buying equipment

Are you looking for new equipment? Look no further, we can help you with just about all you need. Though we do not have a shop for you to visit, we work closely with "Diving Express" and directly with some suppliers.

Members can get BIG discounts at Diving Express Ltd when purchasing through the Sandy Bottom Divers club. They stock all major brands and have the most popular items in stock.

Check out the "used gear for sale" and " new gear promotion" pages for good deals.

So what to buy first, why and what to consider.

Mask and snorkel

these two items won't break the bank, easy to pack so any "beach holiday" you can bring it along.

Things to consider: single lens vs 2 lenses, traditional or "low-volume. For a mask, it's probably best to just to grab one that you like, try it on and buy it if it fits well and comfortably. there is hardly any difference in quality so no problems there. Unlike with other equipment, higher prizes usually don't mean "higher end" product.

For those who wear contact/glasses, you got more to think about. For one, do you want prescription lenses, use contacts and get a normal mask or get a normal mask and "stick your prescription" onto the inner side of the lens(es). The choice of masks with prescription lenses obviously not as big, same goes for people with a big and/or high nose!!. See the article re "Corrective lenses" for more details.

Exposure suit

A good fit is important, so you're comfortable and stay warm. Too tight, it will hurt or restrict blood flow, too loose and you'll get cold. A wetsuit that is too big allows water to flush in-out easier which not only will cool you down, it will also allow any jelly-fish and/or sea-lice to go with it (into your suit ! ). Furthermore, you'll know it's clean and you don't have to worry what rental gear you'll be given.

Buying a quality 3mm wetsuit is a good start. When diving in colder water you can then add things like: thermal top, hooded vest, 3 or 5mm shorty etc etc.

Obviously if you dive in colder waters you might want to start with a 5mm wetsuit, semi-dry or even a dry-suit. Like wise for tropical waters, you might not want 3mm full suit and look for a shorty or a "skin suit". The latter is about 1mm thick, light weight and fast drying. protects against jelly fish !!!

When trying-on a wetsuit for size, it has to be a bit tight, just so that you think it's juuuuuuuuuuuuuust a bit too small. Once in the water it will "loosen" a bit and be just right.

Be aware of diff sizes with diff brands. The suit that you want might not be available in your size !!!!

Dive- computer / Dive-watch

Possibly one of the more expensive items of your dive kit, especially if you opt for a high-end model with integrated tank pressure gauge (and transmitter)

Think about "user-replaceable battery", dive-computer vs dive-watch, size of buttons (bigger ones better if you use gloves and/or got big hands/fingers and size of display (can you read it?)

buying a dive computer is like buying a phone and/or laptop, it's "what do you need vs what do you like".

when looked after, it will last for the duration of your "dive life". Buy what you eventually want instead of a cheapy as a first.

Regulator set

Like the dive computer, when well maintained it will last your entire "dive-life"

To consider are things like; size of second stage (dead space), breathing effort, configuration and ease of getting parts/maintenance. When in the Asia-Pacific region Scubapro will be very well represented, in Australia and UK it would be Oceanic, Sherwood in US, Mares in Europe etc etc. It does NOT say anything about quality though. All of these are of good quality, just like Apeks, Seac, SAS etc etc

What do you like? Small size, light weight, availability of parts/maintenance etc etc.

Will you use "Enriched Air Nitrox", and if so would you in dive in Europe (needs to be compatible with 100% O2 !!!)

Configuration issues;

- octopus alternate air source left- or right shoulder ?

- Maybe no octopus but a pony bottle/spareAir instead ?

- alternate on your inflator hose instead of an octopus ?

Important to keep in mind is what it takes to keep a life-time warranty on your regulator. Mares and Scubapro for instance require an annual servicing, this will costs you about HKD 800-ish eaxh year !!!

Titanium and carbon fibres are light weight but has its cons too.

Sherwood however requires a bi-annual servicing and you get your parts for free !!! A very BIG difference in costs. Having said this, unfortunately too many people don't bother with regular maintenance. Very questionable considering it's what helps keep you alive when underwater !

BCD

Jacket style, back-plate or.

- Jacket style BCD is most likely what you used during your initial training. Simple, cheap and keep you face-up on the surface. Available with- or with out weight pockets.

- "back-inflation" style BCD has all the air/inflation on your back. no squeeze around your waist, and less bulk up front. Available with- or with out weight pockets.

- back-plate BCD consists of a plate (carbon fibre, titanium, aluminium or stainless steel) with a bladder and tank strap(s). Even less clutter but a lot more to think about. Is the "back plate" heavy enough (if not you'll need weight belt and/or pockets extra), no quick release system and heavier to travel with. The latter could be an issue for those who need MORE than the usual 20 kg allowance !!!!!

Ideally you'll have tried a BCD in the water before you buy it. So if you are using rental gear, try to use diff models and brands as much as you can. Ask friends ,and others, whether you can "test dive" their BCD. Buying a BCD that doesn't turn out to be that comfortable would be a costly mistake.

Like with wetsuits, a good and comfy fit is important, don't take the sales-person's word for it!!

Fins

Ideally you'll have tried the fins in the water before you buy it. So if you are using rental gear, try to use diff models and brands as much as you can. Ask friends ,and others, whether you can "test dive" their fins, snorkelling will be different so it's gotta be underwater.

open heel fins are heavier and more expensive, especially with the added need for booties. However, no problems with chafing on heel, no problems walking/wading to the boat and extra (thermal-) protection.

the type of fins; split, stiff,//flexible, short/long etc etc you need depends on your kicking style (i.e. frog kick or "from the hip"). Do you really need that POWER you read in the ads? Most likely not for most of us recreational divers.

Dive Lights

Accessories

- SMB / DSMB

- Compass

- Knife / shears

- Dive bag

Suppliers that the SBD directly deal with, and as such get even bigger discounts, are:

dive gear and accessories: Genesis, Sherwood and XS Scuba

accessories: Akona, Doc'sProplugs, Innovative Scuba Concepts, Ocean Reef, Safe Sea, Sea Hornet and Underwater Kinetics (dive lights and accessories)