Sun-Ringle Mulefut 50SL wheels are going into a fatbike for summer use. Hubs are Novatec 197mm rear and 150mm front.
Nextie Jungle Fox carbon rims. Wheelsmith DB14 spokes and Sapim black brass securelock nipples hold it all together.
The wheel business was steady over the summer and as fall approaches, so does fatbike season. These wheels are for a repeat customer that is putting together a Ritchey Commando. The 80mm Borealis rims are laced to Salsa hubs to match the Commando's 135/170mm dropout spacing. Sapim Race spokes and DT Swiss ProLock brass nipples hold everything together.
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I've started the dreadful task of preparing for tax filing. It's given me a chance to realize that 2015 was Blueline's best year yet! Thank you for the support.
After tallying my wheel building data, I learned that I built fifty-two wheels in 2015. Maybe not high volume, but enough to keep me busy and allow me to continue to fine tune my methods and skills.
Here's a link to my photo album on Google+. I try to post pictures of every wheel build for future reference.
The customer ordered Nextie Wildcat rims and unfortunately the Wildcat is not angle drilled and Nextie doesn't advertise that it won't work with the flange spacing of the 135/190 hubs. The large bracing angle of the spokes in the 190 hub led to deformation around the spoke holes before the spokes were even close to final tension.
Nextie sent a 50mm wide replacement but I soon discovered that the carbon layup on the inside was not smooth, causing the spoke nipples to be misalinged.
The rim pictured is from Light-Bicycle, spokes are Wheelsmith DB14 in black and nipples are Sapim Secure lock brass in silver. The customer decided he'd had enough with Nextie and went with Light-Bicycle. Finally, I was able to get a wheel built without having any problems.
The bracing angle created by the large flange spacing paired with the carbon rim resulted in a super stiff wheel.
Once the replacement Nextie arrives for the front wheel, I hope to get this customer riding.
This front wheel turned out just as nice as the rear wheel. Spoke tension was very even and I'm confident that the customer will enjoy many years of trouble free service from these wheels.
I selected Wheelsmith DB14 spokes and Wheelsmith brass nipples for this wheel. The corrosion resistance offered by the brass nipples should help minimize the harmful affects of road salt that this bike is sure to encounter during winter riding. My friends at Wheel Fanatyk offer Wheelsmith products at great prices.
The Surley Marge Lite rim has two rows of thirty-two spoke holes to accommodate offset lacing. As seen above, lacing the wheel with all the spokes in line offsets the rim and tire to the non-drive side and creates chain clearance around the fat tire. Surly has detailed lacing instructions on their website. For a symmetrical wheel, you would lace side-to-side using alternating spoke holes. Click here to see my symmetrically laced front wheel.
I really like these DT Swiss 10mm thru bolts for the stiffness they add to the rear triangle and the extra bit of clamping pressure they offer that you can't get from a standard quick release.
The DT Swiss thru bolt also has the added benefit of fitting nicely through the Surly Tuggnut I will be using on the drive side drop out.
wheelbuilding book and it includes instructions on page 18. Just as Roger describes, the Surly spacer is 35mm long, or two times the Pugsley offset of 17.5mm.
Maybe you've read this far and you're wondering if there are allowances for offset when calculating spoke lengths? The answer is yes. I tried to simplify the method I used in this short tutorial. For you engineering types, please forgive me for not including the mathematical explanation.
Once you've got the spoke lengths and offset lacing figured out, Roger's standard wheelbuilding procedure applies.
Regarding spoke tension, these rims are thick and over built in my opinion. As the spokes approach final tension, there is different feedback through the spoke wrench than with a standard mountain bike wheel. Based on this feel, I ended up with a final tension slightly less than I would use with a standard mountain bike wheel. Sorry, I can't offer a scientific explanation regarding this "feel". It's something I've developed from experience. Here is the (mostly) finished complete bike, now for some snow!!
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