Search this site
Italy‎ > ‎

Puglia, Calabria, Basilicata

Contents

  1. 1 Puglia
    1. 1.1 Trulli Country
    2. 1.2 Adriatic Coast
    3. 1.3 Southern Puglia/Salento
      1. 1.3.1 Beaches
      2. 1.3.2 Resources
    4. 1.4 Taranto
      1. 1.4.1 Where to Eat
  2. 2 Calabria
    1. 2.1 Resources
  3. 3 Basilicata
    1. 3.1 Matera
      1. 3.1.1 Where to Eat
      2. 3.1.2 Where to Stay
    2. 3.2 Other Sights
      1. 3.2.1 Resources
Puglia

Also known in English as "Apulia," this region forms the "heel" of Italy's boot, and is known for its wild landscape, the Castel del Monte (a 13th Century octagonal fortress that appears on Italian 1-euro-cent coins), interesting trulli houses in Alberobello, and the town of Lecce (the "Florence of the South" due to its splendid Baroque architecture).  Bari and Brindisi are also frequent departure points for Greece and other Eastern Mediterranean destinations.

Puglia features pristine beaches, including the most amazing at the "tip of the heel" in Santa Maria di Leuca.  The region produces some of the best olive oil in Italy, and does excellent things with seafood.  Consider staying at a masseria, a fortified country farmhouse (similar to an agriturismo; see this Frommer's article on masserie).  Also try out the excellent wines such as Primitivo di Manduria, the region's flagship red wine,  Nero di Troia, a rich red wine, and others such as Negroamaro, Salice Salentino, and Malvasia.

Trulli Country

The Valle d'Itria (Itria Valley) between Putignano and Martina Franca has a number of conical-shaped buildings known as trulli.  You will see them throughout the valley, in particular along a scenic drive through the farmland (punctuated by various trulli along the way) recommended by Frommer's: Alberobello on Hwy 604 to Locorotondo, then Hwy 172 to Martina Franca, then Cisternino, then Ostuni.  Also check out the Valle d'Itria Music Festival each summer.

  • Alberobello - this town has the most trulli, packed densely onto a hillside.  The main trullo part of the town has become over-run with tourists, but some more residential areas are quieter and more characteristic:  for example, Frommer's recommends crossing Largo Martellotta to check out the more residential area near Piazza M. Pagano...behind Piazza 27 Maggio through Piazza Plebiscito to the Aia Piccola district.
    • Where to Stay
    • Where to Eat
      • ## L'Aratro - via Monte San Michele 25/29, 080-432-2789, restaurant in trulli (although outdoor seating also available), homemade pastas, excellent wine list, ~€25-45, €15-35 fixed menus, rec'd by Fodor's, Panorama, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin, and TCI!
      • La Cantina - vico Lippolis 9 (at Corso Vittorio Emmanuele) 080-432-3473, 347-740-1588, closed Tues, owner Francesco Lippolis welcomes you with great, seasonal meat dishes; good house wine, ~€35, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia and TCI.
      • Trullo d'Oro - via Felippe Cavallotti 27, 080-432-3909, closed Sun eve, Mon, in old trulli, ~€25-50, local dishes with a creative flair, good desserts and wine list, rec'd by Michelin, TCI, Cadogan, Fodor's and Frommer's.
      • Le Ulivi - Corso da Popoleto 15 (exit town towards Putignano, make R after bridge), 080-432-3796, inexpensive local-only spot rec'd by Fodor's.
      • Locanda di Don Antonio - Via Giove 8, 080-432-6084, closed Mon (or Wed?), old restaurant with cave atmosphere, lots of local specialties and dessert made on the spot, ~€30-35, Frommer's favorite restaurant in town, also rec'd by Espresso.
      • Colle del Sole - via Indipendenza 63, 080-432-1814, beautiful pergola and local specialities like orecchiette pasta with turnips and country-style cavatelli pasta with tomatoes and arugala, also rents rooms, rec'd by Michelin, ~€30
      • Hotel Astoria - viale Bari 1, 080-432-3320, convenient to the train station, Pugliese cusine but also international dishes, ~€40 with €22 fixed menu, rec'd by Michelin
      • Trattoria da Donato - Via Turi 98 in Coreggia (just NE of downtown Alborobello), 080-432-4539, a simple place with Bari specialities, especially meats such as beef steak on a hot plate, ~€20-25
      • Poeta Contadino - via Indipendenza 21, 080-432-1917, closed Mon, expensive but good restaurant, ~€70, rec'd by Panorama, Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Veronelli, Michelin, TCI, Cadogan, Fodor's and Frommer's
      • Cucina dei Trulli - Piazza Ferdinando IV 30, 080-432-1511, inexpensive family-run place rec'd by Cadogan, associated with hotel Lanzillotta.
  • Locorotondo - whitewashed city known for its wine (at the Cantina del Locorotondo, via Madonna della Catena 99, 080-431-1644, 080-431-1298, ask for Oronzo Mastro).
    • La Taverna del Duca - via Papatodero 3, 080-431-3007, closed Sun eve, everything is fresh and good in this former palace, homemade desserts, ~€20-22, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia and TCI.
    • Centro Storico - via Eroi di Dogali 6, 080-431-5473, closed Wed, intimate trattoria with carefully prepared food, ~€25, rec'd by Cadogan, Michelin, and TCI.
    • Casa Mia, via Cisternino on the way to Ostuni, 080-431-1218, Cadogan rec's the stuffed peppers and corniglio al forno at this inexpensive place.
  • Martina Franca - medieval and baroque hilltown, rec'd by Fred Plotkin as the "classic town" for Puglia
  • Cisternino -

    Trullo House near Cisternino
    between Locorotondo and Ostuni, less touristy than the other trullo towns, but which was selected as one of the "most beautiful small towns in Italy has a beautiful centro storico (historic center) which is fun to walk around.
    • Where to Stay
      • Recommended B&B: Trullo Sovrano Exclusive B&B, Via Giaconecchia 14, 080-204-8783, 348-405-8508, which has some trulli, as well as other spacious rooms in a beautiful oasis a few minutes from Cisternino, nice outdoor pool, Michele cooks up a wonderful breakfast
      • Another trullo B&B is Antica Aia
    • Where to Eat
      • Cisternino is known for its "fornelli pronti" (butcher's shops connected to grills) serving up such dishes as "bombette" (roasted pork meatballs), including Macelleria de Mola Vincenzo/Arrosteria del Vicoletto (2 Via Giulio II, in the centro storico, 080-444-8063, rec'd Lonely Planet and others),  Al Vecchio Fornello (via Basilioni 18, 080-444-6431, rec'd Lonely Planet and others, just outside one of the entrances to the centro storico), Rosticceria da Zio Pietro (via Duca d'Aosta 3, 080-444-8300), and Rosticceria L'Antico Borgo
      • Taverana della Torre - via S. Quirico 3, 080-444-9264, closed Tues, next to a medieval tower, serves up traditional recipes made with fresh ingredients, homemade pasta, don't miss the outstanding appetizers, ~€25-30, ~€22-28 fixed price, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia, Gambero Rosso, etc.
      • Il Capriccio - via Monte Cutetto 25, in Caranna, north of downtown Cisternino, 080-444-2553, closed Mon lunch, Wed simple trattoria with ample portions of sea and land food, ~€20-25, rec'd by TCI.
      • La Botte - via Santa Lucia 47, tucked into the corner at one of the entrances to the centro storico, 080-444-7850, 347-854-7227, closed Thurs, Puglia specialties, homemade pasta, ~€20-30, €15 fixed price menu.
      • [What was the name of the gelateria??]
      • Osteria Sant'Anna - viale Stazione 12, 080-444-7036, closed Mon, 4 generations have cooked in this restaurant; the current chef (Peppino) makes various local specialties, ~€35, rec'd by Espresso and Veronelli.
      • Hosteria Bella Italia - via Duca d'Aosta 29, 080-444-9036, closed Wed, rec'd by Lonely Planet
      • Il Cucco - Corso Umberto I 137, 080-444-9064, closed Tues, rec'd by Lonely Planet...also a good place to taste wine
  • Ostuni - "the white city" just east of Alberobello
    • Where to Stay
      • Frommer's rec's staying in the Trulli of Masseria Cappuccini, Corsa da Cappuccini, 333-412-0241, includes a pool, cheap
      • Tre Torri, Corso Emmanuele 298, 083-133-1114, Cadogan and Fodor's rec'd this inexpensive hotel.
    • Where to Eat
      • ## Osteria del Tempo Perso via Gaetano Tanzarella Vitale 47, 083-130-4819/3320, 339-185-1652, 393-934-0556, closed Mon (except August), June-Sept dinner only except Sundays, in the centro storico, Teo Carlucci cooks up delicious suprises, ~€40, is highly rec'd, including this blog post, Gambero Rosso, Veronelli, Michelin, TCI, Frommer's, and Fodor's.
      • ## Masseria Il Frantoio, via Bixio Continelli 54/64 (SS16 Km 874), 083-130-1402, closed Mon, agriturismo/masseria with great reviews and cool underground excavations; 5 types of homemade olive oil, food made from organic products of the agriturismo, €53 fixed price menu, must reserve ahead.  rec'd by Slow Travel readers, also see this blog entry.
      • ## Al Fornello Da Ricci, Contrada Montevicoli, 083-137-7104, closed Mon eve (& Sun eve except summer), Tues, expensive (~€55-60, ~€50-60 fixed price menus) but great restaurant known for innovative but traditional cooking, is 7 miles south of Ostuni in Ceglie Messsapica, rec'd by Cadogan (who calls it "an absolute must for foodies interested in Puglian cuisine"), panorama, Gambero Rosso, Esprsso, Veronelli, Michelin, TCI, and Fodor's.
      • Al Solito Posto - via Braico 37, 083-130-5850, closed Tues, nice restaurant/pizzeria with ample portions, ~€30-35, rec'd by Alice.
      • Lamiola Piccola - Contrada Lamiola Piccola, 083-135-9972, closed Mon, agriturismo/masseria run by the Petrella family, fresh seasonal food from the property, they have a hot tub!, ~€35, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Veronelli.
      • Masseria Cantone - Contrada Fantese, on the road between Ostuni and Cisternino, 080-444-6902, everything is made on the property, open only for dinner, sunday lunch, or for groups of 15 or more, ~€30-45, rec'd by Panorama and TCI.
      • Masseria Refrigerio - Contrada Refrigerio, 083-133-0424, only dinner/Sun lunch in low season, rustic puglia food, with good local wine, ~€20-25, rec'd by Alice.
      • Masserie Rienzo - Contrada Rienzo 8, 083-130-4548, only dinner Apr-Oct, ~€30, must reserve ahead, relaxing locale for local Pugliese food, rec'd by Alice.
      • Odissea - via Oronzo Quaranta, 083-133-4750, 349-095-6520, in an old monestary, creative Puglia food, ~€35-40, rec'd by Veronelli.
      • Piazzetta Cattedrale - Via Arcidiacono Trinchera 7, 083-133-5026, re'cd by Espresso and TCI.
      • Spessite - via Brancasi 43, 083-130-2866, 338-975-8612, rec'd by Alice.
      • Ristorante Cibus - recommended by some online reviewers

Adriatic Coast

  • Trani - nice town on the coast near Andria (NW of Bari).  Let's Go rec's Tre Re, via Casale 58, 088-340-3328, good location, clean rooms as cheap as 16 euro and Centro Storico, via Leopardi 29, 088-350-6176, an inexpensive B&B with nice garden, which has been used in films.  Barletta, a little ways north, offers up Ristorante Antica Cucina, via Milano 73, 088-352-1718, a highly recommended spot.
    • Trattoria da Miana - Slow Travel reviewer said it was "[t]he most memorable meal of the whole holiday and probably of the whole year"
    • Cannae - near Trani, the site where Hannibal routed the Roman army.
    • Castel del Monte is not far inland near the town of Andria on SS.170 bis; open 10-1:30, 2:30-7, a puzzling 13th Century octogonal castle built for reasons that are not entirely clear.  Bring a picnic lunch or stop off before/after, as the available food options are not good.
    • one Chowhound raves about Masseria Barbera in Minervino Murge and some other places near Trani/Andria
  • Castellana Grotte - a town just north of Alberobello, not far from Monopoli (see below), which features a huge cave.
    • Fontanina - on the road towards Alberobello, 080-496-8010, closed Mon, generous portions of traditional food, ~€30, rec'd by Cadogan and Espresso.
    • Taverna degli Artisti - via Matarrese 23, 080-486-8234, Cadogan rec's the cannelloni, lamb, and torcini.
  • Monopoli - don't pass Go; instead stop off in this seaport east of Alberobello with a nice historic district, between Bari and Brindisi.
    • La Mia Terra, Contrada Impalata 309, 080-690-0969, closed Mon, rec'd by Frommer's and Michelin.
    • Lido Bianco - via Procaccia 3, 080-887-6737, rec'd by Alice
    • Osteria Perricci - via Comes 1/3, 080-937-2208, rec'd by TCI.
    • Vigna del Mar - via Mazzini 25, 080-808-571, rec'd by Gambero Rosso and Veronelli.
  • Polignano a Mare, just north of Monopoli, has good gelato such as Il Super Mago del Gelo.  It also has Grotta Palazzese, perhaps one of the most amazing (and expensive) hotel/restaurant locations in the world, as it is in a limestone cavern on the sea.
  • Bari - major town, embarkation point for many cruises.  A basilica in town contains the remains of San Nicola (Saint Nicholas, aka Santa Claus).
    • Ristorante al Pescatore, piazza Federico II di Svevia 6, 080-523-7039, rec'd by Fodor's for seafood.
  • Fasano - S of Monopoli, famous for the ZooSafari e Fasanolandia, which Americans call the "Bari Safari"
    • Masseria Parco di Castro, in Speziale (SE of Fasano on the way to Ostuni on SS16), 080-481-0944, closed Mon and Tues, open only for dinner, this agriturismo is rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia for excellent local food, ~€30.
  • Brindisi - the next major town south of Bari, see Jeff in Puglia's guide to gelato in Brindisi.
  • Gargano Peninsula - this "spur" to Italy's boot once was part of Croatia, which split off due to seismic shifts; it thus features a different look from the rest of Puglia (including lush forests).  Among its riches are San Giovanni Rotondo, a pilgrimage site for followers of Padre Pio, a relatively modern saint famous for having the stigmata.
    • Mattinata - seaside town in Foggia province (Gargano peninsula); try Trattoria dalla Nonna - rec'd by Fodor's
    • Vieste - Al Dragone - highly rec'd by Fodor's

Southern Puglia/Salento

The "Salento" region encompasses the very southern tip of the "heel", and includes some of the region's best beaches and serves up some of the best seafood.  While northern Puglia speaks a dialect similar to Neapolitan, in Salento the local dialect is "Salentino", more closely related to Sicilian (see this Salentino-Italian dictionary for a flavor).  The Greek influence in this region is also strong; there's even still a small community who speak a Greek dialect called Griko.
  • Lecce - provincial capital, famous for its extravagant baroque sandstone architecture.
    • Where to Eat
      • Alle due Corti - rec'd by Slow Travel, Travel and Leisure and Fodor's
      • ##Trattoria Cucina Casareccia ("Le Zie"), via Colonnello Costadura 19, 083-224-5178, 12:30-2, 8-11, cheap food made by grandma--book early because it's popular, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin, TCI, Fred Plotkin, Frommer's and Fodor's.
      • ##Osteria degli Spiriti - Via Cesare Battisti 4, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin, TCI, Fred Plotkin, and Frommer's
      • Boccon Divino - Via Libertini 17, 083-230-9583, 10:30-2, 6-1, www.boccondivinolecce.com, good Salento specialties, rec'd by Frommer's
      • Ristorante Villa G.C. della Monica - rec'd by Frommer's
      • Corte dei Pandolfi - www.cortedeipandolfi.com, rec'd by Fodor's
      • Il Farmer's - good grocery store with products directly from farmers; see this blog post
    • Where to Stay
      • www.salentoincasa.it books B&Bs around town
      • Chiesa Greca B&B Suites, piazzette Chiesa Greca 11, 083-230-2330, 335-534-46454, in a historic but air-conditioned building, re'cd by Frommer's
      • Centro Storico B&B - rec'd by Slow Travel
  • Otranto - somewhat touristy seaside town; cool cathedral and so close to Albania you can see it on a clear day
  • Taviano - town just SE of Gallipoli
    • ##A Casa Tu Martinu - rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin, and TCI.  Also rents rooms.
  • Gallipoli - on the western coast, site of a famous WWI battle
    • ##Trattoria la Puritate - rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin, and TCI
  • Alliste - SE/inland from Gallipoli; one reader recommends Hotel Jonico
  • Uggiano la Chiesa - just down the coast and inland from Otranto
    • Gattamora - agriturismo/masseria, www.gattamora.it, pool, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Michelin, and TCI
  • Muro Leccese - just inland from Otranto, near Maglie
  • Patù - town just N of Santa Maria di Leuca
    • ##Rua de Li Travaj - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, TCI, and Fred Plotkin
  • Alessano - just N of Santa Maria di Leuca, near Patù
    • Bio Masseria Santa Lucia
    • ...also nearby is Passeggiata in Galiano del Gapo (rec'd by Gambero Rosso)
  • Ugento - on the road between Gallipoli and Santa Maria di Leuca
  • Monacizzo / Avetrana - ~1 hour W of Lecce

Beaches

  • Torre Sant'Andrea - beautiful cove with natural stone arches, near town of Melendugno, N of Otranto at 40°15.3′N 18°26.7′E
  • Santa Maria di Leuca - has Punta Meliso, beautiful spot where Adriatic and Ionian seas meet
  • Baia Verde - south of Gallipoli, one reader recommends family-friendly Lido Punta Della Suina, 348-742-7000, 40°0.15'N 18°1.05'E ("a giant sandbar bay & the water is clean, no muck & seaweed")

Resources

Taranto

Taranto once was an important Greek colony, forming part of Magna Grecia (Greater Greece) along with towns such as Naples and Paestum.  It later waxed and waned in importance, and gave the "tarantula" its name (luckily, local spiders are not as big!).  Now Taranto is home to Italy's submarine fleet and various other parts of the marina militare (Navy).  The town is divided into the Città Vecchia (Old City) on an island, connected to the Città Moderna (New City) via a bridge that opens to let the Navy ships out.

Where to Eat

  • Il Caffè - Puglian/Seafood, reasonable prices, Frommer's calls it "the best restaurant in town," great mussels, 099-452-5097, Via d'Aquino 8, one block west of the SW corner of main piazza in Città Moderna
  • Le Vecchie Cantine - via Girasoli 23, Lama, 099-777-2589, Frommer's raves about this reastaurant 5 miles south of the city; also rec'd by Cadogan.
  • Da Mimmo - via Giovinazzi 18, 099-459-3733, inexpensive seafood restaurant rec'd by Cadogan.
  • Ristorante Basile - via Pitagora 76, 099-452-6240, inexpensive restaurant across from the park, rec'd by Cadogan.

Calabria

The "toe" of Italy's boot, Calabria is one of the poorest regions of Italy, known for its 'Ndrangheta mafia...but also is renowned for its spicy pepperoncini and beautiful, relatively unspoiled beaches.  Other highlights: mountainous Pollino National Park (where you can go whitewater rafting), Troppea (town carved in a cliff near Reggio di Calabria), Scilla (another popular beach town), Isola di Capo Rizzuto (with its castle jutting out into the Ionian), Reggio di Calabria (its largest city and home to the National Museum with the famous greek Bronzi di Riace statues), Praja a Mare, and Paola (home of St. Francis of Paola).

Resources

Basilicata

The "instep" between Calabria and Puglia, Basilicata is a mountanous region where the Apennines drop off into the Gulf of Taranto.

Matera


Panorama of Sassi di Matera
Originally made in paleolithic times, the Sassi di Matera cliff dwellings (divided into the Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano) formed the backdrop for The Passion of the Christ, among other films; while most of the good restaurants and hotels are in Sasso Barisano, it's well worth a hike over the hill to check out the more characteristic Caveoso side.  Check out some of the rock churches such as Madonna de Idris. You can also explore the more wild Parco della Murgia Matera (or "Park of the Rupestrian Churches"), which extends to Montescaglioso, which has more rustic caves.  For cave art, call for appointment at Crypt of Original Sin, 320-535-0910.


Where to Eat

  • Le Botteghe - Piazza San Pietro Barisano 22, 083-534-4072, great charcoal-grilled steak and also pastas, "one of the finest pieces of meat in the region" says Fodor's also rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Chowhound readers, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Veronelli, Michelin, and TCI, ~€25-30.
  • Le Lucanerie - via Santo Stefano 61, 083-533-2133, excellent food, especially antipasti and desserts, ~€30-50, rec'd by blogger (and sequel), another blog, Fodor's, Panorama, Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Veronelli, Michelin, and TCI.
  • Il Cantuccio - via delle Beccherie 33, 083-533-2090, closed Mon, homemade bread, pastas, and desserts, local specialties, ~€25-30, fixed price €30, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, and TCI.
  • San Pietro Barisano - Rione San Biagio 52, Sasso Barisano, 083-534-6191, closed Mon, in converted Sassi, excellent ingredients for local food, ~€35, €15 fixed price, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, also rent 5 rooms.
  • Nadi - via Fiorentini 1/3, 083-533-2892, 339-601-0828, in a cave, good fava puree says Fodor's, also rec'd by Slow Travel reader
  • Del Corso - via Luigi La Vista 12, 083-533-2892, cheap, "gorge yourself for a pittance in the company of discerning locals" says Cadogan.
  • Basilico - via San Francesco 33, 083-533-6540, cheap, good pizza and other rustic plates, also rent rooms, closed Fri, ~€18-22 rec'd by Cadogan and Michelin.
  • Oi Mari - good pizza
  • Alle Fornaci - Piazza Firrao 7, 083-533-5037, closed Mon, seafood, rec'd by Espresso, ~€30-40, €25 fixed price.
  • Baccanti - via Sant'Angelo 58/61, 083-533-3704, closed Sun eve, Mon, modern restaurant rec'd byu Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Veronelli, and TCI, ~€30-60.
  • Da Mario - via XX Settembre 14, 083-533-6491, closed Sun, local food or pizza in an old palace, rec'd by Veronelli, ~€30, fixed price €15.
  • Diciannovesima Buca (19th Mouth) - via Lombardi 3, 083-533-3592, closed Mon, enoteca and restaurant in Sasso, also has virtual golf (?!), ~€30-35, rec'd by Espresso and Veronelli.
  • Hotel del Campo le Spighe - via Lucrezio, 083-538-8844, good local food, garden terrace, also rent rooms, ~€40, rec'd by Michelin and TCI.
  • Il Casino del Diavolo - via La Martella, 083-526-1986, closed Mon, rec'd by Panorama, Michelin, TCI.
  • Il Terrazzino - off Piazza Veneto, very expensive, rec'd by Cadogan
  • Il Castello - via Castello 1, 083-533-3752, cheap, good orecchiette with mushrooms and sausage, closed Wed, rec'd by Cadogan.
  • La Cucina Casareccia - via S. Cesarea, 083-534-4101, closed Sun eve, Mon, rec'd by TCI.
  • La Latteria - via Duni 2, 083-531-2058, rec'd by Alice, cheap.
  • Lucana - via Lucana 48, 083-533-6117, moderate trattoria with local favorites, Cadogan rec's the antipasti della casa.
  • La Stalla Arte e Mestiere - via Rosario 78, 083-524-0455, in a cave, ~€25-30, €20 fixed price, rec'd by Slow Travel reader and TCI.
  • Rivelli - via Casalnuovo 27, 083-531-1568, closed Mon, Sun night, in a Sasso, regional food, ~€35, €25 fixed price menu, rec'd by Espresso.  Also run "La Fattoria" at via Tagliamento 12, 083-530-7414.
  • Trattoria del Caveoso - via Buozzi 21, 083-531-2374, closed Sun eve, Mon, rec'd by TCI.
  • Trattoria Lucana - via Lucana 48, 083-533-6117, closed Sun, ~€25, rec'd by Panorama, Michelin, and TCI.
  • Osteria Al Vicinata - via Fiorentini 58, Sasso Barisano, 083-534-4180, Frommer's says it's one of the "most memorable meals in southern Italy" thanks to its eccentric chef who serves up authentic local dishes.
  • Caffè Vittorio Veneto - Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 329-234-5815, good coffee and gelato says Slow Travel reader, although it is expensive  Another online reviewer says they have the "best spremuta d'arancia in Italy"...but we weren't that impressed (it's a bit expensive).

Where to Stay

  • Locanda di San Martino - via Fiorentini 71, Sasso Barisano, 40°40'01"N 16°36'30"E,  083-525-6600, semi-luxurious (A/C, etc.) converted sassi for reasonable prices, great location, also has a thermal spa with hottub/cave pool/sauna, nice breakfast, rec'd by Frommer's, good reviews online.
  • Hotel Sant'Angelo - Piazza San Pietro Caveoso, 083-531-4010, Fodor's rec's, used to be cave dwellings but fixed up (A/C, hip design); also has a restaurant (Regia Corte).
  • Basiliani Hotel - Rione Casalnuovo 115, 083-319-474, 328-532-3072, (GPS coordinates on their website are wrong), hyper-modern interiors in these rennovated Sassi
  • Hotel Sassi - via San Giovanni Vecchio, 083-533-1009, also rents a few cave rooms amongst their offerings, rec'd by Cadogan.
  • Piccolo Albergo - via di Sariis 11, 083-533-0201, moderate option rec'd by Cadogan
  • Italia - via Ridola 5, 083-533-3561, pleasant, moderate option with some views over the Sassi rec'd by Cadogan.
  • Le Monacelle - via Riscatto 9/10, 083-534-4097, has dorm beds and doubles, rec'd by Frommer's.

Other Sights

  • Pietrapertosa and Castelmezzano - medieval villages selected as some of the "most beautiful towns in Italy" near the Dolomiti Lucane (Lucanian Dolomites) in the Regional Park of Gallipoli Cognato.  (rec'd restaurants: Al Becco della Civetta in Castelmezzano [especially rec'd by chowhounds...this is more or less on the way between Naples & Matera or Puglia] and Grotta dell'Eremita).  Also rec'd: Volo dell'Angelo (Flight of the Angel) zipline between Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa, 400 meters tall, 120 km/hr!
  • Pollino National Park - the largest national park in Italy, this includes the peak of Monte Pollino (2248m)
  • Maratea - a seaside resort town with cliffs dividing up various neighborhoods, "as beautiful as the Amalfi coast, but without the traffic" says one traveller.
    • Taverna Rovita - via Rovita 13, 097-387-6588, traditional recipes and fresh seafood, a bit expensive though, rec'd by Fodor's and Cadogan
    • La Torre - Largo Immacolata 097-387-6227, most popular trattoria in the historic center, cheap, rec'd by Cadogan

Resources