Hand warmer

Overview

I was looking for a hand warmer that would last at least 6 hours, producing decent heat the entire time, for duck hunting. This eliminated chemical heaters because even the best of them produce diminishing heat after 2 hours. I didn't give an honest look at battery-powered warmers.

There is really only one warmer readily available in America - Zippo. There are other fuel-type hand warmers, but they are either not easily purchased, (ebay relics or Chinese wonder devices), or they don't have US retailers.

This write up is my experience with the Zippo hand warmer.

Warning and Disclaimer

The Zippo hand warmer uses flammable liquids for fuel. There is a significant fire danger involved and you need to be careful (and know what you are doing) when handling fuels and ignition sources. So if you are a moron, you can get injured if your luck runs out. Vapors pool, open fuel containers explode, etc. If you don't understand what I'm talking about then stick to chemical warmers. I'm not going to write a treatise on safe liquid fuel handling, nor am I responsible for your boo-boos. Millions of people use these devices without burning down their houses, or ending up in the hospital burn unit - so they are not inherently unsafe.

What they are and aren't

These are hand warmers. They are sized to be held in your hand. They are not flexible and they require an air supply - so they won't work down your boot.

They don't produce many BTU's - they won't melt a plastic bag. They are not a substitute for a portable heater. They produce enough heat to make you feel a little better when it is cold, whether by warming your hands or warming your core a little.

They weigh something, so they are unlikely favorites of gram weenies. But they can help with the comfort level when sleeping in the cold (last longer than a water bottle). They will run on Naptha and Alcohol, which are common cold weather backpacking fuels.

They run 10-14 hrs) at a constant heat output on ~20mil of fuel (1 oz = 29.6mil). A lot of cold-weather gloves have built-in pouches for them.

They require an air supply or they will go out. They "combust" with a catalytic reaction. But they consume so little oxygen, and produce so little byproducts that asphyxiation or poisoning is very unlikely and unheard of (at least I've never read an account of an incident).

Two different models out there

L->R, 2012 and earlier model, 2014+ model

L->R, 2012 Fuel measure cup, 2014+ fuel measure cup - A 12hr fill is about 22mil

There are two versions available at the time of this writing:

• 1. 2012 and earlier - Solid felt wick that is difficult to fuel. Retailers are unloading these for $9.99. They come in black, hunter orange and Chrome.

  2. 2014 and later - Same basic body but with a hole down the center of the felt wick to make fueling much, much faster with less spillage. Typically sell for $17.99. Only available in Chrome.

All versions have loose fitting covers. All come with a really stupid warning label that holds the two halves together and requires soaking in fuel to remove. And all have a rounded bottom so that it is impossible to stand up.

Fuels

I have use 3 fuels:

• • Ronsonol lighter fluid - $2 for 5oz (40 cents per ounce), Naphtha - a little bit of odor while running, comes in handy little bottle with spout. The lid can be popped off and the bottle refilled.

  • Coleman Camp Stove and Lantern Fuel - $13 for 1 gallon (10 cents per ounce), Naphtha - almost no odor. Need a funnel to transfer from gallon can.

  • SLX Denatured Alcohol - $15 for 1 gallon (12 cents per ounce), 50/50 mix of Ethanol/Methanol - Has a noticeable odor but I can't tell if it is formaldehyde or unburned alcohol.

The three fuels above deliver about the same run time and about the same heat output. But none of these measurements were controlled, i.e. I didn't put a temperature logger on the warmer body and run it in a controlled environment. I just watched the clock periodically and held it in my hand.

I didn't bother to read the MSDS on Ronsonol and Coleman, so I don't know the differences in "naphtha", naphtha being a generic term. They seem to be of the same weight, same smell, same color. I have read forum-chatter that you should stay away from the Coleman fuel that has a blue tint, but I have no 1st hand experience.

Obviously Coleman Camp fuel is the cheapest and my testing shows that it runs just fine. "fine" means that it lights, delivers heat, doesn't stink, and gives you a long run time.

Tips

A butane lighter is the best way to light one. A paper match likely won't burn long enough.

A syringe that will hold 20 mil would speed up fueling the earlier model and make transferring from a large container easier.

I fuel my warmers with a 12 hour fill (~20 mil) and then place them in a ziplock freezer bag. They don't evaporate and they're ready when I want them.

I light my warmers at home before heading out to my duck hunting area. So maybe they are running an hour before I need them. But this way I'm not fumbling with a lighter in the wind and cold.

I cut a couple holes in the felt bag partly to have some hot spots for when my hands are super cold and partly to improve air flow.

I use a duck call lanyard and hang the warmer around my neck. Works best for me since I'm usually wearing neoprene chest waders.

I stuff the warmers in my waders so the end of the warmer has an air path. I'm pretty sure that when people complain about them "going out" it is either because they didn't put enough fuel in them or they smothered them.

I just stuff them in my front jean pocket without the felt bag.

I extinguish the burners by placing them in the ziplock and squeezing out the air. They don't get hot enough to melt the plastic.

Summary

They work. Both generation work fine, but the newest is easier to fuel. I get an honest 10 - 14 hrs of heat with a "12 hour" fill. They are "nice to have" when sitting around waiting for action.