Split Rock

The last big rock you reach before getting to the base of main Sugarloaf, is Split Rock, and is unmistakable when you see the major crack / chimney which goes all the way through the rock. Editor plans to camouflage some of the shiny new hangers during 2021.

At the lowest and southwest corner is A) "TriTip Split Roast", 9. One of the tips is now a platform, as the loose 300# block that made that tip was sent off.

After the 5th bolt/hanger, the climbing is runout on 5-2 climbing. Take a long sling to place over the tip of the rock, to protect the delicate stand-up move; you could use the chimney top anchors, but taking a fall while making that move would be injurious. Clip across the split before figuring out how to make the move. In the upper portion, stay out a little left on the steeper face to maintain the climb's quality. Unless you have a 70m rope, this one is difficult to TR. About 12 bolts/hangers.

A couple of confluent routes have been bolt/hangered in, where the "B" arrow points. One route starts on a block to the right of B's arrow and climbs up 11a; the other starts down in the hold, chimneys up, goes up face to left, then onto the main face right, 10c or so. The upper face is common to both and is runout easy for 6m.

In the chimney itself is B) "Chim-Chiminey", 5-7R/X. Editor recommends that a solid 5-9 leader do the lead. The first bolt/hanger is way up, and a fall just below it would result in serious injury on the jagged rocks at the bottom of the chimney. 3 bolts/hangers. Top anchors placed later. It could be that the three-bolt set might become a four-bolt set, so that a 5-7 leader could give the climb a whirl. There's a plan to establish Veemney, which will start/end at the very west/east end of the chimney, ascned to the topmost single anchor, then down the other end.

Next uphill is C) "Fossilmax", 10b/c (the original FA was made by Ron Brown, old fossil, maxed out at 5-9, and on Fosamax). When put up, the route was

5-9, however, a flake at the bottom, which was in-cut on top, was broken or pried off, making the starting move much harder now (10b). About 8 bolts/ hangers.

Next uphill is D) "Prime Rib", also 10b, because of a hard start (a small 5-8 starting edge was broken off when cleaning), followed by 8+ or 9 climbing.

About 8 bolts/hangers.

Not shown, and 5m to the left of Prime Rib, is "Noudle Stolgan's Veeny", 10a. Mostly 8 climbing, crux is three quarters of the way up, and the start is

hard 9.

On the north nose is "Bulbosity", 5-6, which is frequently used to access the top anchors for toproping the numerous other climbs. After several years of use, a toxic mold destroyed the route and stole the hangers, except for the first one, which the mold managed to just smash up, creating an ugly scene. The route was re-bolted with pound-ins. Four bolts/hangers.

Moving steeply down the east side, to access the routes on the southeast face, are three routes sharing the same start.

The route on the southeast corner is A) "Jerk Tartly Arete", 5-12, Aidan Maguire. About 5 bolts/hangers.

Then next route is B) "ROOO" (Route Of Obscure Origin, probably 60's era), which was originally bolted with 1/4" pound-ins. Two of the old pound-ins were left in place for their historical interest while one of those removed was pulled out by mere finger strength. About 6 bolts/hangers.

Next left was C) "V-Pie", 11a, which traversed very delicately down and left, made a difficult transition (crux) onto the face, straight up to top anchors. After several years of climbs, a fecal bacterium destroyed the route and stole the hangers. There are plans to re-create the route with pound-ins, as it was a unique and enjoyable route.

There is a possibility for a semi-girdle route that would continue left from the V-pie transition.