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Gelato

Gelato--Italian ice cream or sorbet--is one of the great pleasures of living in Italy.  Naples claims to be the birthplace of gelato, and thus has some excellent gelaterie.

Recommended Gelaterie

Here are some good gellaterie in and around Naples:
  • Gelateria della Scimmia - Piazza Carità 4 (on Via Toledo, at intersection with Pignasecca market and Spaccanapoli) Jan-Mar/Nov M-F 11-9, S/S 11-mid, Apr-Oct/Dec M-F 11-10, S/S 11-mid; one of the oldest gelaterie, they still make everything fresh; a favorite of ICR tours.  Excellent frutti di bosco (mixed berry) and arancia rossa (blood orange, only in summer).  They are also famous for their banana gelatos dipped in chocolate.  081-552-0272.  There is a satellite branch (less flavors, a bit less fresh) in the Centro Storico on Spaccanapoli (at piazzetta del Nilo).
  • Polo Nord - Via Pietro Colletta 41/43, Centro Storico, near the famous Pizzeria da Michele; they also make many fresh flavors.  Their 70% chocolate "ChocoPerugia" is a must for serious chocoloholics.  081-205-431, Closed Sun.
  • Fantasia Gelati - Via Toledo 381, 7-1am daily, 081-551-1212.  Extremely popular Gelateria, not far from la Scimmia.  (Also a branch at Piazza Vanvitelli in Vomero).  Great fragole (strawberry).
  • Gelateria Otranto - in Vomero, at via Scarlatti 78, near Piazza Vanvitelli and near Piazza dei Martiri (Chiaia).  Only has fresh, natural ingredients (you can tell by the colors--see "How to tell good gelato," below)  081-558-7498, 9:30-11 PM except Wed.  A satellite branch recently opened near Piazza dei Martiri at Piazza Giulio Rodinò 26.
  • Davide Gelateria - See the Sorrento Page for more.
  • Anema e Cono - Pozzuoli, Via Napoli.  The most popular of the Via Napoli gellaterie (and there are many!), known for having the best cones.  Also a Vodafone recharge station.
  • Sneezy - Pozzuoli, Via Napoli.  Founded by ex-employees of Anema e Cono, it has more exotic flavors (like Kiwi) and a dance club vibe.
  • Bilancione - Posillipo, Via Posillipo.  Famous gelateria, easily the best in Posillipo.  Gorgeous views of the water and Bay of Naples.
  • Gran Bar Riviera - 183 Riviera di Chiaia/Piazza Roffredo Beneventano, Naples.  Mostly famous for its pastries, but also has interesting gelato flavors such as the refreshing Lemon and Basil.  081-665-026

How to tell good gelato

Here are some tips for how to tell whether a gelateria is good:
  • "Produzione propria" or "Produzione artigianale" - this means that the gelato was (supposedly) made on site or hand-made
  • Metal tins - if it comes in a prepared plastic tin, it probably isn't any good (although some mass producers distribute in metal tins)
  • Natural Colors -  banana should be brown, not bright yellow; pistacchio should be greyish, not bright, green; lemon should be white, not yellow (it's the peel that turns flavors like limoncello or dilizia al limone yellow)
  • Seasonal - in summer they should have summer fruits, etc.
  • Specialists - do they just make gelato, or is it mostly a coffee shop that happens to have gelato in a freezer?
Sources and details: Faith Willinger's site, and Jessica's Guide to Good Gelato in Italy, which also includes tips on how to order, and popular gusti (flavors)

Granite

Granita is a close cousin of gelato--shaved ice with (usually fruit) juice/syrup.  It is delicious and refereshing, especially on a hot summer day.  Granita al'limone (lemon granita) is the classic, although lots of other flavors exist.  Some of the best in Naples is at "La Vera Granita" at the intersection of Corso Garibaldi and Via Casanova, about a block outside the Porta Capuana, which sells various flavors for 1 euro a cup.