Although rocks from the outside can give clues about their internal anatomy, the only real way to know is to whack it open with a rock hammer or saw it with diamond blade. Using a chisel or rock hammer to split a stone can be helpful in the field as a way of checking what you have, but once you crack it, you may ruin it!
Rocks can look dull and unappealing on the outside, but may surprise you when cut and polished!
Compared to saws that cut wood or metal, rock saws can be expensive. Anything that is tied to "lapidary" tends to be that way. I suppose two things are at work here, 1) The number of manufacturers and number of consumers of rock saws are an order of magnitude smaller that wood or metal buyers. As a specialty item, the costs are higher as these boutique manufacturers have lower volume and higher overhead costs per machine. 2) Anyone selling rock tools to the hobbyist knows that there is a special drive/desire on the part of the consumer who may be willing to pay more to get the tool they want! If you take a tile saw, for example, that works just as well on rocks as it does tile and sell it as a lapidary device you will see the price go from $100 to $300 with little change in the function or utility of the tool!
Tile saws pull water from a tray under the blade and spew a spray onto the blade and rock and you! I mounted a old paint brush on the top of my saw that covers the blade. This keeps the spray under control and it allows me to use the saw without the blade cover. The blade cover that comes with the saw makes it hard to see close work. I also added a piece of plastic around the blade on the table (blackish square on the table) that allows for a zero or near zero clearance between the blade and table. If you don't do that and want to cut small pieces of stones for jewelry, then they can fall in the crack and sometimes jam the blade. I also made a dike around the edge of the saw to contain the water so it doesn't drip off the sides, but rather into the slot. I used some plastic molding and just glued it to the table.
The only think I have to do after each use is to make sure the tray under the blade is empty of water. If you leave water touching a typical diamond blade, it will rust in a matter of hours/days. I use an aquarium tube to siphon the water into a jug. To start the siphon I don't suck on it, but rather use a syringe to pull the initial stream through the tube. Rocks contain all sorts of minerals that may be toxic, so I don't much like getting that slurry in my mouth!
Rock saws come in all sorts of sizes and prices. You can spend anywhere from $1000 to$10,000 on a new rock saw that have blades from 6 to 36 inches in diameter. One rule about the size of rock saw, you will always want a bigger one, so buy the biggest you can afford!
I have an 18 inch Royal rock saw that was built in the 1950's in Portland, Oregon. I bought it from a fellow who was retiring from the hobby for $600. I think I must be about the 4th owner. People hang onto these things and are reluctant to let them go. Rock saws retain their value over time and can be repaired or reconditioned to a point that the outcome will match whatever you could buy new. If I had to buy the saw I have new I would probably shell-out $5000 or more to get the features this machine has. Have I spent time fixing it? Yes. The fellow I got it from put new bearings on the blade axle. If these are sloppy then the blade wobbles and can cause problems cutting.
The automatic feed mechanism is critical to the operation of the saw. As the motor dives the blade it can also drive a worm gear that pulls the rock toward the cutting action. Some saws, like mine, have a separate motor to drive the worm gear. The worm gear attaches to the rock vice with a "split nut." This is an interesting mechanical device that clamps on the thread and pulls the vice forward. To move the vice manually, you split that nut and disengage the threads. Sometimes this mechanism wears out and needs to be rethreaded. I've done it once thus far in 10 years of use.
I rewired the thing as it was built without a ground on the 110 volt lines. I also added an additional switch. Two switches are a must when you have your lid off. A simple mistake of tripping a switch and having the blade spin with the top off can cause oil to fly all over and make a terrific mess!
I really dislike cleaning the saw. It is messy and replacing oil can be pricey. So, I discovered a way to clean the saw as it s cutting.
Here is an update on the previous video. It turns out that I do care about the oil left in the bags after all!
There are several folks who have studied the diamond blade and favor one style over another (notched or sintered). Generally the thicker the blade, the more stable it is and less likely to warp or bend. If you are cutting rough stuff and don't care about how wide the kerf is you can buy a blade that is tough, reasonable and long lasting like this agate eater.
Good quality blades are relatively thin kerfed, have diamonds embedded in the metal and the steel is resistant to bending. You get what you pay for, so the better quality blade will run quieter, smoother and with less tool marks on the rock. Some have gaps on the edge that are advertised to reduce heat.
Notched blades are either pressed into the blade in ridges or pads with diamonds are welded to the blade. These green blades are like chainsaws in rock. They have wide kerfs, are noisy, and leave lots of marks on the rock.