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Italian Culture

Key Elements

  • Familia - Nothing is more important to Italians than family; it is not unusual to live very close to one's family, and to spend nearly all one's free time with them.
  • Amore - The remainder of one's free time, of course, is spent chasing the opposite sex...and all the passion, romance, and drama that ensues.
  • La Bella Figura - Italians are all about appearances; one of the highest praises is that one has a bella figura (beautiful figure).  Brutta figura (ugly figure) is more than just ugliness: it's also appearing mean/unpleasant/greedy/impolite.
  • Furbo - This word means "shifty" but also "crafty"; it illustrates that Italians are wary of untrustworthy people, but also admire it when they get around the law.  This helps explain why Silvio Berlusconi is (relatively) popular despite his obvious corruption.  Blogfromitaly.com describes the words dual meaning well.  Some say that tax evasion is Italy's national sport...
  • Campanilismo - This word means "loving the Campanile" or town bell tower: it means that Italians are loyal to their home town above all (after all, the nation of Italy is relatively new).  It is sometimes said that Italy is just a bunch of independent city-states loosely bound together by soccer!  The phenomenom extends even to food--only a handful of Neapolitan restaurants serve non-Neapolitan food, let alone non-Italian food.
  • Religion - Almost all Italians are (at least nominally) Roman Catholic, and the pope (il Papa) is often on TV.  However, Italy also has a high divorce rate and many people do not actively go to church.  Also, lingering superstitions remain--especially in Naples against the Evil Eye (il Malocchio).

Neapolitan Culture

The culture in Naples is a subset of the Italian culture; here are some distinguishing features:
  • Italy in Technicolor - Many of the stereotypes of Italians (crazy driving, loud talking, over-the-top emotion, etc.) are even more prevalent in Naples.  Rick Steves writes, "If you like Italy as far south as Rome, go farther south.  It gets better.  If Italy is getting on your nerves, don't go farther.  Italy intensifies as you plunge deeper."  One good analogy for Americans is with Mexico:  just like our neighbor to the south, parts of Naples can be dirty, lawless, poor, and corrupt...but also, like Mexico, Naples has warm-hearted people, delicious food, ancient history, and beautiful countryside.
  • Historic Capital of the Mezzogiorno - Naples was once the capital of a separate nation in southern Italy, and is still considered the cultural capital of the South, or Mezzogiorno (literally "Mid-day").  They have an ongoing rivalry/antipathy with/against their compatriots to the North, who stereotype them as slow and lazy--not unlike Yankees' stereotypes about Dixie.  Still, Neapolitans are proud of their long and proud history, which goes back to the Greeks and before.  Ruled by multiple empires over the centuries--Greeks, Etruscans, Romans, Germans of the Holy Roman Empire, French of Anjou, Spanish of Aragon, etc.--the Neapolitans developed a "survival" culture that allows them to make the most of life, no matter what happens.
  • Corno and Pulcinella - Especially in touristy spots like Christmas Alley, you will see a lot of what look like red chile peppers.  They are actually horns, or corno, designed to ward off the Evil Eye and bring good luck (and hence are called portafortuna, "bring good luck," not unlike rabbits' feet in the U.S.).  Pulcinella is a masked character who appears in old theater and puppet shows, who is known for being an unruly prankster.  He is an unofficial mascot of the city, and you will find figurines of him (sometimes holding a corno) around town.
  • S.S.C. Napoli - Short for Società Sportiva Calcio Napoli (Naples Soccer Sporting Society), the hometown heroes have an almost religious devotion in Naples.  They play in the San Paolo Stadium in Fuorigrotta, and you see their light-blue banners and donkey mascot all over the city.
  • San Gennaro - A bishop beheaded by the Romans at the Pozzuoli Solfatara, this martyr (known as Saint Janarius in English) has since become the patron saint (or protetore) of Naples.  Thrice a year his blood, preserved in silver reliquaries, "liquifies," which is considered good luck for the city (for example, his relics are credited with stopping Vesuvius from destroying the city).  Also, every other Neapolitan male seems to be named Gennaro.
  • Canzone Napoletane - Neapolitan songs, sung in the Neapolitan dialect, many written for the still-active Piedigrotta Festival, are famous around the world, partly thanks to Neapolitan tenor Enrico Caruso, who sang these songs as encores after his performances.  Among the most famous are O' Sole Mio (Elvis's version was "It's Now or Never"), Funiculì Funiculà, Torna a Surriento (Return to Sorrento, also done by Elvis as "Surrender"), and Santa Lucia (yep, Elvis sang this one, too, but with the orignal lyrics).  Italamerica.org has a good history and catalog of the most famous songs.
  • Camorra - The Neapolitan mafia is a loosely-knit group of families who direct a number of illegal operations in the region.  Few people speak openly about the Camorra; hence the publication of Gamorrah, Roberto Saviano's tell-all book (followed by the movie Gomorra) was especially shocking.

Opening Hours

Note that most Italian establishments are open from 8 or 9 until about noon or 1 PM, then open up again around 4 or 5 until about 7 or 8 PM.

Bars and Cafes

Caffè (Italian coffee) is one of the most important parts of an Italian's day--especially in Naples.  This is usually at a bar, which means a coffee bar, not an alcohol bar (although alcohol is usually available).

Different Places, Different Prices

Often baffling to Americans is that you pay a different rate if you drink at the bar vice sitting down.  This is because if you sit down, you are served as you would be at a restaurant (a waiter comes to get your order, etc.) and thus you pay extra for the extra service.  In most places, therefore, it is brutta figura to buy at the bar and then sit down to drink--either buy and drink at the bar, or sit and wait to be served.

How To Order

Pay the cashier first.  Next, go to the bar, give the receipt to the barista and tell him/her what you want.  It is a nice gesture to place a 10 or 20 euro cent coin on top of your receipt as a tip.  Here is a list of the major types of coffee available:
  • Caffè (espresso) - a shot of very intense espresso coffee (the default; if you ask for a Caffè or Caffè normale this is what you'll get)  Simple variations include a lungo ("longer," less concentrated pull) or a doppio ("double" shot, usually costs more)
  • Caffè macchiatto - espresso with a small amount of foamed milk
  • Cappuccino - espresso with a lot of foamed milk.  Italians never have this after noon (and seldom after 10 AM).
  • Caffè corretto - espresso with a small amount of liquor added (to "correct" the flavor!)
  • Caffè del Nonno - "grandpa's" creamy, partially frozen coffee; great on a hot day
  • Caffè freddo - iced espresso, also good for hot days
  • Caffè shakerato - espresso shaken with shaved ice and sugar
  • "con zucchero" or "zuccherato" means with sugar--in some places they will pre-sweeten your coffee either on request or automatically; if you don't want any, ask for yours "senza zucchero" or "amaro"

Restaurants

Different Timeline, Different Pace

Most Italians don't even think to start eating until 8 PM, so most restaurants don't open until 7 or 7:30.  They stay open quite late--often until midnight.  Note that for Italians, eating is a social event, so they don't expect the food to arrive quickly.  Simliarly, you have to ask for the bill (il conto)--they would consider it rude for the waiter to bring it without being asked (as it implies that he is trying to get rid of the diners).  Thus, a full Italian dinner can be a several-hour affair.  If you are pressed for time, tell your waiter and he should be able to accomodate you.

Types of Restaurants

Not all restaurants are "ristorante".  Here is a list of eating establishments and what to expect at each:
  • Ristorante - traditional, somewhat fancier, full-service restaurant
  • Pizzeria - what it sounds like--usually cheaper/less fancy than a restaurant although many of them are also full-service restaurants
  • Osteria (Hosteria) - literally a pub, but usually it's a less fancy eatery
  • Taverna - literally a tavern, but like Osteria often means a less fancy place to eat
  • Trattoria - a home-style restaurant
  • Enoteca - a wine bar; many of these have (sometimes substantial) food
  • Tavola Calda - a "hot table," a take-away fast-food place where the dishes are already prepared, sitting on a hot plate

How to Order

A traditional Italian meal starts with Antipasti (appetizers), then Primi (or Primo Piatto, a first dish of usually pasta), then Secondi (or Secondo Piatto, usually seafood or meat), then Insalata (salad), then Formaggio (cheese), then Dolci (dessert), with various beverages (wine, sparking wine, coffee, limoncello, grappa) in between.  Of course, you don't have to have the whole nine yards--it is perfectly acceptable to just have a pizza, for example (especially if you are at a pizzeria!).  To ask what the waiter recommends, ask "Che cosa consiglia?"  See Italian Food Words for useful information when deciphering menus.

Tipping

It is not necessary to tip in Italy like it is in the US.  In most cases, the service is included in the bill (as servizio or coperto).  If you had good service, however, it is entirely appropriate to leave a small tip (from a few euros to 10%).
 

Italian Media in Naples

The following is a list of the major media outlets in Naples:

Radio

See the Wikipedia Radio Stations in Naples page for a complete list, and FMScan's list by network.

Television

  • Rai - features 3 stations of state-sponsored programming
  • Mediaset - entertainment network owned by Silvio Berlusconi; Rai's primary competitor
  • All Music - a clone of MTV, except it actually plays music!

Newspapers

The following are some popular local and national newspapers and news magazines:

  • Il Mattino (the most read Neapolitan newspaper)
  • Il Golfo (Ischia and Procida newspaper)
  • Il Corriere della Sera (a somewhat liberal national newspaper, Italy's New York Times, based in Milan, run by the family that owns Fiat)
  • La Repubblica (a center-left national newspaper based in Rome, vies with Correire della Sera for national prominence)
  • La Stampa (the third most popular national newspaper, based in Turin and owned by the Fiat Group)
  • La Nazione (somewhat less popular, but one of the most prominent conservative newspapers, based in Florence)
  • L'Osservatore Romano (a newspaper produced by the Vatican in Rome, sometimes has interesting stories)
  • Il Sole 24 Ore (financial paper, similar to the Wall Street Journal, published in Milan, owned by the Confindustria manufacturers coalition)
  • La Gazzetta dello Sport (a very popular sports newspaper, printed on pink paper)
  • Il Corriere dello Sport - Stadio (a competitor to la Gazetta, published in Rome)
  • L'Espresso (a left-leaning weekly news magazine produced by the same company as La Repubblica)
  • Panorama (another weekly news magazine, right-leaning and owned by Silvio Berlusconi)
  • Leggo (a free newspaper with a Naples edition)