Lost John and Flathead

Various routes have been established on both Lost John and Flathead. Most of those routes were established twenty years ago or more. Recently, a bunch of new routes and anchors have been added on Lost John, although most of the new routes are on the harder side.

EAST OR SOUTHEAST FACE

01: No known name, how about “Yellow Streak”, 12a, 3 bolgers, chain anchors not readily accessible from above.

02: East End Lost John Joint, 9, TR. A little dicey to access top anchors, either by reaching across from the north wall, or by scrambling up and around on the

other side. Nice long chimney.

03: The Inside Line, 10a, TR

04: Bulge Battle By Finny Finish, 11b, TR. Hard start then finish up the fin.

05: Square Slot, 10a, TR. Left corner crack 11, right corner crack 10b. Chimney 9 or 10a. Can also stem with back to wall.

06: Sniff This Straight Line, 10a/b, TR. The variant curving undercling is a mighty strenuous bouldery start.

07: Mix and Match, 10b, TR.

08: The Greenward Way, 6, TR.

08: The Greenward Way, 6, TR.

09: Contrivity, 7, TR.

10: Slot Fighter, 10b/c, TR.

11: The Gap, 10a/b, TR.

12: Slab Center, 8, TR. Starting blocks are bouldery.

13: Cave Dweller, 9/10a, TR. Start in the bottom of the cave and use some sort of chimney technique. Hint: belly crawling hasn't worked for anybody, yet.

The face above offers few good holds for hands or feet.

SOUTH AND SOUTHWEST FACES

The aqua lines are routes of old. Names unknown by editor. They range 8 to 10; the cracks are mossy and slippery in 2020.

The red lines are new routes with new anchors as of 2020.

1: Archy, 7/8. Not quite as much angle to anchors as photo suggests. TR but might go with gear.

2: Hard Roofing, 10d/11a. TR.

3: Moderate Roofing, 10c+/-. TR.

4: ROOO-A (Route Of Obscure Origin), name unknown, 9/10 TR.

5: ROOO-B, name unknown, 9, gear or TR. Mossy.

6: ROOO-C, name unknown, 10+. TR.

7: ROOO-D, name unknown, 9, gear or TR. Mossy.

8: ROOO-E, name unknown, 10+. Pretty thin face.

9: ROOO-F, name unknown, 9/10. Far right, knobs make it a bit easier.

10: John's Lost Cave of Gold, 10/11. Many variations, all really good routes, mostly TR, with gear possibilities.

11: Lost John's Dingy, 11a start is on a small platform, to left, behind the oak. Editor missed placing a red line for the harder start, 11b, which

is 4m below and right of the left start, under the red X. Just below the Dingy, and above, the route goes on gear, with knob ties on the upper face. There

is a hard variation start over to the right, gaining and following a sloper ledge that is TR only.

12: Lost John's Middle Bulge, 11. Move right with good hands, hard move over the Bulge, then into the crack. TR variation, although gear placement is

possible even in the horizontal section.

13: The Gold Wall, 11. It's a work in progress, 2020. After climbing the groove, one meets a thin, barely-get-fingers crack for 3m before getting a good flake

assembly. To work on it, lower from the "Dingy" anchors and tie a couple of knobs for directionals.