Specific Hike Details

Region #1: Hiking in the Appenzells.

Wandermap.net (topog map and route tracing. Ebenalp in Appenzell near Wasserauen

Switzerland's Appenzell is a region whose forte is cow culture rather than staggering peaks. Its only famous peak,

Säntis, is a modest 8,200 feet high. For a fun angle on alpine culture, go five miles south of Appenzell town to Wasserauen. Ride the lift (or hike) to the top of nearby Ebenalp. From its summit, enjoy a sweeping view of a major chunk of Switzerland. Then hike down about 15 minutes to a prehistoric cave home (its tiny museum is always open). Wander in and through until you reach a narrow, sunny ledge. Perched here is the Wildkirchli, a 400-year-old cave church that housed hermit monks from 1658 to 1853.

Nearby is :

Berggasthaus Aescher, 071-799-1142: CH=9057 weissbad AI oder 071 799 14 49 info@aescher-ai.ch,

a 170-year-old guest house built precariously into the cliff. Originally a hut housing farmers, goats, and cows, it evolved into a guest house for pilgrims coming to the monks for spiritual guidance. Today, Berggasthaus Aescher welcomes tourists, offering cheap dorm beds and hot, hearty plates of

Rösti. The guest house has only rainwater and no shower. Friday and Saturday nights sometimes have great live music, but are often crowded and noisy, with up to 40 people, and parties going into the wee hours. Monday through Thursday you'll normally get a small, woody dorm to yourself. The hut is actually built into the cliff; its back wall is the rock itself. From the toilet, you can study this alpine architecture. Sip your coffee on the deck, sheltered from drips by the gnarly overhang 100 feet above. A fun drawer is filled with an alpine percussion section, and the piano in the comfortable dining/living room was brought in by helicopter. Leave a note in the guest book, which goes back to 1940. It's run by Claudia and Beny Knechtle-Wyss and their five children. They also keep 35 sheep, 20 rabbits, five chickens, three pigs, and a dog.

• 3-min video of Berggasthaus-Aescher, interview with Familie Beny & Claudia Knechtle-Wyss
• Great pictures of the area including picture #8 (where we’re staying on night #1)
• Details of the Berggasthaus Aescher (very good read)
• 170 years old. 3 dorm rooms, 1 toilet, no shower, water collected from cistern. Great Roesti, wurst and view.

(July 27): hike up from Wasserauen to the Berggasthaus-Aescher.