Deccani Women's Clothing

Deccani women's clothing was clearly descended from native Indian fashion, whereas men's clothing is very Mughal in nature. The reason for this divide is unclear, however one hypothesis is that many Muslim men, who conquered the area and founded the sultanates of the Deccan, married Hindu wives and welcomed or tolerated the Indian style the women preferred.Women's clothing requires very little in the way of sewing, as the typical outfit is composed of a choli and a sari. The trick to making the sari look correct is how it is draped.

Choli

    • A midriff-baring, short-sleeved top. Often it is open in the back.

        • Dinah's choli pattern

            • This is one of my favorites, as it is very easy to put together. The big trick is to tuck the crossed-over parts UNDER your breasts, as it creates an area of gathering that helps the choli fit properly. Do NOT stitch the two sides together at the center front.

            • Do not include apron

        • Master Rashid's choli pattern and easy choli pattern

        • Cholis also tend to be readily available at various merchants at Pennsic.

Sari

    • Use the Gujarati drape shown on page 5 of the handout attached at the end of this page. The standard nivi wrap taught by Indian women everywhere would also be appropriate. By pulling the pallu up over the head and tucking it in on the right side of the waist, you can create a more authentic Deccani look.

    • Many saris are sold as "Art Silk". "Art silk" is nothing like real silk, and is usually rayon or polyester. Do try and find a sari in a natural fiber.

    • Avoid paisleys and obviously modern patterns. Small, regularly spaced florals are fine. Mistress Lakshmi has a nice page with an overview of a few different sari types. And of course, I'd be happy to go shopping with you at Pennsic and hold your hand.

    • A NOTE ABOUT COLORS

        • Modern saris are typically sold with a "blouse piece" that is often the same color as the sari, or co-ordinates with the border of the sari. I have yet to see any examples of this Garanimals-style theory of color-coordinating an outfit in Indian fashion of any era. Those medieval Indians LOVED to mix things up.

        • HOWEVER, one should not go about mixing cholis and saris together willy-nilly. Medieval Indians tended to stay in the same saturation range through an outfit if they were mixing hues. So you'll see a blue sari with red borders with a green choli; all jewel tones.

        • The exception seems to be mucking about with saturation levels of the same hues. So you'll see a pink choli with a red sari (or vice versa) or a dark blue choli with a lighter blue sari.

Have I told you too much? Are you freaking out? Well don't! This is supposed to be fun. If you're not having fun, let me know, and we'll try and get you to a place where you are.

Hairstyle

    • Long braid with tassel

    • Pulled back in a bun

Footwear

    • Deccani women are often shown barefoot. However, we all know that it is somewhat foolish to go traipsing around Pennsic barefoot.

        • A simple, unobtrustive leather sandal with flat heels would be suitable. Toe-ring, thong, and t-strap styles, or their equivalent, are all seen in Indian footwear at various points in the medieval period.

        • Slipper-style shoes are also appropriate, with or without a pointed toe.

Jewelry

    • Wear some. Indians did and still do adore jewelry.

        • Bangles

        • Big earrings

        • Pearl strands