Sugarbun Area

Treefall has been severe in the Sugarbun vicinity. Chainsaw Willie has done quite a bit of work there, clearing things up; thank you.

After an advanced climber took an injury fall on the offwidth thing to the left of Annabelladonna, she placed a bolger up there.

The thirty meter Live Oak tree, to the right or SW of Divergence, was ascended @ 5-10 (does tree climbing have rock ratings?) in April, 2021, to the very top, where a sling and 'biner were placed for future climbers. 60cm, or longer, slings can be used to wrap the tree or branches for protection. Let's call this "Sugarbun's Great Live Oak".

The north side of Sugarbun, "Annabelladonna", 5-12, 4 bolts/hangers.

The east face of Sugarbun, starting on Make That Move - -, is "The Sound of Perserverance", 5.11R. It's located between "Make that Move" and the "East Crack" going more or less straight up the center of the slab that makes up most of the eastern side of the 'Bun. To climb the route, start on "Make that Move Now Baby" and instead of going over the roof after the third bolt, traverse out right around it. Clip the bolt (long runner?) and keep traversing right on a sloping ledge to a good stance and another bolt. The route continues straight up from here. Just after the last bolt is the crux. Throw for the arete as high up as possible then climb up it to the anchors. Route specs; 9 bolts/hangers, two 5.11 cruxes, one at the first bolt, one at the last. F.A. Chad Suchoski, Jason Poncy (3-03-07).

The south face of Sugarbun. Purple X's is "Hard Rock Candy", 5-11a/b, takes off from Fingerlock; small gear & draws. Red X's is "Tippy Toes", 5-12+, tiny edges.

The south face of the rock to the southeast of the above routes. Blue route is "Heart of Sharpness", 5-9, gear (a little difficult to place on the ramp portion). Red route, unknown name or grade, is some horrendous thing and it appears that some hangers were removed from it.

To the southwest of Sugarbun, is Left Over Bun.

In the photo below, The Breadstick is the huge block that makes the top of the diagonal crack in the SW face. On the Breadstick's SE face are several variations; the far left route, which moves over the left edge for a couple moves, is 5-11; close to but not stepping over the edge is 10a; a little left of the bolger line is 9; just to the right of the bolger line is 8. Over in the moss is "CM's Knee Project", 5-4 or so because of growth, otherwise about 5-2. There are two more bolgers out to the left of the climber, as the route goes left, down a bit, then back up the finishing block.

At the south corner of the southwest face, is "Belly Roll Arch", 5-11a/b. Very difficult to toprope, unless you're good at pendulums to place draws and gear. Needs two #4 cams, a #3cam, and a #2 cam in the start crack.

Farther up to the northwest, left of Belly Roll Arch, is "Divergence" (original name unknown), 5-9 RX or TR. Bolts/hangers were chopped, except for those on the very difficult face route to the chimney's right. Would be really nice to get rid of the chockstone in the chimney.

The east face of the rock SW of Sugarbun's Fingerlock, is Snappy's Face, and has "Snappy's Squeek", 5-8, which climbs to the right of the 4 bolgers. "Squeekier" climbs to the left of the bolts/hangers and is 10a/b. In spite of appearance, routes to the right of Snappy's Squeek are a bit harder than they look. An anchor will be placed where the small red "x" is, up top.

This is the northwest face of Leftover Bun, seen if you were standing at the base of Annabelladonna and about 25m to your right, or 3/4 o'clock. Access to the top anchors is on the opposite side of the rock from this photo. Work around a bulge, then ascend to the anchors using the oak tree.

A and B are nearly pure fiction slab routes, 10a or so.

C. Little Snake. Ascends the two faces then finishes on the small S-dike at the top. 10a/b.

D. Serrated. Ascends the sharp edge to its top, then steps out onto the main tower near its top, finally stepping across to the anchor area. 7, 8, or 9.

E. From inside the passage, ascend the curving crack/dihedral to the directional anchor. 8.

F. An extra route. Moderate face climbing. 10 something.

G. Ascends the major crack on somewhat sparse holds. 8.

H. Corner by Edge by Tip. Ascend the face and corner, pulling right onto the tower's left edge when you can, finish to the tip, and step across to the anchors.

I. Caveworm. Start alongside a very small oak tree (please leave it alone - it's not in the way of climbing), ascend the short block, then the mossy face (cleaned just enough to make it work), then tunnel up through and to the anchors. 7 or 8.

J. Mas Grande. On the west face of Leftover Bun. A quite sustained lower section with the start in a difficult dead-vertical face. If you can make two moves and get the "tongue", the climbing eases to 12a/b. Felt to be 12c in April, 2018. Heavy moss on the upper slab will be cleaned by editor or others, given someone with the ability wants to give this a serious whirl.