BroadheadBroadheadArrowsArroHeadSmal Broadheads, Small Game Heads, etc.

Small Game Heads

A selection of 100gr (except the Adder at 15gr) small game heads, from Left to Right:

• • Adder point - from Martin Archery - $.80 ea

  • Bludgeon - from Saunders - $1.50 each

  • Talon - from Red Feather Archery - $6 each

  • SGH - from G5 - $8 each

  • Judo - from Zwickey - $4 ea

The prices are what I pay at an local archery shop (except for the Talons which are online only). You may do better, but don't forget to factor in shipping.

Honestly, if you are shooting a bow setup for shooting Elk, all of these heads, (except the bludgeon), are going to blow through a rabbit as far as you can hit, and you better carry a cloth to wipe the blood off your arrow. None of them are going to anchor a Jackrabbit, so I recommend aiming for the eye - I don't think body shots are a good idea. Jacks are tough and they will make it back to their burrow.

Jackrabbit hunting results - heads rated from best to worst

• 1. Judo Point - The toughest and best value. Every bit as deadly on Jacks as the G5 SGH. A big plus is that you can count on them to stop your arrow in the brush. The only downside is they will put a nasty wound on a rabbit with a near miss.

  2. G5 SGH - Not as tough as they look, or the quality is spotty. And they are expensive. They will stop your arrow. They will put a very nasty hole through a rabbit. They fly true.

  3. Bludgeon - The best value for something not designed by Freddy Kruger. They will stop your arrow. They won't rip open a rabbit on a near miss. Not enough on game experience to say anymore ( I missed).

  4. Adder point - Dirt cheap. Cost is their single best point, otherwise they're pretty lame. They won't stop your arrow from doing the submarine in the grass.

  5. Talon - They are over-priced and under performing. They won't stop your arrow in the brush/grass. They will blow a relatively small hole through the critter. And they cost more than a cheap broadhead.

I've used the Judo points for years - probably the best head for general walk-and-shoot practice. Very tough. The only way I could bend the arms was to bury it into a hard stump. When I finally cut it out, I just bent the arms back. On game performance for small game ( ground squirrels and Jackrabbits) is outright nasty with entrails pulled out, skulls sheared - stuff Quentin Tarantino would love. I watched my son pull off a 74yd shot - they fly true.

The G5 Small Game Head (sgh) generates a lot of excitement amongst forum archers. They are expensive enough that few people have actually used them on Jackrabbits, etc. But they look cool, are constructed of a machined SS forging, and have blade-like arms that you can sharpen like a chainsaw chain. But they aren't as tough as a Judo. I had one SGH break off at the arrow insert - something I've never experienced with a Judo point.

The Talon is an interesting creation from Red Feather Archery. It looks to be machined from high-carbon bar stock and then heat-treated for toughness. If so, it is the strongest tip I've ever used. My guess is that it would enable someone with a 30lb bow to make a very good kill on a big Jack out past 40 yards. However, don't count on it to stop and "tip up" your arrow like a Judo point - you will lose arrows.

The Bludgeon is probably the best head to use to get immediate incapacitation. Still going to put a hole in a bunny at 20yds with the 300fps arrow speed, but at longer distances you should get a quick blunt-force-trauma kill. I blew a 25yd shot on a Jack with this head somehow, so I've yet to whack something with it.

The Adder point is a step up from the plain washer trick. The main benefit to the Adder is cost.

A small Jack taken with the G5 SGH.