The Neaps or West Banks

[Neep or Noup, meaning a peak shaped headland]

From the hill-grind we were able to follow a hill-gaet for a short way up the hill. We saw the remains of peat banks and bare patches of hill ground where peat mould had been gathered in mouldie-coose then used for bedding cattle in the byre. As we climbed higher Yell Sound, Fethaland and the Ramna Stacks came into view. The sixereens sailed from Fethaland to the Far Haaf and the waters off Fethaland were popular fishing grounds for the sixareen crews. North Roe was opposite us and Sullom Voe to the south. The flare stack at Sullom can be seen as can tankers coming and going to the oil terminal.

On the other side of the hill bonxies made their presence felt while we walked down towards the banks. They breed in this area and people tried to save their heads from the birds by putting their scarf or jacket on a staff and holding it high above their heads as the birds will dive at the highest part of the body. Luckily it was not nesting time and the birds kept their distance.

Before we reached the Neaps we passed the Wester Lochs, the Mill Loch, Virdi Water and Cro Loch with a sheep cro and sheep wash beside it. A small bridge was built over the burn flowing from the lochs of Virdi and Cro Waters.

The Wester Lochs

Chas said the distant West Banks used to be frequented by men looking to secure timber from the sea. If any was found in an accessible place to be salvaged it was dragged ashore and then at a later date, when it had dried, it was cut to a size to be carried home. Birds’ eggs were collected and seals were hunted as the area was a principle haunt of seals. He had plenty of knowledge about the islands and rocks to keep me captivated all the way. This is what he told me.

To the north of Fethaland lie the Ramna Stacks [Raven Stacks] and Gruney Isle. Grey Seals had a pupping site on Gruney where the pupping occurred away from the sea on the main slope of the isle. During war time the Ramna Stacks were used as a ship shore gunnery range.

The Ramna Stacks

In this remote area there are some spectacular cliffs and rocks to be seen and many cliffs are sheer and very dangerous especially to anyone unacquainted with the area. As we walked along we marvelled at the fabulous coastal scenery while we identified the stacks and geos. West of Bouster stands Swinna Stack. It has a natural arch. Further south is the Birrier where there was once an early monastery which was reached by a land-bridge. There is a defensive stone wall on the landward side behind which are fourteen rectangular buildings with slightly bowed sides and rounded corners. The ruins can be seen from the seaward side. Between the Loch of Birriesgarth and the cliffs are the remains of a burnt mound. There is a waterfall at Millburn Geo but after having little rain we did not see it at its best.

We followed the wild and rugged shore northward and soon we were at Eigg.