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Amalfi Coast

Contents

  1. 1 Getting to Amalfi
  2. 2 Positano
    1. 2.1 Places to Eat
  3. 3 Amalfi
    1. 3.1 Sights and Activities
    2. 3.2 Places to Eat
  4. 4 Ravello
  5. 5 Minori & Maiori
  6. 6 Vietri sul Mare & Cetara
  7. 7 Praiano
  8. 8 Furore
  9. 9 Vietri sul Mare
  10. 10 Cava de' Tirreni
  11. 11 Salerno
    1. 11.1 Places to Eat
  12. 12 Hiking
The coast from Punta della Campanella to Salerno, the Costiera Amalfitana (Amalfi Coast), is surely one of the most beautiful in the world.  It features a string of pictoresque towns perched on cliffs leading up to the Monti Lattari (Milky Mountains).

Getting to Amalfi

  • Car - Take A3 south (towards Salerno); you can approach the coast from the north/west, by going through Sorrento, although the most straightforward way is to take the road from the south/east (getting off on the Angri exit).  Obviously this depends on how long you want to take the thrilling yet taxing coastal drive, and where you are going on the coast.
  • Ferry - During the summer, Metro del Mare runs ferry lines to and from Naples, and ferry companies run boats between the major towns.  See the transport page's ferry section for more information.
  • Bus - There are SITA busses that run from Sorrento or Salerno; you can take the train to either place (Circumvesuviana to Sorrento, or normal trains to Salerno) and then transfer.

Positano

One of the most scenic towns on the coast, Positano is entirely built on a cliff.  At night, the hottest spot is Music on the Rocks, or head to nearby Praiano for Night Club Africana, built into a cave.  If you need a place to stay for cheap, Hostel Brikette is highly rated; those looking for classier apartments/hotel rooms have much more to choose from.

Places to Eat

  • Da Adolfo Di Bello Sergio - a beach/restaurant that you get to either by 500 steps from the cliff or via a boat from Positano's harbor.  Excellent seafood lunch. www.daadolfo.com, excellent Frommer's review.  Laurito Beach/Via Laurito 40, 089-875-022.
  • La Tagliata - Italian fare with a very striking view looking down the profile of the amalfi coast, from slightly east and above Positano.  About a 10min drive from the exit down into Positano.  Very good primi and dolce.  €35 for a full-course meal with wine. www.latagliata.com, Via Tagliata 22, Positano SA 84017, 089-875-872.
  • Il Ritrovo - in Montepertuso, up the hill from Positano on via Montepertuso 77, 89-812-005, 89-875-453, www.ilritrovo.com.  Rec'd by Alice and Fodor's; also offers cooking courses.
  • Santa Croce - in Nocelle, up the hill from Positano, #19, TCI and Frommer's recommend this nice spot to eat for its hand-made positano-style fusili and beautiful view; 30-35 all-inclusive lunch deals.
  • Saraceno d'Oro - Viale Pastitea 254, 089-812-050, rec'd by Michelin, good seafood pastas at reasonable prices.

Amalfi

Once the capital of a prosperous maritime republic (in fact, the Amalfi cross joins the symbols of Pisa, Venice, and Genoa on the Italian naval ensign), Amalfi has a splendid cathedral, paper making factories, and beautiful hikes.

Sights and Activities

  • Duomo di Amalfi (Cathedral): unfortunately you have to pay to get in; it features a serene cloister, various artifacts, and the crypt of Sant'Andrea (St. Andrew, whose remains were Shanghaied from Constantinople during the Crusades).
  • Museo della Carta (Paper Museum): an old 13th-century paper mill has now become a museum; Amalfi has a long tradition of making beautiful handcrafted paper (a good, easy-to-transport souvenir/gift).  To get there, walk up the main road away from the sea; eventually the tacky tourist shops thin out, and you'll see the paper museum on the left.  Via delle Cartiere 23, 089-830-4561, 10-6:30, closed Sun, from Nov-Feb closes at 3:30 and closes Mon instead of Sun.  Two working mills: Cartiera Amatruda (Via Marino del Giudice, 089-871315) and Antonio Cavaliere (Via Fiume, 089-871954).
  • Museo Civico: museum that includes the Tabula Amalphitana, the maritime code that Amalfi used to rule the Mediterranean.  M-F 8-1, free.
  • Arsenale Marinaro: the old shipyard of the Republic of Amalfi.  9-8, closed Oct-Easter, free.
  • Hiking: a number of hikes lead from Amalfi; see Hiking, below.
  • Beaches: Amalfi has a number of pay beaches, but you can also walk about 15 minutes to nearby Atrani's public beach.

Places to Eat

  • Gelato: Bar Savoia (looks like "davoia"), Piazza Flavio Gioia (on the water as you enter town), 089-871-426.  A nice range of flavors, as well as excellent candies and pastries.
  • Maccus - inexpensive local favorite not far from the Duomo, tucked away in a serene courtyard away from the tourists; simple but excellent food; Time Out especially recommends the polpino (octopus) salad; also rec'd by Veronelli.  Largo Santa Maria Maggiore 1, 089-873-6385, www.maccusamalfi.it.  12-3, 7-11:30pm, closed Mon, Nov.  To get there, walk away from the Duomo/sea on the main road, and look for signs to "Maccus" on one of the little alleyways/stairs leading to the right.
  • Da Maria - one of the best of the cheaper trattorie/pizzerie in Amalfi, recommended by Time Out, Cadogan, and Let's Go.  Via Lorenza d'Amalfi 14, 089-871-880, 12-3, 7-11:30pm, closed Mon, Nov.
  • Trattoria Rispoli - in Pogerola (a town up the hill to the NW of Amalfi), Via Riulo 3, 089-830-080, closed Th except summer, Slow Food and TCI recommend this inexpensive place for its great home-cooked meals, including good seafood pastas.
  • Tarì - Cheap trattoria north of the Duomo, recommended by Cadogan.  Via P. Capuano, 089-871-832, closed Tues.
  • Il Mulino - Cheap, up the hill so less tourists, recommended by Cadogan.  Via delle Cartiere 36, 089-872-223, closed Mon.
  • Da Baracca - Cadogan says "this is everything an Italian trattoria should be"; cheap.  Piazza dei Dogi, 089-871-285, closed Wed, Jan-Feb.
  • San Giuseppe - Noisy but cheap and good, recommended by Cadogan and Frommer's (which calls it a "down-to-earth...real local hangout").  Via Ruggiero II 4, 089-872-640, closed Thurs, Feb.
  • Il Chiostro - near Duomo, recommended by Let's Go.
  • Donna Stella Pizzeria - only open for dinner, recommended by Let's Go.
  • Eolo - Moderately priced restaurant with good seafood, simple decor, recommended by Frommer's.  Via Pantaleone Comite 3, 089-871-241, 12:30-3, 7:30-10:30, closed Tues, Jan-Feb.
  • Da Gemma - somewhat expensive priced popular restaurant with view of Duomo, both seafood and land favorites, recommended by Time Out, Frommer's, and Cadogan; especially recommended is the zuppa di pesce and melanzane al cioccolato.  Via Fra'Gerardo Sasso 10, 089-871-345.  12:30-2:30, 7:30-10:30, closed Wed, Jan-Feb.
  • La Caravella - expensive (~€70-80/person) but famed to be Amalfi's best restaurant, recommended by Time Out, Frommer's, and Cadogan.  Via Matteo Camera 12, 089-871-029, www.ristorantelacaravella.it.  12-2:30 7:30-10:30, closed Tues and Nov-Dec.
  • Eolo - via Comite 3, 089-871-241, also expensive but rec'd by Panorama, Espresso, TCI, Gambero Rosso, and Michelin.
  • A Paranza (in Atrani) - relatively inexpensive, excellent seafood and homemade desserts near the main square, recommended by Time Out, Gambero Rosso, Slow Food, Veronelli, Michelin, Frommer's, and Chowhounders.  Traversa Dragone 2 in Atrani, 089-871-840.  12:30-3, 7:30-mid, closed Tues Sept-June.
  • Le Arcate (in Atrani) - nice family-run place rec'd by Alice, Luogo Orlando Buonocore 1, 089-871-367, closed Mon.
Places to Stay
  • Albergo Sant'Andrea - cheap and central; small rooms but good A/C, etc; rec'd by Fodor's (who say "this may be the best bargain in all Italy")

Ravello

Home of the famous Music Festival, this hilltop town has beautiful views and designer shops.
  • Cumpa Cosimo is a no-nonsense trattoria that serves good, cheap food--Mama Cosimo make sure you leave full and happy (recommended by Rick Steves, Time Out, and Cadogan) 12-3:30, 7-10, Via Roma 44, 089-857-156.
  • Vittoria, off the main piaz relatively reasonable prices, rec'd by Cadogan's.
  • Ettore Sammarco is a winery recommended by Slow Food for having some of the best "everyday wines", especially their Bianco Terre Saracene (Via Civita 9, 089-872-774)
  • in Scala (a town further uphill), Espresso rec's Lorenzo, Via Fra Gerardo Sasso 21, 089-858-290, ~€40-45.

Minori & Maiori

Two small towns down the coast from Amalfi and Atrani, which offer good food and cheaper accommodations than the more touristy parts of the coast.  Maiori has larger beaches but less soul (most of its historic center was wiped out by a flood in the 50's).  Minori has a nice basilica and some Roman ruins (the Villa Romana)...every July they host the Jazz on the Coast festival.
  • Bar Riso - Piazza Cantilena 1, Minori, 089-877-396, one of the most renowned pastry shops on the coast (if not the region)
  • Il Giardiniello - Corso Vittorio Emanuele 17, Minori, 089-877-060, closed Nov-Jan and Wed except high season, rec'd by Frommer's and Michelin for good seafood and pizzas.
  • La Botte - Via Santa Maria Vetrano 15, Minori, 089-877-893, closed Jan, Tues except in summer, Alice and Frommer's rec's this "find" with fresh pasta and rustic setting near the Villa Romana; inexpensive.
  • L'Arsenale - Via San Giovanni a Mare 20, Minori, 089-851-418, closed Jan/Feb and Thurs, Frommer's rec's this place for creative dishes and for those who are tired of fish (as they also offer meat options).
  • Mammato - Lungomare Amendola / Via Arsenale 6, Maiori, 089-877-036, closed Nov, Tues except summer, Alice and Frommer's rec's this "no-frills" place that is popular with locals; also rents rooms.
  • Il Faro di Capo d'Orso - restaurant in Maiori, expensive but rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, TCI.

Vietri sul Mare & Cetara

Near the south of the Amalfi coast, just off A3, Vietri sul Mare is known for its ceramic shops.  A little ways "up" the coast (actually southwest) is the very cute fishing town of Cetara, known for its anchovies and tuna (every year there is the Sagra del Tonno, or Tuna Festival); CIao Amalfi has some great photos of Cetara.
  • ##Al Convento - Piazza San Francesco 16, Cetara, 089-261-039, closed Wed [Tues??], in a renovated convent, beautiful terrace in the summer, a great place to try the famous Cetara anchovies and tuna, highly recommended by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin, TCI, Veronelli, Chowhounders and Ciao Amalfi; ~€30-40.  They also offer cooking classes.
  • San Pietro - Piazza San Francesco 2, Cetara, 089-261-091, closed Tues in off season, small place which serves whatever's fresh that day, rec'd by Chowhounders, Frommer's, Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, and Michelin; ~€40-60.
  • Acquapazza - Corso Garibaldi 36, Cetara, 089-261-606, rec'd by Frommer's as an elegant but small place serving local fish and high cuisine; also rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, TCI.
  • Tramonti is another town in the mountains, in this case between Minori/Maiori and Naples
    • Antichi Sapori
    • Osteria Reale

Praiano

Between Positano and Amalfi.
  • Trattoria San Gennaro Pizzeria.  Very good pizza, pasta and seafood.  Great service and servers that speak Italian, English, German and French.   http://www.ilsangennaro.it/, Info: +39-08-987-4293 or +39-333-611-3801, parking lot is at 40.61256N 14.52253E
  • La Brace - Via Capriglione 146, 089-874-226, closed Wed, rec'd by Michelin, fixed price meals start at €16; a la carte ~€35-50.
  • Locanda Costa Diva - Via roma 39, 089-813-1218, rec'd by TCI, ~€30-50.

Furore

A little town between Praiano and Conca dei Marini (between Positano and Amalfi), known for its "Fiordo" (Fjord), at about 40.61399N 14.55423E, where a deep chasm has been shaped by the river emptying into the sea; a bridge crosses over the Fiordo for the coast road.  The vista was used in the 1948 film L'Amore.
  • Hostaria di Baccio - Via Lama 9, 089-830-360, nice view of the Fiordo, rec'd by Espresso, Michelin, and TCI, ~€35-45 not including drinks.
  • Marisa Cuomo (Winery) - Via Lama 16-18, 089-830-348, her wines were selected by Slow Food as some of the best "everyday wines" in the region

Vietri sul Mare

Known for its ceramics, this is the first coastal town one comes to if one takes A3 from Naples, and the last town before one reaches Salerno.
  • Dal Pescatore
  • La Playa
  • La Sosta
  • Pascalò
  • Sapore di Mare

Cava de' Tirreni

On the road (A3) between Naples and Vietri sul Mare, this town spreads out across the valley.
  • L'Arcara - Via Lambiase 7, 089-345-177, closed Mon, dinner only except Sundays, 1800's building with nice garden, menu changes each day, ~€28-38, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
  • Taverna Scacciaventi - Corso Umberto I 38/52, 089-443-173, closed Mon, family-friendly trattoria, rec'd by Espresso and TCI, ~€30-35.
  • Pappacarbone - Via rosario Senatore 30, 089-466-441, closed Mon, Sun dinner, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, TCI, €50-70.

Salerno

A large town at the southern end of the Amalfi Coast, it is more busy and dirty but still offers some cool sights (such as its Duomo [cathedral], which hosts the relics of St. Matthew) and nice, cheap places to eat and stay.  Also has a nice lungomare (seaside walk).

Places to Eat

  • Hostaria Il Brigante dal 1985 - a stone's throw away from the Duomo, this super-cheap eatery features fresh specials (including awesome seafood) from a hand-written menu.  Don't miss it!  Via Fratelli Linguiti 4, 089-226-592, closed Mon.  Rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia; cheap (~€15-20).
  • Ostaria Canali - Via Canali 34, 338-807-0174, in centro storico, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, ~€25-35
  • [In Giffoni Sei Casali, a hilltown ~30 min NE of Salerno, there is another Brigante rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, at Via Andoli 2, Località Sieti, 089-881-854, 328-359-2987, only open for dinner except Sundays, ~€20-23]

Hiking

There are excellent hikes throughout the Amalfi Coast, thanks to the Monti Lattari plunging into the blue Tyrrhenian Sea below.  Here are some of the best:

  • View from the Walk of the Gods
    Il Sentiero degli Dei (The Walk of the Gods).  This fantastic hike plunges from the hill town of Bomerano (a section of Agerola) down to picturesque Positano, which is even more beautiful when viewed from the cliffs above.  There is some disagreement over the exact route, but all the versions of the hike start off in the Bomerano piazza (which features a gelateria with the best peach gelato ever and a wonderful hotel called Hotel Gentile that offers reasonably-priced rooms with breakfast and dinner included, 081-879-1041, 40°37.8'N 014°32.4'E).  To get to Bomerano by public transit, you have to take a bus from Amalfi.  Alas, if you're staying in Bomerano, no buses run direct from Positano back to Bomerano (you have to transfer in Amalfi)--however, in the summer you can take a ferry from Positano to Amalfi, and then hop on the bus back to Bomerano.  Be sure to keep track of the ferry & bus schedules, though, because taxis can be quite expensive!  (Check out the SITA website for bus schedules--Quadro 13 is the one from Amalfi to Agerola/Bomerano.)  Giovis.com has a good description of the hike, as does Hotel Onda Verde's website.
  • Amalfi - Pontone - Amalfi.  
    Recommended by Rick Steves, this starts in Amalfi near the Paper Museum.  From the Paper Museum, walk across the street and go up the ramp; take the stairs on the left just before the school courtyard.  These stairs eventually parallel the Amalfi river (which in many cases is diverted into a canal along the cobblestones, so you have the refereshing sound of running water along the way), and then winds its way into shaded woods past the ruins of several paper mills in the aptly named Vallone dei Mulini (Valley of the Mills).  Eventually the trail leads up to the Vallone delle Ferriere (Valley of the Iron Mills) and then to the town of Pontone...take the stairs back to Amalfi (with an optional detour to Torre dello Ziro with its beautiful view).  Try the Trattoria l'Antico Borgo in Pontone, which offers awesome food with an even better view (rec'd by Rick Steves, Via Noce 4, 089-871-469).
  • Amalfi - Atrani - Ravello.  This hike is easier in the reverse direction from Ravello (as it is downhill); you can take a bus to Ravello and then hike back.  Atrani is a tiny town just next to Amalfi; access it by heading east and then finding the stairs/signs to Atrani.  There is a very steep trail that leads up to Ravello from Atrani.

    View from Pontone
  • Monte Sant'Angelo a Tre Pizzi - the highest peak of the Monti Lattari, above Positano.  Start at the Guardia Forestale (Italian Ranger) station in Positano, or from the village of Santa Maria del Castello.
  • Via degli Incanti ("Trail of Charms").  Relatively easy, but long trail (all the way from Amalfi to Positano, 25 km) so most do only a section.  From Amalfi, walk down Via Maestra and then follow the signs.  Slightly easier starting from the Positano side.
For more information, check out Positano.com's list of treks and walks, Giovanni Visetti (giovis.com)'s excellent descriptions, and (in Italian) the Associazione il Chianiello's route guides.  Various maps are also available: