Buddhist Choli
Originally posted 7/28/01
The original idea for this project began when I happened across a picture of a Buddhist altarpiece from Madhya Pradesh, circa 800 CE. I found it immediately interesting, as I had originally been told that cholis were an Islamic introduction to Indian fashion.
From only seeing the front views, it is easy to assume that these are constructed in the open-back style that is still commonly seen today in the cholis of various tribal communities in India.
The back view of the center figure is what originally made me start questioning the method of construction of these cholis. Given the amount of detail Indian sculptors have included elsewhere on this piece, it seemed unusual that they would sculpt it as having a solid back if it did not. This led to my original theory that the cholis were of a basic t-tunic shape, with lacing or ties along the sides.
It was to my delight that I found a picture among those from the Ajanta Caves depicting a woman with her back mostly turned to the viewer, and her arms raised. The back of her light-blue choli is solid, and lacing (much like that seen on European bliauts) can be seen along the side and underarm.
Given that both these piece of information came from Buddhist artworks, I've decided to refer to this pattern style as the Buddhist Choli.
Although it can be assumed that the sculptors and painters took some liberty with the form-fitting qualities of these garments, I have opted to attempt to apply the t-tunic patterning on the bias of the fabric, to allow for more moldability. While still not as closely fitting as a more structured garment, it creates what I would consider a reasonable approximation.
If you are unfamiliar with what "bias" is, I would suggest taking a look at Mistress Laurellen's Fun with Bias article before starting on this pattern.
(Pictures forthcoming)
45" wide fabric
cut square
fold along bias (you should have a perfect triangle)
fold triangle once more
cut neckhole notches
trace t-shape onto fabric
You'll probably need to cut the neckhole notches a little deeper at this point. I'd recommend starting by not cutting more than 4 inches down the front center line, and one inch down either of the shoulder lines. Try to cut the back center line as little as possible (i usually start with only about 1/2"). Cut the front center and shoulder lines only until you can get your head through. You can adjust the neckline later.
Put your swell new poncho over your head. At this point you will really want an extra pair of hands.
Start by pinning the front and back underarms on either side together. Then proceed to pin down the sides. Dont try making it fitted yet, just get the seams pinned together.
Once this is done, you're ready for the serious fitting part. Start pulling in the sides, making sure to keep both right and left side even. You'll probably need to do some mammarical adjustments during this process (a good reason we leave the arm-pinning til last), as you want to make the fit as tight as possible to be supportive. It's okay to pull extra off the back, just make sure that you pull the same amount off the other side.
Once you have the bodice part fitted to your liking, go ahead and pin the sleeves to fit.
Mark all your pinning lines front AND back with a dark marker.
Remove pins.
Take the garment off, and trim it down, leaving as much space out from the pinning lines as you want for whatever type of eyelets or loops you'll be using.
Testing:
Cut tiny (1/4") holes along both front and back sides, all the way up through the arm seams. If you have a good sewing machine that can do small buttonholes quickly, it would be worthwhile to use it for this step.
Lace a heavy-duty yarn, ribbon or shoelace through these, and try the garment on again. Don't try and lace it too tightly, as you dont want to tear your "quickie holes". Check it for fit, re-pin if needed, and once you have it looking right, go ahead and cut the neckhole out in whatever shape you want. Be sure to leave enough seam allowance for whatever binding/facing you want to use.
I'd recommend sewing a 1" facing along the inside of where all the lacing holes/loops will go. Few of us like wearing exploding shirts.
Once you have this pattern, you can also adjust it to make backless cholis, by sewing rather than lacing the side seams together, and cutting the back out for ties or lacing. Keep in mind, however, that different fabrics have different flexibilities along the bias. It is always a good idea to use a fabric for your test pattern that is fairly close to what you will be using for your final fabric. Although the lacing along the sides or back will allow for some difference in the flexibility of fabrics, having to do countless readjustments every time you make a choli can be a real pain in the butt.
References:
'A Buddhist Altarpiece' Madhya Pradesh, Sirpur; c. 800 in "Indian Sculpture Vol. 2", auth, P. Pal, Los Angeles County Museum of Art & University of California Press, Los Angeles, pp. 26, 106-107'
Various paintings' Maharashtra, Aurangabad ; c. 300-700 in "The Ajanta Caves", auth. B. Behl, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., New York, pp. 106, 217, 225
'Various paintings' Karnataka, Mysore; c. 12th century in "South Indian Paintings", auth C. Sivaramamurti, National Museum, New Delhi, pp. 73-74