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Kintsugi District
EXPOSURE:SW - Once in the sun it stays in the sun.
Summer sun hits around 11am. Excellent climbing in the winter.
38°45'49.8"N 120°16'41.2"W
This wall is named after the is the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery… Kintsugi.
Steep, long and technical lines.
Awesome throne belay if TRing some of the routes.
TR can be set up from walking around the north side. There is a boulder with 2 bolts you can use to rap and access climbs on the wall. It is not the easiest endeavor, and be careful if folks are below.
Route Details
(Dont forget the drop down)
1) 5.11 Operation Urgent Fury
Sport / TR
6? Bolts + Equipped Anchor
20m?
FA: 12/8/24 Will Botta
1) 5.11 Operation Urgent Fury
Sport / TR
6? Bolts + Equipped Anchor
20m?
FA: 12/8/24 Will Botta
Will's first route addition to The Eagle is a superb effort. Such an aesthetic line that begs to be climbed.
Will's description below.
Will's first route addition to The Eagle is a superb effort. Such an aesthetic line that begs to be climbed.
Will's description below.
Scramble up the slab to reach the first bolt at the base of the overhang. Wrestle through the next few moves and commit to the lie-back. Find your way up the seam with tricky feet until it ends. Exit left to the chains.
Scramble up the slab to reach the first bolt at the base of the overhang. Wrestle through the next few moves and commit to the lie-back. Find your way up the seam with tricky feet until it ends. Exit left to the chains.
2) 5.10+ Bobby Sled
Sport / TR
12 Bolts + Equipped Anchor
30m
FA: Mike Rogers 6/21
2) 5.10+ Bobby Sled
Sport / TR
12 Bolts + Equipped Anchor
30m
FA: Mike Rogers 6/21
If Silver Eagle in its short life can have classic routes....this is one of them. Low angle start leads to 2 roof/bulges then onto the upper steep slab section with some fun jamming and liebacking. Some find crux to be around the bulges, others, the upper slab.
This line would find itself right at home in Yosemite. Likely could go on tiny gear, but could be pretty spicy.
If Silver Eagle in its short life can have classic routes....this is one of them. Low angle start leads to 2 roof/bulges then onto the upper steep slab section with some fun jamming and liebacking. Some find crux to be around the bulges, others, the upper slab.
This line would find itself right at home in Yosemite. Likely could go on tiny gear, but could be pretty spicy.
3) 5.10 Chewed Through: a rodent boogaloo
Sport / TR
9 Bolts + Equipped Anchor
25m
FA: Mike Rogers 6/23
3) 5.10 Chewed Through: a rodent boogaloo
Sport / TR
9 Bolts + Equipped Anchor
25m
FA: Mike Rogers 6/23
Rodents almost made this climb a memorial route during development. Developer didn't check his rope left up for a week and after bouncing around for half an hour looked up to see 1' of core exposed. Rodents ate the sheath all the way around the core. Yikes.
1st bolt is a bit hight on this one as there is a band of mediocre rock, climb with intention til you get your first pro.
Super enjoyable climb, 3 distinct cruxes which are all very different in character and increasing in difficulty as you go!
4) 5.10- Eat Your Weedies
Sport / TR
11 Bolts + Equipped Anchor
25mm
FA: Mike Rogers 9/27/2025
4) 5.10- Eat Your Weedies
Sport / TR
11 Bolts + Equipped Anchor
25mm
FA: Mike Rogers 9/27/2025
Sustained climbing in the .10- range. This thing is über fun.
5) 5.11- Old and New Dreams
Sport / TR
10 Bolts + Equipped Anchor
27mm
FA: Aidan Maguire & Joel Levinson 12/23 (Aidan's Topo in drop down.)
5) 5.11- Old and New Dreams
Sport / TR
10 Bolts + Equipped Anchor
27mm
FA: Aidan Maguire & Joel Levinson 12/23 (Aidan's Topo in drop down.)
Thin, technical, thought provoking, sustained.
Aidan's first route he has gifted The Eagle and its a winner. Aidan's description and topo below.
Start just left of airlift express.
Climb past 2 bolts (5.8) to gain a shallow left facing corner with a big move at the end. Continue through continuous technical moves for another 25 ft to gain the roof. Climb through the roof on a steep, crisp flake that peters out into a short polished corner. The perplexing final crux moves through the final bolt to the anchor. Sport bolted, 10 quick draws. Less than 30 meters
6) 5.9 Airlift Express
Sport / TR
9 Bolts + Equipped Anchor
25m
FA: Bobby Hutton 3/21
6) 5.9 Airlift Express
Sport / TR
9 Bolts + Equipped Anchor
25m
FA: Bobby Hutton 3/21
Quality route and a great warm up if starting here. Mellow intro followed by some thought provoking moves getting into and through the big flake.
A variation of this is to climb into the second half of Watch Your Step.
This variation is called Air-step 5.9
The point to cross over is on the topo as a blue dotted line.
7) 5.10+ Watch Your Step
Sport / TR
11 Bolts + Equipped Anchor
27m
FA: Mike Rogers 3/21
7) 5.10+ Watch Your Step
Sport / TR
11 Bolts + Equipped Anchor
27m
FA: Mike Rogers 3/21
Sorry to those I sandbagged. Had this marked as a .10-
It's 10c-ish. Image will be updated shortly.
Precarious first bolt is hard to clip if shorter. Taller folks can clip before leaving the starting rock at base of the climb. Twinkle toes are required for this one. Trust those feet for the first 1/3 rd of the climb and avoid getting your body around the corner for the first half to be true to the intended route, but definitely use the things to your left to grab. A bit contrived to stay true the first half. Avoid swinging the corner into the red zone.
8) 5.10+ Hundred Dollar Bill
Sport / TR
12? Bolts + Equipped Anchor
30m
FA: Aidan Maguire & Joel Levinson 1/9/25
8) 5.10+ Hundred Dollar Bill
Sport / TR
12? Bolts + Equipped Anchor
30m
FA: Aidan Maguire & Joel Levinson 1/9/25
Another one in the books thanks to Aidan and Joel.
This one climbs into Watch Your Step about 2/3rds the way up and shares its anchor.
After 1st bolt trend upwards on inobvious holds thinking only of the wager. Crux is around bolts 2 & 3, where general trending up will result in further struggles and an arête. Pull down, move up while avoiding gravity.
Another one in the books thanks to Aidan and Joel.
This one climbs into Watch Your Step about 2/3rds the way up and shares its anchor.
After 1st bolt trend upwards on inobvious holds thinking only of the wager. Crux is around bolts 2 & 3, where general trending up will result in further struggles and an arête. Pull down, move up while avoiding gravity.
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