Media Table
Having committed to joining the large TV community, I wanted to make sure it had a proper media table to be placed on. I wasn't a big fan of the styles readily available at IKEA, etc., and certainly didn't feel like spending a fortune on something that looked good but still didn't quite suit the simplistic look I wanted. So how better to solve all these problems at once than designing and building one myself?
The overall design was driven by TV size, and size of computer and stereo I wanted to fit on the lower level. The construction would be similar to the Kitchen Table: joined strips of poplar to make the surfaces, with a box frame underneath to mount the legs and keep the surface distortion to a minimum.
I like using poplar because of the green tints and mix of light and dark.
Fortunately I had access to a well equipped wood shop at the time, with a quality drill press, handheld belt sander, and as many clamps of all lengths and types.
I may have gone a bit overboard with preventing a recurrence of the table surface splitting that the kitchen table developed by pinning the planks together with dowls every 12 inches or so.
All planks glued and clamped together for the first table surface.
After sanding, such a satisfying step, especially when you have such a powerful belt sander to do the hard work for you!
Laying out all the parts before drilling dowel holes
Frame parts are located with dowels, ensuring strong connection but also repeatable assembly before gluing
frame pieces are positively located on the table surface using dowels, ensuring a strong joint and that the frame does not shift while gluing.
Next came the most stressful part: while dry-fitting the lower frame to the lower table surface, I traced out the footprint of each leg, and cut the four square holes for the legs to pass through. This was also the point where I had to commit to which was going to be the lower one.
Unlike the kitchen table, I didn't want the fasteners holding the legs to the upper frame to be visible from the outside. So rather than drilling a through-hole and pressing in a pronged T-nut, I drilled a blind hole and screwed in a threaded insert. The pull-out strength may not be as good as a T-nut, but then again it doesn't need to be.
With all dowels placed, clearance holes for the legs cut, it was time to glue the frame together and glue it to the table surface at the same time, so that the frame would still line up with the dowel holes in the table surface. The large quantity of clamps available to use was very much appreciated at this step!
Drilling the fastener holes in the top of the legs
Pattern of holes for lower table support pegs to allow for adjustable height
Fully assembled table before varnishing. Few textures feel as nice as freshly fine-grit-sanded smooth unfinished wood surfaces!
Many thin coats of Tung oil finish
Finished product!
