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Gelato

Gelato--Italian ice cream or sorbet--is one of the great pleasures of living in Italy.  Naples claims to be the birthplace of gelato, and thus has some excellent gelaterie.

Recommended Gelaterie

Here are some good gellaterie in and around Naples:
  • Gelateria della Scimmia - Piazza Carità 4 (on Via Toledo, at intersection with Pignasecca market and Spaccanapoli) Jan-Mar/Nov M-F 11-9, S/S 11-mid, Apr-Oct/Dec M-F 11-10, S/S 11-mid; one of the oldest gelaterie in the city and a favorite of ICR tours, although their quality is perhaps not what it once was.  Good frutti di bosco (mixed berry) and arancia rossa (blood orange, only in summer).  They are also famous for their banana gelatos dipped in chocolate.  081-552-0272.  There is a satellite branch (less flavors, a bit less fresh) in the Centro Storico on Spaccanapoli (at piazzetta del Nilo).
  • Polo Nord - Via Pietro Colletta 41/43, Centro Storico, near the famous Pizzeria da Michele; even older than la Scimmia, they are the oldest continuously operated gelateria in Naples.  Recommended by Rick Steves, they make several fresh flavors.  Their 70% chocolate "ChocoPerugia" is a must for serious chocoloholics.  081-205-431, Closed Sun.
  • Fantasia Gelati - Via Toledo 381, 7-1am daily, 081-551-1212.  Extremely popular Gelateria, not far from la Scimmia.  (Also a branch at Piazza Vanvitelli 22 in Vomero, 081-578-8383, as well as via Cilea 80, 081-560-7001, and via Fragnito 30, 081-546-3430).  Great fragole (strawberry).
  • Gelateria Otranto - in Vomero, at via Scarlatti 78, near Piazza Vanvitelli and near Piazza dei Martiri (Chiaia).  Only has fresh, natural ingredients (you can tell by the colors--see "How to tell good gelato," below)  081-558-7498, 9:30-11 PM except Wed.  A satellite branch recently opened near Piazza dei Martiri at Piazza Giulio Rodinò 26.
  • Davide Gelateria - See the Sorrento Page
  • Bar Savoia - See the Amalfi Page.
  • Anema e Cono - Pozzuoli, Via Napoli.  The most popular of the Via Napoli gellaterie (and there are many!), their name is a joke based on a Neapolitan song.  They are known for having fresh-hot cones, and can also recharge your Vodafone SIM.
  • Sneezy - Pozzuoli, Via Napoli.  Founded by ex-employees of Anema e Cono, it has more exotic flavors (alas, their great Kiwi in 2009 didn't re-appear in 2010) and a dance club vibe.  Their cioccolato fondente (dark chocolate) is deliciously creamy.
  • Bilancione - Via Posillipo 238 (Posillipo, Naples).  Famous gelateria, easily the best in Posillipo.  Gorgeous views of the water and Bay of Naples.
  • Gran Bar Riviera - 183 Riviera di Chiaia/Piazza Roffredo Beneventano, Naples.  Mostly famous for its pastries, but also has interesting gelato flavors such as the refreshing Lemon and Basil.  081-665-026
  • Ciro Chalet - near Mergellina, this popular bar/pastry shop/gelateria by the water has very creamy gelato.
  • Il Pirata - probably the best gelateria near the Support Site. At intersection of via Benedetto Croce and via Diaz in downtown Aversa (~1 block away from the train station if you walk directly out the main door).  Excellent, creamy gelato; extremely popular.  Fight your way to the cashier to pay, then wait for your number to be called.  Open 4 PM to midnight every day, 081-503-9823.
  • Bar Gelo - via Miliscola 342, Arco Felice, 081-866-1343, 081-804-1368.  The Guardascione brothers run one of the most popular coffee bars in Arco Felice, which offers good gelato.
  • La Scimmietta 2 - Campania Mall and via Amendola 178, Afragola (closed Tues), 349-765-3449.  Considered by many to be the best gelato in the Naples area.  It's uncertain what, if any, connection they have with the Naples "Scimmia" gelateria; Antonio Giglio started the Afragola branch in the 80's and they opened up a branch in the Campania Mall in 2010.
  • Other websites recommend Motus Ice (Piazza Municipio, near Castello Nuovo) and Il Gelaterie (San Pasquale a Chiaia)

Of course, excellent gelato can be found outside of Naples, too; check out the Rome and Tuscany pages in particular for some excellent choices.

How to tell good gelato

Here are some tips for how to tell whether a gelateria is good:
  • "Produzione propria" or "Produzione artigianale" - this means that the gelato was (supposedly) made on site or hand-made
  • Metal tins - if it comes in a prepared plastic tin, it probably isn't any good (although some mass producers distribute in metal tins)
  • Natural Colors -  banana should be brown, not bright yellow; pistacchio should be greyish, not bright, green; lemon should be white, not yellow (it's the peel that turns flavors like limoncello or dilizia al limone yellow)
  • Seasonal - in summer they should have summer fruits, etc.
  • Specialists - do they just make gelato, or is it mostly a coffee shop that happens to have gelato in a freezer?
Sources and details: Faith Willinger's site, and Jessica's Guide to Good Gelato in Italy, which also includes tips on how to order, and popular gusti (flavors)

Granite

Granita is a close cousin of gelato--shaved ice with (usually fruit) juice/syrup.  It is delicious and refereshing, especially on a hot summer day.  Granita al'limone (lemon granita) is the classic, although lots of other flavors exist.  Some of the best in Naples is at "La Vera Granita" at the intersection of Corso Garibaldi and Via Casanova, about a block outside the Porta Capuana, which sells various flavors for €1 a cup.  The absolute best granite al' limone, however, is at the Limonè limoncello factory in the Centro Storico, just up the hill from Christmas Alley outside of the Naples Underground Tour...since they use so many lemons for their limoncello, they always have super-fresh, all-natural granita for €1 a cup.