santo Palato, Piazza Tarquinia 4/A/B (San Giovanni) - "trattoria moderna", medium-priced

·      L’Archeologia, Via Appia Antica 139 (Appia Antica), inexpensive, excellent

·     Guida Ballerino, Large Appio Claudio 346 (Eastern end of the Metropolitana A line), somewhat expensive, innovative cooking

·      Mazzo, Via delle Rose 54 (Centocelle, beyond Pigneto) - innovative take on Roman cuisine, tiny, middle-range price

DAY AND OVERNIGHT EXCURSIONS

·       Orvietto [UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE Tentative List)

o   Civita di Bagnoregio (spectacular village near Orvieto)

·       Todi

·       Amelia

·       Cerveteri (Etruscan) (UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE)

·       Tarquinia (Etruscan) – paintings in the necropolis (UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE)

·       Norma and the Lepini Mountains

·       Villa Farnese in Caprarola, Piazzale Farnese 1 (11 miles southeast of Viterbo, 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m., closed Monday (Most splendid villa in northern Lazio)

·       Villa Lante, Bagnaia (2.5 miles east of Viterbo), 9:00 a.m. – 5:30 p.m. (not confirmed) – one of the finest gardens in central Italy

·       Ninfa – medieval town with villa with beautiful gardens (only open April - October)

·       Palestrina

·       Calcata (medieval hill town 30 miles north of Rome) – use Ferrovia Nord light rail to Saxa Rubra, then Cotral bus – check schedules and connections at the tourist office

·       Capo Circeo (Cape Circe) and the town of San Felice Circeo

·       Santa Severa - beach and castle.  Take northbound train from Stazione Roma Trastevere

·       Rieti and the Holy Valley of Rieti to visit 4 Franciscan hermitages related to the life of St. Francis