Before You Arrive

Before you leave for Europe, you should do the following:

• Passports and Visas - US military on orders technically don't need passports; however, you should get both a tourist and official passport, as it will make traveling easier.  US military personnel traveling on accompanied orders will need to get both no-fee passports and visas for their dependents--apply for these as soon as possible, as there can be significant delays.  Navy personnel should contact their local NavPTO to start the process (also see the Pearl Harbor NavPTO Webpage for good information).  (Note that dependents will eventually also need a "Sojourner's Permit," which you will apply for as part of your check-in process after you arrive in Italy.)
• Driver's License:  make sure your driver's license is up-to-date and won't expire soon; while you can renew your license when you get here, it's much easier to do in the States.  Also consider getting an International Driving Permit (usually the easiest way is via AAA for about $20); while not required for Italian driving (and not accepted by the Motor Vehicle Registration Office on base), it could be useful if you plan to drive outside of Italy. Austrian Police have asked for the International Driving Permit (IDP).  Here is a link to the IDP page http://www.aaa.com/ppinternational/Int_IDP_apply.html.
• Furniture - while you can buy furniture here (at the NEX or out in town, for example at Ikea), it will be more expensive and delivery can be troublesome.  If there are large pieces of furniture that you know you will need, get them in the States.
• Rugs - almost all Italian floors are tile/marble, and it is generally cheaper and easier to get rugs in the States.
• Household Goods - Start figuring out which things should go in the following four categories:
  1. Permanent Storage/Get Rid Of - Some stuff you just don't want to take, like any large appliance (refrigerators, washing machines, etc.)--none of them will work with Italian electricity, and chances are they may not fit into your house/apartment anyway.  The Navy lends you Italian-friendly appliances for the length of your tour.
  2. Main Household Goods - This is the bulk of your stuff: clothes, furniture, etc.
  3. "Express" Unaccompanied Baggage Shipment - In theory, this stuff gets in before the rest of your household goods, but sometimes it won't.  This should be stuff like cooking utensils and extra uniforms.
  4. Plane Luggage - On the plane, you'll want to bring 1 service uniform (e.g. khakis for officers/chiefs), 1 week's worth of civilian clothes (consider which season it will be), and your major papers (medical record, etc.).  You'll probably want a laptop, camera, etc.  You can get toiletries, etc. when you get in.

Area Introduction

A brief overview of the major military installations in the Naples area; for directions and coordinates see the Driving in Italy page:

• Gricignano ("gree-chee-NYAH-noh") Support Site (mostly people call it the "Support Site") This has the hospital, Navy housing/schools, a large NEX, and the commissary.  (Wikimapia location)
• Capodichino ("cap-poh-dee-KEE-noh"...see the pronunciation page for why it's said this way, but most people call it "Capo"). Home of 6th Fleet headquarters, this is where most people work, right next to the civilian airport (making for easy/free parking if you fly from Naples!). Also has a small NEX and other amenities (gym, subway, barber, etc.) (Wikimapia location)
• NATO Joint Forces Command Naples ("JFC") - The main office for Commander, Naval Forces Europe & Africa under his NATO hat as Commander of Joint Forces Command Naples, in Bagnoli, a neighborhood on western edge of Naples. Easy access to the Metropolitana subway/train line to get downtown, especially because military park free! (Wikimapia location)
• Carney Park - an extinct volcano (called by Italians Gauro, Campiglione, or Monte Barbaro) that houses a military recreational area, including picnic tables, a pool, golf course, etc; also the main site for the Navy Outdoor Program (Wikimapia location)
• Receiver Site - a bunch of satellite dishes used by NATO near Lago Patria (on the Northwestern coast); JFC will be relocating here around 2010. (Wikimapia location)
• Nisida - home of NATO's Maritime Component Commander (MCC) for the Med (CCMAR), this rocky outpost near Posilipo hosts the NATO yacht club and the Admiral's barge (Wikimapia location)
• Gaeta - once the home of 6th Fleet Headquarters, this is now a very small base to support USS Mount Whitney, the command ship, approximately 100 km north of Naples (in the neighboring region of Lazio) (Wikimapia location)

US/NATO Base Facilities, Hours, Information

See this page for useful numbers and hours for major offices, shops, etc.

When You First Arrive

Cell Phones

When you first arrive, you'll want to get an Italian cell phone right away.  This makes connecting with friends, coworkers, and businesses (including people selling cars) much easier.  Most people get pre-paid Italian cell phones though vendors such as Vodafone or TIM (Telecom Italia Mobile).  (Vodafone conveniently has a branch at both Capo and the Support Site; ask about their special "base plan" which is usually a better deal and more convenient than doing pay-as-you-go)  If you have a GSM phone already (AT&T/Cinguar or T-Mobile), you can just buy a new SIM card, but you'll likely have to "unlock" your phone first.  You can try calling your service provider, or an unlocking service such as www.unlockitnow.com; they charge $20 and send the code within a couple days.

Cars

You have several options for getting a car in Naples:

• Ship it.  Remember that Italian roads and parking spaces are tiny, so you'll likely want to leave the SUV at home.  Scrapes and nicks are par for the course here, so you'll want to leave the Jaguar at home, too.
• Buy military.  This means buying from the "lemon lot" at the Support Site, or from another military member (people put up flyers all over both bases...also ask around to see if colleagues are selling their cars before they leave)
• Buy in town ("on the economy").  You can probably find better deals than from military folks, but the seller may be less reliable, and the process may be less convenient.

Worries: Crime, Garbage, Water...

You may have heard that Naples is "dangerous" or controlled by the Mafia.  While it is true that there is a lot of petty theft, and the Camorra (the local Mafia) is a powerful force, there is almost no violent crime.  The base CO is fond of saying that his last duty station (Washington DC) had a much higher murder rate than Naples!  Especially in certain areas (like near the train station) you'll want to take extra precautions (like keeping your bags close to your body) that you would in any big city, but in general Naples is not as bad as its reputation.

In late 2007 and summer of 2008 there was a garbage crisis, with large piles of trash throughout the city, but since about mid-July 2008 there has been no garbage problem except out in rural areas.  However, some areas (e.g. west of the Support Site, in towns like Casal di Principe) apparently had illegal toxic waste dumps, which contaminated the ground water; the US government no longer allows its personnel to live there.

House Hunting

Many people who work at Capo commute each day on the Tangenziale (the "Tang"), a toll freeway connecting Western Naples/Campi Flegrei with Cappodichino.  (The Campi Flegrei, or "Phlegrean Fields," is the area west of Naples near the coast.)  It costs €0.75 each way. You can avoid the Tang by taking back streets, but usually this is slower.  In the mornings, there is little traffic going to Capo (since most Italians arrive at work later than the U.S. military) but in the afternoon there can be significant traffic, especially in the summer (albeit not in August, when everyone leaves town).  People living near the Support Site take the main Autostrada (A1) north, and people living in Lago Patria/Licola can take other freeways that avoid the Tang.

Housing Policy

As of mid-2009, the U.S. government's housing policy for military personnel in Naples was somewhat in flux.  In an effort to decrease the number of empty government housing units, most personnel now receive orders directing them into government housing (any Naples military PCS orders issued after late April likely have this clause).  However, several exceptions remain:  First, most single personnel (i.e. those without dependents, except E-1 to E-3, who generally stay in the barracks) will still live "out in town" ("on the economy").  Second, some personnel rate a larger house (due to family size, rank, or both) than is available, and thus have the option of taking a smaller-than-rated government house or living out in town.  Finally, at some point NSA Naples will reach its goal of little or no vacancy, and there will simply not be room for everyone in government housing--possibly even for those who want to live there!

Main Places Americans Live

• Napoli (e.g. Fuorigrotta, Vomero, Posilipo, Bagnoli...):  Living in "downtown" Naples is fun for people who want to really experience Italian culture and be in the thick of things.  It also has some of the shortest commutes to Capodichino.  Be sure to find a place that has parking or has less traffic.  Vomero is known for being the "ritzy" part of town, with nice shops and beautiful views.  Fuorigrotta is a cool, young part of town close to the soccer stadium.  Posillipo is a beautiful seaside neighborhood perched on a cliff.  Bagnoli is very close to the NATO Joint Force Command (although, as mentioned earlier, JFC will be moving in a few years).  Mergellina/Santa Lucia is where many of the hottest clubs and bars are.
• Campi Flegrei - the "Phlegrian Fields" are just West of Naples, and include the following communities (not to be confused with the Campi Flegrei metro/train stop, which is still in the city of Naples, albiet on the western end):
• Pozzuoli - an old port town, the hometown of Sofia Loren, has a number of bars that are popular with Americans, but is still busy with Italians.  Has a "small town" feel despite being quite urban and connected to Naples (via the Metropolitana subway/train).  Popular with singles and young couples.  As with downtown Naples, most housing is apartments, and carefully consider the parking situation.
• Arco Felice - a town just west of Pozzuoli named after the old Roman arch on its outskirts, which includes the popular Parco Caruso (which has its own private beach); has a number of good restaurants
• Monterusciello and Cuma - northwest of Pozzuoli, these hillside towns boast a number of houses and parcos with gorgeous views of the Tyrrehnian sea and the islands of Procida and Ischia.  The "Cumana" train line runs here (named after Cuma), although it is less frequent and shuts down earlier than the Metropolitana.
• Lucrino/Baia/Bacoli/Fusaro - towns further south/west of Arco Felice, at the end of the "bumpy tunnel" (a speed bump-laden tunnel that connects them with the Tangenziale).  Each town has its own character, although Baia is perhaps the most lively.  Lucrino and Fusaro are named after the nearby scenic lakes, and all the towns are close to the sea (many have beaches).  Each town has a Cumana stop.
• Monte di Procida - a beautiful peninsula at the far southwest of the region, it is a safe, trash-free, friendly place that is popular with Americans but also allows integration with Italian culture.  However, it is also a long commute to Capo, especially in the summer (when it becomes a popular destination for vacationers).  The last Cumana stop is at the far northern end of the town.
• Lago Patria - an area popular with ex-pats, although the housing office has been forced to discourage people from moving there due to a rash of thefts.  Features larger, detached, American-style houses, but also less interaction with Italians and little public transit.
• Licola - similar to Lago Patria
• Area near Gricignano (e.g. Casal di Principe) - large houses and easy access to the Support Site, although some places in the area are known to be run by the Camorra (the local Mafia), and much of the area has become something of an "American ghetto."  Little or no public transit.  As noted above, there are problems with tainted water, so the US Navy is no longer allowing Americans to live here.
• US Navy Housing - most of this is on the Support Site, although there are also some off-base parcos.  This can be a good choice for families with children who want security and easy access to the DoD schools.  However, it is easy to become stuck in "Fortress America" and be isolated from the Italian culture--which, in many people's minds, misses many of the reasons for coming overseas.  Previously, dogs were not allowed on base, but they are now under the NSA Naples Pet Policy (PDF).

Resources

• Housing Office: they have a large, but somewhat inaccurate and unwieldy database, of properties available in each region (they give areas a "color," such as Orange for the city of Naples).  While you should list several properties that you're interested in on your sheet, be sure to discuss with them what your priorities are (location, size, price, etc.).  For example, the database does not include a lot of places in downtown Naples, but if you are persistent in asking them, the housing office people can probably find you some good places.
• Departing Personnel:  if you know that someone is leaving not long after you arrive, you may be able to rent their house
• Landlord Representatives: act as matchmakers between landlords and tenants, in exchange for the landlords giving them a cut of your first few months' rent.  The following are some representatives that people in the office have used; there are others listed in the Panorama base magazine and the housing office.
• Eva Lindsay - works with her mother, Emilia, and speaks perfect English (her father is American); specializes in Pozzuoli and surrounding region (Bacoli, Baia, Monterusciello...); will help you get rent under your OHA ceiling 347-435-8060, H/081-804-4019, lindsay758@hotmail.com , Via Licola Patria 138.
• Enzo Scotto - very helpful and charismatic; specializes in Monte di Procida but also has properties elsewhere; speaks good English (his wife is Italian American), 338-714-3120.  Not to be confused with the Enzo who works for the housing office (who is NOT recommended).
• Luisa - used to work with Eva, specializes in Pozzuoli and surrounding area, especially the waterfront (lamarcaluisa@libero.it , 347-729-2381 or 320-273-0906)
• Alfonso Trincone - owns the popular Madigan's Irish pub in downtown Pozzuoli (via Carlo M. Rossini 51) and specializes in the region nearby, excellent English, Immobiliare l'Anfiteatro, www.housingnaples.com, 081-526-0545, 335-621-6320, relocation@housingnaples.com
• Websites: NapoliWeb's older but extensive page on house hunting in Naples explains the process in detail, including a number of photos.  Cheryl's Transferring to Naples website similarly is old but extensive; for example, her housing page reveals that this isn't the first time the US government has "direct assigned" people to government housing.  Kris and Susanna Carlson's webpage likewise provides good, but somewhat outdated, information.
  

Schooling

• Department of Defense Schools (DODS) -  at the Gricignano Support Site, the elementary school and high school feature standard, American-style curriculum taught by professional teachers.  A free bus picks up and drops off kids from off base every day (it stops in most places that Americans live).
• Montessori Academy of Naples - Located at JFC Naples in Bagnoli, this infant-8 school offers a Montessori-style curriculum taught by an international staff.  The majority of the students are Italian, but there is a strong international contingent and the language of instruction is English (it is popular with Italians who want their kids to learn English).
• International School of Naples - Pre-K through 12 school at JFC, with a more international curriculum.
• Italian School - A handful of ex-pats send their kids to Italian schools out in town.  There is a rumor that because you are benefiting in Italian public school, you may have to pay Italian taxes [##WHO KNOWS ABOUT THIS??##]
• Homeschool - Another option is to teach your children at home.  Unlike many American states, there is no accreditation or registration requirement.  You can use the DODS library, or have your kids engage in other on-base activities (e.g. DODS sports, ROTC, MWR Teen Center activities/sports, scouting, etc.).  For more information, contact the Naples Christian Homeschooling Association President, Mindy Doyle, at mindydoyle [at] yahoo [dot] com.

Italian Culture

Once You've Moved In

Banking/Rent

• NEX Money Changing - Both the Capo and Support Site Navy Exchange offer money changing/check cashing services.  While extremely convenient, their rates are typically very bad--to the point where an average servicemember can lose $100-200 from every rent check!
• Community Bank - Run by Bank of America, this is a branch located at Capo which offers somewhat better rates than the NEX.
• Banca Intesa Sanpaolo (Banca di Napoli) - This is an Italian bank conveniently located at Capo.  They offer great exchange rates, an ATM on base (and all around town), and can be useful when you need an Italian bank account (e.g. setting up Telepass or paying bills).  They have short hours and occasionally long lines on base, however.
• ATM - Perhaps the best rate, and the most convenient, is if you get the money through an ATM.  However, most banks limit how much cash you can withdraw.  If you use USAA, you can ask them to temporarily raise your limit by calling them, or permanently raise your limit by sending an official request online (go to Messages (upper right hand corner of screen), then click on "Send new e-mail to USAA" on the right).
• Calling USAA from Italy
• Telcom Italia line - dial 00-800-531-87220 (Italian toll-free number).
• DSN Line - dial 809-463-3376, this will connect you to another dial tone, from which you can dial any US 1-800 number.
• Cell phone - not recommended.

Phones

• Skype provides free computer-to-computer calls (including video), pay-as-you-go calls internationally (to US numbers it's roughly 2¢ per minute--free for toll free numbers--plus a 4¢ connection fee), and online numbers (where your friends can call a local number) for $18/3 months or $60/year.  $13/month worldwide subscription to call anywhere; with a subscription you can use Skype To Go to forward calls from your cell phone, so you only pay for the (local Italian) call to Skype to call "anywhere in the world" (actually only 1st world countries, and in some cases only land lines--for example, even with a subscription calls to Italian cells cost $0.25/min--but it works for any land or mobile US number).  Subscriptions also include $6 and $30 off the online number 3/year fee.  Skype also allows you to forward calls to any phone so you don't have to be at your computer, but you pay normal rates (either the pay-as-you-go or subscription).
• Vonage sells physical adapters ("V-Portals", available for nearly nothing) which allow you to connect a land line through the internet.  Their Residential Basic plan is $18/month for 500 outgoing minutes (to the US) and unlimited incoming, while their Residential Premium plan is $25/month for unlimited US calls and free calls to landline phones in Italy (and France/Spain/UK/Ireland)...both with a $30 activation fee.  [NOTE: they say they don't ship to PO boxes...has anyone had success getting this set up?  Do the ~$4 in VoIP/regulatory/911 fees also apply?]
• AOL Instant Messenger, Google Talk, iChat, etc. also offer voice and/or video chatting.  The disadvantage, of course, is that you both have to be at a computer.
• US Toll-Free Numbers - If you have access to a DSN phone line, dial 809-463-3376, this will connect you to another dial tone, from which you can dial any US 1-800 number.

Internet

• NEX Quality of Life Office - the easiest way ; you only interact with English-speaking NEX QOL employees, who handle all the arrangements and billing with Telecom Italia.  However, this may not be the cheapest option--in particular, because the service also requires installing a landline.
• Vodafone mobile plan - NOT recommended; it is slow and not available in many places
• [OTHER OPTIONS?  Francisco & Squeak, dimmi!]

Shipping