"With the new consciousness today in heritage as a resource and a healthy environment for living and recreation, people in and outside San Juan are realizing the value of the town’s ancestral houses even while markets from Manila now discover its beach resorts in the countryside. Considering the potentials of the town and then looking back on itself, discerning townspeople are grateful that the heritage houses remain as aesthetic monuments of the town and that the proposed industrial start at one time (the copper smelter plant project) that would have polluted the coast and countryside did not happen."
Leon M. Mayo
The San Juan Nepomuceno Church
"San Juan Nepomuceno Parish Church is a colonial-era church dedicated to the town's patron saint. The parish began in 1843 in the old town called Pinagbayanan. The original church was made of palm, bamboo, and coconut lumber. A bell tower was attached to the building between 1928 and 1935."
philippinefaithandheritagetours.com
"The belfry was erected several years after the main church edifice was built following the move to transfer the the town from its old site, Pinagbayanan. The heirs of the Marasigan-Mercado clan allowed the church to display the historic bell in an arch after a ceremony on June 11, 2016."
The Historic Marker
Kapitan Leon Quizon Mercado did not use a single nail in the construction of his home.
THE BUILDER
Around the years 1910 – 1920, Capitan Leon Mercado, a Katipunero, constructed his house in San Juan’s Bagumbayan. Most of the Yakal and Ipil wood from Laiya provided the main posts and framing for the house. Today, many are amazed at how the Capitan, who without any training in Architecture and Engineering, could manage to put the huge intricate house together.
Apart from the first class hardwood used for the framing, flooring, walls, jambs and window sills, the narra calado and valance carvings were ordered from Tampinco of Pampanga. The azotea tiles and exterior precast work including the twin lion statues at the entrance porch were supplied by Machuca of Manila. The heavy wrought iron fence and gates were fabricated by the best foundries in Manila. The toilet walls and floors used imported decorative Belgian tiles and the toilet fixtures consisted of fine ceramic wares from America. The chandeliers and ceiling lights were European, probably French made.
The house exterior was painted a radical Spanish royal rose embellished with cream colored borders and trims. The interior was a combination of varnish and bright paintwork. To many, an outstanding feature of the Capitan’s house is the full length narra paneled halls (at the first and second floor) including the grand narra staircase that was varnished in oil finish style then. This painted finish approach seemed like an individualistic artistic effort since houses (in the region) then were generally not painted at all. (They say that most owners of ancestral houses in the town felt the best way to show off their house’s prime hardwood was not to paint over them). The Capitan’s paint finish was however expertly done that his house stood out among many fine colonial houses then in the town.
THE GENERATIONS AND THE MERCADO HOUSE
Capitan Leon and his wife, Inay Miling (Sales) had fourteen children all in all, although two died at infancy. The pre-war years were filled with fun and elegance as the Mercado children entertained visitors to the house with its large landscaped yard. Numerous cousins, friends & classmates of the children would sleep over at one time or another. Banquet set-ups had accommodated President Manuel L. Quezon and other dignitaries during their campaign sorties in the area. When war broke out in 1943 and life in Manila became harder and harder, the Mercado children (who were just becoming settled in Manila for schooling or business reasons) made the exodus back to their home province like many others from San Juan. Naturally, they rejoined their father the Capitan, in the Mercado house for the duration of the war.
In the 50s, the Mercado house was the regular venue every summer (for at least two months of the year) for the Mercado siblings and their families. (Going home was a tradition among San Juan families whose social life was rooted in the town). Due to the size of the Mercado clan when they came for vacation, each meal was a banquet, the house compound a huge playground, and the sizable plantation spread a place for picnics and fruit-picking, horseback riding and hunting, and camp-outs and swimming.
Kapitan Leon was widowed in 1947, after which he devoted his life to tending his coconut plantations (that he had expanded with investments in the rural lands of Naga City).
(Note the portraits of Leon Mercado’s 12 children hanging on the wall of the ground floor dining room.)
THE RESTORATION
The restoration of the Leon Mercado ancestral house was started in the
second half of 2001 by Kapitan Leon’s grandson and namesake, Leon Mayo. Leon is an Architect and urban planner, and his restoration work plan centered around heritage conservation and an adaptive re-use approach. This meant that the design character of the house was retained for the most part while still making it a fitting place to live in. The idea was to make the house a truly usable structure despite its fragile heritage nature. Special effort was taken to restore (or preserve, as the case may be) the original ‘look’ and ‘feel’ of the house features as envisioned by the builder, Capitan Leon.
The restoration of the house façade (signified by its double-roof line, rose-color painted exterior, classic precast wall embellishments and full-length fenestration system) required discreet construction techniques, but on the whole, it was not exceptionally troublesome work since the the house with its hardwood structure was well preserved .
The interior is likewise in generally good form and required only selective construction effort including special detailing to restore worn-out, lost and damaged materials (chipped and tarnished decorative tileworks, inoperative antique locksets, deco lights with missing parts, stolen valances, broken glass and termite infested ceiling moldings) in the house.
The basic rework effort took two years to complete. This included the replacement of much of the 80 year old tin roof system and installation of new electrical and plumbing lines. There are now additional facilities in the form of extra toilets at the ground floor and yard, custodian’s quarters where the ground floor kitchen used to be, and servant’s bunk facilities behind the house. For the main yard, the initial landscaping effort involved contouring work on the yard topography to address the flash flood problem.
THE STEWARDS
Today, the Capitan Leon Mercado ancestral house is CASA LEON. Primarily, the name evokes not only the name of the Capitan but also the landmark twin lion statues “guarding” the entry to the house. The house today is under the stewardship of Leon M. Mayo, a grandson of Capitan Leon, who is the elder of two children of Rosing Mercado Mayo (the sixth child of Capitan Leon) and Dr. Cesar M Mayo Sr. The articulate Rosing is the source of much of the family history and house details in this book.
To the question of why we bother with this effort at all, the answer is simple. CASA LEON is about Philippine tradition and legacy. It is about Batangas spirit and pride. It is about San Juan roots and families. It is about personal memories. CASA LEON was the centerpiece of Capitan Leon’s aspirations that left its imprint on his family. It is hoped that the restoration will help foster the kinship among the Mercado family in a manner that would have done Capitan Leon proud.
By Leon M. Mayo
An outstanding feature is its full length narra-paneled halls and ballustraded main stairway in furniture quality finish.
Almost three meter decorative high grill fence inclusive of several gates
Second floor toilet foyer mural
The main dining set (supposedly from Puyat of Pampanga) seats fourteen.
This heritage house will soon restart heritage tours. Look out for Museo Marasigan: Bahay na Bato 1890. The Apolonio Marasigan House is where Cafeno.Mnl Cafe is located.
“The heritage house of Francisco Marasigan along the Calle Mayor is one of the oldest houses in San Juan. According to the Marasigan family, it was actually the grand old bahay-na-bato house of Francisco and his wife Irene Perez Mercado in lumang bayan that had been relocated. Could this be Camilo Perez’s ancestral house since Francisco’s wife Irene is Camilo’s granddaughter?”
The San Juan Batangas Legacy
By Leon M. Mayo
Araceli's drawing room in art deco design
An arched passageway made of adobe connecting the Rizal and Luna gardens
Long 20-seater narra dining set
Rizal private garden lined with fruit bearing trees
FB page: Casa Soledad
"Found at the corner of Mojica St. and De Villa St., Casa Soledad is one of the grand heritage houses that has retained its traditional 'bahay na bato' Spanish architecture.
Casa Soledad still proudly displays its massive wooden pillars and ceiling beams. Noteworthy among its treasures is a life-size foto-oleo (oil-paint enhanced photograph) of Leonor wearing a Filipiñiana dress adorned with actual sequins. Additionally, keep an eye out for precolonial jars excavated from an archaeological site in Calubcub Segundo."
By Ironwulf En Route
FB page: WhiteHouse San Juan
For the new owners, it is an experience of serendipity. The Marundan couple restored and revived the vibrant beauty of the White House formerly owned by the Mercado family. After 89 years, this iconic historical house in San Juan, Batangas maintains its grandeur. It is a testament to the Filipino values of resilience, hospitability, and faith in God.
Characterized by its wooden and locally sourced bamboo materials; exuding warmth, familiarity, and craftsmanship; surrounded by lush greenery, an ancestral bahay kubo in the quiet town of San Juan, Batangas stands.
This traditional Filipino home boasts of a rich cultural heritage and architectural ingenuity. Owned and designed by the Castillo family matriarch Eugenia Castillo in the seventies, the house showcases not only her artistry but her lifestyle of preservation, respect, and love of generations past.
Ka Genia, known for her creative spirit, dreamt of becoming an interior designer. Her artistry shines through her home and in the community celebrations she hosted. One example was a contest she initiated for the best Christmas decor in Barangay Maraykit. Out of a genuine love for the festive season, she funded it herself.
Eugenia Galit Satin, affectionately called Ka Genia, hailed from a humble family of farmers in Barangay Janaojanao. As the devoted wife of Ramon Villapando Castillo, who later became the vice mayor of San Juan, she earned a reputation for her kindness and generosity. Stories abound of her tireless efforts to solicit and raise funds to purchase medicine for her kababayans, a testament to her compassionate nature.
Before stepping into the world of politics, Ka Genia and her husband embarked on various business ventures, providing their family with a life of comfort. They owned a beloved local restaurant, Dampa Natin, which became a sensation in the sixties, along with a Caltex gasoline station, a bakery, a ricemill, and a cockpit arena. It is no surprise that she was honored with the title of Ulirang Ina in the Province of Batangas, a testament to her unwavering dedication to both her family and community.
Not only was this devoted homemaker honored, but so was her remarkable creation. The home she envisioned and brought to life became her obra maestra. Her bahay kubo was recognized during the Marcos Administration as one of the nation's invaluable treasures, earning distinction through the Bahay Pilipino Awards Program in 1978. This masterpiece was also featured in the prestigious Architectural Journal magazine in 1981, further cementing her legacy in the world of home design and craftsmanship.
Dampa ni Ka Genia’s exterior features a harmonious blend of greens and earthy tones. The shade of trees, cascading foliage, and carefully landscaped potted plants, shaped over the years, create a tranquil atmosphere. A red brick patio leads to a raised platform, flanked by brick light holders on each side. A four-tiered bamboo staircase ascends to the porch, where a brass birdcage offers a warm welcome. Beyond a driftwood post, the rustic bamboo flooring greets your feet, with a refreshing breeze flowing through. Intricate wooden balusters adorn the porch, a home to clean bamboo strips that beautifully complement the bamboo-crafted sofa. A tall dabakan drum stands nearby. Hanging on the walls are symbols of the family’s livelihood: an araro and paragos, representing farming, a gilingang bato for the konohan or rice mill, and two handmade stuffed rooster dolls signifying the family’s ties to the cockfighting arena, perched on an old sewing machine transformed into a table. A carabao figurine stands across. A woven rattan hammock is strung in the corner, adding to the porch's inviting charm.
As you step inside the house, a welcoming family table greets you, nestled in a room that can be enclosed or opened by a series of doors adorned with delicate capiz shells. At the forefront, a hand-painted masterpiece by the renowned Patis Tesoro graces the wall, adding an air of elegance. To the right stands a statue of Saint Rita of Cascia, the patroness of impossible causes, heartbreak, and resilience, lovingly enshrined within a Cebuano capiz wall. This statue watches over those who seek solace in her, especially women who face sterility, abuse, loneliness, or marriage difficulties. A regal peacock rattan chair takes midway, exuding both charm and grace.
The bamboo flooring and woven bamboo wall panels lend the space a warm, earthy texture, embracing the organic beauty of natural materials. The woman of the house, Ka Genia, has imbued this home with her personal touch, adorning the upper walls with intricately carved woodwork. These carvings, her children recounts, were crafted by the skilled hands of her townspeople, each one a tribute to the artisans from various barangays renowned for their craft. She sought them out personally to bring these intricate details to life.
The ceiling is a woven bamboo accent, called sawali, which adds both ventilation and a decorative touch, showcasing vibrant geometric patterns made from natural fibers. Below the ceiling, a row of bamboo poles frame the space, seamlessly blending into the organic theme that flows throughout the home, creating an atmosphere that feels both timeless and deeply connected to the Filipino heritage.
Beside St. Rita is the doorway leading to the master bedroom, a space that embodies elegant simplicity. This home, which has witnessed the enduring love of Ka Genia for her late husband, Ramon Villapando Castillo, the former Vice Mayor of San Juan, speaks volumes through its subtle grace.
At the heart of the room, an intricately carved, four-poster king-sized bed rests. A symbol of strength and timeless beauty. The polished bamboo floor gleams beneath it, clean and smooth. Large windows, adorned with a grid of capiz shells, allow natural light to filter in gently, casting soft, dancing shadows across the room. The walls, painted in a light hue, perfectly complement the deep brown wood that frames both the windows and doors, adding a refined contrast.
A door opens onto a veranda, revealing a lush garden overflowing with vibrant tropical plants. Sunlight streams through the tree canopy, illuminating the wooden balustrade that lines the balcony. From this vantage point, one can overlook both the peaceful porch and the serene beauty of the garden below.
Two more bedrooms are located to the left side of the master bedroom. The first room features a unique hanging bed which was Ka Genia’s idea. The bed is crafted from rattan, supported by bamboo frames, attached from the ceiling with thick brown ropes. Like the master bedroom, large capiz shell windows adorn the room, with built-in cabinets for storage. In the right corner of the room is a door that leads to the veranda where two wooden hammock swings face each other.
The veranda is designed with a smooth flat wooden beam resting atop beautifully carved balusters, polished to a shine. Chinese bamboo plants can be seen just beyond the railing. The middle room, larger than the guest room features a single bed frame. Intricate wood carvings on the window frames are emphasized as natural light gleans through the capiz shell windows. Afront the windows, a rattan center table is paired with two rattan chairs, arranged to face each other. A perfect place for a coffee talk.
The walk from these rooms to the kitchen is never boring, as one encounters different treasures and artifacts along the way. Three Thai intricately designed necklaces are framed in black and displayed on the red brick wall, while a proud Yamaha piano rests beneath them. From this part of the house, you will walk passed the family dining table and be greeted by a charming, small kitchen with beige tiles. A hanging cupboard houses an exquisite collection of chinaware.
A little walk brings you to a small cozy room made from bamboo slats serving as a walk-in pantry. Across from it sits a rectangular bamboo box with a detachable cover--once used as refrigerator as Ka Genia’s daughters fondly recall. Beyond these spaces lie the so-called banggerahan, a traditional Batangueno dirty kitchen, complete with a bamboo lavatory. To the right of the banggerahan, a bamboo staircase descends to the back of the house where a lush garden boasts lanzones, tamarind, and towering mahogany trees.
When the woman of the house passed away, the humble abode was left in the care of her children: Elenita, who married into the Nadres Family of Candelaria, Quezon; Efren, who wed Mrs. Normita Bondoc of Pampanga; Emmanuel, who tied the knot with Mrs. Felma Robles of San Juan, Batangas; Ramona Elecita, who became the wife of Mr. Roberto Lorenzana of Manila; Maria Elvira, a successful entrepreneur, mother, and advocate of justice and human rights; Eloisa, who is currently in the United States; and Ramon.
This home’s architecture and furnishings speak volumes about the woman behind it. From its raised wooden porch and carefully chosen furniture to the celebrations held within its walls and the guests it has welcomed, every element reflects Ka Genia’s enduring legacy.
The house itself is a mirror of her character--its sturdy materials representing her strength, the natural elements symbolizing her authenticity, and the intricate carvings revealing her attention to detail. The serene ambiance, the harmonious textures and patterns, the blend of elegance and simplicity--all weave together a tale of a resilient woman.
It tells a story of tradition and adaptation, of a woman who found peace in craftsmanship, transforming this house into more than just a home. It stands as a monument to Filipino culture and a tribute to the legacy of an empowered woman whose spirit lives on in every corner.
Today, Dampa ni Ka Genia is now open to the public for cultural tours, staycation, and venue for special occasions, and a lot more, offering visitors a glimpse into the rich heritage, artistry, and legacy of Ka Genia and her family. Beyond being a preserved ancestral home, it is a living museum, inspiring future generations to appreciate and honor Filipino culture and tradition.
By Jean Syrah Macalalad-de Torres